i have the MG Unicorn HD ... need to know, which part is best to panel line? and the decal also.. and for coating.. when is best to sppray for coating?
Model Kits Gundam & Mecha Modelling Thread v14, Bandai Stuffs and the like go here
Model Kits Gundam & Mecha Modelling Thread v14, Bandai Stuffs and the like go here
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Apr 13 2010, 12:28 PM
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#1
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19 posts Joined: May 2008 |
i have the MG Unicorn HD ... need to know, which part is best to panel line? and the decal also.. and for coating.. when is best to sppray for coating?
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Apr 16 2010, 08:54 AM
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#2
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is this a good decal to use? im building the MG Unicorn HD version
http://cgi.ebay.com.my/1-100-MG-GUNDAM-UNI...=item45f23fe78d This post has been edited by orestes: Apr 16 2010, 08:54 AM |
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Apr 16 2010, 02:26 PM
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#3
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19 posts Joined: May 2008 |
this is nice... non KA
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Apr 16 2010, 02:28 PM
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#4
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musha mk-2 ..
so this is shin musha rival? ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Apr 17 2010, 10:10 AM
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#5
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wanna ask..
how to clean a gundam from all the decals and top coat? remove them all i mean.. |
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Apr 18 2010, 12:54 PM
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#6
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unicorn
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Apr 19 2010, 01:42 PM
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#7
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19 posts Joined: May 2008 |
express mail is similar to poslaju ... ask them for tracking number
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Apr 21 2010, 11:59 AM
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#8
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QUOTE(stanleysum @ Apr 21 2010, 11:42 AM) wanna ask about MG Unicorn HD color + cage the problem with titanium is, the paint is too metallic to avoid such scar or nub markings... you can airbrush it, but then the metallic effect wont be as how it supposed to be...is there any obvious scar left on the nub point after cut out and trim? I'm still considering this before i buy it. i already refer to dalong.net and so far i didn't notice any thou unlike the KA titanium version which left so many obvious scars which also make me worry for my RX78-2 titanium version i'm receiving soon. i have the MG HD Unicorn.. similar with the cage version, but without a cage ... finished assembling it... try to build as clean possible ... the white parts aka the armor parts... should be the easiest to clean and leave as much as none nub marks .. i carefully cut from the runners few mm, then nip2 the leftover before i filed the bits .. suprisingly the white parts are easier to make them to leave as few marks unlike other colored parts... the pink parts also no problem for me... nip2, then filed it off.. the only thing you will need to be worried is, try not to leave scratches ... especially when filing or sandpapering process ... i used bakac filer, abit wide on the end.. try getting a more narrow or round filer.. tonite will take few pix... last nite applied few decals on them... so niceee no decals yet... the destroy mode i bought it fully built... ![]() This post has been edited by orestes: Apr 21 2010, 12:03 PM |
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Apr 21 2010, 12:39 PM
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#9
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QUOTE(Harddisk @ Apr 21 2010, 12:22 PM) The reason why the Titanium finish leaves marks because the titanium was a coating. Unlike the normal Ver Ka Unicorn, which was pure white and not as visible to the bare naked eyes after you've cut the nubs. true...Hence I'd never buy those special coating/extra finish stuff, if possible. you can make your own titanium unicorn using normal unicron... just spray it... Added on April 21, 2010, 12:41 pmbut 1 problem i maybe gonna be facing in the future is... the white parts.. always tend to get oxidize, then will be yellowish... any tips to make it long lasting white? colgate? This post has been edited by orestes: Apr 21 2010, 12:41 PM |
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Apr 21 2010, 01:49 PM
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#10
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QUOTE(stanleysum @ Apr 21 2010, 01:00 PM) damn... i already bought the rx78-2 titanium finish and waiting to arrive.. i should have buy the rx78-2 v2.0 and save me RM100+. a bit regretted now hehehe.. yeah... btw, bro orestes, u bought 2 unicorns for 2 mode? very nice i kinda fancy these unicorns.. the unicorn mode is the HD version.. and the destroy mode is the KA version... HD i bought it new, assembled them myself... no airbrush or panel line.. just plain pure white... very nice.. the KA i bought fully assembled, for a RM50 so i guess it's a steal... |
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Apr 22 2010, 09:48 AM
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#11
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noobie work...
applied some sticker decals last nite... really would like to try the dry and water slides ... need more training... ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Apr 22 2010, 09:49 AM
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#12
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Apr 22 2010, 05:07 PM
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#13
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Apr 22 2010, 08:06 PM
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#14
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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Apr 22 2010, 06:35 PM) my unicorn base come loose at below the screw part(part that can change base height) loose meaning it wont hold with the adjustable height?it should have a stopper there.. can adjust to the height u want, then peg it to hold that height... not sure how loose you mean.. QUOTE(golbeza @ Apr 22 2010, 07:48 PM) bought from karasawamk very cheap together.... hehehe...but shop retail should be around rm200 .. that what i found on ebay anyway.. |
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Apr 22 2010, 08:45 PM
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#15
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QUOTE(nazrul90 @ Apr 22 2010, 08:28 PM) not that.... the support part that can change angle not height(sorry for my mistake)... now currently tighten with rope owhhh... ok...that upper part... which creates ratchet sound when changing the angle rite? probably you screw it too tight in 1st place.. now it's loosen... the only thing i can think you can do is, fill in the loose part with something.. like tissue... unscrew it, fill the hole wit something enough to tighten then screw it back... i think laa.. hehe.. |
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May 16 2010, 12:26 PM
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#16
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model kit kamen rider!
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