well, yes and no at the same time, u see, although the CPL is tinted (ND) but it is at certain angle, when turned on certain angle it allows certain range of light passing (bypass the reflection)...

actually i dunno how to explain...only pandai use wait for albnok sifuuu... lol

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Added on October 19, 2009, 5:50 pmor more like, the CPL is attach, but when turn to 'off' mode, it is darker....

but honest, the picture is darker or brighter is nothing to do with the filter, because the exposure metering is done by the camera, so to have longer shutter or shorter, is up to the camera to decide, and i have totally no idea why the one with CPL on is brighter.

CPL does cut less light into the lens, making it 1 or 2 step slower..., but its ur camera metering AI that decide the setting to shot to get the right exposure.

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Added on October 19, 2009, 5:52 pmso the right answer to CPL cut down light is true, so when u shoot at the same environment, without CPL, u get faster SS, when u shoot with CPL, u get 2-3step slower SS

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 19 2009, 05:52 PM

welcomeee!!! hehehee fast shoot few picture and post it up

clive, bombard him nia all over the forum! let his smell all over the place. he ought to have at least 1 to 1 for first month!!! i have no arguement of how good the focus chip of sony, but day by day, it is getting better. if he still talk rubbish, borrow some A900/A850 let it run on APS-C mode and shoot, it will be very sure that the problem is the lens or the lens, and the lens, or the lens, must be the lens... it canot be the body problem!!! i think all of us can give u a hand by puting him in our signature as blacklist seller, let him canT sell in lyn or alphnatics anymore!

this is about irresposiblility! how could it be? where is our consumer right? let's us march to dispute zone!

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Added on October 19, 2009, 10:22 pmYL selling 1.5k new unit 1 year warranty

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 19 2009, 10:23 PM

its hard to get excate result from just test test for few hours... it take days and tries and events to actually found out the problem on each lens... like me, at first, i tot my 50mm has problem, after sooo many test then only realise is the camera, but funny thing is, the 17-50 dont give me backfocus as much like the 50mm/702104mm does...

usually they say 1855 IQ is better, honestly, it so un-noticeable... because u going to resize the photo anyway to upload to the net. but in term of speed and AF accuracy, the 1855 is much better. but many love the 70mm range. choice is urs.

Option 3: u do the body calibration, if it's not the body calibration problem, he has to pay for the body calibration and teh calibration fee of the lens

i heard of it too, something like if u generate enough traffic or vote or something... like points, enough for to buy another year of subscription

hey, Congrate! and the one happened to be number one, i guess he really deserve it~ since he was so nice to share knowledge with you without branding barrier.

i love that

you can bounce it backwards, since the ceiling is low enough, pointing 15degree backward will remove the eye's shadow

nope, u have to understand, it's actually harder for the metering AI to decide the exposure for 'darker (i hope No Racist issue here)' people... they usually will over expose a little to compasate it, thus you'll see photo a little brighter then usual just to able to see the constrast on the faces, thus also why, orang putih photo will always have nicer background due to faster shutter to compasate thier fair skin~ hence lower exposed background. even brown people will have slightly overexposed. thus where DRO comes in handy, but still, not enough for darker people

funny, is there a problem with the lyn? i cant send PM

pic spam

my dear friend, it seem u dont really understand >.< no matter how well the DRO is.. when the subject is black, when u brighten it, it turn grey, not light black. so will dark skin, it will turn into gooey color before u know it~

if u after a frequen wedding shooter, you will notice it is hard to balance the bride and the groom's cloth, iether the bride gown will overexpose, or the groom's suit will be under, even with the best DRO in the world. u can even notice 60% of freelance wedding shooter always overexposed the bride's gown (they will claim intentionally) but for me, i need the details of lace of the gown, that is beauty.

or say, try ask a dark friend and a fair friend stand beside each other to shoot, see who get overexpose and who get under. actually the darker friend wont be under, because the skin is already dark, and it suppose to be dark.

*this is not a racist comment of skin color. it is just a explaination of how camera interprete skin color. if u feel offended, i apologies.

*edit: for a knowlegde. when u flash a black card, it wont be brighter. the card will obsorb the light, this at best, u get wierd overexposed flare on the black surface. *unless u flash from the side, where it will cast a very soft shadow to create texture of the surface. so, even flash at a dark skin, the skin will absord the light and if there is 'oil' it will turn worst then expected.

to some extend, let's say u fill flash from All direction, when u get the dark skin up to a color level you like, you will realised u overexpose the cloth and objects on the subject.

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 20 2009, 04:31 PM

ermmm they can do it, but not by machine, by human eye and hand... this is what they told me last time i send in my body (i mean camera) to calibrate.

i think, as long as u not shooting marco, subject always cover larger then the focuspoint spot, so i guess u can live with it~




*edit: eh, u buy 2 body la,,... then u can cross repair (like fallout3) lol... u even got spare LCD

ermm we need D3x....

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 20 2009, 04:45 PM

hahaha no la... we all are learning, i am also noob

the DRO in A700 works a little diff with A900/850 and A550, seem like the A550 has much improved algorithm, the older algorithm usually brighten the whole photo rather then just the dark area, try shoot it with manual on tripod, DRO off and on.

well its because prehaps he is trying to brighten(overexpose) the photo so he able to see the faces, but the overexpose caused the overall photo to go brighter as well. (or out of the blue he used spot metering on the face (dark, so the Ai auto meter it to brighter) i mean, that photo, the faces are brighter~ then the rest...

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Added on October 20, 2009, 5:56 pmand, external flash, how well does it works?

my experince,
1. u have to use manual, coz the stupiak A-mode will lock ur apperture(probably u gonna use F5.6 or F8 for group photo), and the flash will lock ur ss at 1/60 at wide, and 1/160 when zoom (bounce) or HSS 1/250 (zoomed/direct/SSS off)

and if the sunlight is strong, it actually required 1/640 at F8. the above 3 setting will Overexposeeee

alright then, let say use manual, u able to adjust F11, 1/160, when ur metering detect the surround is bright enough, the flash will auto adjust to fire at Minimum power. muahahahaha so, faillled again

so to actually have a nice photo at direct under the sun, u have to manual everything, set it right, only u get the real good result

a good trail for u guys who never shoot under direct sun (for fill in the face) go try it! good exp... fast go level up~

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 20 2009, 05:56 PM

Spooky: ahhh Good instruction~~ ~~

but i do it a little diff, i will use Smode lock it to the shutter speed i wanted, check both F on subject and background, see the differences, then only decide the amount of power of flash to use (manual flash thou)

and ND filter blocks out flash power too but it is really useful for F2.8 lenses under direct sun. also, if u notice, our skin absorb most of the light, when u zoomed in, even at F2.8, ur SS is around 1/640 only unlike when u zoomed out (wide) it goes up to 1/4000 maxed. (as it tries to meter the surround, if cloud/sky is in the frame)

*btw, diff body has diff DRO (other brand has other diff Dynamic Range algorithm) prehaps maybe other brand is better, or just that the entry level of sony is crappy.

also, yes u are right what DRO suppose to do, but in this case, the DRO in most camera dont work like what u saided. mmm i need to find the article out, i believe there is one that writes how the DRO process the image. worst to worst, i will spend whole night trying to 'make the graph' how it work.

but generally, DRO brighten up the photo, it does not darken it~

FYI, HSS still trigger flash even at 1/1000SS, but the real max SS for HSS is only 1/250 with SSS off. the 1/160lock is because u turn ur flash to bounce (thank albnok clarify this to me 3 day ago)

so, ur result will be inconsistent passing 1/250, and the light may not even reach the subject properly (making the flash build in metering goes a little haywire, thus inconsistent)

there are people who claim D3x HSS goes up to 1/2000, but the last time i read the instruction book of D3x (go google it) it quote 'HSS support up to 1/250'

But still, YES, it still may trigger pass 1/250...

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 20 2009, 07:12 PM

lol, i also blurred hhahahaa....
1. well i use manual to get 'what i wanted' auto usually give 'acceptable range'

2. err i was talking about metering, not flash >.< the metering on body when u shoot at F2.8 while zoomed in and out.

3. err... it doesnt really prevent blowup, it create highlights. it's the metering that prevent blow out, not DRO.

4. no, its the sync speed, u can shoot 1/1 or 2/1, but ur shutter is too fast that, ur light may never reach the subject,

still, yes u can trigger it, but does ur light reach the subject and bounce into ur sensor or not is another case

thus generally they(manufacturer) claim the hss work best at 1/250 max. imagine u put ur flash 5 metre away from subject, shoot at 1/1000, and test it again with 1/250. u'll get what i mean

later i google the working on DRO (or maybe albnok has it~) now need accompany gf to movie... cya

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Added on October 20, 2009, 7:41 pmpixchar sepamm...

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Added on October 20, 2009, 7:43 pmurg, i notice that imageshack.us compress the photo >.< quality drop, what else hosting is good ah? pm me~ i am idiot with webhosting sites.

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 20 2009, 07:43 PM

sigh, i think i made a big issue of the tecnicality of the flash sync.

there is 3 ways to trigger a flash

1. using the mounted hotshoe (or using a wireless trigger mounted)

2. using the sync cable.

3. using the flash offshoe and trigger with optical/infra or radio (if any)
===================================================
1. mounted
i)the mounted, basically when u shoot at direct(90degree for some) when run in manual mode, u can shoot at Any SS.
ii) when bounce(flash is angled), it will normally lock at max 1/160, u still can shoot at slow SS.
iii) HSS is activated full time??? (turning on my camera and flash, funny, last time, it only activate HSS when i turn SS faster then 1/125)
iv) u can iether use auto TTL, or manual power in M mode. but only TTL in all other mode.

2. sync cable, i have no experince with this, i just assume
i) it just send a signal to trigger.
ii) u can iether use auto TTL, or manual power
iii) recommended max HSS speed is 1/250
iv) u still can trigger it as SS 1/4000

3) WL
i) uses optical to trigger. uses infra when in commander mode.
ii) u can iether use auto TTL, or manual power
ii) recommended max HSS speed is 1/250
iii) u still can trigger it as SS 1/4000

why HSS recommend speed at 1/250. it is not declare by me >.< it's quote from the manufacturer. but u still may shoot at higher SS then recommended. why not faster then 1/250?

there are few reason, well, it's called sync speed afterall,... if u sync faster then it recommended, there are chance that the sync are not in snyc, thus fired flash may not able to be capture or work how it suppose to.

when u run at 1/2000, there is possible that the flash bounce from the subject back into the sensor during the half closing of the curtain, hence, ur sensor only capture the last 200/2000 of the shutter, causing u see the capture image is clear on horizontal lines(while the rest of the area is underexpose).

the further away ur flash, the more time it needed to travel, not forgeting, the delay when ur body pop-up fires to trigger the WL flash, or the sync cable mirco delay would cause a small out of sync light. we are talking bout mili to micro seconds here that makes the difference.

its not that u cant run 1/2000 or heck if ur curtain allows, u can run at 1/8000 ss. but that doesnt mean ur flash will travel faster then 1/8000 ss

that's what we call overwrite mode.

there is, maybe... naaa... the problem is not the flash unable to travel into the sensor, but the delay of the circuit board or optical sensor to detect the triggering flash. and the time for the charge to release~ in some episode of (what's that show in discovery channel? that use the RED ONE camera to capture highspeed video?) they show how "long" it actually takes to light up a bulb. not to mention the time it take to discharge the capacitor and the release rate into the bulb itself.

well, it not really the issue of how fast the light travel, but how fast the sync able to go?

the issue is the sync. try create a cheat sheet for urself, shooting something with wireless trigger from different distant, and different power. then u make a sheet/chart to see the diff with each photo. (then share with me, i soo lazy to do, hahahaha)

This post has been edited by ieR: Oct 21 2009, 12:35 AM