Sorry guys, this is an old topic, I just found out. Thanks for comments on my bike. appreciate them all..... and I want to provide my opinion regarding the Proarm. maybe later some of you would like to install the same ProArm to your lovely LC. here's some review from an owner after 2 years riding the bike.

first of all, people would say everything about it. some dislike the mod, but most people appreciate the beauty of it. I personally think the Proarm is an art. its not just an upgrade. I have never want to roll back to the standard swing arm after the first day riding it.

En. Serigala, have you ride on one ? if yes, do you think its not good ? I understand your views through your comments. okay, technically, the Proarm is not designed for LC. True but the method of installation is the same, one long shaft into the Swing arm and through the Engine Chassis. same method as you install the standard swingarm.



can you give example, what is the tension difference from Proarm and std arm when they both installed on the same shaft ? because Proarm is single and it weighs one sided ?? no.. no.. the Proarm is designed so that the weight balance and distribution delivered to the center of the swing arm shaft. yes its big in size, but the actual weighs of the Proarm is actually much lighter than the standard swingarm. if the arm itself looks like heavy on one side, the enkei rims made it even on the other. seriously, it is a balanced object. the question is, "How well you install them ?"... they must be installed tightly, cutting has to use machine tools. (*some people use hand saw to cut the arm) that is so wrong. and some people also disjoints the arm to make them shorter.. that is more mistake. it can cause the whole arm to twist on tight corners. well...I can make a book to describe everything about this modification. if you like, you can PM me, I'll tell anything you want to know about it. but all I want to say is that. if you install it perfectly & obey the laws of physics, you'll get one kickin ass hairpin master. question is... will you dare to touch your racing footrest to the ground ? if yes, you can do it because this mod will allow you to do it without much worry. 2 years of using this bike, I never crash sliding, only one accident previously when I have to avoid others and go straight into the hill. the bike never skids off the road. it is much stable at high speed especially when you're trying to overtake a car or bigger vahicles... and yes I can still reach 180km/h. (*I am 110kg/m)

to everyone, I dont encourage you guys to mod bikes like this. it requires a lot of money and more money to maintain in good condition. but your money, your call ehehehee.. ..one day, I'll retire the bike and keep it mint condition in a glass box for display.

to bro Serigala, no offence, I just reviewing the modifications that I have installed myself with my 2 hands and use it since the past 2 years. god knows its not easy to install... many things to check out and uses a lot of resources. but I'm satisfied with my work. its perfectly done with the help of my friends.

hope that helps. Thanks for reading. ride safe...

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Added on April 19, 2010, 2:56 amMy first day with my First bike - a 2003 Lagenda, skids off the road and it hurts so bad... all because of the factory installed V-Rubber. later I changed to IRC Wings and never look back. now I run my 135LC on Maxxis Promax Street tyres. they have more grips even in the pouring rain. you guys might want to try the Maxxis MA-3D tyres. they are much better. my friend use it and 'tapau' corner in the rain with his LC. I never dare to do that.. I love my bike.. hahahhaaa

This post has been edited by alcalie: Apr 19 2010, 02:56 AM

waaaahh... I missed a few days here and there were so many replies. hahaha.... you guys are very active la.. actually, where do you guys live ? I hear most of you are from Penang ? and I heard someone asking for TTS in Shah Alam ? when ? can I join ? :-p

yeah, this is right. I use Big Bore and big Valve, still can use the electric starter. just don't take out the decompression pin.

Bro, My bike has the same symptoms previously, the gasket blow and coolant dried and the engine oil fills in the coolant line... no engine oil on the reservoir... bike still run but the engine just cut off when its too hot. and if its hot, it just wont start... it also consume too much of petrol. when the mechanic opens the engine up, first time, I am surprised that I can still reach over 150kmh, just a couple of minutes before... everything in the engine is burned. the gasket is like fried poppadom already. I just tell the mechanic to repair... which cost me 1K++. haaahaaa.. now the bike is good. always check your coolant and engine oil and make sure they are adequate. my friend has the same symptoms and ignores it. one day, he over rev te bike and the crankcase blow and the piston sprung out of the engine..Center crankcase blown open! crazy stuff

at RM720, Price is cool for this Digital Multimeter... where are you going to park your bike bro ? some stupid jerk may just try to steal your bike just because of that striking multimeter... huhuhuhuuu

Guys, Dont get yourself into trouble... please undestand this first before you buy the KOSO digital meters.
there are different models with different prices.

RX-1 / RX-1NR : This is the BASIC model, this one does NOT have the Speedo. it ONLY has RPM, TEMP & FUEL Price is RM 300 - RM380

RX-1N : This is the FULL model, got Speedo, RPM, Temp, Fuel, etc..etc & etc... complete details. Price is RM720 - RM800

RX-2 : This is also the FULL Model, function same as RX-1N but different only in design. Price is UNKNOWN

RX-2N : This is the FULL Model, same as RX-1N, but different only in design. Price is around RM750 - RM900

RX-2NR : This is also the BASIC Model, limited features but ONLY DESIGN are same as RX-2N. Price is range from RM350 - 450


Price depends on where you buy and who sells. IF you buy any of the items. Please make sure you check that all the sensors and relevant brackets for the sensors and the meter are also included. these are DIGITAL meters. they dont use mechanical cables. they use electronic sensors. be careful. there were a lot of items in the package box. make sure you check all of them before buy. or else, you'll find it hard to install.


basically, below are stuff you should expect from an RX-1N Package.




its complicated. if you dont know how to install them, please ask the shop to do so and always observe the installation.


By the way, below are the difference between them.




RX-1N =======>




RX-1 / RX-1NR ========>

((Looks exactly like the RX-1N, but has limited features))


RX-2 ========>




RX-2N =======>




RX-2NR =======>

((has same design with RX-2N, but RX-2NR are the BASIC model ))




GOOD LUCK!!


just a piece of advise from me...

This post has been edited by alcalie: May 10 2010, 09:49 AM

you can search mudah.my and get contact of the dealer. then you can request the model you like... easier and much safer maa

haahaa... don't worry bro. if your bike still using standard CDI, short maximum rev would not harm your bike. but if you rev it too long and many times, then maybe internal part of your engine will be damaged. Standard CDI is okay coz got safety feature to care for the engine.