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 Model Kits/Toys Painting, Building, Modding Thread, v3

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amduser
post Aug 2 2011, 05:00 PM

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QUOTE(dfcloud @ Aug 2 2011, 03:39 PM)
what type of super glue should i use?
before this i used the elephant brand(?) and it was horrible.
can only use once cuz the glue dried inside the nozzel sweat.gif
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there is a way to make sure it doesn't block the nozzle

my way is like this

then you apply the glue, you press against the body, after you finish apply, you press at the side of the body so that the glue that stay at the nozzle will return back

then you quickly that out the nozzle, get a tissue prepare as thing might get really messy here, after taken out the nozzle then wipe both the nozzle "mouth" and the super glue "mouth" until it clean (some tissue might stick to the body, if that's the case, soak in water and rub with your hand)


QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Aug 2 2011, 03:49 PM)
i recommend use cement cause it stick better than normal glue..
but take long time to make plastic stick together.. it have less white stain too

can get at hobby shop for only RM15
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one thing i dont like about the plastic cement is the smell of it shakehead.gif

my plastic cement doesn't seem to be better than super glue, it dry slow even after i left for for few days it doesn't stick nicely, maybe my way of apply it is wrong?

but plastic cement is more easy to handle, that's for sure

QUOTE(shauno @ Aug 2 2011, 03:52 PM)
ok, ray, you can correct me if i'm wrong, but this is what i think why people gloss coat instead of flat then decal.

as far as i know, a surface is viewed as matte or flat cos the surface is rough at a very micro scale. that way, then the light reflects, less light is reflected thus it is matte. gloss on the other hand has a smooth surface. like so (top is matte, bottom is gloss)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


that's why when placing decal, a matte surface has a higher chance of silvering cos the decal won't adhere 100% to a flat surface. this is also a reason why people gloss coat first before doing enamel wash, as there is a chance that the paint might get stuck in the tiny pores on a flat coat.

hope my explanation is accurate. otherwise i'd have looked like a fool with diagram and all sweat.gif
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yes, you are right

IMO, some gundam surface is glossy shine (like my MK II and force impulse), so i dont think those surface will need to apply top coat before sticking the decal
amduser
post Aug 3 2011, 10:02 AM

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QUOTE(amduser @ Aug 3 2011, 02:08 AM)
guys, i got a question here, i'm planning to paint my SF, the wing part already painted with gloss top coat with black panel line

now the body only got black panel line and i planning to take out the armor and paint metallic gold for the inner frame and black panel line on the inner frame, then gold color panel line later on, and i plan to use gloss top coat for  inner frame and flat coat for armor, how you all think? or the whole thing gloss will be better? hmm.gif

and where can buy enamel paint ar? TM only sell lacquer
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how you all think?
amduser
post Aug 3 2011, 11:28 AM

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QUOTE(reehdus @ Aug 3 2011, 10:30 AM)
if you paint and topcoat the inner frame, you may cause the joints to become too thick. the inner frame is normally just nice as it is to allow movement. be careful that you don't make the joints too hard to move.
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hmm.....will take note of that

i wonder if metallic gold from MrColor and metallic gold from tamiya will have slight difference in the color or not hmm.gif
amduser
post Aug 5 2011, 11:07 AM

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QUOTE(Tiger I @ Aug 5 2011, 11:05 AM)
Okay, thank you shaouno for the explanation. Might visit ICW soon because now me and my friend is enjoying finding hobby shops that are near. Regarding the airbrush, I will think about it, because still not yet confident with own personal skill sweat.gif
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how about hand painting instead of spray can and air brush?
amduser
post Aug 5 2011, 05:54 PM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Aug 5 2011, 01:03 PM)
I think fi want to improve the appearance, the first u need to tackle now is those nip marks n seamlines. Without getting rid of these stuff, no matter how much u modify your kit, it will look half cook/ unfinished.

Good that at least u have the urge to make your model kit look nice! This should be the motivation for your first step!!!!!
For camo...... well, normally it require some experience in painting. I would suggest u go to forums that allow u to start your own thread for wip. With that u can start recording n others will see your progress on the kit day after day or weeks after weeks.

Besides that, u can show what u have done, n what u think is not right etc. others will be able to tell u how to go about it n some of their opinions, based on what they have seen n followed your progress in the thread.

It's like joining an art class. U cannot go into a class  the first day and ask the teacher how to paint/ draw an apple. u have gotta start drawing yourself, and the teacher/senior will look at what u have had done, knowing your skill level, n give u guidance or suggestion.

Same thing, asking such question here will not do u any good.
If u r not going to that far in modeling, i can share with u one "curi ayam" or quite easy, yet commonly accepted way in gunpla. Do a "space camo" which only consist of straight lines. Use masking tape to create the 2 different color tone. hope that helps.
Hand painting can be very easy n not nice, at the same time, can be extremely beautiful but tedius.

Look at most of the fine art artist, most of the time they do hand paint, even if they dont, they start up with hand paint techniques. So hand painting is something often overlooked in gunpla.

How tedius hand painting can be? as tedius as making air brush looks like "short cut".

How nice hand painting can be (I mean for mecha, non organism subject)?

Check this out:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Credit to :
blz88bri (modeler)
zoidx_chung (photographer)

This is an winning entry in 2010 Bakwc. The shole kit is hand painted.


Added on August 5, 2011, 1:05 pm
pm  the member named oldman in ZeroG forum (www.zerogunz.com). He still carries quite a number of samuel decal
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what is space camo?

actually i just finished painting my strike freedom inner frame, i feel like hand painting uses less cost, and cleaner because no spraying involve, but it really takes up a lot of time

i'm still new in painting and i dont know how much paint i need to eliminate the brush mark, while painting that time where the paint has not dried, i can see the brush mark, so i do another run and paint one more layer, but i scare if i do so the paint will be too think

in some small area, if i put too much paint, i can see the paint filled up the panel line, which make the panel line become shallow, if there is not much paint and put more thinner to thin the paint, the paint will "disintegrate" hmm.gif

should find 1 day to go to ICW to see some example of gunpla, and buy some tools tongue.gif

here's the picture of my work
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


This post has been edited by amduser: Aug 5 2011, 06:17 PM
amduser
post Aug 7 2011, 01:59 AM

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QUOTE(kumanosuke @ Aug 7 2011, 12:46 AM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Yea, you should pay RayLoke a visit at ICW. I went there today and I got a lot of tips and tricks from him, thxs Ray.

I also spent almost RM100 just to get the most basic modelling tools which would last me quite a while.
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i also went there today around 2pm, got lost in those kampung road doh.gif

today so many people there, i saw someone call someone else "Raymond" so i think i know who is RayLoke la tongue.gif

spent around RM65 for the enamel paint, a lot of nice gunpla there drool.gif
amduser
post Aug 8 2011, 08:42 AM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Aug 8 2011, 08:09 AM)
0.8mm. u mean pics of size reference?
btw, any1 know which brand spray paint got chrome like gold plating colour?
i tried so many n all gave the metallic gold finish :swt:
i want effect like Akatsuki gold sad.gif
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wow....akatsuki gold is really hard, but isn't that one more like chrome gold finished?

wanna do it do SF ka? brows.gif
amduser
post Aug 11 2011, 02:03 AM

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QUOTE(rayloke @ Aug 9 2011, 12:32 PM)
space camo:normally in gunpla, duo tone color camo, consist of straight lines.

example:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Ha, bro, u should have called me when u were there. Btw, there'r 2 raymond around there that day. the other Raymond is the one won last year Bakwc with his 4 leg unicorn vs Khsatria.
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i see......

the 4 leg unicorn is awesome, i keep staring at it for like a minute before i start to move again

i'm too shy to call anyone la, everyone so busy there, dont want to disturb you all having fun with all the sticky stuff tongue.gif
amduser
post Aug 12 2011, 10:12 AM

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when i paint the base paint with lacquer, is it recommend to paint few layer?
amduser
post Aug 13 2011, 01:50 PM

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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Aug 12 2011, 06:03 PM)
saw Gaia Color 008 Flat Clear
i wonder if one bottle same quantity with one spray can so i no need to buy expensive Mr. Super Clear Flat biggrin.gif

also i dont have yet the airbrush maybe hand paint the top coat will do?
anyone can confirm the effect is same with spay can?
thanks
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i think flat paint is harder to paint compare to gloss and metallic

i estimate a MG kit will required less than half bottle of paint maybe

i tried to hand paint flat black on my kit but got some area have very obvious brush mark, while painting that time feel like the brush got sand if not enough thinner

i think i should get a gloss black instead hmm.gif

This post has been edited by amduser: Aug 13 2011, 01:52 PM
amduser
post Aug 16 2011, 02:41 PM

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i use non-modelling spray can for my top coat, since i didnt boiled the can enough some part of my kit got frosting effect (the whitish thing at the corner) now the coat dry already, how do i remove it?

before this i already painted a layer of base paint with MrColor lacquer paint, then only spray top coat, so i think use thinner to remove the top coat is no go?
amduser
post Aug 16 2011, 07:07 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Aug 16 2011, 04:00 PM)
^gloss or flat topcoat?
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gloss top coat, i dont think there is any flat top coat hmm.gif
amduser
post Aug 16 2011, 08:06 PM

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QUOTE(General_Nic @ Aug 16 2011, 07:17 PM)
i nvr heard nor experience b4 that gloss topcoat can have frosting  hmm.gif
anyway it could be due to cold weather n high humidity, even warming up ur topcoat can is useless
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i dont think today afternoon the temperature was that cold, very strong sunlight at my place too although i didnt feel much heat from inside my house since i close the door and curtain hmm.gif

on the 2nd try, i boil more water and heat the can up until it is almost too hot to touch, that time only no frosting shocking.gif

now the damage has been done, how do i "repair" the frosting part?
amduser
post Aug 16 2011, 09:06 PM

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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Aug 16 2011, 08:14 PM)
wipe the frost part with lacquer thinner and respray back
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the problem is i scare it will touch the base paint that has been hand painted by me
amduser
post Aug 17 2011, 12:33 AM

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QUOTE(Tiger I @ Aug 17 2011, 12:02 AM)
amduser ur using Anchor spray right? Personally I tried Bosny, it works better than Anchor
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ya, using anchor, but my place here only sell this brand, cannot find other brand sad.gif
amduser
post Aug 17 2011, 01:00 AM

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i wonder if all the ACE hardware branch sell the same thing hmm.gif
amduser
post Aug 17 2011, 01:25 AM

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QUOTE(kumanosuke @ Aug 17 2011, 01:13 AM)
I wonder if we can spray paint on paint mixer plate then dip a paint brush on it to do paint small details ?
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not sure, you can try, spray can should be lacquer, so you spray already then use lacquer thinner to thin it

doing this is a waste of money and time, get a paint bottle instead
amduser
post Aug 17 2011, 06:17 PM

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how you going to start the PSU without motherboard?

jump start it?
amduser
post Aug 17 2011, 08:29 PM

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i know of this also, but people usually connect one of the power connector to a spoiler HDD for some load, not sure if fan is enough
amduser
post Aug 18 2011, 11:35 AM

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i see MrColor got the super clear coat, in paint bottle form, is it same as the clear coat spray can? i think i prefer paint more than spray

before this i mention that the top coat i spray got the frosting problem, so today i try to respray the part that got frosting, and it seems like the 2nd layer of clear coat able to cover it

after the frosting part dried, it is not white in color, but a very rough surface, when look under the light it look like some burn mark like a dirty spot, i'm not good in describing this and i dont have a good camera to capture the image

is it normal for frosting part to be like this after dried?

This post has been edited by amduser: Aug 18 2011, 12:03 PM

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