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 The suiting thread v2

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kotmj
post May 29 2010, 06:38 PM

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They have everything your can put on your body. Hats, caps, suits, chinos, shirts, jeans, etc.
kotmj
post May 29 2010, 10:15 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ May 29 2010, 08:02 PM)
Why don't you tell me earlier? I have a nice pair of faded blue jeans from Giordano. I would have donated them to you otherwise.
*
Please, do send them to me after you've worn them for a week. I shan't ever wash them.


Added on May 29, 2010, 10:18 pm
QUOTE(malutapimau @ May 29 2010, 09:25 PM)
jeans looks kinda baggy,,, did you sized up?

i think a superfastic linen jacket should be matched w/ a faded selvage denim---not an rm8 jeans
*
I neither size up nor down. I only do Size Perfect.

There was a 505 that was very skin hugging, but really, I'm not a rempit and I like to be able to sit comfortably.

The jeans is very high quality. There is no such thing as light blue raw denim.


Added on May 29, 2010, 10:46 pmWow, almost 1000 people have read my suit article.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 29 2010, 10:46 PM
kotmj
post May 29 2010, 10:59 PM

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Have you fan cheongs seen this thread?

http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=182696
kotmj
post May 30 2010, 12:05 PM

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QUOTE(bloke1 @ May 30 2010, 12:21 AM)
My navy jacket will fit exactly like that!
*
Dream on...
kotmj
post May 30 2010, 05:18 PM

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It takes 2-3 working days between the fittings, and 2 weeks from the last fitting to completion of the suit. So you're looking at 3 weeks from first to last visit.

The last I heard, Bespoked charges RM500 extra for full canvassing.

I would also consider getting odd trousers and dress shirts made. Also, consider a trip to P.Lal for English welted shoes at incredible prices.

Is this your first foray into bespoke or have you had cheap and dirty Thai bespoke before this?


This post has been edited by kotmj: May 30 2010, 05:31 PM
kotmj
post May 30 2010, 10:49 PM

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QUOTE(3ff3z8e @ May 30 2010, 06:50 PM)
Hi kotmj,

Thanks for the reply. I'm actually looking at the PLal webbie just now... cool, now I know where to get my shoes as well...

In regards to fittings so if it's about 2-3 days per fitting, I suppose it's best to keep my schedule flexible for the 1st week and a half while I'm there for the fittings?

Well, I had my last suit done by the crew at Sparkmanshop a few years back, last I heard from my dad they've changed their name or something. But all I can say is, back then being my ignorant self, all I just needed was a suit for work, and hence got myself served a fused "sackcloth". Now I've been enlightened to the process of a decent bespoke tailor, I am aware that I am in need of a wardrobe/ image refresher. I'll post up a pic one of these days to show you guys the "sack" one day.

I'm still a novice which such affairs though so, I'm also planning to purchase a book or two from amazon.com, namely "Dressing the Man". I was wondering if anyone might have any other recommendations in terms of books to further my sartorial studies?

Thanks & regards,
*
Hang around the Klang Valley the first week.

BTW, AL's stuff is fused. I don't think you'll find it that bad. The trick is to use very good cloth. Always use good cloth. Nothing makes a bigger difference.


Added on May 30, 2010, 11:02 pmAlso, if you have a spare tire around your midsection, no tailor can give you the silhouette of a person with about 10% body fat (me). With a high BMI, it's about damage minimization, not about enhancing a good physique.

If you have broad shoulders, it is still possible to create the illusion of a trimmer waist. But that's not possible with a negative drop (when your waist is wider than your shoulders).

I want you to go in with the right expectations.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 30 2010, 11:07 PM
kotmj
post May 31 2010, 07:38 PM

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AL does a very nice suit nowadays. Just go in, say you're my best friend, and want natural shoulders, high armholes, perfectly clean back, open quarters, slightly longer jacket, a collar that grips the neck no matter what, lapel openings that do not gap open, shirtsleeve cuffs, somewhat wider lapels than he is comfortable making, side adjuster trousers with 2" cuffs which are painfully short for him with a low fork and extra drape in the buttcrack for comfortable sitting 11 hours a day, etc. Whew.
kotmj
post Jun 1 2010, 08:51 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Jun 1 2010, 12:10 PM)
First, let me say I probably learnt more about suits reading the last 10 page of this thread and "So you want to get a suit made" then my last 30+ years of existence smile.gif

I read ALT should be able to churn out a suit in 3 weeks, that's about the date line I have for my wedding (yeah I know I was procrastinating..). I'm actually aiming for a Mao/Mandarin Suit of maybe dark navy colour. Material.. no idea.. probably go for super wool as suggested in this thread.

Anyway, I would like to know if I'm making some sort of fashion boo boo with this choice, and is there anything I should pay special attention to for this type of suit or just leave myself in Ah Loke's capable hands?

ps : kotmj, does your "special cut" at ALT's work for this kinda suit as well?
*
I've never seen a Mao or Nehru suit I like. Hope you will not find me presumptuous if I suggest you stick with either a SB or DB. If you want to avoid that business look, choose a fancy fabric or have a contrasting waistcoat. Or have a tuxedo made.

I don't know about AL's "capable hands". You have to ask for my cut or else you will get the sack cut. Mine is not just a cut, it is a different level of make. Obsessive attention to fit, more materials, etc. Ask for my cut and you will get it.

Actually, I suggest kid mohair, not super wool. Tailors are the ones suggesting super wool, preferably from Zegna or H&S. It pays the rent.
kotmj
post Jun 1 2010, 11:04 PM

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Tan Sri Dato' Zegna is currently having a 3 piece made of 100% wool. It's a, heh, Zegna tropical worsted which is incredibly porous and light yet firm and strong. A navy shadow check. Lined with the gayest pink ermazine.

I would wear that.

I would not wear any of those cashmere stuff. They are supposed to have popular appeal due to how soft the handle is.
kotmj
post Jun 3 2010, 01:33 PM

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what sort of colours/ weaves are you looking for?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 3 2010, 01:34 PM
kotmj
post Jun 3 2010, 09:32 PM

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i have a secret project going on which i shall never ever divulge. it is most cunning and will result in a superlative jacket. i will not be using al for this.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 3 2010, 09:42 PM
kotmj
post Jun 3 2010, 09:48 PM

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the project is most secret. i cannot even post pics of the end result.
kotmj
post Jun 4 2010, 01:34 PM

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QUOTE(3ff3z8e @ Jun 3 2010, 11:08 PM)
hi kotmj & silencer,

Well, basically I'm building my wardrobe from almost scratch, besides my old sparkmanshop navy narrow pinstripe sacksuit being assigned to the "only use in serious emergencies status"...lol

I guess I'll be looking at starting with 2 summer and 2 winter suits, or if I can stretch my budget (by cutting out all my eating out expenses for a few months) a special "dinner date" suit.

For the summer suits I'm sticking close to my favorite colours like light grays, charcoals, tans and browns. For the winter wear, i have navy, charcoal and dark brown in mind. British Fabrics seem to have a few decent kid mohair/ wool blends on offer for my summer suit material. For winter suits, I'll probably come up to Binwanis when I drop by to see if any decent Super 100 - 120s fabrics around. Not sure how Binwani's prces compare to british fabrics. Overall for my "General Purpose/ workhorse suits" as long as the quality is decent, that's good with me. Not too fussed as they're mostly for weekday and work wear.

The dinner dinner date suit though I guess, I intend to get something more special, perhaps a lighter (in weight/ density terms) perhaps like Super 130 - 140 in Navy or charcoal.
Cheers peeps,
*
dinner dates are expensive and don't work


Added on June 4, 2010, 7:52 pmi would suggest this wardrobe

dark semi-milled textured charcoal medium weight 3 piece sb
a medium gray twill medium weight 3 piece sb
a kid mohair navy tropical weight 2 piece db with swappable buttons
a colourful and loud sports jacket
light gray flannel trousers

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 4 2010, 07:55 PM
kotmj
post Jun 5 2010, 03:42 PM

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was just about to enter alt when i saw this couple from 2 weeks back sitting at the counter, their backs to me. i retraced my steps and am now in coffee bean having a coffee to avoid having to meet them.

the boy is STILL wearing a stupid t-shirt for fittings.
kotmj
post Jun 5 2010, 04:01 PM

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Please, Tan Sri, have some modesty! You already have more bespoke suits than most people will have suits in their lives.

But to answer your question, you need some stripes. Maybe a mid grey with white chalkstripes.

Attached Image

Also, consider a Prince of Wales check.

Attached Image

And a gunclub sportsjacket.

Attached Image

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 5 2010, 04:06 PM
kotmj
post Jun 5 2010, 09:28 PM

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1.7m will be sufficient for just a jacket. linen or tropical is entirely up to you, but wool is more formal.
kotmj
post Jun 6 2010, 06:28 PM

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Dressed for a night out...

user posted image

I'm late! Bye.
kotmj
post Jun 6 2010, 11:34 PM

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Actually, it was celebrating a pretty chick's birthday at a Korean restaurant followed by a round of pubbing.
kotmj
post Jun 7 2010, 09:57 AM

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QUOTE(Cheenoo @ Jun 6 2010, 11:53 PM)
Anyone else wore a blazer?
*
Of course not.


Added on June 7, 2010, 10:00 am
QUOTE(silencer @ Jun 7 2010, 03:15 AM)
wow..raw meat and half-cooked..... drool.gif
*
sounds hamsap grumble.gif

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 7 2010, 10:25 AM
kotmj
post Jun 8 2010, 12:25 PM

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QUOTE(MeToo @ Jun 8 2010, 10:57 AM)
Wah! kotmj seems to be ALT stalker.... remind me not to turn my back to the door when I go for my fitting this saturday.

ps : You guys noticed the lack of parking in that area?!
*
I park at Cap Square. RM2 flat rate on weekends.


Added on June 8, 2010, 12:26 pmWhat time will you be there this Saturday? So I can avoid you, you understand.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 8 2010, 12:26 PM

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