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Photography The Sony Alpha Thread V31!, The Orange Legion

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hkhk
post Oct 1 2009, 07:44 PM

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QUOTE(achew @ Oct 1 2009, 06:36 PM)
i hav a hoya pro1D UV...just wondering if i buy another CPL..would it be wasteful...if it can replace my UV straight away..then i shouldnt have bought UV in the first place..
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CPL is normally used to cut the reflection. And it add more contrast when u shooting at blue sky.. U will like the color..
I bought a cheap Tokina CPL.. it's not so good.. My sunglasses give a better color contrast..

I wanted to try something with double CPL.. Hope it can get very very dark according to the theory.

This post has been edited by hkhk: Oct 1 2009, 07:45 PM
hkhk
post Oct 1 2009, 08:12 PM

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QUOTE(laszlo @ Oct 1 2009, 07:57 PM)
55200+raynox VS sp90. how's the difference in IQ for these two eh?
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55200 + Raynox give a better magnification compare to SP90 only right?
Ryzan76's bug's photos was shot with Sp90 + Raynox.
hkhk
post Oct 1 2009, 10:20 PM

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Agree with Albnok, My fren using Tokina 12-24 for nikon most of the time. Never saw him using other lens.
hkhk
post Oct 1 2009, 11:03 PM

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Oh talking about the center AF point. I found out actually it's bigger than the center square? It's about the size of the round circle outside the center square. Is this true? I do this test long time ago..
hkhk
post Oct 2 2009, 09:52 PM

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QUOTE(Uzumaki NaruTo @ Oct 2 2009, 10:55 AM)
One Noob question : Does EV = 0 means the shoot is underexposed a little bit? When i shoot EV=0 and EV=0.3 / 0.7 the results are different (more properly exposed)
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EV=0 is correct exposure if ur subject is 18% gray.
If ur subject is white color, u will get underexpose. It become gray. thus u need maybe +0.3 or +0.7EV to get it white.
If ur subject is black.. u will get overexpose. It become gray also. thus u need to set negative EV to get it black.


Added on October 2, 2009, 9:59 pm
QUOTE(clivengu @ Oct 2 2009, 07:57 PM)
Is the test accurate? aiks.. too bad my printer just out of ink.. cant print out... the test look convincing
hehe let me know if u wan the 1870 to play play first.. is so light. u make me feel wanna go for CZ oso...afterall i do believe the sony + sony lens +  cz = absolute perfect combination....
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I tested mine 1870 on A200 sometime ago. Basically the center word is in focus. but on the real shoot, i still get some BF.
Do appreciate ur 1870. till now i still cannot say my 1680Z is much superior than my 1870.. sigh..

This post has been edited by hkhk: Oct 2 2009, 09:59 PM
hkhk
post Oct 3 2009, 12:39 AM

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QUOTE(Uzumaki NaruTo @ Oct 2 2009, 11:13 PM)
Thanks for the explanation. So it seems that its similar to LX3 too. Need to +0.3 / +0.7 EV to make it actual white.
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A proper camera will try to get the exposure equivalent to 18% gray, it's the standard. So it's should be the same for all the camera.

My indonesian Chinese Fren used to use his skin to gauge the exposure. He say that his skin tone is almost equivalent to 18% Gray. So nowadays I always try to use spot metering at ppl face. Press the AEL on my A200 and snap.
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Any Sifu can tell me How I can get the AEL works when using flash on Aperture mode on A700? When I press the AEL, it always goto Slow Sync, and my photo get overexposed. Thanks

I know that in aperture mode, when flash is ON, the shuttle speed will become at least "1.5*focal length" and the flash power will be determined by the TTL metering. So If I using my A200, A mode, flash ON, maybe at 50mm. When I press the AEL, the shutter speed remain at 1/80s. The only changes is the flash power. But this is not the case when i m using A700. Pressing AEL will become Slow Sync and the shutter speed will decrease to get the correct EV.

This post has been edited by hkhk: Oct 3 2009, 12:46 AM
hkhk
post Oct 3 2009, 03:15 AM

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Thanks albnok.
What if i don;t care about the background. I like to have the AEL without slow sync like I have on A200. Maybe M mode is the only way? What I mean is to use the AEL to change the flash TTL power, rather than the shutters speed.

For example
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


If I shoot like in this photo, most likely it will be under expose as it's metered at the white Color lab coat. Maybe 5% gray or less. I pressed AEL (Slow sync), the shutter speed dropped to 1/6. Too slow for me. To get the face correctly exposed while keeping the shutter speed at 1/60s, i increase the EV compens to ~+1.7EV. The changes would be the flash power.
For A200, maybe I just point at the face, recompose and shoot. My method maybe incorrect..

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