Nov 20 2009, 12:48 AM, updated 17y ago
QUOTE
So I always see people asking how to paint the inside of their case and I haven't found a good thread that has the complete guide. So I decided to make one that I think is pretty good.
If for any reason I am wrong, or you have a better technique or whatever, just PM me and I will fix it. Please don't post the changes in here as it might confuse people.
So let's start with the basics
Painting is all in the prep work. If you are a great painter it will not show unless you do proper prep work. You must have a lot of patience and if you do, then your project will turn out much nicer and make you feel good in the end.
Brands of paint I like: RustO-Leum, Krylon, Duplicolor, SEM
Self-etching Primer: This is used on bare metal and it will etch away at the metal to provide better adhesion. It can be found in auto parts stores. This is not required but it does work well on steel cases. If you use self-etching primer, you will also need normal primer as well.
The difference between glossy, satin, matte.
Glossy - Very shiny and reflective of light. Shows fingerprints like crazy, especially black.
Satin - Somewhat glossy and reflects a little light.
Matte - A flat color that is not shiny and does not reflect light very much if any.
Materials Needed:
-220,400,600,800,1000,1500,2000 grit sand papers ($2 per grit). The higher grits (800+) can be found at some hardware stores but usually your best bet it an auto parts store. Make sure you got plenty of this. Make sure the 800-2000 grit sandpaper is dry/wet sandpaper.
-Sanding block ($5). (Not needed but easier to sand evenly)
-3 to 4 cans of primer ($3-6 per can). If you have a really small case 2 cans should be enough but it is better to have extra, so you don't run out while priming.
-3 to 4 cans of paint ($3-8 per can). Again, make sure you have enough so you don't run out while in the middle of putting down a coat.
-3 to 4 cans of clear coat ($3-4 per can). This will create a protective layer over the paint to prevent it from scratching or chipping.
-Rubbing alcohol ($3). This is used to clean off the surface and get rid of oils and dirt, so the primer and paint can stick to the metal better.
-Tack cloth ($3). This is used to get rid of the paint dust after sanding.
-Bucket/bowl and warm water. This is to put the primer and paint cans in to warm up the paint particles to provide a better spray. It is not needed but advised.
-Painter's tape ($5 per roll). 3M makes the blue tape and it works great. It is also better if you get the wide one, so then you don't have to use so many pieces.
-Shop towels ($3 per roll). These are good for wiping down the metal and not leaving a lot of fibers behind
-Compressed air cans ($5 per can)
Okay, so you got your materials. Let's get started.
Procedure:
Prepping
1 - Take apart the case and tape off any parts you do not want to paint.
2 - Take a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper and put it on the sanding block and scuff up the surfaces of the case. You want the surface to feel a little rough, because that means the primer will stick better. However, do not gouge into the metal and try to remove material.
3 - Next take a shop towel and put some rubbing alcohol on it and rub down the case to clean it off. Try to get into every spot and clean it off as much as you can.
4 - Take the air can and spray down the case to get any loose dust out of it
5 - Let the case dry for 15 minutes, and while you are waiting, take your primer and shake it up for about 15 seconds. Then put it in the bucket of hot water for about 5 minutes to warm up the can. Once the can is warm, take it out and dry it off, then shake it up for about 1 minute.
Priming
6 - Put the case in the area you are spraying, make sure it is well ventilated and not dirty. Now, spray the case with the primer. Go in a horizontal sweeping motion from bottom to top. Each sweep should overlap a little bit. Keep the can about 6-12" away from the case and make sure you go evenly. Do not worry if you do not cover the case in 1 coat.
7 - Wait about 2-3 minutes to let it dry, then spray another coat using the same motions. Once the case is fully covered let it dry according to the instructions on the can.
8 - Once it has dried long enough to sand, take it and sand it down LIGHTLY with 400 grit sandpaper. You do not want to remove the primer completely, but just get rid of any unevenness. If you do sand all the way through that is okay.
9 - Once you are done sanding, wipe it down with a shop towel and rubbing alcohol. Then spray it with the compressed air and let it sit for 15 minutes.
10 - Warm up the primer again and shake it up after. Then again, do another couple coats and let it dry.
11 - Once it has dried long enough sand it VERY VERY LIGHTLY with 600 grit sandpaper. You do not want it too smooth that the paint cannot stick.
12 - Once you are done sanding, wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and then spray it with compressed air and let it sit for 15 minutes.
Painting
13 - Warm up your paint in the hot water just like you did the primer.
14 - Spray a coat just how you did the primer, even sweeping motions from bottom to top. Do 1-2 coats, letting each coat dry 2-3 minutes.
15 - Once the case is covered, let the case dry for however long the can says before it can be wet-sanded.
16 - Rub down the case with the tack cloth to remove any extra paint particles
17 - Take your 800 grit sandpaper and get it wet in a bucket of warm water. Sand your case lightly to move some orange peel and any drips. Make sure you are rinsing the sandpaper frequently so the paint does not build up in the sandpaper. If you sand through the paint that is okay, but do NOT sand through the primer or you will have to start over.
18 - Once you have finish sanding, wipe the case down with rubbing alcohol and spray it with compressed air. Let it dry for 15 minutes.
19 - Get your paint warmed up again and spray your case with 1-2 coats in the same sweeping motion and from bottom to top. You must be very careful to not mess up here because you are not sanding after this coat.
20 - Let your case dry however long the can says until it can be clear-coated. Then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and let it dry for 15 minutes.
Clear-coating
21 - Warm up your clear-coat in the warm water and spray it on the exact same way as the paint. Make sure you coat the case well, but not too much.
22 - Once the clear-coat has dried, get your 1000 grit sandpaper.
23 - Wet-sand the case with 1000 grit sand paper very lightly, because you do not want to break through the clear-coat. The goal is to make the clear-coat a smooth surface.
24 - Once you are done sanding, clean it off with rubbing alcohol and spray with compressed air. Let it dry for 15 minutes.
25 - Warm up your clear-coat and spray another coat on the case in the same sweeping pattern. Let it dry the appropriate amount of time.
26 - Get your 1500 grit sandpaper and lightly wet-sand the case.
27 - When you are done sanding, wipe off the case with rubbing alcohol and spray it down with compressed air. Let it dry for 15 minutes.
28 - Warm up your clear-coat and spray the case for the final time and make sure you do an even, light coat.
29 - Let it dry and get your 2000 grit sandpaper.
30 - Wet-sand the case with 2000 grit sandpaper VERY lightly, just so you get a nice smooth surface. Wipe it down with rubbing alcohol when you are done and then spray it with compressed air.
31 - After it has dried, spray one final coat of clear-coat, but make sure it is very light. You will not be sanding after this coat, so you must make sure you don't get any drips, otherwise you will have to sand and put another coat on.
Letting the case dry
32 - Let your case dry inside your house or in a constant temperature area for about 2 weeks.
33 - Once your case has dried for about 2 weeks then you are done and can go ahead and put your parts in.
If you are using self-etching primer as well, just do the same as normal primer, but do it before the normal primer. However, sanding after the self-etching primer goes on is not necessary.
Tips:
-Do not rush, this is a very lengthy process.
-If you use a matte paint, make sure you use a matte or satin clear-coat.
-Glossy paint can sometimes have its looks ruined by clear-coat, so you may want to skip the clear-coat.
-Do not put your parts in early, or you risk scratching the paint up. Paint needs a long time to cure fully and harden.
-If your paint is a dark color, use a dark primer. If the paint is a light color, use a light primer.
-Quick guide for some basic colors:
Black primer-Black, dark red, dark blue, purple, dark green paint
Gray primer-Gray, medium red, medium blue, lavender, medium green paint
White primer-White, light red, light blue, yellow, pink, bright green paint
This is basically a first draft for me and I may be revising it later on a little. However, the instructions will not change much, and if you follow them, you should end up with a great looking interior of your case.
If for any reason I am wrong, or you have a better technique or whatever, just PM me and I will fix it. Please don't post the changes in here as it might confuse people.
So let's start with the basics
Painting is all in the prep work. If you are a great painter it will not show unless you do proper prep work. You must have a lot of patience and if you do, then your project will turn out much nicer and make you feel good in the end.
Brands of paint I like: RustO-Leum, Krylon, Duplicolor, SEM
Self-etching Primer: This is used on bare metal and it will etch away at the metal to provide better adhesion. It can be found in auto parts stores. This is not required but it does work well on steel cases. If you use self-etching primer, you will also need normal primer as well.
The difference between glossy, satin, matte.
Glossy - Very shiny and reflective of light. Shows fingerprints like crazy, especially black.
Satin - Somewhat glossy and reflects a little light.
Matte - A flat color that is not shiny and does not reflect light very much if any.
Materials Needed:
-220,400,600,800,1000,1500,2000 grit sand papers ($2 per grit). The higher grits (800+) can be found at some hardware stores but usually your best bet it an auto parts store. Make sure you got plenty of this. Make sure the 800-2000 grit sandpaper is dry/wet sandpaper.
-Sanding block ($5). (Not needed but easier to sand evenly)
-3 to 4 cans of primer ($3-6 per can). If you have a really small case 2 cans should be enough but it is better to have extra, so you don't run out while priming.
-3 to 4 cans of paint ($3-8 per can). Again, make sure you have enough so you don't run out while in the middle of putting down a coat.
-3 to 4 cans of clear coat ($3-4 per can). This will create a protective layer over the paint to prevent it from scratching or chipping.
-Rubbing alcohol ($3). This is used to clean off the surface and get rid of oils and dirt, so the primer and paint can stick to the metal better.
-Tack cloth ($3). This is used to get rid of the paint dust after sanding.
-Bucket/bowl and warm water. This is to put the primer and paint cans in to warm up the paint particles to provide a better spray. It is not needed but advised.
-Painter's tape ($5 per roll). 3M makes the blue tape and it works great. It is also better if you get the wide one, so then you don't have to use so many pieces.
-Shop towels ($3 per roll). These are good for wiping down the metal and not leaving a lot of fibers behind
-Compressed air cans ($5 per can)
Okay, so you got your materials. Let's get started.
Procedure:
Prepping
1 - Take apart the case and tape off any parts you do not want to paint.
2 - Take a sheet of 220 grit sandpaper and put it on the sanding block and scuff up the surfaces of the case. You want the surface to feel a little rough, because that means the primer will stick better. However, do not gouge into the metal and try to remove material.
3 - Next take a shop towel and put some rubbing alcohol on it and rub down the case to clean it off. Try to get into every spot and clean it off as much as you can.
4 - Take the air can and spray down the case to get any loose dust out of it
5 - Let the case dry for 15 minutes, and while you are waiting, take your primer and shake it up for about 15 seconds. Then put it in the bucket of hot water for about 5 minutes to warm up the can. Once the can is warm, take it out and dry it off, then shake it up for about 1 minute.
Priming
6 - Put the case in the area you are spraying, make sure it is well ventilated and not dirty. Now, spray the case with the primer. Go in a horizontal sweeping motion from bottom to top. Each sweep should overlap a little bit. Keep the can about 6-12" away from the case and make sure you go evenly. Do not worry if you do not cover the case in 1 coat.
7 - Wait about 2-3 minutes to let it dry, then spray another coat using the same motions. Once the case is fully covered let it dry according to the instructions on the can.
8 - Once it has dried long enough to sand, take it and sand it down LIGHTLY with 400 grit sandpaper. You do not want to remove the primer completely, but just get rid of any unevenness. If you do sand all the way through that is okay.
9 - Once you are done sanding, wipe it down with a shop towel and rubbing alcohol. Then spray it with the compressed air and let it sit for 15 minutes.
10 - Warm up the primer again and shake it up after. Then again, do another couple coats and let it dry.
11 - Once it has dried long enough sand it VERY VERY LIGHTLY with 600 grit sandpaper. You do not want it too smooth that the paint cannot stick.
12 - Once you are done sanding, wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and then spray it with compressed air and let it sit for 15 minutes.
Painting
13 - Warm up your paint in the hot water just like you did the primer.
14 - Spray a coat just how you did the primer, even sweeping motions from bottom to top. Do 1-2 coats, letting each coat dry 2-3 minutes.
15 - Once the case is covered, let the case dry for however long the can says before it can be wet-sanded.
16 - Rub down the case with the tack cloth to remove any extra paint particles
17 - Take your 800 grit sandpaper and get it wet in a bucket of warm water. Sand your case lightly to move some orange peel and any drips. Make sure you are rinsing the sandpaper frequently so the paint does not build up in the sandpaper. If you sand through the paint that is okay, but do NOT sand through the primer or you will have to start over.
18 - Once you have finish sanding, wipe the case down with rubbing alcohol and spray it with compressed air. Let it dry for 15 minutes.
19 - Get your paint warmed up again and spray your case with 1-2 coats in the same sweeping motion and from bottom to top. You must be very careful to not mess up here because you are not sanding after this coat.
20 - Let your case dry however long the can says until it can be clear-coated. Then wipe it down with rubbing alcohol and let it dry for 15 minutes.
Clear-coating
21 - Warm up your clear-coat in the warm water and spray it on the exact same way as the paint. Make sure you coat the case well, but not too much.
22 - Once the clear-coat has dried, get your 1000 grit sandpaper.
23 - Wet-sand the case with 1000 grit sand paper very lightly, because you do not want to break through the clear-coat. The goal is to make the clear-coat a smooth surface.
24 - Once you are done sanding, clean it off with rubbing alcohol and spray with compressed air. Let it dry for 15 minutes.
25 - Warm up your clear-coat and spray another coat on the case in the same sweeping pattern. Let it dry the appropriate amount of time.
26 - Get your 1500 grit sandpaper and lightly wet-sand the case.
27 - When you are done sanding, wipe off the case with rubbing alcohol and spray it down with compressed air. Let it dry for 15 minutes.
28 - Warm up your clear-coat and spray the case for the final time and make sure you do an even, light coat.
29 - Let it dry and get your 2000 grit sandpaper.
30 - Wet-sand the case with 2000 grit sandpaper VERY lightly, just so you get a nice smooth surface. Wipe it down with rubbing alcohol when you are done and then spray it with compressed air.
31 - After it has dried, spray one final coat of clear-coat, but make sure it is very light. You will not be sanding after this coat, so you must make sure you don't get any drips, otherwise you will have to sand and put another coat on.
Letting the case dry
32 - Let your case dry inside your house or in a constant temperature area for about 2 weeks.
33 - Once your case has dried for about 2 weeks then you are done and can go ahead and put your parts in.
If you are using self-etching primer as well, just do the same as normal primer, but do it before the normal primer. However, sanding after the self-etching primer goes on is not necessary.
Tips:
-Do not rush, this is a very lengthy process.
-If you use a matte paint, make sure you use a matte or satin clear-coat.
-Glossy paint can sometimes have its looks ruined by clear-coat, so you may want to skip the clear-coat.
-Do not put your parts in early, or you risk scratching the paint up. Paint needs a long time to cure fully and harden.
-If your paint is a dark color, use a dark primer. If the paint is a light color, use a light primer.
-Quick guide for some basic colors:
Black primer-Black, dark red, dark blue, purple, dark green paint
Gray primer-Gray, medium red, medium blue, lavender, medium green paint
White primer-White, light red, light blue, yellow, pink, bright green paint
This is basically a first draft for me and I may be revising it later on a little. However, the instructions will not change much, and if you follow them, you should end up with a great looking interior of your case.
Credit to : noahmateen1234
Original links : http://www.overclock.net/case-mods-general...ting-guide.html
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