well I understand, but I don't think putting pictures considered teasing. many of us here also post some awesome stuff that can't be bought or discontinued. but no need to be so harsh about that. of course, online shopping is a bad way of buying speakers, but if you're very teased with the products, i think you will go to that extent.

Edifier M3300 mod.

It begins with the fault of the wired controller at first. Since getting it outside my is not easy, and I've already paired the satellites with the other better subwoofer, i am now left with M3300 subwoofer without controller nor satellites. On the other hand, I have a decent satellites (from truck stereo i guess) which do not have a great enclosure. I tested it with a/d/s PQ8 amp.

With the help of Cosef pinout, I have tested the M3300 thru the pinout and verified that it's still working. So I am going to:
- Replace satellites with 4" mid and 2" tweeter
- Remove reflex port -> sealed
- Put on/off switch inside the M3300, so it's on all time, and at max volume too.
- Swap RCA output to input, so i just plug any source there.
- Integrate satellite into subwoofer.

So far I have dismantled all the parts, just waiting for sawing assistance. Will post here if the speakers is finished.

This post has been edited by nismo91: Sep 16 2010, 06:55 PM


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finally finished it. to get rid of the leak, I used some blu-tacks as the 'washer' of the speakers, it actually works. Also use blue marker to make the speakers color a bit lively (purple). Removed on/off switch so it's basically on forever.

Sound-wise well it's not disappointing. only complaint would the M3300 amp seems to drive it too bright. Good thing is I successfully replace the RCA out become RCA in, so there is no need to use the serial port anymore. Bad thing is I think I messed up the soldering or cabling when I last paste the blu-tack because shortly after that, when I knocked the system will give some ground loop problem. Next part would be fixing all the solder job and paint the hole black. Currently use blue marker to estimate how it will look after paint.

Now my Edifier M3300 is back to life, become a one-piece system, and it also actually gain alot of weight


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thanks, nope, the satellites are from left and right channel. although not exactly stereo, it still sound better than laptop speaker. haha but the brightness is a bit disturbing.

thanks all. lol, since the speaker are too-bright, i temporarily place it behind my laptop screen (down-firing woofer position). sure the sound is muffled, but for gaming it's funny because the sound appears from inside the screen which reminds me to the EAX in battlefield 2 i will probably try to 'semi' the tweeter and midrange instead of 'parallel' to add impedance (therefore softer sound). not sure it helps or not.

i think it's not tweeter which is too bright, it's the amp instead. cause i pair the M3300 satellites with other 'neutral' system and it's really good. instead, when i pair other satellites to M3300 it become extremely bright. i have to use my M3300 down-firing now, otherwise it will sound too bright.

i was about to ask you the same question... lol i noticed my 'modded' M3300 getting quite warm at the heatsink part... even on idle also.

i saw them (MP300+) in retail shop few days back. one thing: they missed the green colour.

or use your 'gaming' mouse buttons to adjust the volume. very convenient.

so anyone know how to 'get rid' of this filter?

in my z cinema they like limit anything below 30hz so it doesn't move. while for the edifier, klipsch and altec lansing i can still see they're clearly moving. heck, even my laptop subwoofer moves when i supply 30hz tones.

for z cinema i don't know what freq they tune, but for sure at 40hz it's just normal. much more boomy at 70-80hz range.

easiest song to test would be the infamous bass i love you. there will be this low note where the subwoofer will slam obviously. now during that time, my z cinema (and z2300 and z5500 in youtube videos) will not slam as it suppose to be. already confirm with my klipsch ifi, altec ada885, edifier r501 and many other speakers w/o filter.

if only i can find sth inside my z cinema that would disable this filter. btw haven't opened it yet, only a pic from internet.

well of course not until that low, but at least if the z cinema can output until 27 or 30hz before it's totally unhearable. only when placed in sweet spot the ADA885 can hear at 27hz before starting to get softer and softer. iFi is at 30hz. z cinema is 35hz, everything below is not softer, but blocked instead. that's why after getting used listen to these 2 listening to z cinema got obvious missing tone.

yes quite complex, but it also include the "DAC" since the usb port is at the back of the board.

same here, also start with edifier, although used cap-ayam brand for a while before. now using edifier and other 3 respectable brands for PC speakers.

i vote for R501 too.

lol, the price almost twice of course will be much better

i always leave my PC speaker on 24/7. for some model i just 'standby' mode. so i never encounter this.

if i want to replace my power filter caps with better brand, should i use bigger capacity (uF) with same V or same uF same V?

I see. i go to his webpage (jimmy) and read the comments section, jimmy himself mentioned basically just replace with the same values of F and V. i will look into this later, probably next mth. i'll keep in mind for panasonic for the brand to look for. thanks.

wah great idea, gonna try with my ada885 too!

-edit: finally did it, very messy job but i kinda like how it look after. have not notice much difference with the clarity, will have to listen more.

thanks to Cosef for the inspiration.



This post has been edited by nismo91: Nov 18 2010, 04:06 AM


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comparing mine and yours, is it the resistors?


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