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 LYN Gen2 Club V3, The Gen2 drivers online meeting spot!

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s@ni
post Aug 18 2009, 10:30 AM

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eh mane TS... rasa mcm mau beli large snorkel la.
nak bawak gen2 nih gi snorkelling... laugh.gif laugh.gif

btw, gen2 1.3 auto FC 8.4liter/100km seems normal, ok or worst for all of you?
(highway + normal roads daily)
s@ni
post Aug 18 2009, 01:17 PM

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QUOTE(shazmn @ Aug 18 2009, 11:35 AM)
8.4liter/100km? worse XD
*
ala...serious ke ni? sweat.gif unsure.gif unsure.gif unsure.gif

dah lama x guna proton la.
s@ni
post Aug 18 2009, 02:45 PM

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QUOTE(ahlong @ Aug 18 2009, 02:32 PM)
better change ur car XD
*
doh.gif
s@ni
post Aug 18 2009, 10:50 PM

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i prefer authorized SC leh tongue.gif
cost? i dont know. but you can wait others to reply
s@ni
post Oct 2 2009, 12:36 PM

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QUOTE(shazmn @ Oct 2 2009, 09:36 AM)
pasang gen2 fog lamp at merc la thumbup.gif  thumbup.gif  thumbup.gif
*
merc foglamp oredi powderful liao

oh btw,

those who r interested
http://www.mudah.my/Enjin-satria-neo-cps-c...ete-4017759.htm

implant a cps 1.6 in your car now brows.gif

This post has been edited by s@ni: Oct 2 2009, 12:45 PM
s@ni
post Oct 2 2009, 08:39 PM

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after mod, please show us your gen2 brows.gif
s@ni
post Oct 4 2009, 12:00 AM

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if anybody looking for like nEW / NEW gen2 1.3 auto / mt;

these are your lucky ads:

http://www.mudah.my/Gen2-1.3-AUTO-3993447.htm

http://www.mudah.my/Proton-gen2-1300-manual-3948199.htm
s@ni
post Oct 5 2009, 05:35 PM

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QUOTE(shazmn @ Oct 5 2009, 05:14 PM)
if gen2 owner cum a campro owner doesnt appreciate the engine who else?

too many discouraging words coming...not to mention from proton bashers but owners too? doh.gif

1.3 convert to 1.6 u need crankshaft, conrod, main bearing n conrod bearing...piston use 1.3 far better than 1.6...u can get a 1.3 campro but inside is a 1.6...
*
hmm.gif interesting... so outside still a 1.3 but inside a 1.6
how much does it cost all that? hmm.gif
s@ni
post Oct 6 2009, 02:35 AM

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QUOTE(hazril @ Oct 5 2009, 08:02 PM)
well...camtakpro or what...even 325i kenot potong stendet pasar power gen2....how aahh...??? tongue.gif

p/s:my mum driving somemore wei....
*
bmw tu kasik can kot? hmm.gif
s@ni
post Oct 6 2009, 01:56 PM

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QUOTE(shazmn @ Oct 6 2009, 08:30 AM)
s@ni - the breakdown price should be somewhere to this figure based on 2nd hand price i got in January...some parts may be cheaper n some may be more expensive

1.6 crankshaft 2nd hand - RM600-RM800
1.6 Conrod - RM200-RM300
Main bearing and conrod bearing standard - RM170-RM200
Main bearing and conrod bearing heavy duty ACL - RM300

Labour charge etc i not sure huhu...but if there's anyone interested i could try to get some quotation tongue.gif
*
yes im interested. but lets wait until i'm hired first sweat.gif

no jobs liao laugh.gif doh.gif

QUOTE(hazril @ Oct 6 2009, 08:48 AM)
so far if high i never seen any bmw bawak slow2 punya....
*
what i mean was ; if the driver is an old woman / old uncle
if i have BMW, logically, i wouldnt want to risk my life for a gen2 vroom room sweat.gif
s@ni
post Oct 6 2009, 09:21 PM

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sheeittt!

my gen2 back door now cant close.
how to open door panel?
s@ni
post Oct 6 2009, 09:36 PM

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bro shazmn, u know how to open rear door panel? sweat.gif
s@ni
post Oct 6 2009, 09:49 PM

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skru kat pemegang dan cabut,
butang turun naik lock pintu tu pun dah unscrew
masalahnya taktahu lagi katne nak unscrew supaya rear door panel nih terbukak

ketat macam sialan sad.gif

maybe pemutar turun naik tingkap tu kot? tapi mcm mana nak bukak bendalah tu?

s@ni
post Oct 6 2009, 10:03 PM

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haah 1.3

aku dah cuba sejam..nak buat kuat2 takut ada yg jahanam plaakkk

nih nak try tips ko plak

tapi takde tempat nak pegang utk tarik keluar door panel tu

door panel nih rapat betul dgn pintu sweat.gif
s@ni
post Oct 6 2009, 10:47 PM

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dapat bukak

tapi pemutar tingkap x dpt.

nak guna brut force, aku takut dgn pintu2 tercabut

dahlah aku geram giler tdd


ada satu alur kat tepi pintu tuh untuk masukkan screw driver,
pastuh kire mcm cungkil la...

masalahnya pemutar tingkap nih camne plak vmad.gif mad.gif doh.gif doh.gif


Added on October 6, 2009, 10:48 pmso,conclusion,door panel hanging kat pintu because of that pemutar tingkap

what we call that in english ya

This post has been edited by s@ni: Oct 6 2009, 10:48 PM
s@ni
post Oct 7 2009, 08:25 PM

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stuck i know la sweat.gif

s@ni
post Oct 8 2009, 01:54 AM

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mine already painted by the previous owner, but not the door handles hmm.gif



s@ni
post Oct 9 2009, 02:11 PM

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so now wanna ask u all, what kind of oil u put in your engine?

these r the prices in garage sales

Pennzoil 100% synthetic 5w/40
Rm125/4L

BARDAHL FULLY - SYNTHETIC ENGINE OIL SAE 5W40 API SM/CF
rm78/4L

Castrol Edge 5W-40 Fully Synthetic Engine Oil
RM139/4L

Nasa mineral 5W40
rm125/4L

76 Pure Synthetic 5w40
RM119/1Gal

Idetmisu Extreme Touring 5W40 (Fully Syn)
RM178

Fireguard Fully Synthetic Engine Oil 5W40 SM/CG4 Fully Synt
RM100





so, i think i'm going for the 5w40 bardahl laugh.gif
the cheapest with the same 5w40 hmm.gif
s@ni
post Oct 9 2009, 07:16 PM

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QUOTE(shazmn @ Oct 9 2009, 04:28 PM)
i'm using Marsoil...

i dunno the rating but its the red bottle 3 litres...and its actually for KANCIL...

the rating if not mistaken 20/40 or is it 20./50...mineral...

hahahaha...

anyway use fully synthetic ur engine smoother la nonjaSMS...just that for long distance it is not recommended as the oil is very nipis n scared it'll evaporate into thin air...
*
most probably mineral 20W/40



fully syn too thin for long distance? unsure.gif hmm.gif
if thats the case, gonna need to use semi syn hmm.gif
currently im using semi syn. but dont know what brand. forgot edi. doh.gif doh.gif


Added on October 9, 2009, 7:19 pmfound these myhs:

http://wboil.com/ten-synthetic-myths.html

QUOTE
PARAMETERS OF THE DEBATE

Synthetic lubricants are fuel efficient, extended life lubricants manufactured from select basestocks and special purpose additives. In contrast to petroleum oils which are pumped from the earth and refined, synthetics are custom-designed in the laboratory, with each phase of their molecular construction programmed to produce, in effect, the ideal lubricant.

In responding to objections most commonly raised against synthetics it is important to establish the parameters of the debate. When speaking of synthetic motor oils, this article is defending the synthetic lubricants which have been formulated to meet the performance standards set by the American Petroleum Institute (API). (The first such synthetic motor oil to meet these industry-accepted tests for defining engine oil properties and performance characteristics was AMSOIL 100% Synthetic 10W-40 in 1972.)

Many people with questions about synthetics haven't known where to turn to get correct information. Is it super oil or snake oil? Some enthusiasts will swear that synthetics are capable of raising your specialty car from the dead. On the other hand, the next fellow asserts that synthetics will send your beloved car to an early grave. Where's the truth in all this?

In an effort to set the record straight, we've assembled ten of the more persistent myths about synthetic motor oils to see how they stack up against the facts.

Myth #1: Synthetic motor oils damage seals.

Untrue. It would be foolhardy for lubricant manufacturers to build a product that is incompatible with seals. The composition of seals presents problems that both petroleum oils and synthetics must overcome. Made from elastomers, seals are inherently difficult to standardize.

Ultimately it is the additive mix in the oil that counts. Additives to control seal swell, shrinkage and hardening are required, whether it be a synthetic or petroleum product that is being produced.

Myth #2: Synthetics are too thin to stay in the engine.

Untrue. In order for a lubricant to be classified in any SAE grade (10W-30, 10W-40, etc) it has to meet certain guidelines with regard to viscosity ("thickness").

For example, it makes no difference whether it is 10W-40 petroleum or 10W-40 synthetic, at -25 degrees centigrade (-13F) and 100 degrees centigrade (212 degrees F) that oil has to maintain a standardized viscosity or it can't be rated a 10W-40.

Myth #3: Synthetics cause cars to use more oil.

Untrue. Synthetic motor oils are intended to use in mechanically sound engines, that is, engines that don't leak. In such engines oil consumption will actually be reduced. First, because of the lower volatility of synlubes. Second, because of the better sealing characteristics between piston rings and cylinder walls. And finally, because of the superior oxidation stability (i.e. resistance of synthetics against reacting with oxygen at high temperatures.)

Myth #4: Synthetic lubricants are not compatible with petroleum.

Untrue. The synthesized hydrocarbons, polyalphaolefins, diesters and other materials that form the base stocks of high quality name brand synthetics are fully compatible with petroleum oils. In the old days, some companies used untested ingredients that were not compatible, causing quality synlubes to suffer a bum rap. Fortunately, those days are long gone.

Compatibility is something to keep in mind, however, whether using petroleum oils or synthetics. It is usually best to use the same oil for topping off that you have been running in the engine. That is, it is preferable to not mix your oils, even if it is Valvoline or Quaker State you are using. The reason is this: the functions of additives blended for specific characteristics can be offset when oils with different additive packages are put together. For optimal performance, it is better to use the same oil throughout.

Myth#5: Synthetic lubricants are not readily available.

Untrue. This may have been the case two decades ago when AMSOIL and Mobil1 were the only real choices, but today nearly every major oil company has added a synthetic product to their lines. This in itself is a testament to the value synthetics offer. But, beware, many of the other "syntheitcs" are not true PAO (Polyalphaolefin) syntheitcs (ie: Castrol Syntec, Penzoil, etc...) they are hydroisomerized petroleum oil or an ester based synthetic blend.

Myth #6: Synthetic lubricants produce sludge.

Untrue. In point of fact, synthetic motor oils are more sludge resistant than their petroleum counterparts, resisting the effects of high temperatures and oxidation. In the presence of high temperatures, two things happen. First, an oil's lighter ingredients boil off, making the oil thicker. Second, many of the complex chemicals found naturally in petroleum basestocks begin to react with each other, forming sludges, gums and varnishes. One result is a loss of fluidity at low temperatures, slowing the timely flow of oil to the engine for vital engine protection. Further negative effects of thickened oil include the restriction of oil flow to critical areas, greater wear and loss of fuel economy.

Because of their higher flash points, and their ability to withstand evaporation loss and oxidation, synthetics are much more resistant to sludge development.

Two other causes of sludge - ingested dirt and water dilution - can be a problem in any kind of oil, whether petroleum or synthetic. These are problems with the air filtration system and the cooling system resoectively, not the oil.

Myth #7: Synthetics can't be used with catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

Untrue. There is no difference between synthetic and petroleum oils in regards to these components. Both synthetic and petroleum oils are similar compounds and neither si damaging to catalytic converters or oxygen sensors.

Myth #8: Synthetics void warranties.

Untrue. No major manufacturer of automobiles specifically bans the use of synthetic lubricants. In point of fact, increasing numbers of high performance cars are arriving on the showroom floors with synthetic motor oils as factory fill.

New vehicle warranties are based upon the use of oils meeting specific API Service Classifications (for example SG/CE). Synthetic lubricants which meet current API Service requirements are perfectly suited for use in any vehicle without affecting the validity of the new car warranty. In point of fact, in the over 25 years that AMSOIL Synthetic Lubricants have been used in extended service situations, over billions of miles of actual driving, these oils have not been faulted once for voiding an automaker's warranty.

Myth #9: Synthetics last forever.

Untrue. Although some experts feel that synthetic basestocks themselves can be used forever, it is well known that eventually the additives will falter and cause the oil to require changing. Moisture, fuel dilution and acids (the by-products of combustion) tend to use up additives in an oil, allowing degradation to occur.

However , by "topping off", additives can be replenished. Through good filtration and periodic oil analysis, synthetic motor oils protect an engine for lengths of time far beyond the capability of non-synthetics.

Myth #10: Synthetics are too expensive.

Untrue. Tests and experience have proven that synthetics can greatly extend drain intervals, provide better fuel economy, reduce engine wear and enable vehicles to operate with greater reliability. All these elements combine to make synthetic engine oils more economical that conventional non-synthetics.

In Europe, synthetics have enjoyed increasing acceptance as car buyers look first to performance and long term value rather than initial price. As more sophisticated technology places greater demands on today's motor oils, we will no doubt see an increasing re-evaluation of oil buying habits in this country as well.

CONCLUSIONS

Since their inception, manufacturers of synthetic motor oils have sought to educate the public about the facts regarding synthetics, and the need for consumers to make their lubrication purchasing decisions based on quality rather than price. As was the case with microwave ovens or electric lights, a highly technological improvement must often overcome a fair amount of public skepticism and consumer inertia before it is embraced by the general population.

But the word is getting out as a growing number of motorists worldwide experience the benefits of synthetic lubrication. The wave of the future, in auto lubes, is well under way.


This post has been edited by s@ni: Oct 9 2009, 07:19 PM
s@ni
post Oct 10 2009, 12:51 PM

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bump this club! flex.gif

my spring/absorber too low kot
bumper sure sangkut

sad.gif

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