which do u refer the radiator grill is?

i thought you want the same like vlad's koolance shroud.

anyway since it's build on steel, go for it.. it's better than acrylic type which easily broken if mishandle the thing.

maybe you should take a look on TFC rad grill too.. it's made by aluminum (black color) and it rock solid with a thick build.

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Added on February 28, 2010, 5:17 pmlol.. the steel i meant here is not a vlad's shroud, that one is made by alu... but it's the one that mato89 choose from. you can take a look at the link he given before

This post has been edited by kInOzAwA: Feb 28 2010, 05:17 PM

nice nice.. of course mr alving ong is nice person man.. hahahahhaha... go grab the wc kit, because it's already cheap nowadays....

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Added on March 9, 2010, 1:29 amthe pics were so blur.. i cannot see it clearly, so cannot make sure is it the image of barb or the compression fittings...

is it your tubing size 7/16?

This post has been edited by kInOzAwA: Mar 9 2010, 01:29 AM

yes i see your words there.. but i didn't see the things well.. hahahahahahahah

snap it again

now i can see it clearly dude, the barbs from bitspower. i thought you're grabbing some compression fittings earlier

so your tubing is 1/2" or 7/16"? if it's a 7/16" you don't even need a clamp.. it looks more terrific without it like a million-dollar-pc rig

This post has been edited by kInOzAwA: Mar 10 2010, 01:18 AM

use lighter or push it slowly.. it can be fit by then.. without using clamp is better because it's not easy to take off. 7/16 when put on the 1/2 barbs is super tighten already man.... it looks better without clamp

hahahaha better you fit the tubing to barb first.. let see, how hard to go...

hahahahaha if like that.. i sokong... better looks

anyway mato89, you're using feser cooling fluid, need no worry if there's leaking somewhere.. but if can, please don't because it's expensive.... i already tested it while my pc is running.. like nothing happen...

This post has been edited by kInOzAwA: Mar 10 2010, 03:15 AM

everything including Feser cooling liquid will fade after some time laa reiben

a clean without pollution distilled water will do... righttttttttttttttt....

yes siput, you can try out a mineral oil as a solution. maybe you can pour down the oil into your rig .. no damage bro, believe me

mineral oil for food ler.. not the motor one...

that motor engine's mineral oil is too thick in viscosity... it will put a burden to your pump...

This post has been edited by kInOzAwA: Mar 13 2010, 03:26 PM

errrr to replace thermal paste? ohhhh no.. please don't... even you get a good thermal pad it's not as good as thermal paste...

so, how about your setup? already finish or not? go snap a picture by then,,, we want to see it

This post has been edited by kInOzAwA: Mar 13 2010, 06:26 PM

it look stun if you make it little by little by post its pictures.. let's see the part by part on this worklog pal

still no update?

i think you need to do some cable management instead bro. It's a bit messy i thought. For WC, it's not bad for the first time by doing setup like that. Maybe you can relocate back 'em for better cable management and neat WC setup. Remember, less tube is better than long tube if you'd WC it.

u mean MDPC-X? lol... you can get thru Clawhammer.

then grab DFI mobo instead of red Asus R2E lerr...

if UT is not available then, grab DK instead. Supposed it can do the same, just it lacks of digital PWM, some accessories and mobo's heatsink only...

i don't think haf932 is small for your setup right now unless you're really want to put 2 x rads and quad sLi or CF-x on WC too.
i just saw a CPU wc only.. it supposed can do well like what madman said. even if you grab TJ-07, you'll still say it's not enough and small.. believe me.. you need to arrange back the CM and tubings as well..

same like me too.. noww the case look cramp just like a mid tower one.. sigh...