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moxie15
post Apr 22 2010, 11:33 AM

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Hi,
cry.gif My favorite light - 2 year old Fenix TK10 (OP) showed signs of "burned" mark at the center of the LED. Now it has an ugly brownish donut hue. My normal usage is 10-15 mins max set at normal mode, never on high for over 5 mins. I've been very careful and used only Soshine RCR-123. I thought TK10 has a regulated circuit to prevent overheating. Any one has experienced this before?
Can any sifus help me to repair/replace the Q5 LED or anywhere to get a replacement head????
Too sayang this light. TQ in advance!


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moxie15
post Apr 22 2010, 12:21 PM

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QUOTE(susuman @ Apr 22 2010, 11:53 AM)
1st it was my P3D, then Pseudoblue's TK40 (?), now its yours TK10  rclxub.gif

Anyway, I don't know fenix has thermal sensor to cut over heating, I guess no. NovaTac has it, it I am correct.

PS : Soshine RCR123 is working at 3.6V , so it is 20% higher than the primary 3V; while LifePO4 is around 3.35V , about 10% higher.

So be careful on this, most of Fenix is design to use Primary only (sigh  mad.gif )
Opening the Fenix head is very hard, use a hair dryer or coffee make warming pad to heat up the head, then use an antislip mat (those use in car) to open the head.

Search for my post in V1 or V2, I did explain how I end up a Warm LED in the P3D. icon_rolleyes.gif
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Yikes, TQ for the inputs, will investigate this further. Will be more careful with my P33D.
moxie15
post Apr 22 2010, 03:09 PM

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QUOTE(pseudoblue @ Apr 22 2010, 12:38 PM)
The TK10 on normal mode shouldn't burnt like that, the heatsinking is more than enuf to dissipate the heat, you might only feel warm, even running down for an hour. What I believe is that your battery powered is over the specifications of 6v++.

A single 17670 battery would be better for the TK10 in the future, when you get it fixed smile.gif
EDIT: But 17670 won't be regulated very well.. hrmm.. 2x LifePO4 next time? brows.gif
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Noted with Thanks, will get these RCR-123 tested out.

If I'm not mistaken previously read in CPF, TK10 OK with RCRs , built like a tank-mah blush.gif


Once I've removed the TK10's head, can I just "cut" or polish away the emitter's burnt resin?.
(Just like susuman's P3D Post #32525838ยท) or better to get a new Q5 from Dealextreme?

Is it difficult to remove and solder a new Q5 emitter to TK10 ? Newbie.... blush.gif

What about the emitter size? ( 16mm Base Dealextreme sku.11022 or 14mm sku.11023 ) ?

TQ icon_rolleyes.gif

moxie15
post Apr 22 2010, 05:00 PM

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QUOTE(LightJunk @ Apr 22 2010, 04:29 PM)
I've been using my TK10 for more than 2 years with no problem at all. The heat sinking is excellent. I use 2 AW RCR123.
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I use Trustfire and Ultrafire 3.6V CR123A on my P3D also for more than 2 yrs too...no issues, just need to be more careful with my newer Soshine 700mA 3.7V RCR123(A) sku.13811, my bad... sad.gif
moxie15
post Apr 22 2010, 05:47 PM

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QUOTE(pseudoblue @ Apr 22 2010, 05:11 PM)
The soshine 3.7v has the same voltage as the AW RCR123 LightJunk used. Not sure then what might happened, could have ran it on turbo too long instead?
Regarding your LED, you can push away the burnt stuff of your LED. I think it'll still light up biggrin.gif But I would get a new emitter and change. Desolder the old ones, and solder back in the new one, but you need a thermal compound to go under it.  hmm.gif
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Noted with thanks, will experiment by trying to remove the head and burnt spot before trying trying with a new emitter.

Added on April 22, 2010, 5:50 pm
QUOTE(LightJunk @ Apr 22 2010, 05:38 PM)
I didn't mean to blame it on the battery you use. It could be the light itself  wink.gif. I sometimes leave it on turbo mode for more than 10 minutes or even until the battery goes flat. I really trash that light to max. I guess I got the good batch. Mine is from Singapore bought from CEJ or CJAE forget who it was. EDIT: It's cateyej.
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Me too, bought from Spore, same seller. CEJ fishingkaki forums.... smile.gif
Not too sure if the light is bad, maybe a mixture of overpowering it or just pure unlucky....?

This post has been edited by moxie15: Apr 22 2010, 05:50 PM
moxie15
post Apr 23 2010, 11:40 AM

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QUOTE(polkiuj @ Apr 23 2010, 09:20 AM)
Hey moxie, this is not a battery problem. The TK10 can easily accept any li-ion. If 2 x 3.7V Li-ion's voltage is too high, the light will be insanely bright (for a while) then instant death.
5 mins on high should not even be close to an issue unless the light is already hot to begin with.
This is definitely a problem with the thermal transfer of the LED.
You can ask CEJ what to do about it or look for gadgetworld2U. Beg them to help you. Heh~
Don't forget my LD10. =D
Nice pics, heh~ Stop saying it's not nice xD
GWEN! Where are you!! This is calling you!!
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Yep, I've thought about the instant bright light of death. But this never happen in my case. Possible thermal contact thingy, did not dissipate the heat fast enough.
Valuable inputs from susuman and pseudoblue, TQ. I may now just open the head for further investigation. May check with CEJ, and see if any of her customer experienced this on their TK10.

How's TK12, anyone? icon_rolleyes.gif
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