yes of course, moreover i had bought chain sprayer and lube my chain after every wash

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Added on October 24, 2009, 10:34 pm
overhaul at least take 1day and considering to your problem i think you went to a wrong foremen and overhaul your engine will cost more bcoz your ride have many vital prob.. and my friend had the same prob after changing valve, you just have to reset it after 2 weeks..

Ehh Charge arr your bike got makan minyak hitam or not?? because today i go Bee Hock check with him he told me he no use Yaguso block leh he say makan minyak hitam leh.... Now he intro me Faito block =.='

The latest batch of Yaguso block sux. Mine is 1st batch, lucky me.
There are 3 main factors in power modification:
1) air
2) fuel
3) ignition

spark plug, CDI and etc is to deal with ignition. Anything to do with ignition is called electrical modification. It only smoothen the power, or increase the torque slightly.

mechanical mod is something to do with air and fuel. the more air and fuel going into the combustion chamber, the more power we got. With limited air and fuel, no matter how good is the ignition, the power is still limited.

That's why I always said, ignition is for final touch up, work on the mechanical first.

My bike never travel long distance, my Yaguso is working well so far.

Big block always eat more petrol, the only option is to ride slow, 80kph and below, and use smaller sprocket like 15-36 to let the engine cruise at lower rpm. I usually travel slow on normal ride, and the the difference by 10 - 20km per full tank from stock.

For everyday usage, stock cam is the best. Most valves and the valve spring cannot take aggressive lift. It is expensive to play the engine stuff, and you must be willing to lose some money in case the modification is a failure.

Haha yar. That 60mm is to give some WoW effects and the stock carb is to retain some of the Original feeling Today first day take my bike still not yet done with the magnifold part yet. So still need to bring back to change magnifold on Monday.

But 1 thing amaze me is, even with 60mm blocks my FC still not very makan Cant really feel any different except more power Will see how the Fc after changing manifold on Monday.

Questions here..Wad is the diff between chain spray lube and WD40?

THe bigger block won't affect much of ur FC if u keep ur carb stock. unless u changed to bigger carb, then i can assure ur u i'll be shock with ur FC...
Please let ur block run-in 1st. after a 1000km or more, then u can pull ur throttle as much as u can. but b4 that, please keep ur throttle low. some of my friends can't resist the power of bigger block, and end up with jammed piston / rod...

Wow... TryX got new engine !

no wonder so syiok wanna go balik pulau, hahaha.
here's the run in technique I use:

1) first 100km, less than 1/4 throttle. Each run at least 15 minutes, and cool down the engine completely before next run. Change EO at 100km.

2) first 300km, less than 1/2 throttle. can pull up to 2/3 max rpm every 3 minutes. Each run at least 20 minutes. Cool down engine completely before next run. Then change EO.

3) first 500km, less than 3/4 throttle. Procedure same like (2). Then change EO.

4) 500km - 1000km. Now you can start full throttle at some random intervals. Of course change EO when u reached 1000km.
Note:
first 1000km recommended to use mineral based EO to run in. Semi synthetic and full synthetic is too smooth to get the engine break-in nicely. Will lose power in future. But if you ady have synthetic oil, then no choice, need to run in slowly liao.

Personal experience, the engine does go very smoothly by breaking in this way, compared to the 'gentle ride for 1000km with good oil' using my stock 135cc.

..*sigh*.. very tempting la block mod. But i hv other project to finish 1st, then only can concentrate on my bike.
Probably early next year. My bike has traveled almost 10 K already since july.. huhuhuu 

this is the 2nd time i've been asking here, seems like nobody can answer this?