strobist is just a method using the flashgun~ mounted or WL, both are considered as a action of strobing.

the room light, well, because it is always on, it bounces all over the wall, making the light goes all direction, causing subject to light up, instead of having a high tension light directional photoes of strobist.

it's just a new age of photography why, directional light make the photo more attractive with diff exposure key on the subject, instead of the Old Boring flat fill flash.

many people gets creative and DIY own light or beauty bowl, ring flash/light, snoot light, dark room, there is even one fellow uses the sunlight as his strobe!

when inside strobist.blogspot, u will notice, instead of making fashion/magazine/model photographs, he creates more of art, pro-folio, or (read 'cookies') create artificial light like 'windows-effect' making the room/bg more interesting for a subject.

This post has been edited by ieR: Nov 30 2009, 12:42 PM

just neutral,... unless u wan to pump up the saturation. (maybe u can use photoshop and use auto-level, see the color diff with ur photo VS auto level one. if there are major diff, what diff, contrast or saturation.) IMHO i think the color a little flat or neutral.

erm, sometimes, the color are affected by the room light. if the photo were to over expose more then suppose to be, the color will turn flat too. and color also affected by cheap filters, lenses and many more factor. maybe u should shoot something directly (out of thier packaging boxes) and set ur metering to spot or center weight. if u been to the alpha basic workshop, u should learned at one point where john says the metering is affected by the color of the subject too, when subject are dark, the camera will try to over expose it to compasate, vice versa. shoot around, sometimes, u will still need photoshop or lightroom to do a little color (darkroom works) to it

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Added on November 30, 2009, 6:30 pmlightning69: depends on ur pocket, ur preference, if u like sigma, go head, if u like tamron, go head,

tamron sp90 are well known for thier money value and good performance. there are better performance marco out there, but they usually cost a Lot more.

not matter of how good is sp90, but the value justified it. i would give a bet that more then 60% of marco user out there uses sp90, go check out blog of marcography, a lot of them use sp90, no matter is sony, canon or nikon users.

This post has been edited by ieR: Nov 30 2009, 06:30 PM

guys, formating the card with ur camera is the best idea

also, use the cable provided by the package > camera. 100% safe

avoid card reader. the plugging and unplug of memory card in and out of the card reader, due to the power (5v) is always on in the cardreader, when u slot it, sometimes it cause a high static discharge dmg to the memory card, thus why, some people will get "format card" when plug in the cardreader (but no problem in camera), worst case is, the card dmg itseld and All Data Erased.

even u insist of using card reader, plug in the Mcard to the reader first, Then only plug the card reader USB in. at least it doesnt cause power surge.

naruto, u will know after 6 month of using it. not reliable as eneloop and imedions

hence, advisable to use the cable provided for the alpha. card reader although rm10 or 30 or 60, its like buying a Risk.... when u got a safe cable to use >.<

yes, cable will use ur batt IF u waste ur time with it, usually i copy then off it. better then risking damaging the CF card, it may not cause big damage, but sooner, where those common 'corrupted' file happens is due from using card reader.

wahh self poison? after the zoo, credit card buy the 70200g?

jimlim, if u wan marco, grab a marco. if u wan zoom, grab a zoom, u cant have it all.

if u are on crop sensor body, u can reconsider 1750 F2.8 tamron

after shoot pls post the pc gal pic here. me from sarawak, cant go, uhuhuhuh

lwliam, i dunno much, but i keep hearing from friend who attend the flash workshop (kuching members), they say they teach more bout 'direct flash uses' then playing around with WL + commander, as not everyone owns 700850900, thus, they teach very basic flash. which my friend quote "its useless" and quote " i(me) teach more WL flashing" which i disagree, i am noob in WL flash.

how bout the kl member who attended the flash workshop? do they teaches a lot?

that's... that's.... mother of all poison....

grats? lol.... 500buck nearer to 70200G.... smell it?

finejave, on my personal preferences, (other may think otherwise)

RPP output - old film photo color.
IDC output - digital color.

i prefer the digital feel of it, but the color is a little too warm, judging from the green ball (the orangey spoiled it.)

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Added on December 2, 2009, 7:30 pmsoony, u have to sacrifice the hood if u plan to get step-up rings. usually step up ring is for people who budget to use CPL/ND on diff filter size.

if it was me, i plan properly, because, not all lens, given shooting situation, will need CPL or ND.

so, plan properly, which lens u REALLY REALLY will NEED in the future (not buy for fun to try for fun,...) then grab a CPL that making sure that lens, will follow u, and shoot most of the photo (like walkaround lens).

and, when u attacH* CPL, you Dont use Hood, coz u need to turn the CPL< with hood, u cant turn the cpl. LOL.

*edit: *#%^@ i always type attack instead of attacH* (u see, i type attack again *#^%&@)

This post has been edited by ieR: Dec 2 2009, 07:30 PM

but at 16mm, i am not sure the step will avoid vignetting or not. 16 is pretty wide.

some spam, weird cloud...

it's rare to capture cloud as bright as this @.@ the cloud looked very scary.

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Added on December 2, 2009, 10:21 pmnow u gave me an idea, the cloud suppose to be blue~ not grey hahaha edit edit

This post has been edited by ieR: Dec 2 2009, 10:21 PM

i love the last pic, sooo funny, made my day

"watchman" from alphanatics / photoborneo.com quote, he uses cz filter for cz1680, and NO vignetting.

cz filter ftw

when the review says bad, mostly it was compare to a better lens, hence, there Are Another Better Lens to worth over that lens. when u get seriously good review, mean, it is on it's own top class with no much to compare. looking around, i think there are few more better choices of lens to fit ur sytle.

wasnt that the point? when i say better mean, same range, but better after the comparison.

50mm and 30mm are totally diff, from the element curves. of coz the 50mm will be sharp all over compare to a wider like 30mm or 20mm. dont matter the lens are super G or normal lens, a good lens will always get better judgements.

nikon? aisks, when they do a review of "A" lens, the review doesnt apply to a "B" lens. u have to get (dig it) for a proper full review on the siggy. (like achew loves to say, dont compare an apple to and orange, now i say, dont take apple review to judge an orange)

i dont really bother with F1.4 lens nowadays, because on my A300, (assume applies to A330 too) the AF sensor arent the best, thus i get inconsistent focus accuracy with F1.4 DoF (or sharpness). thus end up i rather shoot at F2.8 above, hence i choose a zoom F2.8 then F1.4 lens.