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 ★★★ PROTON WAJA Club - LYN V7 ★★★

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ThunderGod_Cid
post Mar 27 2010, 03:19 PM

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white lighter : realise i dont need it. I got 4disc enough already lol.

Anyways, anyone wants bulk purchase for pro-rs steel braided hose?
mxsteven
post Mar 27 2010, 03:58 PM

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QUOTE(jolipoli81 @ Mar 27 2010, 02:18 PM)
sam, yesterday i manage to remove the headlamp, and yeah, one side of my headlamp was unable to straighten the beam...hmm.. hmm.gif
it was not an easy work to remove the headlamp, gosh! took me more than an hour to do it, well, at least i did brighten my HID
oh yeah steven, do you still have your drop-in air filter box with you? i'm interested in getting it
*
im still using my air filter box sometimes...


Added on March 27, 2010, 4:00 pm
QUOTE(yngwie @ Mar 27 2010, 02:59 PM)
b48753@
yeah. it does help in improving the solid braking feel. but i upgraded to pro-rs brake hose after am done with dual servo. so, can't really feel the different  tongue.gif
*
u try to drive my car!!! sure u will feel u r stock brake is more than enough!


This post has been edited by mxsteven: Mar 27 2010, 04:00 PM
lanvin
post Mar 27 2010, 04:50 PM

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QUOTE(xin @ Jan 31 2010, 06:58 PM)
Yr 2003
Waja comes with Black and Grey tone interior
Waja has 1.6, 1.6X(Premium) and 1.8
1.6X comes in Auto transmission only
1.6X(Premium) has added leather seats, auto climate control, driver airbags, ABS, folded side mirrors, wood trims compared to 1.6
1.8 is Renault Engine that are not recommended as it is more costly to maintain

Yr 2004
Waja comes with Brown and Beige tone interior
Waja has 1.6 and 1.6 Enhanced.
1.6 Enhanced comes with driver and passenger airbags, ABS compared to 1.6

Both 2003 and 2004 Waja comes standard with Mitsubishi Engine 4G18p. Campro was introduced during yr 2006 replacing 4G18p
*
Hello waja drivers,

i'm looking for my first car! and after some look around and advice from fellow LYN forumers, was referred to waja! I'm quite interested with the car also. Considering new or second hand waja. New one of course nothing to discuss, For second hand waja, i was told to look for the mitsu engine. Is there such a different with the campro and mitsu engine? was told mitsu has higher torque at lower rpm (which is cool, it does translate to better pick up, right?). Another common suggestion i get is get manual instead of auto, what is there the difference? i assume its gearbox issue? How expensive to replace a auto greabox then (i wouldn't mind to fork out a bit to settle it if it's not re-occuring)?

So what should i look out for when checking out second hand waja? any critical areas or common issues (power window apart) that i should be paying attention to? How much should i expect to pay for first time, i.e. change timing belt, change tyre etc. Can someone give a general price cap so i can budget? I know i can find out from the agent, but sometimes, it's better to get it from fellow buyer that has done it before, right? tongue.gif

Hope to hear some feed back. Am embarrassed to borrow company car back cuti already. time to get my own car!

Oh BTW, how much does a routine service (change gascatte, air filter, engine oil etc) cost for waja? would it be comparable to a myvi serviced by produa?
WhitE LighteR
post Mar 27 2010, 06:22 PM

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Try to find a CPS version if ur budget allows. The mitsu waja imho is plague wit NVH problem. But was abit better for Campro version. The auto gearbox makes more sense if u live in a city wit lots of jam. routine service not so much if u know what to change. change a drop in aftermarket filter so u dont need to get new filter all the time. just wash the filter. where got ppl change gascatte for service la... engine oil, oil filter, this two is standard.. other then tht ntg else lor... atf if u use auto. thts it.
mxsteven
post Mar 27 2010, 06:39 PM

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QUOTE(lanvin @ Mar 27 2010, 04:50 PM)
Hello waja drivers,

i'm looking for my first car! and after some look around and advice from fellow LYN forumers, was referred to waja! I'm quite interested with the car also. Considering new or second hand waja. New one of course nothing to discuss, For second hand waja, i was told to look for the mitsu engine. Is there such a different with the campro and mitsu engine? was told mitsu has higher torque at lower rpm (which is cool, it does translate to better pick up, right?). Another common suggestion i get is get manual instead of auto, what is there the difference? i assume its gearbox issue? How expensive to replace a auto greabox then (i wouldn't mind to fork out a bit to settle it if it's not re-occuring)?

So what should i look out for when checking out second hand waja? any critical areas or common issues (power window apart) that i should be paying attention to? How much should i expect to pay for first time, i.e. change timing belt, change tyre etc. Can someone give a general price cap so i can budget? I know i can find out from the agent, but sometimes, it's better to get it from fellow buyer that has done it before, right? tongue.gif

Hope to hear some feed back. Am embarrassed to borrow company car back cuti already. time to get my own car!

Oh BTW, how much does a routine service (change gascatte, air filter, engine oil etc) cost for waja? would it be comparable to a myvi serviced by produa?
*
with mitsu engine u can have the ECU flashing/reprogramming fun hehe

satria89
post Mar 27 2010, 06:42 PM

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Yea i also going for reprogramming soon...waiting for my next service only!!

lai lai who wana buy my Redline LCP please pm me...fast fast
swk_sam
post Mar 27 2010, 08:00 PM

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QUOTE(mxsteven @ Mar , 03:58 PM)
im still using my air filter box sometimes...


Added on March 27, 2010, 4:00 pm

u try to drive my car!!! sure u will feel u r stock brake is more than enough!
*
Ya, stock brake is more than enuff. If you got extra to spare, then u ca go for it. Or else save for other upgrade
nayte
post Mar 27 2010, 08:10 PM

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speaking of brakes. anyone here using bendix metal king titanium? i've read that bosch powerplus isnt too bad either. gotta change soon my indicators are squeaking already.

from what i gather, bendix doenst require bedding in the brakes. how about bosch?

This post has been edited by nayte: Mar 27 2010, 08:10 PM
yngwie
post Mar 27 2010, 08:25 PM

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bendix metal king is not viable on standard waja disc. will bite' your disc faster than ever. thus produced more dust and disc become thinner in no time tongue.gif
could just use a soft sand paper on the pad surface.
bosch pp works better on standard disc, btw.

nayte
post Mar 27 2010, 08:29 PM

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QUOTE(yngwie @ Mar 27 2010, 08:25 PM)
bendix metal king is not viable on standard waja disc. will bite' your disc faster than ever. thus produced more dust and disc become thinner in no time  tongue.gif
could just use a soft sand paper on the pad surface.
bosch pp works better on standard disc, btw.
*
i see. yeah ppl told me that bendix will bite the discs faster too. so i'm assuming that the 50 bucks difference between bosch and bendix, bendix would bite alot more than bosch?
WhitE LighteR
post Mar 27 2010, 11:05 PM

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after hearing lots of ur comment.. i think i goin to reconsider the rotor thing. i wan to drop by EA n see their IMP rotor. see wut they say....
swk_sam
post Mar 27 2010, 11:50 PM

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QUOTE(nayte @ Mar 27 2010, 08:10 PM)
speaking of brakes. anyone here using bendix metal king titanium? i've read that bosch powerplus isnt too bad either. gotta change soon my indicators are squeaking already.

from what i gather, bendix doenst require bedding in the brakes. how about bosch?
*
Try Ceramic Pad.. Its cheap, silent & low dust.. i am using it now & it lock my wheel whenever I wan to. You wont regret biggrin.gif

QUOTE(WhitE LighteR @ Mar 27 2010, 11:05 PM)
after hearing lots of ur comment.. i think i goin to reconsider the rotor thing. i wan to drop by EA n see their IMP rotor. see wut they say....
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RM50 rotor from kelvin + ceramic pad is sufficient biggrin.gif Y want to spend more?

This post has been edited by swk_sam: Mar 28 2010, 12:14 AM
TSAndy0625
post Mar 28 2010, 12:09 AM

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What's the major differences after remap the ecu ?
Azuma-kun
post Mar 28 2010, 12:17 AM

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QUOTE(swk_sam @ Mar 27 2010, 11:50 PM)
Try Ceramic Pad.. Its cheap, silent & low dust.. i am using it now & it lock my wheel whenever I wan to. You wont regret biggrin.gif
RM50 rotor from kelvin + ceramic pad is sufficient biggrin.gif Y want to spend more?
*
http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=1300445&hl=rotor

this one?
WhitE LighteR
post Mar 28 2010, 12:19 AM

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QUOTE(swk_sam @ Mar 27 2010, 11:50 PM)
Try Ceramic Pad.. Its cheap, silent & low dust.. i am using it now & it lock my wheel whenever I wan to. You wont regret biggrin.gif
RM50 rotor from kelvin + ceramic pad is sufficient biggrin.gif Y want to spend more?
*
50 ringgit for rotor seems scarry laugh.gif

anyway my break pedal now require me to press quite deep before it start to bite. anyone know how can i shorten the distance?
swk_sam
post Mar 28 2010, 12:24 AM

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QUOTE(Azuma-kun @ Mar 28 2010, 12:17 AM)
Ya..

QUOTE(WhitE LighteR @ Mar 28 2010, 12:19 AM)
50 ringgit for rotor seems scarry laugh.gif

anyway my break pedal now require me to press quite deep before it start to bite. anyone know how can i shorten the distance?
*
For normal rotor exp if those come with brand... Know u paying more cos of the promotion.. biggrin.gif RM50 rotor is taiwan made.. Kelvin is using it pair with ceramic pad.. Seem work very well...
WhitE LighteR
post Mar 28 2010, 12:30 AM

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u wont know if its taiwan, china or msian made for sure anyway.. at least i get from a reputable person i got more confidence if anything goes wrong i can come back f*** them kao... LOL
kelvin3900
post Mar 28 2010, 12:33 AM

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white lighter, tat is because ur pad are finishing liao
WhitE LighteR
post Mar 28 2010, 12:34 AM

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QUOTE(kelvin3900 @ Mar 28 2010, 12:33 AM)
white lighter, tat is because ur pad are finishing liao
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sweat.gif so fast finish ar.. i just change few month back
kelvin3900
post Mar 28 2010, 12:35 AM

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em u try go see izzit finishing liao. if not is other problem lo..
cos normally is finishing den need press deeper

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