Lightjunk
Wow...Maglite Digital Camo..did u source that locally? DigiCamo and Copper are quite hard to find, copper is even harder...any chance i can get you to send me a Digi camo if its local source?

Don't know if this is something new to you guys, but i charged 2 x RCR123 and ended up with 1 charged to 4.3v and the other 4.2v, checked it on a multimeter.

Poped it in the flashlight and after a few minutes ran it back on the multimeter and both now run at 3.9v, later did another reading and both read 3.7 on the dot. Seem like the V equalize after running...

I thought the 4.3v would have extra juice than the 4.2v coz it has more V...thats sth new to me...

LightJunk,
I think you should use this,

FM 1C body, Surefire M2-BK head & Nailbender's SST-50 3 level 3-6V drop in runs by 1 AW IMR26500

as your EDC.

Hi guys, not an expert, just like to share what I know.

Li-on battery should not charge above 4.2V, even if 0.5V will cause the life cycle of the battery to be shorten. (LiFePO4 does not have very big effect if 0.5V) If overheat syndrome present, it could be a dangerous sign before it exploded.

So, make sure your multimeter is accurate, if yes, then you have a charger that not very accurate. Does your battery is a protected type? This mean the protection circuit does not work very well, should cut charging before 2.5V. Because over charge may cause the battery to over heat.

Li-on working voltage is 3.7V, meaning when you run your flashlight, it will pulled down to 3.7V working voltage, but when you off the flashlight, it will rebound to above 3.7V (the resting voltage).

Generally when your battery resting voltage reach 3.7V, it means the battery is low in charge, should charge it. But during the usage of battery, it can go as low as 2.75V before the battery run out of charge.

I also notice many protected cell has high rate of self discharge due to the protection circuit working around the clock, even you do not put them in the flashlight.

Personally, I prefer to use LiFePO4 instead of Li-on, because it has less prone to the over charge/discharge, but it has about half the capacity of li-on

The KISS (keep it simple and stupid)
Li-on Battery should never charge to above 4.2V
The working/nominal voltage is 3.7 or 3.6 means then voltage when its under load (using it)
Resting voltage 3.7 or below means it need charging.
3.7-4.2V roughly shows the capacity of charge from 0% to 100%
Run the battery below 2.75V or charge it above the 4.2V will damage the battery. (If you are using protected cell, it should prevent this from happen)
Use a accurate multimeter if you use it for li-on measurement, most of the time you need to calibrate the multimeter. I calibrate mine myself.

Lightjunk this picture is for you, finally able to upload the maglite cap mod

LightJunk

beamshot plz

LightJunk:

Nice collection!     

deviate from topic a little..i should be using special bulb for him/her ( dont know the sex even after living for 17 years ) but i just use regular bulb, as long as it has heat for digestion and to keep warm..i actually got it for free after helping the tawke sell off a dog..it was the size of a 50cent back then..actually the name Flash is not from flashlight, but name was given for it speed...very fast for a turtle 

The tawke told me of one gentleman offering RM3K for a turtle that size ( about the size of a plate ) i was thinking of Triple SSC P7 or even a Surefire..
Back to lights...like Lightjunk i have a few stuff heading my way and parts for Tri P7, i really need this light and hopefully a cut down Maglite from wquiles. Would love to own one of his Mag 1D bore to 4 X AA...so many possibilities..  

http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?t=239209

i see you have a 1D Mag from wquiles....this is the picture..there is a version 2 using less parts, just a note the inside of Maglite tail cap is coated, not conductive..need sanding to make it conduct..

[attachmentid=1397019]
the spring sits deeper inside the cap and the 4 legs complete the Neg- contact at the rim of the cap where the ori spring sits...why 4 legs i hear you ask! 4 is just enough to feed my paranoia...

Please excuse my soldering skills this is just the 1st version prototype..

actually the tail cap spring does more than just that...if its to soft the battery will loose its contact from the top spring, test it by turning it on and taping the tail cap on palm..if its firm it shouldn't blink...this is particularly important on halogen lamps.

i experienced this on my bike lamps as they flicker when i hit a bump..

Springs shouldn't be to firm as too much pressure on the batts can ruin the top and bottom..i have proof of spring effect on battery +/- contacts.

Hello fellow flashaholics,

As per philightsophy, my LF P7 should be arriving tomorrow!! Finally after 3 months of waiting... Tick tock tick tock...

ohhh....i have 2 solutions for you..first magnets on the + of the first cell, 2-solder a the + springs so that it bulges a little but this means taking everything apart..i can make contact with my AW 18650 with the solder trick.

Beamshots I can give... But the iso and the shutter speed thingi on the camera I don even have a clue on that...

I only know how to 'click' and capture the beamshot.. haha

A bit lost here..you mean to say the battery don't make contact to each other when stacked?

Haha can.. I can give you 40 cents.. Btw its not an Ultrafire my friend,
its a Surefire.. Don la call it an Ultrafire... 

How much am I looking at for a set up like tat?

OIC, i was just wondering, i know a many of them have the same design and the lumens promised are never below par, but rarely the promise is kept. I just like the design.

This arrived at 11am today...It's a Seraph P7 M Series Turbo Head powering it with 3x3.7 with tube extension...good news is its the parts used are the same size as Maglite, lens are 52mm, the reflector is one i've seen used on maglite..i will do a little exchange try fit ti the maglite when i get home...nice

[attachmentid=1398331]

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The reflector is very much like Kaidomain's....which is good, i can try different reflector..this light is a flooder...i have to wait till night to post beam shots...

I will edit this post with more full review later tonight..so watch for it..

Oh, oh, oh.  I just received an A2, put in 2 batteries, played with it for a while, then hand ichy opened the head. The pill came out, dropped onto the floow and the bulb broke.       
What should I do?? 
[attachmentid=1399166]
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I think no choice, have to get one from Lumens Factory, USD19++     
Any other ideas? CAn mod or not?   

Thanks LJ...just before leaving i took a few photos of the two lights i take riding..i have no idea the purpose of the bean shot i just took what ever makes sense, i guess its just for comparison...don't know if i did it properly..anyway have a look

[attachmentid=1399123]

Picture shot at 1 meter from wall 1 meter from the floor..i can't pull back any further coz the flood will be to big for the viewfinder about another meter above the LF flood is the ceiling.

Remember this is nothing like what light would behave i the real world. Painted plaster wall is a good flat surface to bounce light. In the jungle or real world dust on leaves and layered background simple absorbers light..most natural things are matte and dull making it harder for light to bounce off.

I will update more soon. Beam shot against real objects to give better sense of the scale of the flood and throw.

Thats Ultrafire yaaa not Surefire

LJ - the Tri Maglite is floody right?

Yes, then I don't have to buy from Lumens Factory.    I'm going back to kuching tomorrow. Maybe we can meet? Bring along a few flashlights?

I would like to feel the following big toys, 

2. FM 1C body, Surefire M2-BK head & Nailbender's SST-50 3 level 3-6V drop in runs by 1 AW IMR26500
3. Surefire M6 Scalloped Bezel (LF IMR-3T & LF IMR-M6 lamps, mdocod 2X18650 & 3X17670 battery holders)
5. Dual bored 2P 18650 Mag 1.25D host & SST-90 DD with d2flex runs by 2 AW IMR18650
4. Surefire 6P bored to fit 18650 cell & Nailbender's Diamond Dragon drop in
Digi Camo Mag 3D Triple P7 DSVNI using 4 AW IMR26500 with Der Witchel P7 driver 4-20V

I will also bring along a few small and big lights? These are some of my small lights,
[attachmentid=1399393]

Some new toys came in for me    More to follow soon.



Two has been modded. Can anyone tell which and what?

Hi guys, finally had time to do some beam shots, though i'm not please with the result specially when the local enforcers gave a quick siren...seem like the locals are quite done looking a the sky today, with eclipse and all...  so i took a quick few shots before they could come back..

I did have time to ream the smooth Maglite reflector to fit the LF P7 , though i really wanted to take bean shot with those too...the Mag lens and reflector can only be held tightly by the Mag bezel because the reflector is thinner at the rim and the lens are thinner too..

[attachmentid=1401081]

..and difference from Ori reflector ( Right )& Smooth Mag reflector ( Left )...

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Beam shots..no detail on ISO, shutter and aperture...quite a scare when my eyes where staring at the sky and jumped by cops..

I call this picture " I SHOT THE SHERIFF "

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Sorry guys i was set to take more..but, well you know why...

2 photos for sharing.
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Most of the big lights belongs to LightJunk    , the small lights belongs to me.  
[attachmentid=1402252]
The M6 are great, well made, looks and feels quality, but I think the M@gs are more interesting especially when you can twist the head. 

If not mistaken LightJunk's the one wearing the red shirt.

Thanks, I did look at this but I think he don't make it anymore. But the good news is I just had an almost 3 hours "gathering" with LightJunk. Just the 2 of us,    but enjoyed talking to each other. Most importantly, he gave me his spare MA02 bulb.   
We did take a few photos of our lights. Will post photos later.