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 ~**Proton CPS club V6**~, ..cpsV6..cpsV6..cpsV6..V6..ziiiinnngg...

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greddy
post Mar 1 2010, 10:01 PM

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Hi guys... i'm driving a gen2 cps... and looking for further details on cps immobilizer...
AFAIK for cps the immobilizer is built-in into the ECU and the key has a chip in it...
can i disable the OEM immobilizer? any idea on the cost?

p/s: so far during my search immobilizer only found this thread below....
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/692966
greddy
post Mar 1 2010, 11:04 PM

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I'm going for keyless start. The whole point of me posting here is to avoid the engine locking up by ecu. So i need to know what options do i have before i decide on the next course of action.
greddy
post Mar 1 2010, 11:41 PM

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I already did that bro... it doesn't seem to work... anyhow will try again tomorrow with different positions... thanks a lot though wink.gif
greddy
post Mar 2 2010, 12:08 AM

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QUOTE(mrl @ Mar 1 2010, 11:47 PM)
i thought the key must be inside the key hole for the immobilizer to read the signal from the key???

some sort the transmitter in the key is powered through the key from the key hole...

or the receiver is only activated when the key is in...
*
Nope the key(I'm referring to the metal part) and the immobilizer chip inside the key fob(the plastic casing) are not connected physically... no wires no nothing...
however the chip inside the key fob is quite close to the key itself...
tomorrow i'm going in with a multimeter too... will update the findings...
greddy
post Mar 2 2010, 09:13 PM

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QUOTE(zenwarlord @ Mar 2 2010, 08:01 AM)
Yes the immobilizer is built in but into Alarm instead of ECU. Meanwhile there is a seperate module for the captor.

Chip on the key is called transponder and yes the transponder required to send responding signal to transmitter (small black rectangular box next to key hole) when you switch to ACC. If you open up your key, you can see the transponder did not wired to the remote module as it place just next to it. As suggest by Spiroth you may stick the transponder on the transmitter but the location must be correct.

I suggest you to start your engine via normal practice by using key to ensure it's working before you move on to wired up the keyless startup, also ensure the key u use is without 2nd transponder.


Added on March 2, 2010, 8:08 am

Proton do not have any CAN bus system yet and therefore the ECU can't lock the entire car. The only module can prevent your car from starting is the alarm and captor, which both will eventually cut off the power supply to ECU to prevent it from starting. If any thing goes wrong usually resetting the alarm should be able to clear off.
Zen,

"Meanwhile there is a seperate module for the captor" there is already a module built-in into CPS? meaning to say all i have to do is to subscribe for CAPTOR service and no need to install their hardware 2K++??

BTW the new alarm system i plan to install also has a transponder i presume since without the keyfob inside the car i shouldn't be able to start the car. Are you saying other transponder may interfere with OEM unit/receiver?

QUOTE(mrl @ Mar 2 2010, 09:09 AM)
since no wires connected to the transmitter, then it means the transmitter is powered up with RFID signal from the receiver...

so, the reason it's not working with previous setup maybe because of the bolded sentences... u need to turn the key to ACC position... just my 2 cents.

if still not working, you'll have to reverse engineer la... lol...  sweat.gif
*
Yeap mrL, i can't think of anythin else other than RFID.

BTW i got to work today. Spiroth you were right.
findings:
1. The chip must be within approx 1 cm from the keyhole
2. The chip must be near during the LOCK position itself before turning to ACC(if in Lock position the chip is not there, u turn key to ACC and then put the chip nearby... the engine won't start).
3. Once started if you remove the chip the engine remains running (tested for a bout 1 mins only)
4. Once engine stop/dies (if earlier the chip was removed after starting) we have to turn the key all the way to Lock position to start it back again with the chip in place. <-- very2 dangerous
greddy
post Mar 2 2010, 11:38 PM

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QUOTE(mrl @ Mar 2 2010, 09:50 PM)
maybe you can do something like this if you want a keyless start/stop...

1. change the keyhole with a switch, rewired so it still replicate functions like Lock, Engine Off, Acc without the keys...
2. wire the engine start to a push button
3. make a slot to put the transponder.

so, whenever you get into you car...

1. put the transponder in its place
2. switch to acc
3. push button to start engine...

looks easy, but might not be that easy...  rclxub.gif

or could it be impossible??? naahhhh... nothing is impossible... and impossible is nothing... hahaha... make a tutorial if it's a success... lol...
*
Hahahah... item 1 quite tough due to the receiver is inside it... the rests quite possible...
my ultimate aim is to have keyless start... tutorial depends on my success wink.gif


QUOTE(zenwarlord @ Mar 2 2010, 10:30 PM)
Hybrid  brows.gif


Added on March 2, 2010, 10:34 pm

The seperate module referring to additional black box which some wire connect to alarm module. Let's forget about your new alarm system, all i referring to is your existing alarm system.
*
okay

QUOTE(voon25 @ Mar 2 2010, 10:46 PM)
I want to get waja CPS, went to proton today.....they said might not in production anymore... true ??
*
Read somewhere it might be replaced with Lancer... not sure how true it is though


EDIT
p/s: anyone knows where i can get the EZ Start? take a look at the link below post 142.
EZ Start



This post has been edited by greddy: Mar 2 2010, 11:42 PM
greddy
post Mar 4 2010, 12:15 AM

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QUOTE(Nama saya Amad @ Mar 3 2010, 02:18 PM)
how's the consumption of cps engine? mind to share?
*
Mine Gen2CPS.. almost 1 year old... below my ride's stats

Highway below 3100-3200 RPM... for 370KM consumed 19.5 liters
That comes up to about 5.3L/100KM thumbup.gif

Highway <3500 RPM for 370KM consumed 29.5 liters which comes up to about 8L/100KM - this was when i came "THAT" close to touching the 190KM/H mark. blush.gif

City Driving - Work place 20KM away and usually drive 110-120KM/H, after work drive to gym/pool then dinner... So far full tank approx 39 liter lasted for max of 6 days...
greddy
post Mar 4 2010, 09:15 AM

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QUOTE(tsg_7 @ Mar 4 2010, 12:19 AM)
so save? not even 10cent per km?
hmmm.sentra city driving approx 10km away can stay up to 14days thumbup.gif with 45liter full tank.
but of coz still got go around klang area berfoya-foya  wub.gif
*
well the thing is we don't drive in the highway all the time... so city driving should be taken into consideration... you can get good figures if you're easy on the throttle... but with a cps powered car... i can barely resist going above 4500rpm before gear change.... and every time i do that i feel so alive...
it's like the same feeling when i drove R34 Auto... but on a much much smaller scale of course...
greddy
post Mar 4 2010, 06:33 PM

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QUOTE(mrl @ Mar 4 2010, 04:18 PM)
i'm stayin in kuantan... I saw that EA Autoworks ad in G2C forum... but still thinking the possibilities of DIYing since it's just a matter of wiring, which i can do... but seems too many things needed to be taken out, might opt for plug and play with installation solution la then...

Going all the way to KL is not really an option right now... maybe some other time when I'm in KL...
*
mrl your are from kuantan??? huhu... i'm workin in kerteh... wink.gif

Anyway guys.... I did this mod already to connect my 3gs... give me a day or two to find the pics... i'll post step by step guide how i did it... and it's definitely worth it and much cheaper then buying the ori cable... thumbup.gif
greddy
post Mar 5 2010, 07:46 PM

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QUOTE(mrl @ Mar 5 2010, 11:47 AM)
nice share AhPaul...  thumbup.gif

unfortunately, I can't read chinese at all (especially on a computer without chinese font, all it display is boxes...  sweat.gif )

fortunately, Google can do the translating job for me... great tool... haha laugh.gif

now got better picture on what to do... seems to be relatively easier than i thought... but never know until we try by ourself... will try on this weekend... rclxm9.gif
*
Yeap the guide posted by AhPaul is quite detailed already...

Though i would to add some details
- Remember before you open anything, complete the cable first and test it.
- The 3.5mm audio connector you can find in electronic parts shops but please make sure it's a stereo not mono and at least 1.5 meter so that u can place it anywhere you want.
- The shop should have the connector pins too. Get the ones 3mm width and length doesn't matter (width is important... if too big it'll bump the other pins on HU...
- Get some heat shrink tubes as well... for a neat look... wire tapes are messy
greddy
post Mar 11 2010, 12:48 AM

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QUOTE(ahpaul82 @ Mar 11 2010, 12:15 AM)
Look what i did today:

[attachmentid=1477491]

Hopefully it will solve the rattling sound on the Meter Cluster cover...  biggrin.gif


Added on March 11, 2010, 12:17 amcannot join you all on the coming TT sad.gif
going back to hometown on Saturday early morning ...  sad.gif
*
Bro.. update me if it solves the rattling sound... cause i too have the dashboard rattling sound which i think is coming from the aircond vent... the sound is really annoying man... rclxub.gif
greddy
post Mar 12 2010, 05:11 AM

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QUOTE(zenwarlord @ Mar 11 2010, 07:48 AM)
It's the fin's that rattle on the vent.
*
QUOTE(ahpaul82 @ Mar 11 2010, 09:00 AM)
i have the rattling sound from aircond vent like what zenwarlord mention... sad.gif
my solution is when the sound appear then try to move the aircond vent lor  laugh.gif
*
It's the fins eh.... hmm... can it be changed under warranty... i don't hear it on my colleagues gen2cps ...
And guys... normally when you switch on the aircond, will hear the wind noise gushing out of the vent... but i can hear the rotary blades... it's like a pulse sound (very mild *cluck*3 sound).... you guys have it ???

Btw tomorrow going to SC for service and get my steering rack bush changed... maybe will ask them to take a look at the aircond unit as well...

greddy
post Mar 23 2010, 12:38 AM

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QUOTE(irix @ Mar 20 2010, 02:45 PM)
hmmm.. someone said yesterday, what's the purpose of leather seat if you got smoked by CPSers..  tongue.gif

i think it would be better if we create a Facebook group or something so that all members can keep updated with TTs, events or activities.. hard to keep track in forum's thread like this..
*
That would be nice...

QUOTE(ahpaul82 @ Mar 22 2010, 05:20 PM)
okok, your suggestion noted.
worse come to worse i will change the door rubber and see how sad.gif
33psi for front and 32psi for rear,
running 205/50R16 Tires.  biggrin.gif

what i did was almost same as kcng said,
but i only mention the air pressure before i move to petrol station...  tongue.gif
*
Bro what tyre(brand/model) you using at the moment... i'm running on 195/50 R16 ASTAR 300 by Sime planning to change to a wider either 205 or 215...
greddy
post Mar 27 2010, 10:03 PM

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QUOTE(ahpaul82 @ Mar 23 2010, 08:04 AM)
I guess most of the CPS users are using 205/50R16 tires...
I'm using Bridgestone Adrenalin Potenza RE001.
i'm using Tomcat brand RM3.90 bought from Tesco...  tongue.gif
maybe i sensitive,
i feel that my steering more lighter + quick respond after pump in 33psi instead of 31psi for front...  blush.gif
Usually front tires should get higher air pressure than rear, becoz engine is in front mah,
unless your car always fetch ppl/thing then suggested to pump in higher air pressure for rear as well.
*
Bro how does the ride feel with RE001... Sidewall flex and Alignment (pulling to left/right) and wet condition? say u run over a large puddle of water will it pull or just break through it.. at where and how much u bought it for?

This post has been edited by greddy: Mar 27 2010, 10:04 PM
greddy
post Mar 28 2010, 04:29 AM

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QUOTE(ahpaul82 @ Mar 28 2010, 01:33 AM)
Welcome.

i did post up my few problems over here,
Feel free to check it up, maybe useful for you in future.  laugh.gif
Good FC, i only can dream about it ...  sweat.gif
that is my first tires after got my car from 2nd hand dealer,
stock tires only used 3days...

so far i quite satisfied on it, has been clocked 15xxxkm in 6months time.
wet condition, sorry i don't run fast in wet/raining condition,
because if you out of luck, what tires also useless,
No second chance in this life.

don't put so high expectation on wet condition,
and yes, it will pull a side if the puddle is deep enough,
make sure both hand hold your steering and release your accelerator .
dry condition is excellent. sidewall very stiff.

For pricing, you can check HERE

Recently hot tires you can consider about Michelin Pilot Sport 3.  whistling.gif
read through Tire Disccusion Thread and they said RE001 performance so-so only...  rolleyes.gif
*
Thx for the link bro...
Anyway i consider wet condition one of the important factor... tropical climate... you never know when it rains and i want absolute confidence on my tires which is the only piece of rubber that keeps me attached to the road and go where i want it to go. Luck is something subjective... when it'll run out no one can tell, but we can't live in fear luck may run out, we need to LIVE before we DIE biggrin.gif . Driving fast is not necessarily dangerous but driving recklessly is.

Back to the tires... I would say that i actually had good wet performance when i was in stock setup 15" stock alloy and eagle NCT 5 rubber. Now i'm running on 16" 650kg/wheel alloy with astar300 rubber, ride is sharper and reduced flex due to lower profile but somehow i couldn't get the wet performance. Do you think it could be the rim weight?
I hope it improves when i go from 195 to 205 but i know more rubber doesn't mean good wet performance...

Anyone here with Gen2 CPS on MPS3 ??? brows.gif

This post has been edited by greddy: Mar 28 2010, 04:29 AM
greddy
post Mar 31 2010, 12:02 AM

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QUOTE(kobe10 @ Mar 28 2010, 08:22 AM)
Want wet performance use Michelin PP2,Re-01,Pilot Sport 3... The potenza Re-01 is quieter and better in wet condition compare to PP2. We tried it on toyota altis before. Hope can help you with this info. What tyre when go on water puddle sure slide de la.. hahaha... Or you find BFgoodrich la..
*
RE-01 is symmetrical ryt... is quieter than RE-001? How much is it bro?


QUOTE(ahpaul82 @ Mar 28 2010, 11:46 AM)
Sharing Sharing mah  biggrin.gif
since you more emphasize on wet performance,
then you should consider Michelin tires.
RE001 - Traction A Grade.
PP2/PS3 - Traction AA Grade.

[i][/i]

btw,
how you mention your RIM weight ??  hmm.gif
yeah, my sister car is using Falken ZE-912 too.
just beware the shoulder wear ...  sweat.gif
*
Bro it's not RIM weight, if each rim weigh 650kg cannot carry edi wink.gif, anyway my bad.. they way i wrote is misleading... it's actually the rated load it can take... this value is usually stamped on the RIM... for alloy rims the lesser this value the lighter the rim should (strictly speaking of Cast Alu Alloy Wheels)
but if you want to measure the rim weight you can do it bro... using a hanging scale... judging from hand carrying rim will be 11-15kg for 16" i guess... but not really sure la...

any comments on the falken ZE-912 performance bro?

QUOTE(VerM @ Mar 30 2010, 12:58 AM)
Really? I beg to differ...
not sure about pull or just break through but aquaplanning is a no-no for this tyre..
ceh... if anyone interested the GLC referred is the owner of a famous tower in the world... tongue.gif
paul, perhaps RE001 performance is so and so because of its dry performance only... it is not all rounder...
*
When a tire fails to break the water it aquaplanes, of course it varies with speed (Il take highway speed limit 110-120 km/h as my benchmark). BTW I think my next tire I'll go for RE-01 or RE-001
Thank you all for the input.... really appreciate it...

Satria Neo R3 115K... isn't that a tad too expensive....

greddy
post Apr 1 2010, 09:36 PM

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QUOTE(VerM @ Mar 31 2010, 08:05 AM)
Paul, why would you want to respect drivers who want to die....?
*
drive fast wet condition means want to die? doh.gif I've said once and i'll say it again... driving fast doesn't kill... driving reckless does...

QUOTE(jctasoga @ Mar 31 2010, 08:59 AM)
new stuff?

Proton is certainly moving up ahead with its new engine development.

According to industry sources, the new engine will be using turbo technology but is developed more for low end torque and fuel consumption.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

The turbocharged version is based on CAMPRO right? Read somewhere (very long ago) CPS can't or hard to fix turbo.. not sure true or not... rclxub.gif

QUOTE(sphiroth @ Mar 31 2010, 09:55 PM)
Exhaust (ayam brand), drop in K&N, LCP, Adj fuel pressure regulator and SAFC.
*
Bro very nice... with those mod you're getting 140HP cool thumbup.gif .... the dyno chart you posted is yours or Neo R3?

QUOTE(ahpaul82 @ Mar 31 2010, 11:30 PM)
RE-01 tire?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

This one?
i thought Malaysia got RE-01R only?

these tires consider Extreme tire...  sweat.gif
should be one level up compare with RE001...
same category as Michelin Pilot Sport 3...

anyway,
i didn't see the rim rated load on my rim...
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


no comment on ZE-912, because i very seldom drive my sister car...
sweat.gif  sweat.gif  sweat.gif
i just afraid they cause innocent ppl fatal only...
Bro, drive safety...
i would like to see your Dyno chart leh..
since i never see a CPS Dyno chart that over 12xWHP...
*
RE-01 must ask kobe10 bro... but from the looks of it must be pretty expensive like 500+ sweat.gif

On my RIM it was stamped on it... not sure why yours don't have.. something like this
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

greddy
post Apr 2 2010, 02:10 AM

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QUOTE(sphiroth @ Apr 1 2010, 11:05 PM)
Drive fast in wet really is dangerous. Even if you are a perfect driver+perfect car, you still need to remember that the road is 'shared' with other motorist as well. 

Turbo charging an engine with variable lift is hard, thats why only evo X got mivec turbo although turbo and mivec has been used by mitsu for a long time.

That dyno is from R3.  My dyno got satisfying amount of peak hp but the torque drop after 5k rpm. Really envy the R3 neo torque curve.


Added on April 1, 2010, 11:06 pm

Hows the improvement felt like?
*
so it is true that CPS is hard to be turbocharged...
Haha... for a moment i thought that dyno was yours... lucky i asked...
So like the R3, reflash or piggyback we might be able to increase and distribute the torque value...???

QUOTE(jctasoga @ Apr 1 2010, 11:16 PM)
QUOTE(sphiroth @ Apr 1 2010, 11:05 PM)

Drive fast in wet really is dangerous. Even if you are a perfect driver+perfect car, you still need to remember that the road is 'shared' with other motorist as well. nod.gif

Turbo charging an engine with variable lift is hard, thats why only evo X got mivec turbo although turbo and mivec has been used by mitsu for a long time.

That dyno is from R3.  laugh.gif My dyno got satisfying amount of peak hp but the torque drop after 5k rpm. Really envy the R3 neo torque curve. drool.gif
Greddy and VerM has got their own view n positive points. of course driving is 10x more dangerous compared to dry roads. one must be on tip top alert all the time becoz that split second u turn away, accident might happen. our road condition is also not the best when u can see puddles of water forming after just 5 mins of rain. that doesn't help when you are driving even at 80kmh on the highway... u are likely to skid too.

anyhow, cool it brothers. we are all careful drivers and we all meant well with good intentions.

let's not dwell on it too much. at the end of the day, drive safely during the wet or dry and at any time. smile.gif

peace too all!  icon_rolleyes.gif  and happy CPS-ing  icon_rolleyes.gif
*


Hahah... i mean no harm bro, totally cool with VerM.. like you said it's just different point of view...
just sharing what i know.. risks are everywhere... mitigating it is what sets people apart wink.gif
focusing while driving is key.... "good drivers... just drive..." hahahah heard that somewhere...
btw if you guys have the opportunity to get into defensive driving course i would suggest grab it.... really worth it... fun, informative and exciting too... took it sometime in 2008.

Next step maybe attend stunt driving course like the police guys... that would be cool... den i can direct my one Italian Job... muahahahah.... sorry.. over excited.. wub.gif

greddy
post Apr 3 2010, 09:29 AM

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QUOTE
QUOTE(eastwest @ Apr 2 2010, 10:19 AM)

Hahah... i mean no harm bro, totally cool with VerM.. like you said it's just different point of view...
just sharing what i know.. risks are everywhere... mitigating it is what sets people apart  wink.gif
focusing while driving is key.... "good drivers... just drive..." hahahah heard that somewhere...
btw if you guys have the opportunity to get into defensive driving course i would suggest grab it.... really worth it... fun, informative and exciting too... took it sometime in 2008.

Next step maybe attend stunt driving course like the police guys... that would be cool... den i can direct my one Italian Job... muahahahah.... sorry.. over excited.. wub.gif
*
If our car is fitted with some sort of vsa, esc etc....., will it help to reduce the probability of skidding to some extent?
*



YES...
for proton i presume ABS + EBD = Electronic Stability (sumtin like VSA of honda) NO hmm.gif ?

This post has been edited by greddy: Apr 3 2010, 09:31 AM
greddy
post Apr 3 2010, 05:00 PM

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QUOTE
QUOTE(mrl @ Apr 3 2010, 09:42 AM)

YES...
for proton i presume ABS + EBD = Electronic Stability (sumtin like VSA of honda) NO hmm.gif ?
*
i dont think ABS+EBD will equal ESC... ESC will always calculate and adjust torque distribution as the car move, EBD will calculate and adjust brake distribution, ABS to prevent brake lock...

EBD adjust understeer/oversteer accordingly during braking... ESC adjust understeer/oversteer accordingly all the time....
*
Agreed.. but with ABS + EBD = we the driver can be the ESC (lets call it Manual SC or MSC) tongue.gif but might not be as efficient as the computer ESC hehe...
Imagine this... you miscalculate a corner and entered at higher speed... you took the corner and start realizing that you are understeering... u hit the brakes... but since u have ABS you won't lock up... and since we have EBD the braking would be such that you can still steer the car to path you want it to.... when you're back to the line you wanted to be you take the foot of the brakes and slam on the accelerator.... Tada!!! you've just witnessed MSC thumbup.gif

BTW the above is my personnel experience in kuantan biggrin.gif ... there's this bypass road from semambu main road to the highway heading to kemaman, it cuts through a besi buruk and a temple... it's a winding road.. not sure the distance but quite short stretch... i found the road by chance when using GPS and let me tell you every time i head to kemaman back from kuantan i never fail to race that road... (can't use nighttime as it is pitch dark and you're simply asking for trouble). Every turn the tire screams and understeer and i play with brake and throttle all the way... 3rd gear max.... wow... i got a lil bit excited didn't i... hahahahah blush.gif CPS ROCKS!!!!!!!!!!!

mrl you in kuantan right... you know the road?

Anyway does GEN2 CPS has ESC? if it does i don't know if it's helping me or not....

QUOTE(kcng @ Apr 3 2010, 10:29 AM)
ABS only work if u stomp on the brakes and the system detect that your braking will lock the wheels or not.. if it will lock the wheels, it will then "unlock" it for you...

yes, if u have 4 channel abs, the system will detect (on braking) which wheel is locking up and it will then "unlock" that particular wheel...
nope...
ESC cuts power from engine to the slipping wheel...
EBD distribute the brake force... u still have the same amount of braking force, just that it will be distributed by the system to other wheels
*
Bro how do you plan to cut the power from engine to each wheel individually??? and what if it's a front wheel/rear wheel drive... these doesn't have power on all wheel does it.... that being said you can however cut the power from the engine to all wheel at one go.. similar to engaging your clutch... ESC applies brake to individual wheels...

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