i do agree waja cps springs are soft. even comparing with wira its already too soft to my liking. but having said that.. normal 60-70kmh straight road in city is ok. if u wanna corner hard, u have to limit urself to the slower speeds.

wat springs to use then? rydeck on 17" wheels now?

woah.. R3 being rebranded / rebranding others like many rumours around... hehehe

mine also 3krpm = 100kmh. MT waja as well.

zenwarlord... new? sure boh? hehe...

dun kid urself VerM, u can do more stable cornering with the lower profile tyres....

any differentiation to your stock car is always called an upgrade.. hehehe

for me, i just serviced 10k. put in bardahl 5w-30 engine oil. no X1-R this time. and also denso iridium spark plugs. then the normal oil filter + coolant changes. all is good. i'm not expecting any superb improved performance but the iridium did make the high revs more stable. previously the ori spark plugs might be flightly fouling so making the high rev a bit choking.

so far my upgrades:
1) K&N airfilter
2) denso iridium (IT20 for S4PH)
3) soundproof all 4 doors & front fenders (fender DIY)

wishlist:
1) 17" 2nd hand nippon-mali rims + falken 912
2) uprated springs (probably R3 or GAB)
3) Mythology LCP

in-my-dreams wishlist:
1) CPS turbo..

well, i think i'm getting a bit too far out but its nice to just share with follow CPSers.

p.s. let the poisons begin!!

ezwan,

there are like 3 bolts hidden on the most front side of the fender. there is a 10mm bolt that is super tight. you will need a round spanner ( i dunno wat u call it) to remove it nicely.

3 that are visible inside the engine bay right on the sides.

1 bolt underneath the fender. its behind the mudguard.

on the mudguard got like another 3-4 bolts n screws.

then finally there are like 4-5 clips for the 'banana leaf' (the plastic piece tat covers the wheel arch)

all in all, prepare at least 3-4 hrs for first trial.

i did mine without removal of the wheel. removal of wheel will be more ideal becoz it gives you more space to do ur work.

to me, this is an additional soundproof. not really noticeable other than softer tyre noise from the front.

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Added on August 9, 2009, 10:28 amVerM,

55 series to me is the most ideal. not too bumpy, not too hard. i installed falken 912 on my younger bro's wira running on 195/55/15r. nice n comfy. cornering also very nice.

last week, the went into a deep pothole. his rim bengkok 2 pcs (front pcs and rear 1 pcs. its very visible from the outside. taiwan rims wat to do. alignment lari. fix up rm65 x 2 pcs + rm50 balancing/alingment. tyres are still ok. no bengkak no nothing. the repair is very well done.

i drove my boss BMW 255/40/18r. damn heavy like driving lorry. ride is still ok (acceptable for me) coz maybe the suspension is a bit more premium. corners are superbly better (as expected). but 18" prices for the rubbers will be *sweat*. for my own waja, 17" is my most ideal. hehe...

This post has been edited by jctasoga: Aug 9 2009, 10:28 AM

erhm.. okay... u might wanna stash a lot of 100 plus for ur buka puasa time.. hehe..

oh ya, when covering back, please be careful of the alignment with the engine bonnet and the front bumper and the doors. i scared mine on the first try..

materials used : bitumen strips cost abt rm28-30 per roll - can cover 1.5 sides of fender easily. balance i stick at other places. then i top it off with some superlon 10mm thick.

i've also covered the area of the plastic wheel arch (banana leaf) with the superlon & bitumen strips. the chassis i only put bitumen strips just for the fun of it.

take care as there are some areas which you can't stick coz later want to install back the screws will be quite hard.

happy DIY-ing.

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Added on August 9, 2009, 8:30 pmif not mistaken, you can reset by unplugging ur battery for a few hours and then reinstall it back. ur FC will be quite bad for a few days while the ECU relearns and readapts the settings. then again, i would've thought the Siemens ECU will relearn the new settings and adjust accordingly. or is this something much more different? hmm.. hmm.gif

about the jerking, could it be something to do with ur spark plugs or the cables? i know my ori plugs did give me some bad jerks when upshifting at high rpms (4.5krpm onwards). recently changed to denso iridium so its much more better. the plugs are still new on mine so i will review after 5k kms running on it. yours also running on iridium n hppc plug cables rite?

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Added on August 9, 2009, 8:32 pm ur wheels design seems nice. it looks a bit like the ones they have on the GTR35. can you post some pics of the full face shot?

This post has been edited by jctasoga: Aug 9 2009, 08:32 PM

problem is tat the 16" rubbers + rims are so darn expensive. its nearly the same price for a set of 17" rim + tyres.

there was a post a few weeks back saying CPS ecu being swapped due to reliability issues.... wonder if that is true?

make it this way... its a coverup!! an ECU costs a few thousand.. i don't think they will be able to replace that so easily....

there is a conspiracy!!

dun drive so fast.. haha

yes its quite slow these few days.. never mind.. some core members always here...

looking good bro!

can't join TT. batu pahat super far... 3 hrs drive T.T

i will TT with you guys mentally enjoy ur weekend guys!

time to upgrade to better brake pads.

wats the odometer? using ori brake pads? highly likely uneven disc rotor like the others mentioned.

woah.. go for bendix titanium la.. rm95 in the forum for rear and rm115 for front.

mine rm80 can go until 480kms waja cps MT. full city driving. on the highway full time is about 550kms for the same price (keeping to speed limit).

K&N drop in is ok. from what I felt (sorry no data to proof), the intake is better at high rpm. less choking. its even better and more smooth after installation of iridium denso during my 10k service. all these does not increase performance. its just smoother revs n less choking on ur engine.

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Added on August 15, 2009, 9:21 pmrefering back to mrjgx's comments on the auto box not advisable to be rough with it, i think its unacceptable. Even though car parts are not meant to last forever, we as consumer bought the product and expect it to perform at optimum level and won't spoil since it has warranty (if not mistaken its 2 years). Of course, we will have to take care by changing the AT gear oil on schedule and rev only when the engine temp is at operating temperature (warm enough).

adding oil coolers will have advantage of keeping the oil cooled during high speed or in hot weather conditions. it will pro-long the life of AT gear oil but still, change it when its due time.

if we do follow by the book on the manufacturer's advise, we should not be afraid should any claims arises.

its my thoughts above and its really beneficial to know consumer rights. listening to the mechs is ok but know when to draw the line between being smart and being taken for a ride.

This post has been edited by jctasoga: Aug 15 2009, 09:21 PM

now now.. go easy on your wifey... 2 yrs by proton, 3 yrs by P&O is it?

by the way, i just check my power steering oil container. seems quite a bit of sediments inside the filter. my car now only 12k odometer. i think i might change it on my next service. how often do u normally need to change/flush the whole unit? once a year or 30k kms?

P&O is one of the insurance company proton engaged for their warranty use.. if i not mistaken. u should get a mail from them regarding your number of warranty years covered by P&O after proton's one expired.