Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Bump Topic Topic Closed RSS Feed
128 Pages « < 8 9 10 11 12 > » Bottom

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

 The suiting thread v2

views
     
kotmj
post May 30 2010, 10:49 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


QUOTE(3ff3z8e @ May 30 2010, 06:50 PM)
Hi kotmj,

Thanks for the reply. I'm actually looking at the PLal webbie just now... cool, now I know where to get my shoes as well...

In regards to fittings so if it's about 2-3 days per fitting, I suppose it's best to keep my schedule flexible for the 1st week and a half while I'm there for the fittings?

Well, I had my last suit done by the crew at Sparkmanshop a few years back, last I heard from my dad they've changed their name or something. But all I can say is, back then being my ignorant self, all I just needed was a suit for work, and hence got myself served a fused "sackcloth". Now I've been enlightened to the process of a decent bespoke tailor, I am aware that I am in need of a wardrobe/ image refresher. I'll post up a pic one of these days to show you guys the "sack" one day.

I'm still a novice which such affairs though so, I'm also planning to purchase a book or two from amazon.com, namely "Dressing the Man". I was wondering if anyone might have any other recommendations in terms of books to further my sartorial studies?

Thanks & regards,
*
Hang around the Klang Valley the first week.

BTW, AL's stuff is fused. I don't think you'll find it that bad. The trick is to use very good cloth. Always use good cloth. Nothing makes a bigger difference.


Added on May 30, 2010, 11:02 pmAlso, if you have a spare tire around your midsection, no tailor can give you the silhouette of a person with about 10% body fat (me). With a high BMI, it's about damage minimization, not about enhancing a good physique.

If you have broad shoulders, it is still possible to create the illusion of a trimmer waist. But that's not possible with a negative drop (when your waist is wider than your shoulders).

I want you to go in with the right expectations.

This post has been edited by kotmj: May 30 2010, 11:07 PM
jasonchchteik
post May 31 2010, 05:02 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
83 posts

Joined: Aug 2009
From: Penang


i have a navy blazer and im not sure what colour should my pants be for a good match. was hoping to get opinions from the gentlemen in this thread.
Cheenoo
post May 31 2010, 06:53 PM

Alpha as fuck
*****
Senior Member
845 posts

Joined: May 2010


white, beige, grey, anything but black (and colours darker than ur blazer).
3ff3z8e
post May 31 2010, 07:29 PM

New Member
*
Junior Member
44 posts

Joined: May 2010


QUOTE(kotmj @ May 31 2010, 12:49 AM)
Hang around the Klang Valley the first week.

BTW, AL's stuff is fused. I don't think you'll find it that bad. The trick is to use very good cloth. Always use good cloth. Nothing makes a bigger difference.


Added on May 30, 2010, 11:02 pmAlso, if you have a spare tire around your midsection, no tailor can give you the silhouette of a person with about 10% body fat (me). With a high BMI, it's about damage minimization, not about enhancing a good physique.

If you have broad shoulders, it is still possible to create the illusion of a trimmer waist. But that's not possible with a negative drop (when your waist is wider than your shoulders).

I want you to go in with the right expectations.
*
Thanks Kotmj, I don't really have a spare tyre to speak off, but I can really do better in terms of my weight. I've started to exercise more often now hoping I could lose a little more to get my BMI to about 25 or lower (currently around 27). At the current stage my silhoutte looks like a rectangular block at the moment, so hopefully I can work on the arms and the waist a little over the next few months (fingers crossed). but you've raised a good point on expectations.

Interesting point as well on AL fusing his suits. I guess that's okay as the ones I need for work, I'm not too fussed with the construction. Though I was just wondering how you managed to convince AL on partial canvassing? Will it be hard to convince him as a new customer?(Also when asking him to cut differrently from his house cut)"?

Cheers,
kotmj
post May 31 2010, 07:38 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


AL does a very nice suit nowadays. Just go in, say you're my best friend, and want natural shoulders, high armholes, perfectly clean back, open quarters, slightly longer jacket, a collar that grips the neck no matter what, lapel openings that do not gap open, shirtsleeve cuffs, somewhat wider lapels than he is comfortable making, side adjuster trousers with 2" cuffs which are painfully short for him with a low fork and extra drape in the buttcrack for comfortable sitting 11 hours a day, etc. Whew.
MeToo
post Jun 1 2010, 12:10 PM

Look at all my stars!!
*******
Senior Member
9,333 posts

Joined: May 2009
First, let me say I probably learnt more about suits reading the last 10 page of this thread and "So you want to get a suit made" then my last 30+ years of existence smile.gif

I read ALT should be able to churn out a suit in 3 weeks, that's about the date line I have for my wedding (yeah I know I was procrastinating..). I'm actually aiming for a Mao/Mandarin Suit of maybe dark navy colour. Material.. no idea.. probably go for super wool as suggested in this thread.

Anyway, I would like to know if I'm making some sort of fashion boo boo with this choice, and is there anything I should pay special attention to for this type of suit or just leave myself in Ah Loke's capable hands?

ps : kotmj, does your "special cut" at ALT's work for this kinda suit as well?

This post has been edited by MeToo: Jun 1 2010, 12:16 PM
jasonchchteik
post Jun 1 2010, 12:51 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
83 posts

Joined: Aug 2009
From: Penang


QUOTE(Cheenoo @ May 31 2010, 06:53 PM)
white, beige, grey, anything but black (and colours darker than ur blazer).
*
thnx Cheenoo biggrin.gif
TSjind86
post Jun 1 2010, 06:47 PM

Regular
Group Icon
VIP
1,507 posts

Joined: Feb 2008
From: Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia


QUOTE(jasonchchteik @ May 31 2010, 05:02 PM)
i have a navy blazer and im not sure what colour should my pants be for a good match. was hoping to get opinions from the gentlemen in this thread.
*
hmm, any color which is clearly not navy (e.g. dark blue, black).. otherwise it will look like your trying to wear a suit.. i think the best combination would be with white or khaki chinos.. but why dont u post a pix of ur blazer..
kotmj
post Jun 1 2010, 08:51 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


QUOTE(MeToo @ Jun 1 2010, 12:10 PM)
First, let me say I probably learnt more about suits reading the last 10 page of this thread and "So you want to get a suit made" then my last 30+ years of existence smile.gif

I read ALT should be able to churn out a suit in 3 weeks, that's about the date line I have for my wedding (yeah I know I was procrastinating..). I'm actually aiming for a Mao/Mandarin Suit of maybe dark navy colour. Material.. no idea.. probably go for super wool as suggested in this thread.

Anyway, I would like to know if I'm making some sort of fashion boo boo with this choice, and is there anything I should pay special attention to for this type of suit or just leave myself in Ah Loke's capable hands?

ps : kotmj, does your "special cut" at ALT's work for this kinda suit as well?
*
I've never seen a Mao or Nehru suit I like. Hope you will not find me presumptuous if I suggest you stick with either a SB or DB. If you want to avoid that business look, choose a fancy fabric or have a contrasting waistcoat. Or have a tuxedo made.

I don't know about AL's "capable hands". You have to ask for my cut or else you will get the sack cut. Mine is not just a cut, it is a different level of make. Obsessive attention to fit, more materials, etc. Ask for my cut and you will get it.

Actually, I suggest kid mohair, not super wool. Tailors are the ones suggesting super wool, preferably from Zegna or H&S. It pays the rent.
3ff3z8e
post Jun 1 2010, 09:40 PM

New Member
*
Junior Member
44 posts

Joined: May 2010


QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 1 2010, 10:51 PM)

Actually, I suggest kid mohair, not super wool. Tailors are the ones suggesting super wool, preferably from Zegna or H&S. It pays the rent.
*
Lol, I'll literally cook myself in my own fat if I wore a wool suit in the malaysian heat. It's gotta be a kid mohair wool mix or linen for me for summer suits. And oh, BTW, anyone has any idea about these 90+% wool and 10 to 1 % cashmere mix fabrics? I'm getting a feeling they may be for cooler climates since I've always associated cashmere with winter scarves and sweaters.....

This post has been edited by 3ff3z8e: Jun 1 2010, 09:43 PM
kotmj
post Jun 1 2010, 11:04 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


Tan Sri Dato' Zegna is currently having a 3 piece made of 100% wool. It's a, heh, Zegna tropical worsted which is incredibly porous and light yet firm and strong. A navy shadow check. Lined with the gayest pink ermazine.

I would wear that.

I would not wear any of those cashmere stuff. They are supposed to have popular appeal due to how soft the handle is.
silencer
post Jun 2 2010, 11:57 PM

AnyThiN GoEs
******
Senior Member
1,846 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: City^of^Anggerik



back at last.....with Zegna fabric for 5 dress shirts and 1 pant....with several pocket square too... Too bad...th enavy suit is still not ready yet but alt told me that he will try to make it ready by this Saturday....AND my fabulous black Armani fabric for the next suit is already in alt's hand...with pink ermazine and black horn button...it will be a single button suit again....but i do wonder why alt keep asking me the same questions over n over-"Is this for official function?"....i guess maybe bec its black in color but with the V pattern (not heeringbone)..its the best fabric that I have ever bought so far....


Added on June 3, 2010, 12:02 am
QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 1 2010, 11:04 PM)
Tan Sri Dato' Zegna is currently having a 3 piece made of 100% wool. It's a, heh,  Zegna tropical worsted which is incredibly porous and light yet firm and strong. A navy shadow check. Lined with the gayest pink ermazine.

I would wear that.

I would not wear any of those cashmere stuff. They are supposed to have popular appeal due to how soft the handle is.
*
oppps...the kid mohair and tropical wool fabric r sold like "goreng pisang panas" in US...as a preparation for summer season.....

This post has been edited by silencer: Jun 3 2010, 12:05 AM
joywilliams
post Jun 3 2010, 12:18 AM

New Member
*
Newbie
1 posts

Joined: Jun 2010


Hey guys, not sure if this is the right thread but may I ask where can I rent a prom suit and how much does it cost approximately? Thanks in advance!
3ff3z8e
post Jun 3 2010, 06:19 AM

New Member
*
Junior Member
44 posts

Joined: May 2010


[quote=silencer,Jun 3 2010, 01:57 AM]
back at last.....with Zegna fabric for 5 dress shirts and 1 pant....with several pocket square too... Too bad...th enavy suit is still not ready yet but alt told me that he will try to make it ready by this Saturday....AND my fabulous black Armani fabric for the next suit is already in alt's hand...with pink ermazine and black horn button...it will be a single button suit again....but i do wonder why alt keep asking me the same questions over n over-"Is this for official function?"....i guess maybe bec its black in color but with the V pattern (not heeringbone)..its the best fabric that I have ever bought so far....


Added on June 3, 2010, 12:02 am
oppps...the kid mohair and tropical wool fabric r sold like "goreng pisang panas" in US...as a preparation for summer season.....
*

[/quote


Wow....it's pretty darned hard to find a fabric distributor here in sydney. Most people here either buy off the rack or have the cash for a bespoke suit. But even off the rack, the markups are horrendous. One of my only option at the moment is british fabrics on ebay for my inaugaral pilgrimage to Ah Loke. Hoping their stuff is decent.

Silencer, if you don't mind me asking, while I'm more familiar with kid mohair for summer, the tropical wool, is it within the 7-8oz per metre region?
kotmj
post Jun 3 2010, 01:33 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


what sort of colours/ weaves are you looking for?

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 3 2010, 01:34 PM
silencer
post Jun 3 2010, 04:56 PM

AnyThiN GoEs
******
Senior Member
1,846 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: City^of^Anggerik



QUOTE(3ff3z8e @ Jun 3 2010, 06:19 AM)
Wow....it's pretty darned hard to find a fabric distributor here in sydney. Most people here either buy off the rack or have the cash for a bespoke suit. But even off the rack, the markups are horrendous. One of my only option at the moment is british fabrics on ebay for my inaugaral pilgrimage to Ah Loke. Hoping their stuff is decent.

Silencer, if you don't mind me asking, while I'm more familiar with kid mohair for summer, the tropical wool, is it within the 7-8oz per metre region?
*
That question should be answered by bespoked gurus, kotmj....as I always make a generalization of fabric into light, medium or heavy....as for tropical wool..it falls under the first category....
fish@5311
post Jun 3 2010, 07:13 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
202 posts

Joined: May 2008
From: Klang


Hi I would like to know the approximate price range for the suiting fabrics....eg super 100/120, kid mohair....and where are the recommended places to buy them

Thanks
kotmj
post Jun 3 2010, 09:32 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


i have a secret project going on which i shall never ever divulge. it is most cunning and will result in a superlative jacket. i will not be using al for this.

This post has been edited by kotmj: Jun 3 2010, 09:42 PM
silencer
post Jun 3 2010, 09:41 PM

AnyThiN GoEs
******
Senior Member
1,846 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: City^of^Anggerik



QUOTE(kotmj @ Jun 3 2010, 09:32 PM)
i have a secret project going on which i shall never ever divulge. it is most cunning and will result in a superlative jacket.
*
shocking.gif thumbup.gif


Added on June 3, 2010, 9:43 pm
QUOTE(fish@5311 @ Jun 3 2010, 07:13 PM)
Hi I would like to know the approximate price range for the suiting fabrics....eg super 100/120, kid mohair....and where are the recommended places to buy them

Thanks
*
i guess no one bother to read the pinned Thread... http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1351948

This post has been edited by silencer: Jun 3 2010, 09:44 PM
kotmj
post Jun 3 2010, 09:48 PM

The Coatmaker's Apprentice
*******
Senior Member
3,802 posts

Joined: Apr 2009
From: City of Anggerik


the project is most secret. i cannot even post pics of the end result.

128 Pages « < 8 9 10 11 12 > » Top
Topic ClosedOptions
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0209sec    0.38    6 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 3rd December 2025 - 02:27 AM