hi, RGV120 owner here. Wanna ask some of your experience. Any modders here?

I'm looking for the bearing numbers in an RG/RGV engine. Anyone knows?

This post has been edited by alexei: Jul 22 2010, 10:29 AM

really senyap... sad.

how long didn't start? I think the 2T filled up the block already.

http://rgv120katalog.blogspot.com/

Go to SYSCAST Sdn Bhd, last time they made racing footrest for RGV.

I just came back from MotoGP using my RGV, but only managed to watch from C3 grandstand.

Fuel consumption on highway, 4.5liter can go 260km at slow speed ~100kmh, about 58 km per liter or 136 mpg.
City riding is 170~180km, about 39 km per liter, or 91 mpg. Check my siggy for fuelly.com stats.

My bike has piston size 0.25 on a standard block. Slight porting on exhaust and standard polishing on intake and transfer ports.
Standard exhaust pipe, unmodified.

Carb setting:
- Standard VM20ss carb with sponge type air filter.
- Pilot air jet 25 (standard jet 17.5 is too rich).
- 2.5 turn open for pilot air screw. Need choke for cold start. Warm/hot start no problem, one kick.
- Main jet standard 90.
- Jet needle at top clip position. There are only 3 positions.
- In short, I'm running lean to rich, from idle to WOT throttle position.

Others:
- Use palm oil 2T (RM2.50 per 1kg packet). Standard 2T setting, no extra smoke. 1 liter per 1000~1100 km of city riding.
- Use 75W-90 gear oil, various brands.
- Standard NGK BP8ES spark plug.
- Racing boy sport rims, size 1.6 front and 1.8 rear.
- Tubeless tyres, 70/90 and 80/90.

Riding experience:
- Idle is steady. Off idle response is good.
- Top speed on meter, 160kmh, but cruising easy at 110~140kmh at 1/4 throttle position.
- At 6th gear, if I go to 90kmh, difficult to cruise as the bike will jerk. This is normal IMO, caused by free-play in the rear axle shaft resonating with the engine RPM and bike speed. I either have to accelerate, decelerate, or down-shift.
- In gear acceleration to overtake on highway no problem.

This post has been edited by alexei: Oct 15 2013, 12:47 AM

You guys got Facebook account?
Look for "Suzuki Spare Parts Malaysia", direct factory price.
For the meter with RPM, I tried OEM one, the RPM meter is not accurate, once pull throttle, jumps to 10k RPM.

bizzy123sembang here... ok?

A lot of deposit, given that it's vegetable oil. It's available in markets everywhere, food section.
Better if you can adjust the 2T pump to use less 2T, or mix with normal 2T half/half.

The carbon will cause ring sticking.
It is very good if you rev the bike really2 hard, such as with racing chamber pipe.

Then, check the piston skirt and see if the existing 2T setting is too much.
It's good to reduce 2T setting anyhow.

If you prefer clean 2T, try Shell Nautilus marine 2T, very clean.
5 liter bottle for RM75 like that.

check your piston deposit, and that will tell if you can go with marine or not.
check the flash point of those FD, and it's relatively close to marine one.

then you really need to check and adjust 2T pump.
even with marine of JASO FD, you'll still get lots of oil and smoke and carbon deposit, if not reduced properly.

stock 2T pump is quite rich setting, like 1:20~25 like that even for low throttle.

For gearing of RGV, check gearingcommander_dot_com, I put it there already.
The 6th gear is just a bit heavier ratio, but main difference with RGS is the primary drive, inside the engine.

For my RGV, stock 13-42 I changed to 15-41. Everything standard.
You can consider increasing front sprocket to 15, and reducing rear sprocket later to suit your style.

This label is ori set right? Not HLD one. Unless the HLD one also comes with this sticker/label.

I think I have the RG 888 body and leg panels waiting to put on. My current one lately more and more mounting holes starting to break, especially the two holding tail lamp ones. Front white kepuk also almost break. Other covers are bought pieces with different colors. Ori headlamp, signal set also not cheap. RGV one cheaper. Used to have RGV blocks, sold them and sendiri use RG block. Is my daily bike now.

cabut mono.
be careful, if support with double stand whole bike may tumbang when mono come loose.

I can't recall what happened. I had to hold its weight in a hurry, and it went sideways.

Right now, if I think back, it just doesn't make sense, because when double stand up, the front is heavier. Even with the mono removed, it should not change... I might also be doing something else at the time, while trying to install my airbox.

Anyhow, proceed carefully. Are you removing airbox for good? I put mine in, and haven't need to service the carb for so many years. Able to maintain 180km per tank all the while now for city riding.

the local made hose joint from airbox to carb always shrink and harden, until cannot fit the carb. I think I finally got one that doesn't.
what vent do you plan to seal off when not in use? the airbox intake?

If you store bike, better fill the tank full. In my experience, half tank or low level petrol gets saturated with moisture very quickly, and the petrol will smell funny, then the tank rusts...

update: 88k and cheap out on 2t oil, now rod makan. Need overhaul.

ya, daily, but very short distance.
sometimes go far a bit, maybe 80~100km on rare occasions.

that day one car pintas in front of me, I dropped gear and overrev a bit too much. I think that really did the most damage and it just went downhill afterwards.
Another TZM was neglected for overdue ring/top end service, overrev into a corner and finally blew it. Had to tow back.