Place it at the root of the SD card drive. The first window upon accessing the drive.

Well actually the UV filter's function has been downgraded to only provide protection. For a compact camera lens, I don't think we ever need one. In the olden film days, UV filter is used to prevent UV exposure onto the film during shooting. UV exposure may cause a cast on your film when you develop it causing washed out colors. UV filter is meant to filter out all the UV rays during film exposure. UV filter is also known as haze filter because they can 'cut through' haze.

However today... with the introduction of digital sensors, it is no longer sensitive to light in the UV band. In fact, the RGB filter can also filter away UV rays. So there's no additional benefit of sticking a UV filter other than to protect the front elements of the lens. Protecting from scratches, damage to front elements, damage to lens coating in the front element and contaminants.

This post has been edited by davidmak: Dec 9 2009, 09:03 AM

Yes, having a UV filter in front is perfect for protecting the front element of the lens. For SLR cameras, these filter help in protecting the lens barrel during a fall. Or bumps. I wonder if anyone of you have seen a SLR lens got caught into a plaster wall kekekeke... The UV filter's rim with those small teeth helped eat into the plaster wall when it was bumped into it. It got momentarily stuck there. Kekekeke...

Essentially a good UV filter should not affect your picture in any way possible. The small difference in light quality that some people notice is due to the quality of coating used. Good UV filters have coating to absorb stray light. As a result you see a slight higher contrast in the pictures you take especially when outdoors.

That depends on the quality of UV filter you're purchasing. Cheap filters (usually with unknown brands) may cause flares due to poor or the lack of coating. Some just slap on a piece of glass and thats it.

Decent ones like Hoya should be fine though I don't expect people to put B+W expensive filters onto a compact camera. But if there's cash, probably no harm doing so.

Yup, very true. Its a micro 4/3 camera so I am incline to think GF-2 may just be around the corner. But the GF-1 is almost perfect to require another model so I'm not sure if this shot was one of those earlier sneak previews.

Regarding the TTL 'disabled' when the flash head is not pointing straight, I think TTL still works. But we should get more information from him as to why he think TTL is 'disabled' in the first place before discussing further.

Yeah, I also don't think GF-1 is meant to replace the LX3. I think LX4 will come a little later because Panasonic is concentrated a lot of attention to this micro 4/3 thing like Olympus. But LX4 or whatever replacements will come eventually. Like you said, the LX-series uses a small sensor format (compact) while the GF-1 uses a larger 4/3. The price too.

So don't worry, LX4 will come one day.

Yup, the focused area seems to be between the word 'O' and 'P'. The reason why both words are in focused is due to the depth of field. You notice that right after the 'M' things begin to soften down. The same goes for '7'.

If the intention of the original poster was to check for front/back focus issues, then this test may not be accurate.

Exposure compensation is a very useful tool for making fine adjustments as a whole without worrying about the corresponding aperture, ISO calculations. This is very useful if you're in A or S modes where you just want to increase/decrease exposure on top of the metered scene. Most camera bodies have exposure compensations in the region of -3 stops to +3 stops with small stepping in between. As a general rule, exposure compensation plays around with the shutter speed. In most situations, increasing exposure compensation by +1 stop results in 1 stop slower shutter speed and vice versa. Also, in most situations the aperture and ISO is kept constant and not adjusted. Depending on the camera and its metering strategies, the resultant shutter speed may be different.

I don't think the Canon 220EX has TTL capabilities with the LX3 because they don't communicate on the same 'language'. So TTL will not work and your camera will not be able to communicate the right parameters to the flash. So the flash would just fire in manual mode or in whatever power set to it. As a result, you may get wrong flash exposures.

The Canon 220EX will still fire its flash because the triggering pin is on a standard position for all manufacturer cameras.

Some nice shots I took in Cherating. Enjoy.

Ruby's Resort, Cherating

Taken with Panasonic DMC-LX3 with Olympus FL50R external flash

Exposure details
Exposure Program: Aperture priority for day shots and Manual for night shots
Aperture: 2.0-8.0
Shutter speed: 1/60-1/80 for night shots, automatic in day shots
ISO: 80-100
Exposure compensation: None
Metering: Mostly matrix/patterned
WB: Auto
AF: Center point