high cam+exhaust?

changing ur carb mainjet and pilot jet..... or change carb? Uma racing carb perhaps? IMO, by jz changing a bigger block with a bigger piston, it wont actually give big differences in performance.... an example, if u change to a bigger block with bigger piston, u will need to have more fuel intake too... another thing is exhaust... if bigger block + bigger piston + carb BUT standard exhaust, Its like a fat body human who eats alot and can process alot but cannot sh*t properly and cannot perform daily job properly... it applies the same too in engine concept...... correct me if i'm wrong....

This post has been edited by getexposed: Mar 22 2010, 10:53 PM

how fas is the acceleration of ES compare to SS ? seriously having to own both version.. I dun feel much diff ? Maybe I'm wonk or something.. or maybe only can feel it during surge when mid to hi revving instead of low rev ? Geez.. or maybe my ES is just shitty haha.. oh well.. But I'll go for ES anytime coz I like to play with clutch lever.

u r welcome dude. below is the list.
FZ camshaft, 28mm carburetor, custom exhaust.


no difference except that clutch.


After this round, I noticed something very crucial:
1. LC engine parts are soft, don't always rev it hard.
2. Frequent oil change is highly recommended.
3. Use fully synthetic if u can afford.
4. Never go beyond 10,000rpm. Parts in engine easily damaged. (stock parts are meant for 9000+rpm only)

Take good care of your LC guys !

This post has been edited by charge-n-go: Mar 23 2010, 08:23 AM

if change to uma racing carb, still got tps ah? or need to modify a bit?

no TPS. It's ok without it, FC is still good.

What is the recommended CDI? Recently i have noticed the Thai ori CDI for LC, orange in colour, price about RM160-RM170 and claimed no RPM cut off. Is this the good choice?

CDI with cutoff is better. You'll cry if the engine damaged after over-revving a lot. I nearly cried, because I found out the engine problem very early. Spent RM700+ just to change some worn out moving parts and bearings in the engine (all due to over-rev).

i think CDI without cutoff is for pro's only. ppl who know their machine very well. hear sound can know how much rpm d.

thanks bro, if like that, i'll try to buy BRT or Rextor.

im selling my rextor now hehe...if u interested can contact me...

bro charge,

for no.4, how to know about the rpm?

sorry, kinda noob here.

no other way to know except by installing rpm meters. but those oldtimers didn't need any, hearing the engine's sound already know which rpm range they are in. but i think you shouldn't worry about that, since normal ride with stock CDI will limit the rpm to around 8500 RPM only [cut-off punya pasal ]

If you are using standard CDI, it is absolutely fine, as the cut off is around 8500rpm (2nd gen) and 9200rpm (1st gen).

If you are using racing CDI, here's a rough estimation with standard sprocket:

1st gear: below 40kph
2nd gear: below 70kph
3rd gear: below 110kph
4th gear: below 150kph

quite worry about that.

usually i'll rev till the gear "habis", then shift to the next gear.

---

Added on March 23, 2010, 10:54 pmic, noted!

really thanks, bro charge!

This post has been edited by xmex: Mar 23 2010, 10:54 PM

slowly rev lo.. for me.. i sometimes rev and sometimes i let the engine relax a bit by riding a bit slow like 80 like that..if always rev like mad.. engine spoil faster.. this is my opinion... so usually after i rev like mad and moving with full throttle in highway for non stop few kilos.. i will slow down a bit my riding mode.. from aggressive to relax... this is how i take care of my bike la.. i never always wanna rev my bike till maximum.. i also scared my bike spoil faster... preventing is better than curing... hahah..

im also selling my BRT too, used 1 month...
poket $$$ habis so...

http://www.gearingcommander.com/

found this website while surfing MBC forum. pretty good site to estimate the rpm and speed when wanna change sprocket and tyre. select 'Yamaha' under bike brand and 'T' under bike model.

I can't sleep until now !!!

it is because... I got my new engine in the evening ~~

Just back from 30 min of not so hard break-in, only did quarter to half throttle

Tomorrow it will be my super hard break-in

I think I'd use older engine oil for my LC, if I have one. API-SG, instead of API-SM.

Another thing to note, is that the Shell Rimula X, is API CH-4/CG-4/ CF-4/CF1,2. (Shell PDF result from Google)
This corresponds to API SJ (CH is SJ equivalent) and below.

I've mentioned this before, mainly concerned for the camshaft used in LC engine. In this case, it may apply to conrod bearing too.
Critics to my opinions are welcomed.

My experience tells me, that bearing is one of the fastest to go, being the first contact point from the piston. When that goes, so does the conrod. When the conrod goes, so does the main bearing...
When Charge mentioned his engine got noise, that's what i thought at first.



Wiki:
Motor oil
Ball bearings
Notice the major brand mentioned in the Wiki page - SKF.




This post has been edited by alexei: Mar 24 2010, 02:13 AM