tell everyone you want to be buried in that suit

put on hangar and leave till tomorrow. some suits are meant to be wrinkled, like linen suits. maybe ramie too.

7X more

Everyone's trying to DTO me. Everybody wants to be my clone! I'm outta here!

I'm wrestling with the thought of having my DB lapels padded in beige-coloured silk. That way, one can see all the little pricks on the underside. Far, faaaaaar cooler than any stupid machine embroidery of your name to signal a bespoke number.

yeah, lord mountbatten would not have asked for it.

not really. just want my suits to be like theirs.

Look at this DB. No lapel belly. Very high gorge. Minimal waist suppression. (Significant shoulder drop.)

We shall find out tomorrow if a DB is for me.

Maybe a crotch pic?

1. Quarter inch more waisting each side
2. Sleeves to be rotated backwards
2. Shoulder slope correction on right side
3. 1/2" less back balance on navy trousers, 3/4" shorter
4. 3/4" shorter flannel trousers

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Added on August 21, 2010, 1:43 pmDo I still look like a navy-coloured refrigerator?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 21 2010, 01:43 PM

I bought the flannel on eBay, it is thick like a carpet and has no selvedge. I know it is a woolen flannel, not a worsted flannel.

It has already been altered once to shorten the back balance, but the back still seems very messy. I have basically given up trying to get such things right on trousers that sit on the hips. It's impossible. The waistband keeps shifting up and down between meals.

I don't know what to do about the gorge! The only way to expose more shirt at the throat is to lower all six buttons. Should I do that? 1/2"? Maybe short guys just have to live with high gorges.

This is the last fitting, BTW. The navy buttonhole twist I bought is too light a shade, I am reordering a darker shade. I need this suit by the first week of next month, otherwise I'm screwed.

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Added on August 21, 2010, 2:44 pmI chose a burgundy rayon lining.

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Added on August 21, 2010, 2:51 pmBTW I love those fishtail trews. It is ridiculous to have trousers tightly bound and suspended from the hips. I wish I could wear braces everyday, but it would make me look like a grandpa.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 21 2010, 02:51 PM

I think the jacket will acquire a more prominent chest once made up. The final shaping with a heavy iron has not taken place yet. I suspect the jacket will be shapelier overall.

Apparently, the height of the fishtail entirely depends on your posture. What matters is that the back and front balance ("The Line") are right. The height of the fishtail is a way to regulate that. That's what he told me. I stand quite upright. No stoop. So shorter fishtail.

Gshen, what do you mean by the gorge being folded in half when being made up? I have difficulty imagining what it means.

Yeah, the shoulders were taken in a tad. There was unanimous consensus both here and on SF that the shoulders were overextended.

I'm thinking of adding 0.25" to the front length of the coat and moving all six buttons down 0.5".

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Added on August 22, 2010, 1:04 amI only ever go to ALT on not-to-be disclosed hours nowadays. Saturday afternoon is like a Lowyat forum meet over there, all these young people wanting suits. Phew.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 22 2010, 01:04 AM

Thanks for the explanation, I understand completely. By gorge I had thought you meant the lapel crease opening, and how little shirt is showing!

I get the looks too. If they found out I'm kotmj they might not let me escape the shop so easily.

Heh, what are those mai chee numbers doing on the pocket?

That's the thick one for the right dropped shoulder. The left shoulder pad is even thinner.

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Added on August 22, 2010, 1:57 pmAlso, most of the thickness is at the back of the shoulder. The front of the shoulder is almost unpadded.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 22 2010, 01:57 PM

http://i789.photobucket.com/albums/yy178/k...cture001a-1.jpg

I just understood now, only one of the shoulders were taken in. Which do you prefer?

Thanks for the explanation. I have finally understood. I prefer the first too by a large margin.

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Added on August 22, 2010, 11:10 pmDo not worry, I have not abandoned thee! My hop over to the Dark Side is only temporary, I shall commence with the usual programming for my tropical suits.

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Added on August 23, 2010, 10:48 amThe left shoulder pad


This post has been edited by kotmj: Aug 23 2010, 10:48 AM

The front is fine -- it is level with the back. A 68-year old kneeled on the floor to ascertain that. I looked in the mirror from the side to ascertain that. Really!

I just called AL to move all buttons down 1/2", revert shoulders back to original width, have a lapel hole on each lapel, and to make sure he doesn't forget about the 1/4" nip in the waist.

I'll also go visit him this evening after work (unannounced) (I don't want him to fume the whole day in anticipation of this unreasonable customer).