Sealer is the first layer on bare cement plaster as the "innerwear" layer. It won't be suitable for going out, so need to wear "clothes" which is the top coat paint.
So as for your question, don't be a superman (wearing innerwear on top of clothes)
Lol thanks for explaining. So which option i need to do to have good result, since the house already come pre-painted with Jotaplast Max?
a) Jotaplast -> sealer -> easy wash paint ? b) Jotaplast -> easy wash paint (skip sealer, primer, etc)?
Lol thanks for explaining. So which option i need to do to have good result, since the house already come pre-painted with Jotaplast Max?
a) Jotaplast -> sealer -> easy wash paint ? b) Jotaplast -> easy wash paint (skip sealer, primer, etc)?
If the paint is already been there for some time and no defects (Water mark, powdery, bubbles etc), just go ahead with your finishing coat to overcoat on top of the existing finishing.
Lol thanks for explaining. So which option i need to do to have good result, since the house already come pre-painted with Jotaplast Max?
a) Jotaplast -> sealer -> easy wash paint ? b) Jotaplast -> easy wash paint (skip sealer, primer, etc)?
B is the way.
Sealer use for newly completed construction site (after plaster/cement render done) before developer puts a ciplak topcoat on; OR for end user: those problematic area where existing paint bubbling off then need to fix source of water leak first, sand down to plaster [remove all old paint], put sealer, then topcoat.
Hi all, i going to paint a new vacant unit.. Developer use the normal dulux maxlite /a300 matt white for current one from what I heard..
I plan to paint another white layer, any paint should I go and what step should I take? 1.should I just buy any paint and paint over the current developer provided unit? Any recommendation? As I see like over hundred of choice with diff name cracks my head off 2.anyone use spray/hvlp? I saw online it cost like 100-500.. Thinking to buy it and use instead of using those paint brush which use alot of space and tiring. Any comment on this.
Recently, I helped to paint an old low-cost flat for a friend. I used San Cora sealant for the Kitchen, Corridor and Bathroom because in those areas, the paint was peeling off - it was really bad. So, we scrapped whatever could be removed, wiped the walls, waited a week and painted the sealant paint.
My questions is - is it normal for sealant paint not to "even out"? as in, it's very noticeable the areas that are overlapped and the areas that are not.
I'm going to apply undercoat soon - most probably maxilite. Is it advisable to paint 2 coats of undercoat?
Hi all, i going to paint a new vacant unit.. Developer use the normal dulux maxlite /a300 matt white for current one from what I heard..
I plan to paint another white layer, any paint should I go and what step should I take? 1.should I just buy any paint and paint over the current developer provided unit? Any recommendation? As I see like over hundred of choice with diff name cracks my head off 2.anyone use spray/hvlp? I saw online it cost like 100-500.. Thinking to buy it and use instead of using those paint brush which use alot of space and tiring. Any comment on this.
Are you gonna hack in new socket/AC pipe/AC power here and there? Do those wet work first. Then lastly paint. Painting is easy if you have the right tools and a properly sized ladder (not 5 feet nonsense) w.r.t wall height.
How good do you need the paint to be? If good paint for whole apartment circa 1k exclude materials maybe about 200 exclude ladder. Labour your ownself.
QUOTE(Jescon @ Dec 9 2020, 03:17 PM)
Recently, I helped to paint an old low-cost flat for a friend. I used San Cora sealant for the Kitchen, Corridor and Bathroom because in those areas, the paint was peeling off - it was really bad. So, we scrapped whatever could be removed, wiped the walls, waited a week and painted the sealant paint.
My questions is - is it normal for sealant paint not to "even out"? as in, it's very noticeable the areas that are overlapped and the areas that are not.
I'm going to apply undercoat soon - most probably maxilite. Is it advisable to paint 2 coats of undercoat?
This sealer you use, also say primer function? If the sealer also does primer already then you can just put top coat over it. If the sealer never say primer, then just slap on matex or maxilite (personally prefer matex or KCC coverage) cheapo white paint then only do topcoat.
Uh since theres some leaks, wet area and oily area.. The kitchen one..maybe consider using gloss paint if very oily and unvented Also if there is joss stick burning this also cause paint to deteriorate. As for the bathroom.. make sure grout line in the tiles are good else it will still seep water. If the bathroom unventilated, try to put in a ventilation fan. Also consider outdoor paint if its unventilated and smells damp.
This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 10 2020, 12:58 PM
This sealer you use, also say primer function? If the sealer also does primer already then you can just put top coat over it. If the sealer never say primer, then just slap on matex or maxilite (personally prefer matex or KCC coverage) cheapo white paint then only do topcoat.
Uh since theres some leaks, wet area and oily area.. The kitchen one..maybe consider using gloss paint if very oily and unvented Also if there is joss stick burning this also cause paint to deteriorate. As for the bathroom.. make sure grout line in the tiles are good else it will still seep water. If the bathroom unventilated, try to put in a ventilation fan. Also consider outdoor paint if its unventilated and smells damp.
Thanks for the reply. The sealer paint I used just stated sealant (+ alkaline resistant). Yeah, plan to just get maxilite coz it's not my friend's home, he's just renting it. The last tenant was horrid, and owner is like do whatever you want and deduct from the rent. lol
Bathroom is ventilated. The main issue is the kitchen - hmm, I'll consider looking into gloss paint. It will be oily, I guess.
Are you gonna hack in new socket/AC pipe/AC power here and there? Do those wet work first. Then lastly paint. Painting is easy if you have the right tools and a properly sized ladder (not 5 feet nonsense) w.r.t wall height.
How good do you need the paint to be? If good paint for whole apartment circa 1k exclude materials maybe about 200 exclude ladder. Labour your ownself.
Ya already find someone to do hacking for those socket, once they plaster it i will paint.. maybe for aircond i dont care, i just ask them to install aircond after i paint my wall. If not i need to mask the aircond for painting work.
What is proper ladder? haha i have around 5ft ladder.. but in the past i help my friend we used 1 long stick to tie with the roller. I not sure what type of the good paint and price range, my painting should be around 900 sqft interior only. Any advice and recommendation? Paint to thinner ratio is 3:1 ? Paint requirement i think most likely the same for all people? which is glossy smooth and long lasting?
Ya already find someone to do hacking for those socket, once they plaster it i will paint.. maybe for aircond i dont care, i just ask them to install aircond after i paint my wall. If not i need to mask the aircond for painting work.
What is proper ladder? haha i have around 5ft ladder.. but in the past i help my friend we used 1 long stick to tie with the roller. I not sure what type of the good paint and price range, my painting should be around 900 sqft interior only. Any advice and recommendation? Paint to thinner ratio is 3:1 ? Paint requirement i think most likely the same for all people? which is glossy smooth and long lasting?
Some people just use the cheapest available paints Aircond one if conceal pipe (copper and drain) already ready then no need hack. Otherwise same issue also.. u still gotta repaint that trench.
Wall paint two coat at 90:10 (just add a splash of water) will not be runny, if you put too much water the paint will drip everywhere. Elcheapo is super matex - entry level RM35/7L fixed 15 colour Standard custom colour (mix with machine) is around 90-100/5L for Nippon Easywash
Generally, 5L tong will cover two coats undiluted of a long wall (use about 4L+ for one long living room wall of 8m length x 2.4m height), balance can use on smaller wall area with doors and windows.
From experience the legs are stronger than the hands (easier to climb up) and do nicely rather than trying to hold long stick and press into the wall. Small roller easier to use (less splattering). Big roller is used for speed work but splatter more. Prep work like taping up the border area near ceiling and other stuff like door frames using the nippon skyblue colour washi tape is important to achieve nice lines and reduce oops cleanup case.
Some people just use the cheapest available paints Aircond one if conceal pipe (copper and drain) already ready then no need hack. Otherwise same issue also.. u still gotta repaint that trench.
Wall paint two coat at 90:10 (just add a splash of water) will not be runny, if you put too much water the paint will drip everywhere. Elcheapo is super matex - entry level RM35/7L fixed 15 colour Standard custom colour (mix with machine) is around 90-100/5L for Nippon Easywash
Generally, 5L tong will cover two coats undiluted of a long wall (use about 4L+ for one long living room wall of 8m length x 2.4m height), balance can use on smaller wall area with doors and windows.
From experience the legs are stronger than the hands (easier to climb up) and do nicely rather than trying to hold long stick and press into the wall. Small roller easier to use (less splattering). Big roller is used for speed work but splatter more. Prep work like taping up the border area near ceiling and other stuff like door frames using the nippon skyblue colour washi tape is important to achieve nice lines and reduce oops cleanup case.
Those matte type 3x rm per 7litre is what developer provide if not mistaken. I could not find much info on these paint.. How is those RM3x matte compared to those glosy/easy wash which range around 90 to 100+ ? Cleaning easier with the expensive one? my living height its around 3m+ which i think might use more, i will try to get 5l and test..
In my case i no need to get any primer and sealer right? I only need go to choose my top coat, and on the painting day, i use some sponge and wipe the whole current wall incase there is dust and start painting?
my old experience on helping my friend ,small roller is tiring as it takes more time, and i watch some video they mention to use normal brush to paint those edge area and side of the wall as roller unable to cover perfectly. maybe i shall try it..
Those matte type 3x rm per 7litre is what developer provide if not mistaken. I could not find much info on these paint.. How is those RM3x matte compared to those glosy/easy wash which range around 90 to 100+ ? Cleaning easier with the expensive one? my living height its around 3m+ which i think might use more, i will try to get 5l and test..
In my case i no need to get any primer and sealer right? I only need go to choose my top coat, and on the painting day, i use some sponge and wipe the whole current wall incase there is dust and start painting?
my old experience on helping my friend ,small roller is tiring as it takes more time, and i watch some video they mention to use normal brush to paint those edge area and side of the wall as roller unable to cover perfectly. maybe i shall try it..
Decent developer most likely use the cheapest project price maxilite or equivalent. Some crappy project that I went to, they use "fui sui" that is not even paint / some sort of white powder crap that when you put tape for 30 mins and wanna remove the tape, instead of tape only being removed, whole strip of the fui sui fake paint come off. No need to bother gently removing as its an impossible task.
Elcheapo paint I used: the 35/7L fixed colour one use for cheap coverage of things like community hall refurbishment CSR project only in apple green. some no name light yellow to touch up 30 year old house for resale some cheapo gloss paint in brick red to paint over old roof edge (roof tiles) for 15 bucks/1L.. wrong purpose but kinda works "just to sell" whole house repaint (sand down to cement to remove 30 year old paint), cheapo no name sealer, then KCC or matex white 20L tubs
As for personal long term use: To cover over puttied surface use interior sealer to seal the putty, then only put matex over. To cover over developer paint, just use 2 coats of the Easywash custom colour. Easy wash can just wipe with damp cloth to remove dust. If cement dust from drilling - better vacuum the wall and use dry cloth only, otherwise grey cement will stick to the wall. Gloss paint for walls.. ideally used for very well done surface (skim to perfection) or as a last resort in oily kitchen area or for heavy joss stick user (until ceiling all brown condition). Because the gloss really amplify all the imperfection if your wall is not perfectly flat. Hence most people use matte paint for walls.
Small roller give more even coat (in my experience) and cheaper to just throw away the refills. This one doesnt splatter much and technically if the edges taped up nicely can go 99% of the way and the few dots u can brush in or gently use the roller side also can.
Big roller you must buy the correct handle that is centered otherwise you will really have miserable time using it. Also big roller refill cost more. You'll need to spread like 2 rows of newspaper for the floor as it will splatter more.
This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 11 2020, 03:42 AM
Decent developer most likely use the cheapest project price maxilite or equivalent. Some crappy project that I went to, they use "fui sui" that is not even paint / some sort of white powder crap that when you put tape for 30 mins and wanna remove the tape, instead of tape only being removed, whole strip of the fui sui fake paint come off. No need to bother gently removing as its an impossible task.
Elcheapo paint I used: the 35/7L fixed colour one use for cheap coverage of things like community hall refurbishment CSR project only in apple green. some no name light yellow to touch up 30 year old house for resale some cheapo gloss paint in brick red to paint over old roof edge (roof tiles) for 15 bucks/1L.. wrong purpose but kinda works "just to sell" whole house repaint (sand down to cement to remove 30 year old paint), cheapo no name sealer, then KCC or matex white 20L tubs
As for personal long term use: To cover over puttied surface use interior sealer to seal the putty, then only put matex over. To cover over developer paint, just use 2 coats of the Easywash custom colour. Easy wash can just wipe with damp cloth to remove dust. If cement dust from drilling - better vacuum the wall and use dry cloth only, otherwise grey cement will stick to the wall. Gloss paint for walls.. ideally used for very well done surface (skim to perfection) or as a last resort in oily kitchen area or for heavy joss stick user (until ceiling all brown condition). Because the gloss really amplify all the imperfection if your wall is not perfectly flat. Hence most people use matte paint for walls.
Small roller give more even coat (in my experience) and cheaper to just throw away the refills. This one doesnt splatter much and technically if the edges taped up nicely can go 99% of the way and the few dots u can brush in or gently use the roller side also can.
Big roller you must buy the correct handle that is centered otherwise you will really have miserable time using it. Also big roller refill cost more. You'll need to spread like 2 rows of newspaper for the floor as it will splatter more.
sealer is no needed if my surface don't have any hole right? So i just get a matte easy wash type and before paint i just wipe the surface with some damp cloth.
Then for the roller i think i will go for the conventional, previous i considered this below, not sure did anyone use.. but it seems alot bad comment.https://shopee.com.my/Ready-Stock-Smart-Paint-Roller-Set-Clever-Paintbrush-i.27269204.4033654116
sealer is no needed if my surface don't have any hole right? So i just get a matte easy wash type and before paint i just wipe the surface with some damp cloth.
Then for the roller i think i will go for the conventional, previous i considered this below, not sure did anyone use.. but it seems alot bad comment.https://shopee.com.my/Ready-Stock-Smart-Paint-Roller-Set-Clever-Paintbrush-i.27269204.4033654116
Sealer is not needed if you wall paint is still at good condition (No water mark, no bubbles, not chalky, etc...). If there are holes you would have to patch up with skim coat, then apply sealer before painting. Otherwise, just repaint it directly, I would suggest to wipe and let it dry before painting finishing coat.
Roller wise just go to hardware store and get those branded rollers. I normally use Anza and Nippon's paint rollers, consider paying a little premium to avoid other hassle.
sealer is no needed if my surface don't have any hole right? So i just get a matte easy wash type and before paint i just wipe the surface with some damp cloth.
Then for the roller i think i will go for the conventional, previous i considered this below, not sure did anyone use.. but it seems alot bad comment.https://shopee.com.my/Ready-Stock-Smart-Paint-Roller-Set-Clever-Paintbrush-i.27269204.4033654116
Waste money lah I think..the shopee product Paint tray is just a tray..nothing special.
Get a reusable handle that is centered nicely. There are some that for god knows why, the T (hand holding part "I") is more like 60/40 which twist the wrist and is gonna be ^&*^&*^&* to use. The 50-50 balanced one is perfect handle no need branded one, but it must be able to support change of refills.
Then like PaintPals suggest, whole bunch of NEW roller refills will be good. If you want to fill in the corner or border lines, foam pad brushes will be the atas option, else get those A3 size sponges from hardware shop and cut to smaller pieces also can.
No point buying good paint and all, just to ruin it by a recycled-until-hair-matted almost condemned roller refill.
This post has been edited by ceo684: Dec 13 2020, 01:33 AM
Sealer is not needed if you wall paint is still at good condition (No water mark, no bubbles, not chalky, etc...). If there are holes you would have to patch up with skim coat, then apply sealer before painting.
If developer punya paint chalky a bit how? When i swipe with finger, can see white on my finger.
Wipe with dry cotton cloth can? Before re-painting.