Anyone can tell me where can i find a shop in Penang that sell this bike and all the spare parts on this bike? Im interested with the front fender and also the side mirror.. Please help me if anyone know the shop that sell this bike in Penang. That bike is call Nazaria GTR. Thanks in Advanced!!

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go bee hock tak ajak

Ei guys i was shock last few they, i saw a guy holding 2 IRC (Brand New) at trafic light and it is written there RM58!!! Do u believe it???

haha i joking la    . cuz like so long didnt see u d. dunno what u do with ur bike ma. next time we tt u join us la 

I think is 80/90 lo.. Why?? U wan bigger tire?? I tink front 70/90 rear 80/90 for IRC should be ok for cornering d lo i scare bigger tyre will affect on the top speed..

Thanks brother Cheang will go there and ask

ermm for the chain if u dont want adjust so much maybe u can try 428 O Ring chain from RKM or SSS that a very good chains i more than 3 month dint adjust my chain and is still tight on my spocket. That kinda chain is use on big bike so is very strong. I Just lubricate with chain oil from Motul 2 to 3 weeks onced depend on weather. Price range around RM220 - RM260 + spocket. Or Cheaper way is to install Chain tensioner but is not as good as that chain laaaa..... You still have to adjust your chain...

minor mods only mah,
changing my ride's new 'clothes' for incoming Raya

presenting my ride's new outlook,
pls don't flame me for the ugly coverset 

good to see this place is still alive.
and im back online hehe
i heard mr. charge got new mods eh haha

wasup ya'll =) It's been a while ^^

Let me tell you some serious story.

Most foreman will tell you, change to racing CDI, the spark hotter and more accurate at higher rpm.

Yes, it is true. your fuel can have more complete burning ma. More complete burning = more power, more power = more heat.

so piston may have lubang.. The foreman is correct...

but, if your air-fuel mixture is ngam ngam at high rpm, then everything is fine.

In fact, increase air flow without increasing fuel intake even easier to get piston lubang than CDI.

And regarding the CDI, got no prob if ur petrol-air mixture is good. Don't just plug n play. reset ur carb too.
Last time after changing my CDI, the foreman resetting my carb, then he tried running my bike a couple of time before hand it out to me...up untill now no prob with my bike eventhough sometime i push my bike full throttle for a long period of time..

Yea, need to readjust slightly. CDI mod isn't that significant, always go for mechanical mod first.

What i mean actually is resetting the petrol-air mixture..its just same la..
Actually for significant improvement on ur bike, changing engine parts will give the WOW factor...
Changing spark plug, racing coil and CDI will help u to smoothen ur power, which is not so significant for stock engine.
Changing engine block, carburator and cam will give u extra boost. After that, the racing CDI will help u to squeeze more out of ur modified engine.

There are 3 main factors in power modification:
1) air
2) fuel
3) ignition

spark plug, CDI and etc is to deal with ignition. Anything to do with ignition is called electrical modification. It only smoothen the power, or increase the torque slightly.

mechanical mod is something to do with air and fuel. the more air and fuel going into the combustion chamber, the more power we got. With limited air and fuel, no matter how good is the ignition, the power is still limited.

That's why I always said, ignition is for final touch up, work on the mechanical first.

i think better u dont use faito product, i heard its not long lasting and unreliable 
damn man, im using yaguso block as well...how to check if its the first batch? 

take out air filter, change exhaust pipe --> increase air flow
change to racing carburetor and increase mainjet/pilot jet --> increase fuel.

sprocket is the last out of last mod, to match your new powerband to your riding style.

how many month warranty??

good. u? long time din see u d.
my bike ar....like that only la. Still got plan la. hopefully can complete most of it by end of this year 
ur bike? got any plan? 

haha....i have more  freedom to mod now since i change job to town d. so i wont encounter any roadblock that often 
haha do like me last time la, change sprocket + chain, ignition coil, spark plug, etc. and motul eo 

Brother Cheang u thingking to change CDI ma? Im letting go my one. Good Condition !! If interested let me know ba. I give u special special price.

Wow... TryX got new engine !

no wonder so syiok wanna go balik pulau, hahaha.
here's the run in technique I use:

1) first 100km, less than 1/4 throttle. Each run at least 15 minutes, and cool down the engine completely before next run. Change EO at 100km.

2) first 300km, less than 1/2 throttle. can pull up to 2/3 max rpm every 3 minutes. Each run at least 20 minutes. Cool down engine completely before next run. Then change EO.

3) first 500km, less than 3/4 throttle. Procedure same like (2). Then change EO.

4) 500km - 1000km. Now you can start full throttle at some random intervals. Of course change EO when u reached 1000km.
Note:
first 1000km recommended to use mineral based EO to run in. Semi synthetic and full synthetic is too smooth to get the engine break-in nicely. Will lose power in future. But if you ady have synthetic oil, then no choice, need to run in slowly liao.

Personal experience, the engine does go very smoothly by breaking in this way, compared to the 'gentle ride for 1000km with good oil' using my stock 135cc.

If you want original 135cc, easy only. Change camshaft and valve spring.

250 degree is good enough, you'll lose some power at low rpm, but mid to high rpm will scream. This is also a mechanical mod, as it allows more air-fuel going into the engine combustion chamber.

Then increase stock carb mainjet and pilotjet slightly. I think 22.5 PJ and 110 MJ should b fine, need to trial and error a few times to get the best.

Haha Brother Cheang just plug and play nia. But need to open front cover to install laa. If u want install can ask our chief mechanics Charge bro help u ba Coz me sucks in DIY.. If u ask foreman install any foreman u know can install for u. Coz no need setting if use BRT for stock bike.

Haha if change cam and valve spring that is big mod liao He sure recommend Bee Hock de no need ask ler.

New Bee Hock lo. At least among a few shops that I've visited, he has the best workmanship in terms of engine mod.

Ermm me free on Saturday or Sunday. After 5pm. The BRT lastime i buy RM300++

BTW the CDi will automatically reconfigure your firing angle so no need to do any setting of the CDI coz is plug and play. BTW that 15-36 sprocket u sure ma? Coz u use so small sprocket later u loose the fun at the lower rpm since u plan to change your cam as well? I think u add a racing block will be more fun Btw dont forget your exhaust If u dont want too loud just ask him change manifold. Coz stock bike manifold too small =.= feel like tersumbat

@Unclecheang
However changing bigger block still the cheapest method on gaining your performance. maybe u can consider on this cheap mod:

58.5/60mm block + racing cam + rejetting carb + others stock.

i've tried this mod and it boost my bike's performance a lot. eventhough everything else are left stock, but still the performance is up to my expectation. and more important, it is cheap...

Item 3 and 4 no nit to change.
1, 2, 5 is good enough.
and yes, raining zero is right. do the port and polish.

camshaft is a custom made, no brand name.
You just need to tell Bee Hock you want the cam that I am using. (just tell him Chan who ride green LC).
Valve spring is racing bee.
Test the performance first, then only proceed to item 3. Item 4 highly not recommended. It blunts your acceleration.

where u buy ur Yamalube leh ?? i plan 1 buy 1 bottle use to try for break in my bike :)Any plc that sell yamalube in Penang? Any idea?

I think Tuesday ok after 9PM? meet at where leh?

Port n Polish for cylinder head where ur valve located.

8pm I not yet finish work I can go to the kopitiam near your house if after 9pm

it is a 'good to have' modification. port and polish effect is minor one, it just makes ur powerband smoother.