as for lc i hv tested stock & modded spec, normal spec was quite nice and modded even more best.

time to change pipe. 
sure my custom pipe la

the cam i think he will change the racing cam if not mistaken, as 4 valve spring dunno got damage or not.

we might have a new LC member on our next tt , cuz my friend is getting his LC this week yay!

me now phg aready CCQ then see if can wait till CCS then out~cause my name~haha or see wtt/ kl plate num till how many~if can i wan found back wtm~(wan tan mee) haha

new member. try at your own risk lol

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ekjEZp5Ows0

hhahaa... check it out although we dont need to do it again

KL plate wtx already la....
btw, wanna ask. my engine sound kinda rough. why ah? currently using shell vsx eo, odo 19000km
when cruise around 80km/h, engine vibrate like wanna pecah
is this a bad news? sigh....

hey guys, planning to change my block... heaRD that normal racing blocks get heat up very fast.
any suggestion for a good block ??

service your engine, carburetor and readjust tappet.
dude, have you sent the bike for mod? u change piston block or js the piston?
Today I went to Bee Hock consult him. He said 54mm is too big, 51mm piston is good enough for standard block. He has a high quality Uma racing piston high compression type.

ya ya hope so

@suren86
If u use 60mm basically same to 57mm..the different is the material to make the block and piston.. for aftermarket block use steel sleeve and piton use whether basic alloy or casting steel. But fz original diasil block which is aluminum alloy + silicon 20% ,and burned and hardened very2 hardened(die casting)and the piston use forged piston which is As opposed to casting, the forging process basically takes a lump of billet alloy and stamps the shape of the piston from a die. SO its lighter ,stronger and long lasting than casting piston.. and diasil block advantage which is aluminium block is fast cooling helped by coolant radiator differ to the racing block. Its made specially for perfomance as we know but its also made not to long lasting. Most every race using different block. hard to see a year of race using same block and piston.

so its up to us.. we have to choose whether we cant optimum and long lasting or perfomance and not long lasting... and depend on luck.. hehe..sometimes i eard some of my friend used for 2 year..but most of them not more than a year especially who like to sppeding and accelerate and using for daily use such as working...

so just sharing my knowledge and experience.. im still learn..even its been 15 year in motor world still cant find long last equipment unless use original part..

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Added on May 28, 2010, 1:16 pmAron

Brother Chage exhaust is very recommended. I use for half a month. More than 15 roadblock here in putrajaya but never been summon or told to stop. they dont even know its customade. maybe becoz i change new fiber..special fibre using fr factory to leaning water..huh..my brother gave it to me..its white and blue colour..and when rpm low than 3k..is sound like standard..so when u see police/jpj or roadblock just stay below 3k rpm..and the perfomance not bad..i like it..my bike usually 125kmh..after install it it can reach 140 kmh..so what more i ask for with stock engine and stock bike>> huhu..

noob sss still good ..nob 1 triovale it better perfomance ..but confirm u will get a lot of fane.. the jpj/custom will ask for autograph..hehe

This week I just passed 2 roadblocks. Phew~

btw, many 60mm piston and block are good enough. The problematic parts are crankshaft, conrod, piston pin, valve, valvespring and etc.
Why??

because the racing piston and block can tahan the horsepower, but the other engine parts cannot withstand! 57mm block still can, as FZ150 is using almost identical parts like LC. 58.5mm and above creates too much torque for the other engine parts to handle. Of course you can use (I am using too), but keep the rev low when you do your daily ride. Go full throttle only if you need to get serious (aka have fun!)

and never use racing spec stuff, because they are aiming to create power above 10krpm (cubprix bike goes 14krpm). When ppl lack of low and mid range power, surely ppl will pull the throttle hard for high rpm. With this, I can guarantee the engine parts cannot last more than 1 year.

That's why I always like people to custom made the parts for my LC. I want good power within 5k to 10k rpm, not anything beyond that.
Bizzy, as for the break-in, just follow the steps in mototune website. My piston breaks in damn well for 2 times ady. (Bee Hock checked for me)

im using the same method as mototune.. and just for 200km..now my bike smooth already...its perfomance very good..

hello guys...
can i share sumting with all of u..
about the break in process~~hmm..
when i first ride my LC,i already travel from home to kuantan about 200+ km..
at that time,from my home, the meter is just 150 km only...
and i ride my lc to kuantn in speed of 60km/h only..
do u think it is good for my ride..??
because until now,there are no problem yet..
just a bit slow,since i use 90/80 tyre for both front and rear...

I saw it d, but it does not look better than LC some of the parts copy LC 1

guys....

which one is the new Lagenda?
this one


or this?

waa..cun lagenda...looked like lc.. after this..lagenda will become "hot" but i guaranteed lc will still hot since every bike want lc spare part..

oi..oi....ni LC ka lagenda...ahahaha

stiffen and reduce ride height is 2 different thing.
Standard ride height is good enough.