maybe u should include wat type of engine oil u using and also hows ur oil change for ur AT...

the small drop of rpm after gear change maybe due to the cps system...

just wanna clarify, choking means u have to press the accelerator more that normal ke?? how bout choking at lower rpm?? does it happen too??

Probably your GB is slipping....

What have you repaired, change or modified lately? How old is ur car? It happen during cold start or under hot sun? May need more info before can suggest you what to check.

---

Added on March 1, 2010, 12:58 pm

When it shift down the RPM goes higher indeed.

if this problem occur after the 20k service, means the mechanic might do some mistakes while servicing... haha....

i dont see this as the CPS module problem... unless CPS got delay in trigger and release trigger... i just think it's a gearbox issue... but, i ain't an expert on cars engine...

is there any possibilities that the oil they use for the gearbox have problems???

alexscm,
Did u get ur car diagnose with PDT when you first encounter this problem? If not then It's good to do as first step to trace the problem. If couldn't find any problem then we can start to look at mechanical problem.

That's right the handheld device that plug into ODBII (terminal) under your dashboard is PDT. Your problem sounds like combustion issue to me, Throttle Body portion is my main suspect as the MAP sensor on the throttle body might sending the wrong data to ECU but refer to the mileage it doesn't seems to break down that early. Perhaps do some cleaning by using proper cleaner may help, the SC may able to do so.

Also the distributor coil could be the culprit as well, the reason I'm saying so is because if the coils fails to provide sufficient ignition to the plug it may cause your combustion chamber running too rich, therefore you'll feel the rpm drops or lagging. Apart from that, the O2 sensor may cause problem by given wrong data to ECU and causes wrong A/F mixture. Again refer to your mileage it's doesn't seems to breakdown that fast, but Proton quality hard to predicts.

Another possibility is Fuel pump, where it fails to supply sufficient pressure of fuel during WOT (Wide Open Throttle). There is a possibility where your fuel filter got blockage due to particle from our petrol especially RON95 and that blockage causing fuel pressure drop.

Just curious did u face the same problem since day 1?

Yes the immobilizer is built in but into Alarm instead of ECU. Meanwhile there is a seperate module for the captor.

Chip on the key is called transponder and yes the transponder required to send responding signal to transmitter (small black rectangular box next to key hole) when you switch to ACC. If you open up your key, you can see the transponder did not wired to the remote module as it place just next to it. As suggest by Spiroth you may stick the transponder on the transmitter but the location must be correct.

I suggest you to start your engine via normal practice by using key to ensure it's working before you move on to wired up the keyless startup, also ensure the key u use is without 2nd transponder.

---

Added on March 2, 2010, 8:08 am

Proton do not have any CAN bus system yet and therefore the ECU can't lock the entire car. The only module can prevent your car from starting is the alarm and captor, which both will eventually cut off the power supply to ECU to prevent it from starting. If any thing goes wrong usually resetting the alarm should be able to clear off.

---

Added on March 2, 2010, 8:22 am

Numbers of waja user claim that. But for my earlier fuel pump, it served me for 8 years without any problem until the day I took it down during engine conversion. The pump will spoilt if we're frequently running very very low (nearly to empty) on our fuel tank as the pump gets very hot, thus that reduce the lifespan of the pump.

The possibility of fuel pump problem is there as it fails to provide sufficient pressure to the fuel regulator. But other than that, the fuel regulator may cause the problem as well. I remember earlier Sphiroth faced jerking problem during cruising and he solved that by installing Adjustable Fuel Regulator, he could be having the same problem like you but his running with MT, so not noticeable in rpm dipping when engage gear.

If you have a generous friend that can borrow his standard fuel regulator for you to troubleshoot then it will be good.

Welcome to (another) club    

mine change ady...Race Engineering made in japan..semi ceramic...90% dust free(normally..1day trip to work and after arrive at home definetly there`s a dust on my rim..now after 4days of driving..the rim still shine..few touch then onli can c the dust in my hand) ..

That sceeching sound could be due to unbalance disc rotor or the brake pad uneven (due to no proper bedding). You can do a quick check on the disc rotor to see if there is any surface scrathing.

The majority SC workers are hopeless, but I can't say all of them are bad. Maybe 2 out of 1,000 is real good mechanic. Last time when my Gen2 is under warranty, I saw there is a leakage on my AT gearbox. I complained and they use silicon spray and wipe it off and tell me already fix and no more leaking. I walked to registration counter and asked the customer service guys from which Tok Guru they bought the "magic spray" from as I would like to have 1 can as well. What the mech interest more is the mod I've done and they eventually bring me to the work bay ask me about the LCP, extractor, jack up my car and ask me about the piping setup. Teh most interesting part is they test my car then tell me its very responsive and the acceleration is fast, but the actual test drive is to check my absober.

Yes, after dismantling the Proton dashboard you'll have rattling noise here n there. Wrapping by using Leather is not preferrable due to direct exposure to heat that comes direct from windscreen. The original material used for dashboard is "poron", not PVC. Maybe u should change the entire dashboard instead, i bet there must be some CPS owner is upgrading their ride to 4G's.

For your jerking problem, maybe u can try to swap a standard regulator for troubleshooting purpose. Try to do those cost u less.

---

Added on March 2, 2010, 11:14 am

Get an used one, there're ppl converting engine. It should not exceeded RM200.

if you don't mind can you share the where is your scratches at?

alex, post up the sticker again
want to see it again. izzit custom?
coz i want something about cps been sticked at my dashboard

hmm...have u heard of otter color? That might be able to cover off the scratches. All you need to do is find the correct color. Here is the link.

http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/805887

ya...i know otter color...but they only come in few color shades....dak grey, grey, brown....but the brown is kinda light compared to waja CPS' dashboard brown.

hmmm
i heard WAJA is better than WIRA...
is it true?? 

hmmm
can try out elite with alexscm's waja..
blm 1.6? or 1.3?
120~140km/h for MyVi shake like hell liao
summore 220km/h??

wonder can it do the number? 

Get AFR digital meter instead, it's extremely hard for you to get actual reading with analog dial. If u have extra moo get Innovate LC1 (cheapest).

---

Added on March 2, 2010, 10:41 pm

Some even say his RM50K car outrun Ferrari F50. But the thing is that self proclaimed superhero is not racing with Ferrari, but he's comitting suicide.

in this case, as in fuel conserving and u driving a waja...

you know the drill.

alex, post up the sticker again
want to see it again. izzit custom?
coz i want something about cps been sticked at my dashboard

Very nice la...

Keep it up

It will be gone in seconds...

Lots of people in Malaysia got 'itchy hand syndrome'.

How much?

lelong ler RM3.. i take 1!!

May i suggest the emblem add 'CPS' word.

  wah rm10 he charge u?

member2 price rm5 ler.. 

tt session i'm in..  <-sticker2..