thanks bro. because everytime like "ooh~..lines" then line it..but after finish with kit. then only see like aiseh..too many line look messy..T_T

i believe your problem then lies in the panel lines being too thick, thus making it look very messy. to be safe, stick to gundam panel lining pens. look a few pages back and there will be some info on it, as well as where to get them.

Thanx for answering....i've recently purchase quite number of colors from mgs2u and to be honest Gaia colors are much more nicer than others i saw. Well its just my opinion. Btw, mgs2u advised me to buy the brush master thinner since it is thinner + retarder.

I still haven't try it yet coz quite busy this few days.

i just bought kaiyodo's flcl canti, but the joints are crap
thinking of modding with revoltech joints, any modders can help me? i'll pay and provide the joints

this is the mod i plan to do
http://tomopop.com/post.phtml?pk=9302&un=donsolo

anyway since at gunpla thread many talk about zippo lighter fuel.

recently i try thin it with my enamel paint to prepare for panel washing, work nice, but problem is, it vaporize too fast ~.~ hence the paint dry up and i nid to pour in more fuel again @@..

am i doing it wrg or wat ??

nope, that happens. for best effect, use enamel thinner to thin the paint, then use zippo fluid to wipe off. enamel thinner not too exp also, tamiya's is only 20 a bottle.

Guys, Thank god i found this forum...

I hv been facing this problem...
I wanna paint my transformers toys chrome paint (reflective silver) but i ran out of idea what paint should I use and how to maintain it so it wont get scratched, and AT THE SAME TIME I wanna be able to pose with it regularly...

and no, i dont just put it on display and leave it for ages...I normally pose my transformers whenever i got bored (and might take some pics too... XD)

please advice me guys, thank you n bless u all~

To my knowledge, i think there's no solution to it, especially u want painted reflective chrome. Probably the only solution is to get a real plated chrome, which to customize doing so, the cost is enough to buy u a few of the same toy for making one as such.

See, applied paint n ability to be played is not good friends.to have applied paint onto something, basically u r trying to make something "looks" nice, visually. To play with something, basically u r in a process of "destroying" that thing, especially in terms of conflict. By nature they conflict each other.

look at most of the toys, aside from the cost issue, instead of dying the plastic with colors, why dont tehy actually paint the kit? because take for example, a yellow color piece. if for applied paint, the yellow is just one thin layer of paint on top of the plastic. During the process of playing, any scratches will take off the paint n reveal the bottom plastic color, which by customer definition" not durable". But if the whole plastic is yellow, when scratches happen, what we see is still the same yellow; the yellow plastic yellow.

Even car paint. car's metal primer n lacquer paint n coating is consider very durable. but just use a 20cent coin, u can see scratches on it ady.

Some may say," I will play with it more carefully" but to me, that wont work too. no matter how careful u play with it, it wtill have paint scratches. So in the end, u ll still get a scratched kit; at the same time u wont enjoy playing it as much as u would like to.



My suggestion is, like many collectors out there, buy 2 pcs of each. One for keep or display. Another one open up and for abuse.

I went paint hunting this weekend. I'm actually planning on what color to paint my Sinanju. Now I got a Black Candy from Bosny. I'm going to try to do a Silver + Black Candy and see how will it look like. I'm actually trying to find a Clear Red can spray but didn't find any. Anyone knows where can I find a cheap one for this. Thanks!

Also, I saw a Metallic Clear Coat from Bosny. Has anyone tried using this? How does it look on a model kit?

This post has been edited by Madz.Madz: Jul 25 2011, 11:30 AM

i can only use lighter fluid to thin the enamel paint? leveling thinner cannot?

hi. i got a question. u do know a clear part on chest of 00 Qan[T] right? i want to put masking tape on it coz i want to paint part around it.. do the masking tape affect that clear part? leaving any sticky residue or nothing at all??

thanks.. sorry for the newbie question..

Tamiya masking tape have less sticky glue


or get the cheap one(the white) at normal shop



avoid clear tape as it the glue is hard too remove

yes you can use leveling thinner. in terms of strength, lacquer> enamel. so lacquer thinner will attack enamel, enamel thinner won't attack lacquer. but zippo fluid not expensive ma. about 7-10 bux..

why don't you just remove said clear part and paint, then put the clear part back? if you use tamiya masking tape, sure no problem. cheap one i cannot say the same.. use at your own risk.

i've been using the normal masking tape to mask the clear part

as long as you dont stick it for too long or exposed to high temperature or sunlight then will have no problem.

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Added on July 26, 2011, 3:33 pmbut my leveling thinner is acrylic thinner

This post has been edited by amduser: Jul 26 2011, 03:33 PM

you sure its acrylic thinner bro? what brand is it? i've never come across acrylic thinner with retarder before, but i could be mistaken la.

what brand is your thinner and what color is the cap?

Any inputs from our experts?

thanks..

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Added on July 26, 2011, 5:10 pmthanks.. i was afraid if the masking tape would do any harm..

This post has been edited by akoxix: Jul 26 2011, 05:10 PM

try doing shading with pencil graphite just now (no airbrush yet :[), here's the result on rg aile strike leg part
also jz try tat mechanical pencil can deliver a good shade effect on some panel line

try seal it with flat coat
later you hold the gundam with sweaty hand, the shading will disappear