This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:48 PM

Just get those self contained one like Cool IT Domino ALC or Corsair H50 something.

Both reasonably price and perform quite well.

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:48 PM

Looks good, never tested that before. Hence, no comment.

Also, seems to need a lot of work.

You can ask in WC thread within the Cooling and hardmodding section.

Many people has a wrong perception about water cooling that it needs to be maintained, etc. I'm not sure why but it only happens in LY.net because there are people that does not water cool and assumes it has to be maintained then spread the wrong information around

The fact is, no maintenance is needed once you've set it up but maybe topping of water into the reservoir after a few months time (if you consider that as maintenance, lol). It also does not leak if you get the right tubing size for the barbs you're using The Swiftech pumps are also literally silent giving you total silent computing throughout the night You just need to know how to get it running right and nothing will screw up. I'm willing to help anyone that has problems setting up their water cooling rigs.

If you want lots of fun, customization, looks and performance then custom water cooling set is what you'll need. Forget about the Aerocool, Aquagate, H50, etc because those are made to look like water cooling and somewhat only performs more or less like a high end air cooler. Anyway, here's a picture of my Lian Li PC-A77B:





This post has been edited by clawhammer: Aug 27 2009, 12:34 PM

ya... just involve topping up etc... for maintenance i think u only need to add coolant or change coolant for around 1-2 years maybe (depends what coolant you are using and component of your loop), or when you suffer high temp compared previously. (something wrong with the loop) or adding new components(block etc) other than that, there are no point of maintenance. Its almost maintenance free if you setup your loop with correct method and liquid.

In my opinion, water cooling only is troublesome when setting up, after leak test, they are quite hassle free... and the hard work and hassle are worth as after setting up the rig, satisfaction will be there when looking at the temperature and the cool looking of ur wc setup.

id stick to air cooling....

water cooling may have the ooh aah factor for some people...but i personally feel it makes the rig internals look messy even with good cable management.

air cooling with good cable management looks way much better....plus its a whole lot cheaper too


and since TS isnt gonna OC...i dont think theres much of a point spending 600-1k for watercooling.

This post has been edited by mADmAN: Aug 27 2009, 01:03 PM

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:49 PM

Wow! I wish I could have one like yours. I'm thinking of changing to water cooling but my Desktop is just 6 months old and it is still under warranty. My father even bought 3 years warranty for RM150 just to make sure that if anything happens,he don't need to be worry. I'm waiting for my desktop to finish it's warranty than I'll change to water cooling and OC it.

To be honest, I don't really do leak tests either - I'm just too lazy However, I'll make sure all the tubings are fitted well into the barbs and there I go. I'll always be on alert to shutdown the PSU immediately should I find leaks during the first run though.

That's not really true Some people setup water cooling for the looks and fun of it, not necessarily due to overclocking. It's just like why people pimp their car with bodykits when it doesn't even give any performance differences. These are all personal preferences and there's no right or wrong. We just have to understand everyone's got their own way of enjoying what they like to do.

You can get Feser UV Coolant and they aren't conductive It means even if you accidentally leak, you'll be safe. No worries, I can give free consultation without any obligations Sharing is caring.

You won't void your warranty by installing water cooling. Of course if you're a first time user then you will be worried but just take extra precautions and learn how to do it right. Even for my hardwares, I can still RMA them if it gets damaged for whatever reason

Why most custom watercooling system here do not include the GPUs as well?

I mean in LYN at least.

Given that, GPU generate lotsa heat today plus we are in Malaysia.

Ya, cooling the GPU would be ideal but if you go for blocks like Swiftech MCW-60, you'll still need RAM sinks and VRM sinks. Those full covered water blocks on the other hand is very expensive and it only fits certain cards/models. Perhaps that's why people don't want to cool the GPU (lots of additional setup cost involved)

Interesting, I might do that one day when I get enough time and money.

I can't do SLI with my current GPU, looks like it is either watercooling or stock cooling and I hate stock cooling for GPU.

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:50 PM

That's not true and when they say it's non conductive, they mean it Here is the product website for Feser and you can clearly look at their features inclusive of anti-corrosion, non conductive, etc:

http://www.feser-one.com/site/product_info...products_id=255

Of course this is more like for emergency in case it leaks and we should always take full precautionary measures to avoid any spilling/leakage irregardless of what liquid we have in the loop Some normal cheap UV Coolant would cost you around RM50 per 500ml but I can get you the Feser UV Coolant 1 litre for a very good price of RM125. Choice of colour would be up to you

This post has been edited by clawhammer: Aug 27 2009, 03:14 PM

From your experience, how much you need every 2-3 months when refilling?

Also, how long can one bottle of 500ml coolant last for refilling purposes.

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:50 PM

It depends on how big is your loop and it'll normally be less than 1 litre anyhow so you'll have extra lying around just in case The UV properties would fade off after some time so you need to purchase a Feser One UV dye to bring it back but that's a lot cheaper. As to how long you need to fill up water, it's literally very very minimal because when you have a proper reservoir, everything is covered and water does not evaporate so easily.

For me, I only top up once in like 5-6 months and it's probably like 20ml or so?

---

Added on August 27, 2009, 3:19 pmHere's a quick answer to your questions:

1. UV lightings do have a switch to turn it on/off.
2. UV lightings causing cancer? I'm not sure but smoking causes cancer too so ... LOL
3. I can help you mod your side panel for a fee I have done some side panel mod for some forum members. If you want to buy from Lian Li, it'll cost you around RM180 (from local distributor)

This post has been edited by clawhammer: Aug 27 2009, 03:19 PM

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:50 PM

It's exactly the same like any other panel with a side window Here's how mine looks like:

No.

This post has been edited by King Princess™: Aug 27 2009, 03:33 PM

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:50 PM

Yep, you can get a replacement panel with acrylic window but the design is not so nice in my opinion as they've got rivets and the area it opens up might not be what you really want to show



If you mod your side panel, you can still get a full cover replacement panel at the end of the day. They sell both types.

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:51 PM

Any tips for setting a watercooling system for Silverstone TJ10?

Thanks.

You don't have to worry because you're not the one cutting it In fact, you can always get a replacement panel just like the original from Lian Li. Don't worry, there'll always be a workaround

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:51 PM

go for custom kit from mr clawhammer... he got carry d-tek, swiftech, heatkiller components, you can choose what ever water cooling parts with him... looks is about the same as the kit u mention, radiator, block, pump, reservoir.

hmm, tht case only can place top radiator and back at exhaust fan there if u intend to built full internal wc, anyway i think should be no problem for mcr320qp fit onto the top with the holding bracket from silverstone. If mcr320qp cant go in, you can always opt for mcr220qp with mcr120qp on the exhaust back fan there.

there are quite number of tj10 wc built around the web...

Thanks lichyetan

If someone wants to do something funny and performance first, looks second then you can consider this:

haha, saw this in xtremesystem forum sometime ago...

if I need more radiator in future might consider that...

This post has been edited by lichyetan: Aug 27 2009, 05:08 PM

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:51 PM

Reviews aren't sometimes accurate Of course they had it saying that these kits would beat air cooling but some people moved from TRUE and other high end air coolers to it and ended up selling those kits because it's literally the same or worse. Although custom kits costs more, there are still many people going for it because it really gives you that performance and customization.

if one of the hardware fail

i need to empty the water first, rite?

leceh o not?

go for watercooled

@clawhammer

can u list down the parts i need for watercooling n roughly how much will it cost for WC noobie like me

CPU Block: D-Tek Fuzion v2 / Swiftech Apogee GTZ
Radiator : Swiftech MCR220QP or MCR320QP (depends, 2x120mm and 3x120mm) (best bang per buck radiator u have in the market)
Pump: D5 Basic. (MCP655B)
Reservoir: Swiftech Micro Res rev2 or other more expensive reservoir from other brand.

Let mr.clawhammer quote you. estimated to be around rm900 gua... really depends on parts, exchange rate of USD and also kastam diraja malaysia.

i also wanted to do watercool, but havent have fund yet.like custom but the pocket will koyak and koyak..hehehe..

will think about once i have the fund..

clawhammer, i like urs..custom WC?

---

Added on August 28, 2009, 2:56 pmmee too...if can below 1k can aa?

This post has been edited by zoslan: Aug 28 2009, 02:56 PM

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:58 PM

change your heatkiller to HT version cheaper,but get some good rad instead of that..

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:58 PM

brass/copper is fine,

brass/copper with alu results in a battery, the copper and alu will leech each other


those sr1's look like blackice xtreme rebranded

the difference is the fins, BIX for high cfm fan, higher FPI, while SR1 is like those xspc RX series or feser, very low FPI, for slow rpm fans...

The Nirox pump can be bought from fish shops and it costs around RM3x - RM4x

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:57 PM

Anyone know around rm200 water cooling for cpu?

the ever so famous budget aerocool water cooling system (but now quick hard to get liao...) or 2nd hand thermaltake 735 (performance soso...)

if on budget and a easy to manage water cooling, go for corsair H-50, but RM350 (can pawn TRUE)...

To all pros here, i got few ques to ask...
i have a silverstone raven 01 case...
n i would like to go for the cm aquagate max wc
if i buy this EK-Multioption RES 250 rev.2 reservoir n combine it with the cm aquagate max wc kit, is the original pump good enough to support the whole cooling system?
shud i put pump under consideration if i add in this n tat which will pro-long the whole tubing?
enlight me. thx

should be ok.. but i'd rather change it to a better pump.. MCP655 if u have the money.. or MCP355 would do =)

ermm
but this aquagate max fix the pump into the reservoir
doesn't matter if add 1 more pump?

I forgot to ask.

How do you guys cope with condensation?

I believe watercooling doesn't hav any condensation till now..... I think u might be confused with peltier cooling.....

i think aquagate pump can be changed, d-tek db1 is the same size with the original pump, why you need the EK reservoir as the CM kit already got reservoir connected to the pump, or another option is u can take out the reservoir + pump unit, take out the pump and use it together with ur EK reservoir. A wc loop with 2 reservoir is not good, and it hurt performance...

we only have condensation when the inside of the loop (liquid) are cooler than ambient, which in my opinion its impossible as radiator take air that are the same temp as ambient, so the max cooling temp is equal to ambient, it wont go below ambient. unless u put ice pack on the radiator, else there will be no condensation.

for fun n i like the reservoir...XD
then i think i stick to the aquagate max...
thx anyway

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:56 PM

how much does DeepCool KillerWHALE cost nowadays?

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 07:59 PM

Dtek DB-1 compact pump

This is weird and what's the point of only allowing people to flip down but not remove I'm not sure what is the mechanism that allows the flips? We can probably do a mod but if it's too complicated then might as well forget about it. My PC-A77 allows the whole thing to be removed but Lian Li in general aren't that good in quality after all. I still think for the price I pay for, I'm not getting the quality Lian Li I'm supposed to get

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 08:00 PM

Yup, my mobo tray is exactly the same as the ones shown in the photos. I guess you just have to remove the rivets at the bottom and make sure there's some sort of plate holding the tray so you can slide it in.

This post has been edited by Moogle Stiltzkin: Jul 14 2017, 08:00 PM

Hi guys,
i am oso new to this watercooling things...but really interested at coolermaster Aquagate Max, it looks nice.
btw wat case do u sugget to install this watercooling system...how about the perfomance of this aquagate max

The Aquagate Max is a horrid, not even a proper WC kit That's why it's cheap and you can expect it to perform worse than the highest air cooler in the market.