Jayhan bro is a light master you know hehehe... He's a well known strobist from the other forums Jayhan... nice light setup you have there and good to see you here.

I'm sure it can accommodate better lenses and Olympus is building the Micro Zuiko lens family. This is a new product/family and there's just 2 lens to begin with. Also the Zuiko family has some pretty nice lenses some even rivaling Canon/Nikon's flagship.

But you're right at this moment. F3.5 is not enough for bokeh. Heck some even think F2.8 is not good enough. But I wonder if this can take a Zuiko 14-35mm F2 ED SWD?

This post has been edited by davidmak: Jul 29 2009, 09:01 AM

I believe this is better... I copied my post from Lumix LX3 thread. Bought it for my LX3 and TTL works!

For those who are interested with the Metz Mecablitz 36 AF-4 here are some product information:



Product Name/Model: Metz Mecablitz 36 AF-4O <-- O for Olympus/Panasonic FourThirds
Product Page: HERE
Specification: HERE
Place of purchase: KeyColor Midvalley
Price: RM380 (Cash Price)
Promotion: If you buy this in Midvalley, remember the MasterCard and Midvalley Megasale promotion

If you checkout the photo of this Mecablitz 36 AF-4, the hot shoe locking mechanism (right at the bottom) is a screw down lock type. This is the old version. The new version features a quick release locking mechanism. Yes something like Canon 580EX II but this is more plastic and flimsy. Remember to check the pins and to make sure they match the ones on the Lumix LX3 hotshoe.

Also please avoid this model which is considered old. Its the Metz Mecablitz 36 C-2. This one does not feature TTL but can also do automatic flash exposure. It uses auto-thyristor which can be tricky to use and is more like a 90s film technology. This is the product page for the C-2. CLICK HERE

Here are some of the feature tested:

+ TTL totally works!
+ In-flash body TTL indicator works!
+ Flash compensation works! (via in-camera menu)
+ Flash sync tested until 1/125, 1/200 not yet try
+ Automatic fill-in mode depending on setting
+ Vertical flash bounce
+ Pin to pin compatible
+ Fast locking/unlocking mechanism
+ Serviceable via flashing (future proof)
+ Pretty quick recharge. 3fps no problem
+ Recharge after full blast is fast too

- Manual zoom head (no auto)
- No swivel (horizontal)
- Plastic mount
- IR beam not working (only on camera body)

In conclusion this looks to be a nice external flash for the Lumix LX3. The size isn't really big like the EX580 II (LoL!!!) and it fits the camera just nice. Although it is still not balanced but this is the smallest external flash with head bounce I can find.

This post has been edited by davidmak: Jul 29 2009, 11:21 AM

I mean some... some... hehehe Bokeh depends on subject positioning. A lens at tele and focusing to a close subject with the background far away will also become very blur... Round diaphragms will also give nice bokeh. Optical characteristic will also give out soft focusing which is very pleasing to the eye and dreamy.

The people I know, thinks 2.8 is not blur enough unless you try hard. Like how the picture you show is focused close while background is far far away. Its easy to get a blur background. But the degree of blur is very subjective. Some go to extends of F1.2. You get what I mean?

But bokeh should not be the only thing we should strive for. Not everything must be blur. That is not the only thing in photography. Thats very amateur. Anyone with such a lens can produce such an effect. Proper use of bokeh requires creativity and the use of right equipment. Now that is a difference.

This post has been edited by davidmak: Jul 29 2009, 01:13 PM

Aiyer bro... you misunderstand me lar... I never attack anyone. Don't be so sensitive. I believe our bro here is very understanding. I DID NOT SAY his F2.8 cannot get bokeh. Depending on personal preference and requirement, 2.8 may not be good enough. Some people wanting even 1.2 and lower (if any).

I'm just saying photography is not about pictures of a single object in the frame with the rest of it wasted into bokeh. Thats just one type of photography. Getting this sort of bokeh is so easy if you have the lens to do the job (one with lower F number).

None of these statement attack anyone. Ooh... maybe you're just flaming a bigger flame. Want me to flag you? hehehehehe....

Yes, the Metz Mecablitz 36 is quite widely available and cheap. However, it cannot do swivel.. only vertical bounce. For this reason, one of the members around here suggest the Falcon Eye but availability is scarce. Mecablitz 41 also can swivel but size is big. Falcon Eye is GN30+ with full swivel and bounce. He's still looking for one. Also, I believe its on sale at the garage section. Try a guy named Mitmivec (Garage Sale section). He seem to be able to source a lot of these things.

You can checkout the flash performance over at LX-3 (no other intentions ). I wrote a lengthy recommendation and some test pictures over there. Its page 102.

I was at the Panasonic Eco Life convention at Midvalley Convention Centre this morning and they told me the Lumix GF1 + 20mm F1.7 lens would be RM3299. Something just don't add up here. I was like puzzled because they told me 14-45 kit will not be available. I find it atrocious! How could they not bring in 14-45 kit because thats the basics. If the 20mm costs RM1799, then 3299 for the kit doesn't sound too bad eh?

Ah... that sounds more like it. I would prefer the GF1+20mm though. But at the same time the EP-1's (dual lens kit) pricing is pretty attractive now.

Can tell where we can get it? Hehehehe...

I'm sure those longer range ones will have IS. Maybe not the shorter primes like the 45. By the way, there's not much lens at the moment.

Best is to use the adapter and the older lens for now. IS is not everything, a faster lens is more important. However if you have flash, it doesn't really matter anymore.

Best is to use the histogram to gauge general exposure. Then apply exposure compensation. Then it'll get more consistent exposure. Sometimes the LCD display fools your eyes because it is set too bright. Do this a few rounds and you'll know what are the typical settings and you'll learn to compensate.

The truth is there's a reason why most Panasonics are 'underexposed'. They are done deliberately to preserve detail and prevent highlights from being blown out. With this, you get more headroom for photo editing (with Photoshop for example). You can then adjust the brightness, curve, tone, etc. For most people, this is considered a chore and they want usable JPEGs straight out of the camera. For this, the Olympus EP-1 seems to do a great job. JPEGs are great out of the camera with the 'right exposure'. However some people says that it is dangerously close to overblown highlights.

Yes, lower dynamic range can also cause blown highlights like what happen to my LX3. Which is why I try not to shoot in the bright expose daylight.

Yeah a polarizer. But that means I'll need to add some extension tubes in order to fit a standard filter ring.

Mountable on LX3 without the adapter? I've been stepping aback when it require me to put additional fixture on the camera. I prefer it to be as clean as possible.

Sorry to ask if this is relevant but is E-30 user welcome too?

The LX3 can actually have good image quality even at higher ISOs provided exposure is optimum. If you have an external flash, it'll definitely help out a lot. I've done an ISO comparison with Metz 36 flash and can get acceptable image quality all the way to ISO800.

Regarding apertures, I've always confused myself with the F2-2.8 of LX3. Whether is it effective F2-2.8 for LX3's sensor size (equivalent when compared to 35mm format) or it is actually closer to F3.5, 4 or even higher when compared to 35mm format. Because the LX3's smaller sensor size would be harder to 'make' bokehs than a large sensor size.

However as a general guideline, a larger sensor is the way to go. A larger surface can capture more light than a smaller one. I'm sure everyone knows by now. You'll definitely be able to derive higher shutter speeds. On my LX3, even at F2 @ ISO400, I can only get as much as 1/30sec shutter speed while a proper DSLR with a F2 lens can get upwards of 1/50sec. See the difference? Of course, ignore other conditions for the sake of discussion. Also the resultant shutter depends on a lot of factors like optics, effective aperture, etc.

When it comes to image quality, a lot comes into play. As long as a lens is properly and optimally matched to a sensor, it doesn't really matter what size it should be. We should also talk about resolving power of a lens to a sensor. Obviously with the exception to SNR due to reasons we have previously mentioned above. However, we're talking about LX3 vs the GF1. I think its a no brainer. GF1 for sure.

Updates for Panasonic GF-1 and 5 of its micro four thirds lenses?

Source: DPreview

Ah nevermind... already posted.

This post has been edited by davidmak: Nov 26 2009, 02:53 PM

I think those desperate buyers don't mind buying the demo set. Hehehehe...



This post has been edited by davidmak: Dec 6 2009, 06:26 PM

Guys, this morning I read the Star newspaper and saw the Olympus advertisement. The EP-2 is already advertised to be on sale with the price as low as RM3999 (if I'm not mistaken) for the single lens and electronic viewfinder. However, I doubt that there's stock at the moment. I was at the PC Fair and I asked some questions regarding availability.

The first sale would happen sometime in the mid of this month which is around next week or the week after. So be prepared guys. Also, I tried out the EP-2, doesn't seem too much of a difference for me. I think the noise performance may have improved including the AF performance. The electronic viewfinder was a disappointment though. Refresh rate was lousy and I can noise artifacts even in a brightly lit hall.

It won't affect composition though but it'll confuse you because the color accuracy goes down the drain so you don't have a clue what kind of pictures you're taking until after its taken and displayed on the LCD.

I think you're better off keeping the EP-1 unless you really want the EVF. I think the EP-2's upgrade is extremely incremental and doesn't make it a much better camera than the original EP-1. You could spend more on the lenses if you really want image quality upgrades