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 The suiting thread v2

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"6"
post Sep 24 2011, 10:43 PM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Sep 24 2011, 10:23 PM)
Hi guy, i plan to commission a SB from ah like.was wondering whether 350 grams for fabric is a bit too heavy for Malaysian weather.            http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOHAIR-WOOL-WORS...8e#ht_787wt_689
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*sound of lurker emerging from the depths* Hi guys, pleasure to "meet" you all. I must say its great to see a Malaysian community of sartorially inclined men, some with extensive experience with bespoke garments.

Back to your question - I'm sure some of the sifus here will chime in, but from personal experience, looking prima facie from the weight of the cloth 11.5oz's is not so heavy that it would disqualify it from consideration for wear in tropical weather.

However, cloth weight is just one aspect. What is the fabric weave like? If the fabric is open weaved it will wear cooler. Also what jacket lining are you going for? If you get the jacket unlined/quarter lined, it will help make it wear cooler than a fully lined jacket. Take these factors into consideration as well in addition to the weight of the cloth.

That being said, the cloth is in a great colour and it looks like it will make a great looking suit - 40% mohair will give it plenty of luster (aka 'disco shine') which in my opinion will give the garment some character.

Post back the results if you decide to commission a jacket with it.


"6"
post Sep 25 2011, 11:06 AM

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QUOTE(Terrorsquad @ Sep 25 2011, 12:41 PM)
Thanks guys. I have contacted Howard and he has recommended the following fabric:

after lengthy negotiations, i was offered Scabal's 100's for 3.5 metres for RM800 from the original price of RM550 a meter.
You negotiated it up to RM800? Remind me not to go shopping with you smile.gif

All the best in your collaboration with ALT.
"6"
post Sep 30 2011, 05:53 PM

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QUOTE(kotmj @ Sep 30 2011, 02:05 PM)
If you show him something from GQ and he actually manages to replicate that idiocy, you will regret he was successful because the suit will not be wearable.
Preach it. rclxms.gif

This post has been edited by "6": Sep 30 2011, 05:54 PM
"6"
post Oct 7 2011, 06:17 PM

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QUOTE(rellik_yzarc @ Oct 7 2011, 01:31 AM)
Hi, this is my first fitting session at ALT for a fully canvassed 2 button navy blazer.
AL said he was going to rotate the sleeves but besides that I couldn't really catch anything else.
I forgot to ask him to take the a side profile picture.
Comments on the ongoing work are appreciated.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «



Good luck with your first commission, I long for the day I myself can afford BESPOKE. Fabric colour looks fantastic. Fit notes (from judging purely by the pictures):

1) Suit jacket length looks abit short
2) Quarters look square to me, not a fan of the look (this might change in the final product - not sure)
3) Shoulders seem to be extending beyond your natural shoulder, but again, I'm judging from a photo.
4) Too much of waist suppression on the back

Suits aren't meant to look like they are painted on your body. Clean lines yes, but not to the point of looking like a leotard. Balance is what you want to look for in a suit - your shoulder to waist drop is pretty severe, I would say less suppression along the waist would produce a more masculine appearance.

Extreme example:

1) Pre-pubescent boy
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


2) Man
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Added on October 7, 2011, 6:20 pm
QUOTE(Mihawk7 @ Oct 7 2011, 02:14 AM)
Sorry im noob, what is RTW? im currently looking at 2 blazers to find. here is the picture of them.

which one better ya? Yes, i know both are not branded. These are the only one within my budget
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Leave the 3 quarter sleeve jackets to the ladies.

This post has been edited by "6": Oct 7 2011, 06:20 PM
"6"
post Oct 10 2011, 07:07 PM

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QUOTE(rellik_yzarc @ Oct 10 2011, 12:37 AM)
This is my KFW FC suit that I showed AL before commissioning him to make me a navy Blazer (1st fitting pics in my previous post).
According to AL, he'd take the waist in by 1/2".
I am afraid if I tell AL to lessen the waist compression at the back, the waist compression would not be visible from the front.
How should I proceed?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
Jacket looks good. Something about the lapels I don't quite like in terms of shape - looks slightly droopy (can't articulate better), and the sleeves need rotation maybe? But overall proportions are great. Also, the waist suppression from the back looks awesome.


To the bespoke veterans on this forum - I want to commission my first bespoke piece next time I'm back in the tanah air. Thinking of a navy Irish or Italian linen jacket - unlined, with soft treatment of the shoulders - I prefer my jacket shoulders to be cut narrower and my natural shoulders to protrude slightly from the sleeves - producing a relaxed casual look. Any good recommendations of tailors who are good at this sort of construction? No doubt I'll have to pay some 'tuition' fee, regardless of tailor, but good leads would be appreciated.

So far it seems like ALT and this KFW are producing some good work, but their shoulder construction still seems slightly "stiff" - which is fine as most commissions posted here a for business. Any other tailors worth a try?

Paying a visit to the boys at the Armoury is an option for good MTM, but I want to support our local tradesmen and take pride in wearing something handmade in Malaysia. Any feedback is appreciated.

Also side note after reading kotmj's sticky on how to get a suit made in Malaysia - you boys are crazy dedicated - sourcing cloth, buttons and even horsehair canvass yourselves. Hopefully I'll have some luck in sourcing these "raw materials" myself.

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