NA is still the best.. hehe.. but i dun mind low boost turbo just for the fun of it. kekeke

tat is a BIG scoop...

haha.. might be stuck wire somewhere. yes you better go for outside alignment + tyres balancing. i found out my driveshaft rusted and wheel hubs rusted when they took my tyres off while doing balancing.. dang!

i went up to kl yesterday too! but back around 5pm. many cars on the highway... saw a red f430 on highway.. damn fast the pickup.. the engine sound.. superb nice.. wicked!!

I think matspeed only have the matching cams for exhaust only. intake our cps already got hi-cams 'built-in'

some said its due to our power steering bushes that are giving this small issue as well. this is just hearsay but seems logical because the veering left does come back after the alignment has been done. since day one my steering is not straight. it has always been a little to the left. i need to tilt steering to the right to keep the car straight. It seems the rubber holding the power steering rack is not fully holding the rack in place thus there is a small degree of difference. i might change the steering bush to super pro ones when I go down to australia next trip to get a set + all the anti roll bar bushes.. haha.. now cannot go australia becoz of the H1N1 is very rampant 'down under.' cheers.

haha... good luck bro..

rydeck, time to flush engine already... hehe.. make your engine lighter and more oomph!

just came back from camerons.. the road is quite nice to drive using simpang pulai. went to boh tea plantation (very narrow n winding road) / strawberry farm and bought lots of vege + jagung + strawberry + honey. all nice!

its still the same as what mrl mentions. get a simple red+white connector with a 3.5mm jack. i think Iphone uses the same 3.5mm jack too. to select the aux in, just press mode button. and voila.

having said that above, I'm using the original HU. sold it off in a matter of 1 week coz i got an aftermarket HU waiting to be installed. hehe..

---

Added on July 20, 2009, 7:31 pmsphiroth, go for brake pads, then braided brake hoses then finally the x-drilled discs. x-drilled discs doesn't improve stopping distance. If i'm not wrong, it actually wears down the brake pad faster as well because the x-drilled parts are meant to shave off the brake pads to keep it in optimum performance. its also helps to dissipate the heat faster to allow your braking system work longer.

if the above doesn't satisfy your braking experience, then you will need to source for bigger rotors or complete set of braking system.

another option is to improve your master brake pumps as well. that will improve your braking power. well, we have abs so you can upgrade the master brake pump after you have gone to the twin pots.

This post has been edited by jctasoga: Jul 20 2009, 07:31 PM

i think you can buy the taiwan made ones, heat up the glass then remove it and replace on your ori HID light. or buy from the online forum for those upgrading to better headlights. this is a cost saving method.

oh ya.. dun forget to smoke it or bling bling it with angel eyes while you are operating the headlights.... hehehe

erhm.. may i ask if yours is the new cps with the hid light?

the reason i ask is becoz u said the glass area is broken only. the rest of the unit is ok (i assume) so tats why i recommend you to get the taiwan made ones then remove the glass to replace your ori headlight.

price wise i got no idea how much is it. really sorry. its just a suggestion only..

its quite probable that she is unlucky that the fire started.

btw, today drive my boss new 525 sport bmw... damn stable. heads up display is a nice feature. 18" and 40 series tyres are a pain to drive... hard to turn the steering wheels.

huh?? u sure the fuel rail is plastic?! impossible la... only the wirings are covered with plastic i think... fuel rail needs to hold up the fuel pressure inside right? plastic how to hold the fuel pressure?

i do agree campro engines are a hot lot...

most proton engines have batteries inside the engine compartment. mercs have theirs in the rear boot.

body roll reduction by:
1) using stiffer springs.
2) lowering the car
3) harder absorber
4) thicker anti roll bar (front n rear)
5) thinner wall tyres (40 series for example)

however, the cons will be
1) harsh ride - very bouncy
2) road hump scraping
3) same as no 1
4) ur car will feel like boat going over uneven surfaces. rocking up n down
5) same as no 1 + cost of tyres due to upsized rims... phew!!

anti roll bars for front n rear can increase at most 1 or 2mm compared to factory settings. if not, u will be driving a sampan if going uneven roads. dun get me wrong... thicker ARB are superb at road holding. it keeps ur wheels firmly on the ground.

This post has been edited by jctasoga: Jul 30 2009, 11:21 PM

taiko eastwest, i'm being a little extreme la... being a noob, i'm sorry if i scared ya.. hehe..

anyway, i would think upgrading the springs will be a better choice for us waja users. i also feel my waja spring are too soft for cornering. even my wira can do and handle better. i myself is looking for a set of normal uprated spring. probably gab in future and also looking at bringing the tyres down to 55 or 50 series to get that decent performance level.

the reality is, you will like the harsh ride for a few months. after tat, u'd wish to go back to stock comfort levels... hehehe.. i'm trying not to poison myself into going down that road (spring + rims + tyres change). however, the poison is strong in this one... hahaha..

---

Added on July 31, 2009, 8:18 pmfollow the recommended 10-30w engine oil. can get 5-30w would be better i think. i'm trying to find 5-30w but very hard around here. might go for motul 5-30w ones.. hehe

This post has been edited by jctasoga: Jul 31 2009, 08:18 PM

is ur car AT or MT? I think its AT since u said stuck at 100kmh. MT impossible stuck... anyhow, go to SC quick quick to check.

---

Added on August 1, 2009, 10:00 pmI would really appreciate the kind gesture man. i wan to evaluate R3 springs. but ur car many mods liao la... later i kena poison kao kao... haha.. tmr going to JB. go see homedec.

This post has been edited by jctasoga: Aug 1 2009, 10:00 PM

i believe our big bro sphiroth is willing to let members tests the r3 spring shocks. you can ask him

i haven driven them yet. but my recent experience with 40 series 18" on a BMW is really discouraging me to go any lower then 45 series profile tyres. they are a mess to drive. too heavy to turn! but the cornering is superb!! got pros n cons.

for me, i will do it like u. change the spring first. then only the shock absorbers. i don't really want lowered springs. jsut normal springs with uprated ones will do but so far... its lowered + uprated.. sigh...

any brand is ok as long as 10-30w for best fuel saving + protection. follow the manufacturer required specs.

should be ok naikon. eneos is a reputable brand in japan.

---

Added on August 4, 2009, 8:23 pmall the poison are up there. 4 versions of it.

LCP , ACP, high cams exhaust, iridium spark plugs, autofoam, high performance spark plug cables... etc...

lowered springs, R3 bodykit... seems are all essential

---

Added on August 4, 2009, 8:30 pmthere is 10-30 for magnatec? my local shop no sell... sigh.. was browsing around for one.. hard to find any lower than 10-30 or 5-30. price below rm110 la.. hehehe

how much is urs eujinee? the magnatec 10-30

This post has been edited by jctasoga: Aug 4 2009, 08:30 PM

but i do remember seeing magnatec in 10-30w years bck...

see here : http://autofoam.com.my/

---

Added on August 5, 2009, 4:37 pmi think rm70++ from the automotive garage section.

This post has been edited by jctasoga: Aug 5 2009, 04:37 PM