He's a closet cross dresser.
The suiting thread v2
The suiting thread v2
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Jul 5 2010, 10:16 AM
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#121
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Senior Member
3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
He's a closet cross dresser.
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Jul 5 2010, 12:40 PM
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#122
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
QUOTE(FusioneX @ Jul 5 2010, 11:01 AM) You should never sacrifice proper fit - knowing that you need to wear a suit outdoors for your job, you should have gotten yourself a half-lined light cotton or linen suit instead. No, not cotton, but certainly kid mohair or fresco or some of the new innovative tropical weaves.Added on July 5, 2010, 12:41 pm QUOTE(kneok @ Jul 5 2010, 12:31 PM) I remember a forumer here did his double breasted suit at bespoked. Would love to see how that turned out. I am looking to make a double breasted suit for work No, that guy mistook a 2-button suit for a double breasted.This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 5 2010, 12:41 PM |
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Jul 5 2010, 04:14 PM
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#123
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
The whole thing, obviously. You get some polyester stuff.
(Then they complain it's suicide to wear it.) Tux and Blazer is a chain, and I have written unflattering things about them before. |
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Jul 5 2010, 04:45 PM
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#124
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
QUOTE(kneok @ Jul 5 2010, 04:18 PM) Well, I like going into tailoring shops and asking questions no tailor has ever had to answer from customers.Went into the T&B at Alpha Angle. They were selling these RM6k Zegna cloth suits. I asked the "tailor" there a few very basic questions about the internal construction of his suits. He knew nothing about them. All he could answer was that they are all "suiting materials". The guy knows less about tailoring than me. All he does is take measurements, fill out a form, then fax that form to Wardrobe. |
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Jul 6 2010, 10:32 PM
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#125
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
I might be interested in some buttons and horsehair for my fully canvassed DB navy mohair fresco 3-piece.
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Jul 10 2010, 01:44 AM
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#126
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
Here
http://www.voguefabricsstore.com/store/cat...-p-1-c-994.html Added on July 10, 2010, 8:46 pmReview: Richard's Tailor Ampang Park From a basted jacket: Collar interlinng is sew-in polyester, not linen. Buttonholes machine-made, badly. Lapels non-padded. Interior finishing underwhelming, unlike Granoff or Bespoked. The thickest pre-fab shoulder pads I've seen in my life, about 1" thick at the ends. House silhouette: NFL player shoulders, slightly open quarters, thin droopy lapels, mild waisting (more than AL). Very clean back and sleeves, but no drape at back of armsyce which means arm movement forwards is impossible. Armholes medium height (neither high nor low).g This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 10 2010, 08:46 PM |
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Jul 10 2010, 08:46 PM
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#127
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
Review: Richard's Tailor Ampang Park
From a basted jacket: Collar interlining is sew-in polyester, not linen. Buttonholes machine-made, badly. Lapels non-padded. Interior finishing underwhelming, unlike Granoff or Bespoked. The thickest pre-fab shoulder pads I've seen in my life, about 1" thick at the ends. House silhouette: NFL player shoulders, slightly open quarters, thin droopy lapels, mild waisting (more than AL). Very clean back and sleeves, but no drape at back of armsyce which means arm movement forwards is impossible. Armholes medium height (neither high nor low). The thing about buttonholes is that, if you have any aspiration towards "fine tailoring", they need to be hand-sewn. Machine sewn on a specialized suit-button making machine is bad enough, but machine sewn on a normal sewing machine is the most terrible crime of all. It is essentially a shirt buttonhole, only larger. He kept reminding me that what I was seeing is a jacket for fitting. The finished jacket, he said, will look different and will not have all the guts hanging around. He said it 4 times. I kept saying "Of course, of course." On the fifth time he said it, I said "BUT OF COURSE, MAN. I HAVE BEEN TO MANY FITTINGS AND HAVE HAD MANY SUITS MADE SO PLEASE KEEP QUIET!" He kept quiet. He also showed me a finished suit. RM550 for labour, but faux cuffs, no this no that forgetaboutit. He showed me a shirt. No collar bone pocket, low density sewing, no French seams, machine-sewn buttons, bleh bleh yawn. RM100 for labour. This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 10 2010, 10:06 PM |
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Jul 10 2010, 11:26 PM
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#128
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
QUOTE(pendekar111 @ Jul 10 2010, 10:59 PM) Gentlemen, I've never seen ALT do a tuxedo. You can be the first to give it a go, I suppose.Sorry to make an abrupt change in topic. I'm seeking some advice on making a classic tuxedo for a close friends wedding. Have any of you had any experience ? Does ALT (who seems to be quite the preferred tailor here) do dinner jackets (well)? Also what would you suggest in procuring the material, e.g buying my own, if it is possible to find any. Or go with what the tailor has. I would in this case just go with what the tailor has. Your friend is most demanding. |
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Jul 10 2010, 11:34 PM
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#129
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
Those two threads are really just for Miss Loke and me.
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Jul 10 2010, 11:50 PM
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#130
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
Now that you mentioned it netmatrix, I was at Isetan KLCC and saw the Sparkmanshop counter there doing a fitting on a real customer!!!!!!!! Today!
Muahahahahah!! Ahahahaha! THE WORST SUIT I HAVE SEEN IN MY LIFE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ......IN MY LIFE!!! It didn't fit AT ALL, and two "tailors" were fussing over the customer who wore ......... a skinny fit T-shirt and looks totally clueless (as you have to be to use SparkMS). Added on July 10, 2010, 11:53 pmIt was a black suit too. Added on July 10, 2010, 11:58 pm QUOTE(netmatrix2 @ Jul 10 2010, 11:43 PM) If you hunt for your own fabric, you get what you want. Shops generally have limited colors. They would have black, but the fabric quality would differ and the prices change. The color FusionEx mentioned is actually a weird blue black kind of color. With bright light its blue, and under low light its black. This is actually a politically correct color for tuxedo. But its very rarely seen. Black is the generally accepted one. I do not know if most tailors stock midnight blue fabrics. Its best you check out how midnight blue looks like first. I don't think you understand the pricing level of Granoff or Bespoked. They are 60%-80% more expensive than ALT.Or you could opt for ready made ones. I've seen the ready made ones from Louis Remogue (Spark Manshop) in Metrojaya Mid Valley. They cost RM850. I do not know if alteration charges are included. But if you want to go that way, this is an option. Or BONIA. But getting it tailored is WAAYYY much better. The only argument detractors could come up, is you won't get to wear it more than once, and they make you get off the rack ones. Its not necessary to follow the flock in getting your stuff tailored. Sure you think that AL seems to be the choice awards here. But not necessary as this shop is actually accommodating politically correct stuff to some forumers here. If you live near BU its Bespoked. If you live near Mid Valley its Granoff. If you live in Subang its Kinslager. If u are in KL then you could opt for AL. But really its just to accomodate where its convenient for you. If you are finicky on details, then its AL. Even then AL might not accommodate you like they accommodate Kotmj or bloke1. Good luck. This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 10 2010, 11:58 PM |
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Jul 11 2010, 12:11 AM
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#131
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
I know.
I encourage people to go forth, try new tailors, and give us (pictorial) reports. I asked the Tan Sri to try Henry Poole to compare it with ALT, I told the rascal rebecks to try Binwanis for trousers (but instead, he went to ALT and copied my ideas endlessly) , and I generally try steering people to use tailors whose work I am interested to know about. I myself will be using a new tailor (Miss Loke's) for my next suit. kneok tried Richard's, and the reason I went there today was because he is a more masterful fitter than AL. However, if you want to play it safe, just stick to Bespoked if you are rich and ALT if you are poor. Added on July 11, 2010, 12:13 am QUOTE(mark2036 @ Jul 11 2010, 12:09 AM) Quick question, anyone know where to get vests/waistcoats in Kuala Lumpur? I mean off the rack, not tailor-made? There is no such thing as a good OTR suit. They range from barely acceptable to hideous.Also looking for a good 3 piece grey suit (designer or whatever) off the rack. My experience with tailors are that the finished product tends to be rubbish, rather see what I'm getting when I buy it. But I can't find anywhere in KL that sells three piece suits? Thanks guys if anyone can help! This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 11 2010, 12:44 AM |
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Jul 11 2010, 01:39 AM
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#132
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
Zegna has gone crazy! Their mannequins are all dressed in shorts and T-shirts.
Added on July 11, 2010, 1:45 am QUOTE(silencer @ Jul 11 2010, 01:39 AM) Sir kotmj, any luck finding horn buttons in Klang Valley area...had to cancell my intention to purchase it from onlinelining company after purchasing the Bemberg Cupro lining from another site.... I kennot tell you ler...it's a secret.Very, very nice horn buttons in KL. RM4.50/piece. Very limited stock, you will buy up everything I'm sure. Added on July 11, 2010, 1:49 amBut walnek knows. You can ask him. This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 11 2010, 01:49 AM |
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Jul 11 2010, 02:08 AM
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#133
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
Walnek isn't missing, he just PM'd me a few days ago to complain about AL price-gouging him on a pair of trousers.
Added on July 11, 2010, 2:11 am QUOTE(silencer @ Jul 11 2010, 02:04 AM) arghhhhh.....walnek had been missing for soo long.....will try to sms him.....thnx Noooo! Where did he get that suit from? Name of tailor?By the way...went to AL yesterday....and he show me a full canvassing suit made by Savile Row....thinking on trying a full canvassing suit for my next suit..at ALT..... This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 11 2010, 02:11 AM |
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Jul 11 2010, 02:15 AM
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#134
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
Think of it as charity.
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Jul 11 2010, 11:46 AM
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#135
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
You are certainly moving in the right direction. You've finally woken up to my immense sense of personal style and I encourage you to keep using my fit pics as avatars.
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Jul 11 2010, 02:27 PM
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#136
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
QUOTE(bloke1 @ Jul 11 2010, 12:09 PM) Gay kuo long...I saw an unlined/self-lined linen jacket just now. It is constructed very differently indeed. Wanted to buy it as a sample for my tailor to copy, but it costs RM60. Haih. Added on July 11, 2010, 3:46 pm ![]() Damn I like this. This post has been edited by kotmj: Jul 11 2010, 03:46 PM |
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Jul 12 2010, 02:19 PM
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#137
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
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Jul 12 2010, 10:38 PM
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#138
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
Most tailors have an extensive stock of cloth for you to choose from. Sourcing them yourself will be cheaper, but it requires profound knowledge to make the right choice.
It's perfectly OK to bring own material. Why Kinslager? You in love with them or something? |
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Jul 14 2010, 10:26 AM
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#139
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
On page N2 of The Star today, you get to see DSN with the Sultan of Brunei. Both are wearing navy SBs with white shirts. The SoB's sleeves are very long, and show no cuffs whatsoever.
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Jul 14 2010, 11:22 PM
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#140
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3,802 posts Joined: Apr 2009 From: City of Anggerik |
QUOTE(beau @ Jul 14 2010, 09:52 PM) DSN is not a very adventurous dresser is he? Matching PS & tie? His trouser buttonholes are machine-sewn. On my next suit, I will make the buttonholes myself.BTW , have you managed to get Ah Loke to improve the quality of his button holes where suits are concerned? I would be interested in trying him out if you have. I had a quick peek at Bespoked and they seem to have very well finished button holes on their jackets. I have just purchased some fabric (1.5 m) in kid mohair & wool from Ebay and was thinking of having ALT make trousers in a similar design to yours with the inclusion of a fish tail back. How much material did you purchase for the trouser lining? I am thinking of having the trousers lined to below the knee. He provides the trouser lining. A fish tail back can only be worn with braces. You will look like Larry King if you do not wear a jacket with it. |
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