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 ♦ ♦ ♦ PROTON SAGA BLMCLUB V10 ♦ ♦ ♦, The Journey Continues...

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Kent Goh
post Apr 25 2010, 09:06 PM

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QUOTE(Twist @ Apr 25 2010, 12:38 AM)
Yesterday i service my car at 1k...the engine oil is 4L...i thought got some left coz most of  the car does left some..but saga got no left?the proton foreman say tis engine need 4L of engine oil its it true?
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Normally campro use 3.6-3.8L. should remain a lil bit.
Kent Goh
post Apr 26 2010, 11:49 PM

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QUOTE(Beastboy @ Apr 26 2010, 06:16 PM)
Just now I went to the SC to find the source of the noise. It turned out to be the fan. They said previous models got 2 fans, 1 for radiator, 1 for aircon. Now there's only 1 fan for both. It spins harder so its louder, and they said this noise is normal for BLM. Wah, to me it sounds like a bad alternator. Oh well...
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Beside can do soundproof on firewall or the noise cant be solve. I wish can do the sound proof too.
Kent Goh
post Apr 27 2010, 12:34 AM

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QUOTE(fuzzy @ Apr 27 2010, 12:21 AM)
ohmy.gif

Maybe when you buying your car that time, Saga sales there was good so they do not need to give much discount la. I asked the fella, he says for every Saga they sell, they can get about 600-800 bucks commission, Persona and Exora can get over rm1200, thats why he kept pushing me to Persona at first.

Then I told him I've done my research and know what other people gets offered only he increased his gifts. So maybe thats a trick other forumers can try, but remember don't go overboard la, people still need to feed family biggrin.gif
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Where got so much commission, as i know its only 100-200 only and discount is a must.
Kent Goh
post Apr 27 2010, 11:08 AM

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QUOTE(adrianteddy @ Apr 27 2010, 04:01 AM)
cold intake for BLM, how to route without drilling ?
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From Air filter box to bottom part of radiator and face front.

QUOTE(sturmabeislung @ Apr 27 2010, 06:42 AM)
do we need to take off the front bumper to change the horn? because the horn is between the air cond condenser and the bumper, no way i can get it....
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Take off the bumper just for better and tidy wiring, and you can install it with just open few clip.
Kent Goh
post Apr 27 2010, 11:35 AM

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QUOTE(tHe^CuLpRit @ Apr 27 2010, 11:19 AM)
Guys, my SA told me plate number I need to pay the runner RM450 or thereabout. I feel this is too pricy for a normal number...

So plan to turun JPJ tomorrow. What's the procedure to get a plate number? Both for running number and also tender.

What time I need to be there (PJ near Tmn. Jaya LRT)? How long need to wait? And for running number how to know what number currently? Help!!!
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Normally rm200-300 can get a nice number if you wake up early for running number. I get my birthday number at rm210.
Kent Goh
post Jul 10 2010, 01:02 AM

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QUOTE(tHe^CuLpRit @ Jul 9 2010, 11:06 PM)
What's the rear suspension setup for the BLM? I took a peek and don't see springs.

Don't have the manual right now.
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How you din c the spring, its very obvious to see.


Added on July 10, 2010, 1:05 am
QUOTE(kaizou @ Jul 8 2010, 11:59 PM)
Any pro driver can advice?

my own opinion w/o advance license though...just release the accelerator before entry to retain the speed. mine usually around 90+ only depend on condition (wet / dry) and then push the accelerator when in mid cornering to add some grip to the tire. wet condition need to control a bit on the accelerator, dun overdo/overestimate thus oversteer.

Oversteer 1 time on wet condition wif my Satria  cry.gif . following behind a beemer w/o realizing already 110+ into a 4 hairpin corner. my 1st major accident. nearly 360degree spin just beside a treler  shakehead.gif .
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If satria spin for 360' then saga blm might 720'. So just drive safety

This post has been edited by Kent Goh: Jul 10 2010, 01:05 AM
Kent Goh
post Jul 10 2010, 09:17 AM

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QUOTE(tHe^CuLpRit @ Jul 10 2010, 02:16 AM)
Actually can see, haha...  blush.gif

But I'm just wondering, how will it work if I were to change the back setup. As you can see, the absorber and the spring are actually detached.

So if I were to change to one of those types where the springs encircles the absorber, will I do away with the original springs?
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If rear suspension too soft cause problem to you when full load, then just add coil spring and match with heavy duty absorber will do. You will get original height with stiffer rear setup. Lowered spring is harder but its low down.

Absorber are more easy to sell out cause the life span shorter then spring 3-4times. By well maintain of absorber your spring can last 10 years.
Kent Goh
post Jul 11 2010, 11:03 AM

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QUOTE(tHe^CuLpRit @ Jul 11 2010, 08:58 AM)
Danke... but if I get one of those absorbers that already have a spring encircling it, do we still keep the original springs which is detached at the rear?
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If the adjustable is 1 pieces design then your doesn't need the spring anymore. Leave it there or not just up to you.
Btw, got any picture of the coilover you have?
Kent Goh
post Jul 11 2010, 06:33 PM

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QUOTE(tHe^CuLpRit @ Jul 11 2010, 11:27 AM)
still on standard now.... just trying to understand how the whole setup work before i start plonking my cash on and tune-up
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Just wonder if you found any rear adjustable with 1 pieces design, do share with me. I m looking for it too.
Kent Goh
post Jul 12 2010, 07:00 PM

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Why we need the rear power window since proton part quality not that good, more item more money to maintain. lol


Added on July 12, 2010, 7:11 pm
QUOTE(kaizou @ Jul 12 2010, 11:48 AM)
check the forum dude. got picture somemore with 4 switch panel. need to upgrade also. anybody..siuyi @ kent_goh. kent have spare-part shop at kepong right...dun have oem suppliers?
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If wanna change rear window to power window.
1. You need a power window main switch to control all 4 power window (No ready made)
2. You need both side of rear power window bracket and motor (No ready made)
4. You need both rear power window switch (No ready made)
5. You need to modify the wiring diagram to control from main switch (This can be done by wire man)
6. You might need to modify your rear door panel to fit the bracket

Maybe more and more and more. hahaha. This really big project, if make any mistake then shit edy doh.gif

This post has been edited by Kent Goh: Jul 12 2010, 07:11 PM
Kent Goh
post Jul 14 2010, 10:43 AM

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QUOTE(kaizou @ Jul 12 2010, 10:04 PM)
i somehow able to search it on mudah. its the motor + switch wasnt it?

http://www.mudah.my/Saga+blm+rear+power+window-5636385.htm

linlong auto....  hmm.gif
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Oh, what i mean is this not manufacture by proton. This consider as third party or aftermarket parts.

Beside proton launch a 4power window for new or facelift saga blm then i will consider to change it.
Kent Goh
post Jul 15 2010, 12:15 AM

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QUOTE(yngwie @ Jul 14 2010, 04:48 PM)
nah, should be on ron97 v-power at least 3 days prior to genting trip. this will allow the engine / ecu to adapt to the higher ron grade.
there is no immediate effect feel' even if it's almost an empty tank.
changing to performance brake pad is a waste of money. remember; bendix mkt is a performance brake pad. it will only works well in certain temperature but that isn't a problem.
bendix metal king need to be paired with performance disc brake for maximum performance. while paired with stock saga disc, all you get is more dust and worn out disc at a lot more higher rate. btw, saga rear brake is of drum type. bendix does not produce a performance brake shoe.
beside changing to better / wider profile tyre, rear disc brake conversion might help or dual layer brake servo for solid feel.
another option is using twinpot stopper at the front but this will require at least 15" wheels.
there are only 2 thing that matter most when it comes to brake stopping capability; the amount of caliper, and the size of the disc.
anything else will only compromise on fade effect.
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Bendix Metal king titanium brake that can pair with stock disc rotor, enjoy better stopping power and of cause disc rotor will worn out faster.

Bendix Metal King Titanium Pads are manufactured using a genuine Superior Metallic Formulation - SMF. SMF is a combination of unique friction compounds which offers supreme braking performance for your prestige vehicle. Whether you are in the city, on the freeway or carrying a full load, Bendix Metal King Titanium has excellent fade resistance and extended pad life. For truer grip in repeated and high temperature applications you get full control and confident braking.

Bendix Metal King Titanium Pads feature a unique Titanium Stripe to provide instant friction and no bedding in. It means positive pedal feel and sure stopping power from the minute you drive out of the workshop. No bedding-in also means considerable hours saved each year.

Bendix Metal King are well famous brand in world and most australian using this pad for their stock car with stock caliper why our blm cant?


Added on July 15, 2010, 12:21 amI would suggest to change fully sync at rating 5w30 or 10w30 and invest some electronic device like pivot vs-e, spark earth, ignition earth cable, iridium plug, drop in filter. For brake pad, bendix mkt, mintex are good enough, bosch brake pad consider as oem spec which better then stock lil bit.

This post has been edited by Kent Goh: Jul 15 2010, 12:21 AM
Kent Goh
post Jul 16 2010, 03:13 PM

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QUOTE(yngwie @ Jul 15 2010, 08:11 PM)
you sure about the bolded part? from my experience, and most of my friends in the racing industry, the stopping power is mostly determined by 2 factor;
1. amount of caliper, the higher the caliper; ie; 2, 4, 6.... the better the stopping power are.
2. the disc size; bigger disc size give an increased stopping power too. hence, both come in 1 package; the higher the caliper, the bigger / thicker the disc are.

no doubt, bendix mkt gives a better braking feel, but in reality, it doesn't increased  the stopping power. all it did was reduce the fade effect.
just like cross drilled / slotted disc (with ventilated tech gives a better heat dissipation)on single caliper. thus gives the brake the same feels /usability on frequent braking!
it can be pair with any stock disc. but considering that performance disc brake usually bites(harder) the standard disc faster than those conventional brake pad,
we end up changing the stock disc more often.
furthermore, performance brake pad becomes more effective in certain operating temperature.
changing brake disc too often isn't practical on daily ride.  tongue.gif
monster2020@
if you're willing to sacrifice the warranty,  just find a good workshop that can change the gb cog, thus alter the final gear ratio for you.
but being a 1.3 engine and campro's high rev in nature, you might lose some acceleration time in the process due to longer engine drag in between
gear change(unless there is something like v-tec or cps opening  brows.gif ).
do consider the slight delay in drive by wire tech on campro too...  sweat.gif
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How come u say doesn't increased the stopping power since its more friction? As disc rotor worn off faster, who care? I rather sacrifice it for shorten braking distance than bang, at here i'm talking about MKT that consider as sport brake pad, not those racing ceramic or carbon brake pad that need certain temperature to work, thats two entirely different things.



Kent Goh
post Jul 31 2010, 01:48 PM

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QUOTE(Newgen @ Jul 30 2010, 12:46 PM)
Anyone got change HU?
I'm choosing between Pioneer DEH-7250SD and DEH-5250SD

Please comment, the above HU owners are the most welcome to comment on the pros and cons!

Thanks!
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I m Pioneers 7150 user, you prefer SQ or SP?
Kent Goh
post Aug 1 2010, 11:34 AM

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I m more to SQ and beside choosing suitable HU, component, amp and woofer, you need to spend a lot on sound proofing.

For SP, totally cheaper then SQ but just need a lot of volt to support.

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