gambateh TS !!
Project: B&W Temjin 07, Watercooled Silvertone TJ-07 in B&W
Project: B&W Temjin 07, Watercooled Silvertone TJ-07 in B&W
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Aug 19 2009, 12:09 AM
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Senior Member
4,196 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
gambateh TS !!
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Aug 19 2009, 09:39 PM
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Senior Member
2,585 posts Joined: Mar 2008 From: Sibu, Sarawak |
do you sand it between 2 aplication?
can you please post the whole process(very detail) of your paint job? like it very very much |
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Aug 20 2009, 12:30 AM
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Junior Member
156 posts Joined: Aug 2007 From: Damansara |
QUOTE(yuktsi14 @ Aug 19 2009, 09:39 PM) do you sand it between 2 aplication? Thanks.can you please post the whole process(very detail) of your paint job? like it very very much Below is what I do: 1) Sanding with 2000 grid sand paper. I use a piece of wood as sand block, and I finish by hand the part not accessible with the sand block. 2) I use an alcohol based cleaner to remove any sanding dust and oil/grease from the surface 3) I apply 3 thin layers of primer, about 10 min interval between each application (3 layers is what it takes so I don't see at all the bare metal) 4) I wait about 30 min after the third layer of primer 5) I apply 5 thin layers of paint , about 10 min intervals between each application 6) I let it dry at least 24 hours before to manipulate it by hand. But you need to count 48 hours to consider fully dry. Note: - I start directly with 2000 grid because I'm painting bare metal. If there was paint, I think you'd need to start with a lower grid (300-400) to remove the paint and then go progressively go higher in the grid to get a smooth surface - If you go for a shiny mirror finish, I think you would need to sand slightly between the primer and the paint, and also after the paint to remove the slight "orange peel" texture due to the spray painting. You would also need to apply a clear coat at the end. Concerning the update on my project, I have sanded and painted more parts today. ![]() ![]() This post has been edited by r4st4m4n: Aug 20 2009, 12:35 AM |
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Aug 20 2009, 03:16 AM
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Senior Member
4,196 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
haha yeap
but actually juz use like 1000grit on primer to get rough surface . actually even using 1000grit oso not really can see wan . den juz spray wif watever color u intend . make sure its very thin layer and apply 3-4 times to get perfectly nice finishing ^^, |
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Aug 20 2009, 04:26 AM
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Junior Member
246 posts Joined: Aug 2008 From: Kuching , sarawak |
Nice work bro..cant wait for more updates...always love TJ07 but not the time to koyak my pocket..hehehhe...one day
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Aug 20 2009, 05:39 AM
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Senior Member
2,458 posts Joined: Apr 2008 From: M A N C A V E |
Wahh good job TS!
luve the fade black colour! |
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Aug 20 2009, 05:41 AM
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Senior Member
4,196 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
its not fade black la .
its matte black or flat black @ hitam mati . |
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Aug 20 2009, 03:39 PM
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Senior Member
2,585 posts Joined: Mar 2008 From: Sibu, Sarawak |
QUOTE(r4st4m4n @ Aug 20 2009, 12:30 AM) Thanks. can i know the color code of your paint and also the brand?Below is what I do: 1) Sanding with 2000 grid sand paper. I use a piece of wood as sand block, and I finish by hand the part not accessible with the sand block. 2) I use an alcohol based cleaner to remove any sanding dust and oil/grease from the surface 3) I apply 3 thin layers of primer, about 10 min interval between each application (3 layers is what it takes so I don't see at all the bare metal) 4) I wait about 30 min after the third layer of primer 5) I apply 5 thin layers of paint , about 10 min intervals between each application 6) I let it dry at least 24 hours before to manipulate it by hand. But you need to count 48 hours to consider fully dry. Note: - I start directly with 2000 grid because I'm painting bare metal. If there was paint, I think you'd need to start with a lower grid (300-400) to remove the paint and then go progressively go higher in the grid to get a smooth surface - If you go for a shiny mirror finish, I think you would need to sand slightly between the primer and the paint, and also after the paint to remove the slight "orange peel" texture due to the spray painting. You would also need to apply a clear coat at the end. Concerning the update on my project, I have sanded and painted more parts today. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « how much is the primer? i saw the primer selling at ACE is very expensive This post has been edited by yuktsi14: Aug 20 2009, 03:40 PM |
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Aug 20 2009, 04:36 PM
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Junior Member
156 posts Joined: Aug 2007 From: Damansara |
Primer: Anchor spray paint no 5" => I was a bit worry at the beginning as it is not written primer on it, the only difference with the gray paint is the code and a "P" next to the code. But it seems to do the trick.
Paint: "Toa spray: flat back (not sure if the code is 29 or 21)" ![]() Each can cost around RM 5-6 Today I did a big mistake though. Yesterday I bought more paint and mistaken the "black" with the "flat black". Result I have to repaint what I did today as I only realized too late, once I started the use the new can I just bought This post has been edited by r4st4m4n: Aug 20 2009, 04:38 PM |
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Aug 20 2009, 04:44 PM
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Junior Member
317 posts Joined: Jan 2009 |
why dont u just throw to a coating shop n get the coating done in a day or 2 with just only under rm200, saving all the complicated work lol
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Aug 20 2009, 04:56 PM
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Junior Member
156 posts Joined: Aug 2007 From: Damansara |
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Aug 20 2009, 05:27 PM
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Senior Member
4,196 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
its a thing called fun n experience rite .
wat's d fun of modding if u let others do it for u . |
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Aug 21 2009, 02:12 AM
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VIP
4,032 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: MSR Headquaters |
TJ07 ????
You got nothing else to do??? |
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Aug 21 2009, 03:38 AM
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Senior Member
4,196 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
wat's wrong wif modding TJ07 ?
i did mine full black interior + laser cut side panel . TS if u want laser cut tell me ^^, |
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Aug 21 2009, 09:35 AM
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VIP
4,032 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: MSR Headquaters |
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Aug 21 2009, 12:22 PM
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Junior Member
156 posts Joined: Aug 2007 From: Damansara |
QUOTE(antonio @ Aug 21 2009, 02:12 AM) Hehe, when I'm not having a satay-TT session with you and the rest of the MSR crew, No. I don't have anything better to do QUOTE(monsh @ Aug 21 2009, 03:38 AM) wat's wrong wif modding TJ07 ? May I know how you painted it ? Yourself or in a shop ? i did mine full black interior + laser cut side panel . TS if u want laser cut tell me ^^, I have painted almost everything I need, except the motherboard tray (I will post pix later). But the motherboard tray is actually chromed, not brushed aluminum. There is another chromed part I have painted which is the PSU bracket, and after checking, the paint chip easily unlike when I paint the brushed aluminum. So now I'm stuck. From what I've read on the Net, I'd need "self etching primer" which is a special primer that reacts with the metal and grip firmly. The problem is last time when I asked 2 - 3 shops about it, I clearly saw that they didn't have a clue as what it is. I tried to look for it on the Internet but could not find any supplier in Malaysia, except for professional stuff where you need to buy 4-5L and need a spray gun :/ Anyone knows where I can find "(self) etching primer" in spray can ? I will try to find that tomorrow, if I can't find it, I might have to go to an auto paint shop and ask them to prime the motherboard tray ... This post has been edited by r4st4m4n: Aug 21 2009, 12:25 PM |
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Aug 21 2009, 02:49 PM
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Senior Member
4,196 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
haha im not sure .
i dont spray everything bro . some of d parts i just use carbon fibre sticker to bring out d details ^^, mobo tray i use carbon fibre sticker . its better cause it looks as if d background is carbon fiber . |
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Aug 21 2009, 03:10 PM
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Junior Member
156 posts Joined: Aug 2007 From: Damansara |
QUOTE(monsh @ Aug 21 2009, 02:49 PM) haha im not sure . I see. Not a bad idea indeed. I might steal your idea if I don't find etching primer i dont spray everything bro . some of d parts i just use carbon fibre sticker to bring out d details ^^, mobo tray i use carbon fibre sticker . its better cause it looks as if d background is carbon fiber . 21 august 2009 So this is what I have been up to this week: ![]() ![]() I have to say I'm quite happy with the result. After my mistake with wrong black yesterday, I just sprayed two coats of "flat black" over the coat of "shiny black" and it did the trick. No need to sand and repaint the middle plate. So too illustrate my problem with the chromed piece, below are some pictures: ![]() ![]() On the left, it is the PSU bracket which was chromed. I tried to scratch the paint with a screwdriver, and it chip very easily as you can see on the picture ... So I am a bit worry for the motherboard tray (picture on the left). The plate where the PCI brackets attached is in brushed aluminum, so no problem. But the motherboard backplate is chromed with a mirror finished. So if I use the same process as PSU bracket, the paint will definitely chip after I slide in/out the tray few time I will try to find a solution to this problem this WE. If I don't, I might just paint the brushed aluminum part and left the chromed as it is so I can continue the build. Once I'll finish the first revision, it give me time to search and find a better solution for revision 2 |
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Aug 21 2009, 04:28 PM
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Senior Member
2,295 posts Joined: Jan 2005 From: Penang |
send the crucial parts go powder coat... lol...
diy is fun, i also diy mine 1/2 way... but due to daily work and only able to paint it in weekend, i decide give up and sent my stacker to powder coat.. in the end, i just paint the mobo tray parts... but the mechanism dont need slide as the stacker tray is screwed onto the casing instead of pulling and pushing... ps: powder coat are stronger and harder to chip off... let the decision to TS, either take the challenge or like me, scared of wasted work if chipped of, decide to sent it to powder coat for the parts that need to take on and off constantly. This post has been edited by lichyetan: Aug 21 2009, 04:31 PM |
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Aug 21 2009, 04:45 PM
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Junior Member
156 posts Joined: Aug 2007 From: Damansara |
QUOTE(lichyetan @ Aug 21 2009, 04:28 PM) send the crucial parts go powder coat... lol... May I know where you did the powder coating ? How much did it cost ?diy is fun, i also diy mine 1/2 way... but due to daily work and only able to paint it in weekend, i decide give up and sent my stacker to powder coat.. in the end, i just paint the mobo tray parts... but the mechanism dont need slide as the stacker tray is screwed onto the casing instead of pulling and pushing... ps: powder coat are stronger and harder to chip off... let the decision to TS, either take the challenge or like me, scared of wasted work if chipped of, decide to sent it to powder coat for the parts that need to take on and off constantly. EDIT: nvm, I found your thread and read the answers. This post has been edited by r4st4m4n: Aug 21 2009, 04:47 PM |
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