All are legal for competition in TU. but in japan they can only use the xxxx-tuned motors. no dash motors.

on dual shaft motors yes. on single shaft motors its sprint dash.

aalamak.. gone di.. semua dah kena sapu .. haiz..

some new stuff from sifu yrg

http://yrg.fc2web.com/masin/mini65.html
http://yrg.fc2web.com/masin/mini66.html
http://yrg.fc2web.com/masin/mini67.html
http://yrg.fc2web.com/masin/mini69.html

Hey guys. I thought i would share my method of cleaning and maintaining my bearings. Its quite a simple procedure and can be done in under 45 mins if ur efficient. Its my skate bearings cleaning tutorial i wrote for another site. but the concept and method is same as i do for my tamiya bearings.

Heres what u need.




1) Skate tool ( or any tool that is the right size )
2) Tweezers ( or what ever u like to use that works similarly )
3) Lighter/Zippo Fluid
4) RC Cold Cleaner Spray ( you can get this at most remote control shops. its a common cleaning spray they use. u dun have to get the exact brand. costs about 10 dollars where i am. )
5) Small glass container with a cap ( u can use anything u want. but glass is the best coz it doesn't stain or get damaged easily by chemicals )
6) Any small container or bowl ( anything works as long as it can hold liquid )
7) An old rag
8) Gloves, preferably rubber ( i recommend getting a pack or a box so u dun have to run out and get them again )
9) A clean open workspace
10) the bearings of course.
11) Bearing lube ( any lube thats made for bearings, i use a bearing lube for rc car bearings thats designed so that less dust sticks to it )

It seems like a long list but all the parts on there are reusable except for the gloves. Consider it an investment for clean and smooth bearings.

Step 1 - Removing the wheels

Grab your skate tool or whatever your using and take off the 4 wheels. Be careful not to lose the wheel washers unless uve got spares or are replacing them. Put all the washers and nuts into a small tray or container so u don't lose them.



Step 2 - Removing the bearings

This step is simple. Just put the wheel on the trucks axle about 1/3 way down. Where the end of the axle is just slightly over the first bearing. Now just apply pressure at an angle and the bearing should pop out. Carefull about the bearing spacers. Pop them into the container where u have the washers and the nuts. Just repeat for each bearing.



Step 3 - First Rinse

This is the first rinse to get rid of all the major grease, oil, dirt and whatever thats in the bearings. Put all the bearings into a container or bowl, in this case im using a small cup. Fill the cup with zippo/lighter fluid till it submerges all the bearings. Let it sit for a minute. Then remove all the bearings with ur tweezers. Dispose of the lighter fluid safely. I just pour it down the drain in the bathroom.



Step 4 - Individual Rinse

This is to clean out the bearing even more. Same as step 3, but fill the container just enough to submerge 2 bearings. Now put 1 bearing into the container and use the tweezers to move the bearing around inside the fluid. Good way to do it is to put the tweezer through the center of the bearing and roll the bearing around he inner edge of the container. This way u work the fluid into the deeper parts of the bearing and also dislodges dirt that didn't come out in the first rinse. Repeat for each bearing, about 1minute each would be good. U dont have to change out the fluid with every bearing. One thing to note, put the bearing ball cage side up when in the solution. The dirt comes out more easily. Once done with all 8, lay the bearings on a clean surface to dry. It takes less than 1 min for zippo fluid to dry so dun have to wait too long.



This post has been edited by lolhalol: Jul 27 2010, 02:02 AM

Step 5 - Deep Clean Rinse

Now take a container with a cap and fill it 2 and half bearings high with the cold cleaner spray. Put two bearings in and close the cap. Shake for about 1 minute. Repeat till all the bearings have been cleaned. I normally repeat this step twice just to make sure the bearings are absolutely clean. Change the fluid after every 4 bearings. Dump the used fluid into the container with the washers, nuts and spacers. When done with all the bearings. Set them out to dry on a clean surface. While waiting to dry just give the container with the nuts, washers and spacers a shake. This is to clean what ever grease or dirt thats trapped in the spacers or washers. Wipe them done after with a rag and let them dry.





Should be left with something like this once done.




Step 6 - Re- Lubricating the Bearing

Once dry, give each bearing a quick spin and see if it spins freely. if it doesn't u got a bad bearing. Now set the bearings ball cage side down, and drop 2 drops of bearing lube into the bearing. Give it another couple of spins to work the oil into the bearing. Its also good practice to put a drop of oil on ur finger and rub in onto the other surfaces of the bearing and also the outside surface of the ball cage to prevent rust.



Now put the tweezer through the bearing and spin it a few times., making sure the bearing can spin smoothly. It normally spin very long because there fresh oil in the bearing, just skate it a for a few hours and it would eventually set in. . Now youre all done. Put the bearing back into the wheels , wheel washers on the truck axle and reinstall the nut.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GgbWhXc6_SE&feature=related

a video guide by the company that makes the best skate bearings in the world.

http://www.bonesbearings.com/support/maintenance/

This post has been edited by lolhalol: Jul 27 2010, 02:04 AM

hahah .. ms powerrrrrrrrrrrrrrr

Try to get around 1600 mah. Any more above that u will have troble fitting the battery into ur chassis. Best is 1000 Mah to 1600 mah. Dont really matter what rechargeable u use. as its not racce legal here. So its performance numbers arnt really that important. Its mainly for rempiting purposes. Buy what u can afford. If u can stretch ur budget, the eneloop or eneloop lite ( 1000 mAh ) is probably the best rechargeable thats easily available. Gp if ur on a budget. Though gp isnt bad at all .

[quote=gabz.85,Jul 27 2010, 06:20 PM]
[quote=szngszng,Jul 27 2010, 02:00 AM]
gabz... why can't use hg for speed car?? can you mention why it's a waste if use it at speed car。。。

reason is the multi setting frp has many holes which is more useful when setting up technical car.. might as well use the 2-pc frp side extention.

[/quote]

got holes there dont mean have to use lah. advantage is one solid piece rather than seperate pieces. Much more strength. not saying 2pc frp not good though. just preference lah.

the sifu has spoken.

I agree with u junich. i think for technical race, ms or fm would also be good. imo MS is a very good chasis for all rounder but if really want to push it to the limits then old chasis has the advantage, as david say if can turn the disadvantage to advantage , thats when the real performance come out.

This post has been edited by lolhalol: Jul 28 2010, 10:47 AM

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Added on July 28, 2010, 11:06 amthats why i always stay with ms. hehehe i sometime hand itchy play with vs of fm chasis but thats just for fun.

I heard so many times before, if david bring out fm car, we will all cry. heheheh

This post has been edited by lolhalol: Jul 28 2010, 11:06 AM

Pak David, oldman talk , young man will listn. besides ur not that old also. lol. Good to see discussion like this, instead of the usual crap . Wish oldman talk more

http://mini4wdmy.blogspot.com/search/label/Car%20Setup

The Ms-Chassis is the latest chassis from tamiya. Its a good place to start as its simple.

try ebay. i just got a few packs of 850 from ebay.

haha sorry atm no more coz i sapu all di. but it was about 160 rm for 5 packs

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Added on July 31, 2010, 2:13 amfound one for u.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Tamiya-Mini-4WD-830-Ba...#ht_1387wt_1137

singapore seller. but more exp.

This post has been edited by lolhalol: Jul 31 2010, 02:13 AM

oh sorry i thought u looking for 830. 850 i really duno where to get.

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Added on July 31, 2010, 2:38 ambtw any reason why 850 ? i think the 830 is beter coz the insides is florine coated.

This post has been edited by lolhalol: Jul 31 2010, 02:38 AM

bro , 850 and 830 is teh same size .

the first number represents the outer diameter, the second represents the inner diameter. ex. 9mm would be 950

11mm is 1150 and so on.

This post has been edited by lolhalol: Jul 31 2010, 03:08 AM