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 The Bright Side V2, Night! Lights! Action!

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pseudoblue
post Aug 28 2009, 12:26 AM

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QUOTE(icaruz76 @ Aug 27 2009, 04:02 PM)
just chat with Neo few hrs back..the sst-50 will be driven at 4-4.5A so basically a 1000+ lumens at the emmitter. the sst-90 will be driven at 7A and uses different head from the current Legion II. Price for the sst-50 will be US$248 + US$11 ems to Malaysia. For current user the price will be lower..
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Hey, i've been checking out about these SST emitters, seems to be something really new and goin over 1000+ lumens, current draw is quite high as well. I saw your CPF post.. Legion II gonna be the first to come out with this upgrade? Any beamshots, comparisons, features yet?

other info for those who haven't know abt it yet:
Luminus.com - White LEDs
Olight with SST-90...?

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Aug 28 2009, 12:27 AM
polkiuj
post Aug 28 2009, 09:54 AM

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QUOTE(ArmorFiend @ Aug 27 2009, 04:01 PM)
strinq, i seldom go into CPF coz it loads prett slow.. dunno why but other forums are pretty fast... And yea, i could use the momentary on/off on the EagleTac P100A2, but strobe is more fun ma, kekee...

Polkiuj, ur right..it's 195 lumen instesd of 225.. and since then i have been EDC on P100A2.. Must be a bit blur after came back from watching Laughing Gor:Turning Point..  :>
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Teehee! I haven't really used the P100A2 much. But I tried plenty of it. Everyone was happy with it. Teehee! The knurling is just too awesome!


QUOTE(Nightstalker1993 @ Aug 27 2009, 05:35 PM)
speaking of p100a2, mine broke. haha

in CC now, home internet got problem, can't post any photos.

i think philightsophy got some photos, i'll wait for him to post.

got into a quarrel with my bro, got mad and threw the p100a2 full force onto the ground and the head snapped off.

no worries, according to phil, i'm getting a new head unit under warranty rclxm9.gif thumbup.gif

he told eagletac that i dropped it from 4th floor, yet still can claim warranty. sweat.gif

the part that snapped off is kinda a weak point, once you see the photos, you'll understand.

now i understood why ET made a MkII for the T100c2 with the thicker head unit.
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Erm... you're crazy!! Haha! Post some pics man Philight!! I wanna see what this crazy dude did to the poor ET!! Oh btw, I'm taking deposits for borrowing my light to your parties. After you throw it on the floor how? doh.gif

Great warranty man!! Woot woot!! Cheers to Philightsophy!!


QUOTE(sniper69 @ Aug 27 2009, 10:50 PM)
another member came into my flashlight family blush.gif

Tiablo A10-G
QUOTE
user posted image
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Ooh! Sweet thrower! Yum yum!

This post has been edited by polkiuj: Aug 28 2009, 09:55 AM
icaruz76
post Aug 28 2009, 11:18 AM

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QUOTE(pseudoblue @ Aug 28 2009, 12:26 AM)
Hey, i've been checking out about these SST emitters, seems to be something really new and goin over 1000+ lumens, current draw is quite high as well. I saw your CPF post..  Legion II gonna be the first to come out with this upgrade? Any beamshots, comparisons, features yet?

other info for those who haven't know abt it yet:
Luminus.com - White LEDs
Olight with SST-90...?
*
i think the first production torch with SST led is the Olight M20 Ti(50) and Intimidator(90). Beamshot from Neo prototype SST is not that good. The tint is too cool and blueish..he is trying to find a warmer tint.

BTW i have one D26 SST-50 drop-in coming next week. But this will be driven at half the power approx 2.5A, and according to Nailbender the OTF lumens is around 425-450.
sniper69
post Aug 28 2009, 11:55 AM

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hello all, morning (before it's too late... tongue.gif)

anyway... i just got this new UltraFire charger that charge 18650 batteries... may i know how to know that the battery will fully charge? normally how long it would take to full charge and what if i leave it overnight? does the charger will auto-shut off...?
icaruz76
post Aug 28 2009, 12:05 PM

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QUOTE(sniper69 @ Aug 28 2009, 11:55 AM)
hello all, morning (before it's too late... tongue.gif)

anyway... i just got this new UltraFire charger that charge 18650 batteries... may i know how to know that the battery will fully charge? normally how long it would take to full charge and what if i leave it overnight? does the charger will auto-shut off...?
*
Hi, i too have one of these..fully charge will be indicated by green light..charging time around 3-4 hrs. and please do not leave it overnight because there is no auto shut off..the best method is get yourself a DMM and chk the charging voltage across the two terminals..it should read 4.9-5.2V.
For your 18650..you also should chk the voltage hot off the charger, in case the voltage is above 4.2V..you might be having a defective or older charger.
sniper69
post Aug 28 2009, 12:12 PM

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QUOTE(icaruz76 @ Aug 28 2009, 12:05 PM)
Hi, i too have one of these..fully charge will be indicated by green light..charging time around 3-4 hrs. and please do not leave it overnight because there is no auto shut off..the best method is get yourself a DMM and chk the charging voltage across the two terminals..it should read 4.9-5.2V.
For your 18650..you also should chk the voltage hot off the charger, in case the voltage is above 4.2V..you might be having a defective or older charger.
ahaaaa... thank you for the information

erm... do we have the kind of charger that can leave overnight...?

that DMM, i shall get it A.S.A.P lah like this... sweat.gif
icaruz76
post Aug 28 2009, 12:27 PM

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QUOTE(sniper69 @ Aug 28 2009, 12:12 PM)
ahaaaa... thank you for the information

erm... do we have the kind of charger that can leave overnight...?

that DMM, i shall get it A.S.A.P lah like this... sweat.gif
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sadly there is no overnight charger for this lithium ion/cobalt type of cells. this cell is dangerous if not properly handle. Pls do read the battery guide on CPF proper for better explanation.
pseudoblue
post Aug 28 2009, 01:57 PM

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QUOTE(sniper69 @ Aug 28 2009, 12:12 PM)
ahaaaa... thank you for the information

erm... do we have the kind of charger that can leave overnight...?

that DMM, i shall get it A.S.A.P lah like this... sweat.gif
*

QUOTE(icaruz76 @ Aug 28 2009, 12:27 PM)
sadly there is no overnight charger for this lithium ion/cobalt type of cells. this cell is dangerous if not properly handle. Pls do read the battery guide on CPF proper for better explanation.
*
I have an ultrafire charger and I monitor it when charging, I do not let the green light go on. I have a DMM to test and normally stop below 4.20. Ultrafire Li-ON chargers have trickle charge, quite dangerous!

You can still leave it to charge until the green light comes on, and then remove the batteries immediately from the charger. The voltage might probably be read from around 4.25 which is still okay, leaving the batteries to rest for 15mins+ after charged will have some reduction around 0.01-0.02. I'm abit paranoid and I prefer to charge around 4.20. Trickle charge for long hours (not sure exactly) might leave the batteries at 4.3, which will reduce the lifespan. But it also depends on how depleted the battery is, if fully depleted, I guess it's safe to charge overnight, take about 6 hours. But having it trickle for very long and more than 4.4 voltage can result in a fire, possible explosion.

New Pila chargers have a complete cut off point at somewhere 4.200 when the green light appears. More details discussed at CPF regarding Ultrafire chargers. I'm not sure if there are any dealers for Pila chargers in MY.

For me, I'm still fine with Ultrafire chargers. Once, I set an alarm *2 hours later to get up just to switch off my charger *and pull out battery, then go back to sleep. rclxub.gif

This post has been edited by pseudoblue: Aug 28 2009, 02:08 PM
icaruz76
post Aug 28 2009, 02:53 PM

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QUOTE(pseudoblue @ Aug 28 2009, 01:57 PM)
I

New Pila chargers have a complete cut off point at somewhere 4.200 when the green light appears. More details discussed at CPF regarding Ultrafire chargers. I'm not sure if there are any dealers for Pila chargers in MY.

For me, I'm still fine with Ultrafire chargers. Once, I set an alarm *2 hours later to get up just to switch off my charger *and pull out battery, then go back to sleep.  rclxub.gif
*
oops didn't know Pila charger has auto cutoff. It should have since it cost more than the Ultrafire. BTW i still am not that comfortable to leave the charger overnight ..just follow the Murphy's law...anything that can go wrong,it will with the worse case scenario..so just be extra careful..
pseudoblue
post Aug 28 2009, 03:27 PM

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QUOTE(icaruz76 @ Aug 28 2009, 11:18 AM)
i think the first production torch with SST led is the Olight M20 Ti(50) and Intimidator(90). Beamshot from Neo prototype SST is not that good. The tint is too cool and blueish..he is trying to find a warmer tint.

BTW i have one D26 SST-50 drop-in coming next week. But this will be driven at half the power approx 2.5A, and according to Nailbender the OTF lumens is around 425-450.
*
i guess neo is keeping some secrets still huh with the prototype, its not even in Olight's website... yet. Neo might have gotten the 6500K from luminus original spec, hence the blueish tint? It's not gonna be popular with blueish tint yea...

MCE cool white is more pleasant, however with same current draw at 2.5A it's giving 600+ lumens, more than SST. I did thought why in the world ppl would bother with SST emitters since MCE have higher lumens with the same current? But hey, it dawned on me the reason is that SST emmiters were underdriven, MCE were overdriven! doh.gif

The SST seems to be, were meant to draw higher current for more lumens, and possible lesser heat generation and more tolerant than MCE, well these are my speculation from reading info here and there and from luminus. Both SST and MCE has a juncton heat max at 150 degrees, but SST max draw at 9A, MCE at 700mA. Although lumines say it ranges from 1A - 13A. But flashlight manufacturers have taken MCE over 2-3A without any problems with sufficient heat sinking.. rclxub.gif So, I'm not sure abt the future of luminus, but it seems that flashlights manufacturers might go for bigger battery configuration to give that 9A-13A output from a single die.

Once you get your drop in, do post beamshots yea, is it for your SF? wink.gif
eow1973
post Aug 28 2009, 06:25 PM

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Hi Philightsophy. The dome on my T20C2 emitter came off after I cleaned it too hard.doh.gif Without the dome and the silicone surrounding the die, the light is now giving a yellowish tint. Don't see any significant reduction in brightness and the hotspot appears more centered than before. However, I read somewhere in CPF that without the dome and silicone, air will kill the exposed die. I'm sure the Eagletac warranty does not cover this but if my light finally dies, is there any replacement part that I can buy?

user posted image[/IMG]
user posted image[/IMG]

user posted image[/IMG]

From left: Eagletac T20C2 (used to be Neutral White), Blackhawk Gladius SSCP4, Jetbeam Military
Philightsophy
post Aug 28 2009, 06:55 PM

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QUOTE(eow1973 @ Aug 28 2009, 06:25 PM)
Hi Philightsophy.  The dome on my T20C2 emitter came off after I cleaned it too hard.doh.gif  Without the dome and the silicone surrounding the die, the light is now giving a yellowish tint.  Don't see any significant reduction in brightness and the hotspot appears more centered than before.  However, I read somewhere in CPF that without the dome and silicone, air will kill the exposed die.  I'm sure the Eagletac warranty does not cover this but if my light finally dies, is there any replacement part that I can buy?

user posted image
user posted image

user posted image 

From left: Eagletac T20C2 (used to be Neutral White), Blackhawk Gladius SSCP4, Jetbeam Military
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Hi eow1973,

I have sent an email to ET regarding this matter. In the meantime, I still have a spare T20C2 head if you want to use it first.
Strangely enough, the tint of your T20C2 has turned 'neutral white'. Rather interesting.
polkiuj
post Aug 28 2009, 07:14 PM

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» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

Dude! LED's are not meant to be wiped!! O.o Oh well, now you know. Hope ET makes it well, if not, time to mod! Mwahaha!
pseudoblue
post Aug 28 2009, 07:42 PM

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Hey.. take a closer look at your surrounding LED die and compare it with the pic below from another T20C2, is there some sort of burnt pattern? unsure.gif

QUOTE(eow1973 @ Aug 28 2009, 06:25 PM)
user posted image[/IMG]
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user posted image

eow1973
post Aug 28 2009, 07:52 PM

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Hi, Philightsophy. Thanks for the offer of the spare head. However, I am starting to like this 'mutant' die. Just tested it outside in the dark and throw is still acceptable. Now I know why people go for the warmer tints. You can see vegetation so much better. My only worry is how long the led will last without the protective dome. By the way, without the dome, the smooth reflector produces horrible beam.


Added on August 28, 2009, 8:00 pm
QUOTE(pseudoblue @ Aug 28 2009, 07:42 PM)
Hey.. take a closer look at your surrounding LED die and compare it with the pic below from another T20C2, is there some sort of burnt pattern?  unsure.gif
user posted image
*
No burnt pattern here. Just some silicone debris.

This post has been edited by eow1973: Aug 28 2009, 08:00 PM
pseudoblue
post Aug 28 2009, 08:03 PM

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QUOTE(eow1973 @ Aug 28 2009, 07:52 PM)
No burnt pattern here.  Just some silicone debris.
*
oh phew.. good though smile.gif

The cover or dome suppose to be tough, I've seen vids on how to solder these emitters and they appear to be durable. Did you wipe really hard?
polkiuj
post Aug 28 2009, 10:24 PM

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QUOTE(pseudoblue @ Aug 28 2009, 08:03 PM)
oh phew.. good though smile.gif

The cover or dome suppose to be tough, I've seen vids on how to solder these emitters and they appear to be durable. Did you wipe really hard?
*
The dome is the focusing lens of the LED. It is not meant to be tough. =D
eow1973
post Aug 28 2009, 10:29 PM

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QUOTE(pseudoblue @ Aug 28 2009, 08:03 PM)
oh phew.. good though smile.gif

The cover or dome suppose to be tough, I've seen vids on how to solder these emitters and they appear to be durable. Did you wipe really hard?
*
I believe it was quite hard but partly because I was already frustrated by the off-centered hotspot. Anyway, all is not lost because now I don't have the off-centering hotspot and a more pleasing tint. Maybe the dome was sitting uneven on the die and caused the off-centering. Hope the die does not lose its brightness over time or worse, get burnt out, If it does, then it'll be time get the solder gun out.
Philightsophy
post Aug 28 2009, 11:15 PM

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QUOTE(eow1973 @ Aug 28 2009, 07:52 PM)
Hi, Philightsophy.  Thanks for the offer of the spare head.  However, I am starting to like this 'mutant' die.  Just tested it outside in the dark and throw is still acceptable.  Now I know why people go for the warmer tints.  You can see vegetation so much better.  My only worry is how long the led will last without the protective dome.  By the way, without the dome, the smooth reflector produces horrible beam.
I like neutral white tints smile.gif , and I am not alone on this haha! biggrin.gif
I have a response from ET and they will replace the LED for free when I send the T20C2 head to them on your behalf smile.gif
icaruz76
post Aug 28 2009, 11:29 PM

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QUOTE(pseudoblue @ Aug 28 2009, 03:27 PM)
i guess neo is keeping some secrets still huh with the prototype, its not even in Olight's website... yet. Neo might have gotten the 6500K from luminus original spec, hence the blueish tint? It's not gonna be popular with blueish tint yea...

MCE cool white is more pleasant, however with same current draw at 2.5A it's giving 600+ lumens, more than SST. I did thought why in the world ppl would bother with SST emitters since MCE have higher lumens with the same current? But hey, it dawned on me the reason is that SST emmiters were underdriven, MCE were overdriven! doh.gif

The SST seems to be, were meant to draw higher current for more lumens, and possible lesser heat generation and more tolerant than MCE, well these are my speculation from reading info here and there and from luminus. Both SST and MCE has a juncton heat max at 150 degrees, but SST max draw at 9A, MCE at 700mA. Although lumines say it ranges from 1A - 13A. But flashlight manufacturers have taken MCE over 2-3A without any problems with sufficient heat sinking.. rclxub.gif So, I'm not sure abt the future of luminus, but it seems that flashlights manufacturers might go for bigger battery configuration to give that 9A-13A output from a single die.

Once you get your drop in, do post beamshots yea, is it for your SF?  wink.gif
*
max current draw for MCE is 2.8A due to the 700mA per die..that is why most of the modders and manufacturers alike push it to the max..just like the Legion II..theoretically it should give an output of around 700-800 lumens emitter wise but the OTF i think for Legion II as tested by MrG using his recalibrated IS its around 640 peak. For the SST-90, as tested by Electrolumens he smoked his 24g wires..thats how high the current draw is.
As tested by Justin Case the obvious max current should be around 7A and this give an output in the range of 1500 Lumens steady for few minutes and only drops a little after 20 mins. This should be a more practical approach and Neo has told me that the new legion II with SST-90 will also draw 7A and uses bigger head.

actually i'm still waiting for the outcome from Mac prototype heatsink for SST-90 on Mag. and with the new introduction of F size LiFepo4 cell from Download i think its going to be very busy modding season come this fall. thumbup.gif

Btw the SST-50 drop-in is for the bored SF 6p from Electronguru.

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