IMHO, our eyes won't see what the camera sees with the white balance locked. Our brains have "automatic white balance" and I guess it won't look that bad in real life.

Haha long time already loh... if it wasn't for me, polkiuj wouldn't be this crazy over flashlights either. yep, it's all my fault.
What about you? when and how did you start?

haha... busy la nowadays back to studying again... really hectic...
besides, I'm quite satisfied my current lights as they meet my needs so I didn't really have the urge to splurge on a couple more lights. my last addition was a 47s Quark AA Tactical (neutral white) from polkiuj.
lately, my interests swung back towards knives again for a while. Been EDC'ing a Spyderco Dragonfly SS for abt 1.5 years and not too long ago bought a Benchmade Mini Griptillian Tanto. Now back to flashlights again... just ordered another surefire to mod... awaiting its arrival.

some of my stash


This post has been edited by MetalZone: Apr 19 2010, 10:06 PM

CPF was slower than usual for me too. But now ok..

Walter... you killed what modus? Icon Modus?

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Apr 27 2010, 04:21 AM

haha... Happy Birthday Craig!

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Added on April 28, 2010, 4:10 pmI think there's no such thing as cheap international shipping with tracking in Malaysia. Your only other options i believe are the major shipping corporations like DHL, FedEx, UPS and some other less famous ones like TNT, Skynet, OCS (overseas courier service), GDEx.
The larger corporations may be more reliable over there in brazil.
I suggest you check with TNT and see what their rates are. My supplier in singapore used TNT and their rates seem reasonable (but more expensive than the local EMS mail system). but to ship to Brazil might be a different story.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Apr 28 2010, 04:10 PM

Haha... President kena poison again.
As always... flashaholics will somehow get into knives and multitools... same thing happened to me. I now have a spyderco dragonfly SS, benchmade mini griptilian tanto, leatherman wave and leatherman micra.
If it was legal here I would have been EDC'ing a 9mm Glock 19 or 26 or Springfield XDM.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Apr 28 2010, 05:20 PM

I'm a noob when it comes to actually using tactical knives as well actually haha. I can deploy and close my blades fast and thats about it. Spyderco is definitely up there as one of the top brands but there are plenty of others as well.
As for leatherman... check out the Skeletool CX or Charge AL or Charge ALX... these have a 154CM plain edge blade (but 420HC serrated blade for the charge's and no serrated blade for the skeletool). The Charge TTi even has a S30V blade (one of the best stainless steel blade materials IMHO). The Wave's blades are both 420HC (pretty decent but not quite as good as 154CM and the others).

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Added on April 29, 2010, 12:50 amit's quite a grey area... http://z7.invisionfree.com/Malaysia_Knife_...php?showforum=7
just be sensible when EDC'ing a blade. any blade can be considered an offensive weapon in the eyes of a cop.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Apr 29 2010, 12:50 AM

underexposed a little is nice... helps to bring out the colours and accentuate the picture. it depends on what you want to shoot and what kind of look you are trying to acheive. after all, photography is art, so there's no real right or wrong.

for these indoor object photography if you don't have flash and only got kit lens, all you need is a good tripod. Set to manual mode, lock your ISO to the lowest, and set your aperture to fit the situation (to get the object you want in focus or to acheive more bokeh). Bear in mind by doing this, you will be taking shots with pretty long shutter speeds. For additional light, I use the light from my mag74 diffused(paper covering the front) or bounced(from ceiling or wall).

If you deliberately want to hike at night take some of the easier trails such as the one in Broga (called broga hill or bukit lalang). This one is fairly easy and I can lead you guys.

Best time to hike broga hill is apparently in the morning to see the sunrise. But all the times I've hiked up is only in the morning so I don't know how is the place at other times such as sunset.
I normally start the hike at around 5 to 5:30am before the sun peeks out. If your stamina is good it only takes about 15-20 mins to reach the first peak, then it's just a little bit more to go the next 3 slightly higher peaks. If you manyak pro, you could even go on for a further 3.7 kilometres to the next mountain (forgot the name) but I've never tried that one before.

Now that place is so popular it's really crowded up there during weekends in the morning. More than a year ago, when I first hiked up, very few people know about that place. Now people come all the way from all over klang valley and the greedy landowners (apparently) started charging RM2 parking.
We could possibly try an evening hike to see the sunset and picnic/minum up there till it's really dark then you can test flashlight all you want. I could bring my camera gear and tripod up (but need help ) and we could do a whole beamshot compilation.

Oh and regarding travelling time, it takes me about 45 mins to travel to subang or kelana during off-peak hours. So yeah 1 hour is a good estimate for non-jam hours.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Apr 30 2010, 03:29 PM

Ooo... congrats on your new business! Now I know who to look for solarforce stuff.

add: about the battery tester, a lot of people seem to recommend the ZTS battery tester. the mini one is cheaper.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: May 1 2010, 10:39 PM

Just a random thought... since I have been MIA for quite some time... so I've been browsing some of past posts/threads and man this place has changed quite a lot! And some of you have amassed some huge collections since the last few times we mamak'ed back then.
(for the benefit of csshih; mamak is a slang for an indian muslim. In this case, it refers to a coffee shop run by mamak's that are often open 24 hours or at least till very late in the night)

I haven't seen refnulf and his Kong-12 for a while though.

Actually true... unless your supplier gives you a big margin, you can't profit much from selling flashlights. So I understand and support malaysian sellers if it's only a little bit more expensive than buying online.

I'm finding it really hard to understand the translation... haha. how exactly did the other two lights fail? He only brought one REAL surefire right?

This post has been edited by MetalZone: May 3 2010, 01:21 PM

I thought the Surefire M3T was a clone according to rookiedddy?

I concur that cool white LED's are lacking in the great outdoors. Screw the higher efficiency. Lately everything I purchase has to be neutral/warm white or incan.

This is so true!!! haha

LOL. Looks like I started a war with my last comment.

Well I'm one one of those who tend to prefer neutral or warm lights indoors as well. And I'm not just talking about flashlights, I'm talking about in house lighting. Warm'ish CFL's (energy saving bulbs) look more pleasing and cosy to me.
As for outdoors, polkiuj already said it. haha.

Got such thing as high CRI cool white? You're talking bout the SSC P4 and P7 high-CRI? The best CRI's still come from the high CRI Nichia's. Over 90 CRI is what you would call high CRI. Most typical neutral and warm whites are only medium CRI circa 80+ CRI.

You want to prove worth? Try beating an incan's 100 CRI lol.

kiddin laa

-I had a rebel 100 which I sold, and yeah it has a nice tint. Mine had an almost neutral white like tint.
-2nd one i think you mean K2 TFFC
-5A tints... I now have 3 of these and I love it.

Wow thanks for the effort in translating the whole thing.
That M3T clone is so well copied I'm tempted to buy one just to make it a real user and abuse.

I agree in actual use, funky tints look okay.

You are right. Cree neutrals have the same CRI as cool whites. Only warms have slightly better CRI. But yeah I prefer neutrals because it looks more pleasing as well.

As stated in here: http://www.cree.com/products/pdf/xlamp7090xr-e.pdf
Typical CRI for Cool White & Neutral White (3,700 K – 10,000 K CCT) is 75.
Typical CRI for Warm White (2,600 K – 3,700 K CCT) is 80.

Lumiled has one model (LXML-PW71) with minimum 85CRI and typical 90CRI... I wish someone would make a drop in with that!
http://www.philipslumileds.com/products/luxeon-rebel-white/


This post has been edited by MetalZone: May 4 2010, 12:48 PM

The E and L series cannot be bored for 18mm cells (18650 etc) because there is not enough wall thickness. Only the C/P/Z/M/D series can.

Some 17670's or RCR123(16340)'s also can't fit. Depends on your luck on the internal diameter of the body or the diameter of the cell (some cells are a bit larger even if they are of the same brand). You could get the light first and go to gadgetworld2u to test and see which AW cells can fit.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: May 5 2010, 03:47 PM

LOL eventually will surpass 10 wan... I did... and so did many of you when you said it was gonna be one only haha. Remember n-1, where n is the number of lights. One is none. Two is one. Three is better. Four is more.

Anyone got a Surefire SC1 spares carrier? Looking for one.

Congrats pseudoblue! kudos to your contribution in managing the flashaholic community in Malaysia. When was it announced?