pic spam comments pls

i play a lot with wireless flash, even the A300 pop up sometimes is still not enough to trigger wirelessly in daylight (yea i am crazy to strobe at daylight) thus where the HVL-F20AM comes in real handy... at least faster cycle time then popup(4sec) i myself will have a go with HVL-F20AM... since it's a little upper hand for wireless shooter like me...

i am thinking, A200/300/350, will not trigger mounted flash(F42, F58) for triggering wireless flash.

HVL-F20AM is design to able to trigger wireless for A230/330/380/700/900...

but see that A230/330/380 CANNOT use F58 to trigger other wireless flash... (huh???? =.=||||)

i beg Sony to release a Fireware for A200/300/350 to able to use HVL-F20AM for triggering wireless flash... (even thou it doesnt trigger F58) ... else strobist will be boring without HVL-F20AM

i not sure what did i type,.... ignore my grammatic errors....

tanjq87: i speak from my experince. i do agree Sony wish to keep thier classes diff with A700 A900 from the entry levels. but funny is, why they would even release a HVL-F20AM with wireless trigger ability?(mainly aiming A900 user? cheap flash for a rm9999 body, lol) but i still stick with a cheapo body, to me lens plays bigger roles, and the rest, photoshop can deal with it.

F58 is powerful, thus, always allow min of 2 metre from subject if u fire 1/32, if ttl, it will auto choose power (hidden power like 1/64 and 1/128)

*even the infra is not pointing straight, it will still trigger if it detects the flash from the body. try, go into ur room, turn off light, put the flash behind u (facing away from u) and u press the * button (will trigger the flash, will not shutter release), see if the F58 behind u fires. u'll get what i mean.

albnok; so late haven sleep? hahaha, gimme five! i also looking forward to purchase HVL-F20AM, i wan to know the result does it works with A300 series or not, pls update me too

(since the A330 will able to use HVL-F20AM to trigger but not F58... hmmm.. i hope this HVL-F20AM wireless trigger is not rely on body firmware but a software/AI onboard itself? since A300 can still fire WL on F58 (but not triggering other wireless))

This post has been edited by ieR: May 19 2009, 02:08 AM

* button = AElock


*edit: sorry, i also blur blur coz sleepy.. what i mean, is, the AElock button, (used to see the "*" in the LCD when u AElock < thinking is the * button... hahaha)

*edit2: well, the flash, has a very fine flipflop or watever u call it, a very quick (double or tripple flash) that eye cant see, but the F58 and others can detect, that is why, sony cannot trigger nikon sb600/900 and nikon cant trigger F58/other but sony,nikon,canon can trigger the general nissin wireless(3in1)

This post has been edited by ieR: May 19 2009, 02:26 AM

Good to hear that!, how about F20 to able to trigger WL on A300?

500, 550... video? like mention in dyxum forum, might be 330 380 with video as more choice/selection...
but i still think 330 and 380 still sell like hot cakes, because, they themself arent such bad camera... and from some photo leaked/posted, i think i saw some more of manual selection of ISO (A300 only Auto will pick iso150,320 etc, limit 400) hope the new A330 will have better iso manual selection, limit at 800 (and release firmware for iso upgrade for A300)... looking into 330 for 2nd body(also gift for gf) if A700 will not have replacement any sooner


*why LYN will doublepost most of my post? forum buggeD?

This post has been edited by ieR: May 25 2009, 01:21 PM

i see a lot people asking, how good is 18-250. what if...

i myself is a freak of 'jack of all trade' or 'all in one' collector... i once did a heavy research and field testing with my friend's SAL18250 and heavy consideration to buy or not. in the end I DIDNT.

Reason:
1. the AI for it, Bad. sharpness = bad worst then 75-300.
2. distrotion and wide 18mm.
3. soft/blur at Wide 18mm corner.
4. terrible CA at above 100mm with strong sunlight (ND filter would fix this... = $$$ (CA worst then 75-300) putting on and off ND filter is hassle

5. and the biggest reason is, SAL18250 = 2nd body...
6. big, heavy, space = almost like carry 2nd body

SAL18250 is a nice all in one lens, but comes with compomise of a lot quality... of coz, if u are not pixel peep, then it would be fine. but do u really need 250mm when u go traveling? my travel 6 days in taiwan, shoot over 7k photoes, i only manage to need 55-200 for 15 photoes, the rest shot with 18-70 kit lens. honest opinion, 10mp at 70mm, u still have decent sharp photo at 1280px cropped (1280px enough for wallpaper and 4R prints).

my 2 cents

This post has been edited by ieR: May 26 2009, 01:09 AM

i dont know, i felt at some point of what i shoot, 75300 seem has better sharpness, i'm not sure why, if u are really sure it's sharper then 75300, then might be my mind playing,

daytime shooting, at 250mm, 18250 shows more CA then 75300... (but of coz 300mm of 75300 would be more terrible then 250mm for 18250)
nighttime, due to 18250 at higher tele stop at F6.3, it's harder to shoot a decent photo.that why i think overall, 75-300 is better then 18-250 my 2cent thou...

millenia3000:well... millenia, if u are not very concern with superb details, and have the financial ability, all in one 18250 is a common choice for lot of people who dont plan to get more then 1 lens. there is always way to fix the problem i mention like increasing the apperture higher then F6.3, use flash...

but to really know u really need 18-250 or not,... is to use it for a period of time... i am lucky to able to borrow a friend's 18250 for some time, and i found out i am more fond of 1870 then able to go 250mm... it's just me(or because of the $ involve to get it)... how long have u used 18-70? i find 18-70 is very decent lens, next sweet replacement would be 16105/1680 or 16-35 F2.8(if u plan FF in future/good F2.8), definately my choice wont be 18250 anymore after using my friends 18250 for some time...

do anyone agree with me, no matter what zoom lens, usually you gonna use only 2 zoom spot, widest and the further tele (18mm or 250mm only) (or 18mm and 70mm for kitlens) it is soo rare for anyone to use in between

---

Added on May 26, 2009, 3:45 amcome to think of it. it's not how good is 18-250... but rather, the choice between 18-70 or 18-250 as replacement... if u really need 70-250mm range, then go for it! i just find 70mm is sufficient. but definately, 18250 is far better good choice.

This post has been edited by ieR: May 26 2009, 03:49 AM

hehe i do agree sigma's finishing look arent... well, attractive to begin with... but here comes the saying, never judge a book from it's cover sigma does have much nicer and better lens compare to tamron,...

This post has been edited by ieR: May 26 2009, 08:17 AM

shootkk: yup, words of experinced user, u really need to use and understand the lens, some "Needs" it, some just collect it (macam saya ). the CA actually can be reduce with ND filter or light ND UVMCfilter (like the cheap UVfilter frm octopus). but too troublesome for removing and attaching (same thing as with 2 kitlens...) hehehe. shootkk: after a debate of 18250 as kitlens replacement, sure debate move on to, sony vs tamron vs siggy hahaha

millenia: i think, if u really really hate of removing and installing between lens, well, u got ur answer anyway, no lens are prefect, if there is One, well, sony just need to sell One lens to rules them all

This post has been edited by ieR: May 26 2009, 10:27 AM

ND is usually is good for people who shoot a lot during daylight where there is a lot reflection on the surface (water, mirror, glasses) where u get a reflection of the sunlight that 'burns' (over expose or create flare) in photo...

it's something like, metaphorely saying, 'slowing down strong light, but still allowing weak light coming in'

but most photographer will just say, it's a step down tool.

it is also useful when u wan to use WIDE OPEN F1.4 shooting at F16 sunray potraiture (bokehlicious BG) it just help u reduce the light power.
because theoritically, at mid-day, shooting at F1.4 would need 1/20000 shutter speed even at iso100

some shot in a F5.6 environment with a F16 light ray bouncing around (like in forest, ray light shot through among the leaves, needed sharp inside forest scenery) but some ppl like the ray to pass through then ND is Not required. or some use CPL (with ND) to increase or decrease the ray/fog

no i dont mean to kill reflection~ i mean to slow down the harse light bounce from reflection... i mentioned kill reflection? sorry my bad if i mention it, but i never meant it kills, it slow down the light that bounce from reflection.

if u guys stay near beach, try use ND or CPL w/ND to shoot sunset and see the result, the sparkle on the water are much softer.


CPL, best to ignore how it work, just KNOW HOW TO USE IT. coz going to know how it works, it take u back to college foundation in physic class where u study bout light wave and specturm, trust me, you dont wan to know.

This post has been edited by ieR: May 26 2009, 02:19 PM

pic spam.... take long ago, early stage of WLflash learning...

millenia:
Darkroom PP is allowed (dark room comes from the film age where people PP thier films in darkroom)
"Basic darkroom techniques eg. levels, curves, dodging, burning, minimal sharpening, colour correction, BW conversion are permissable to most contest."

example of what is not darkroom PP is, signature, frame/border(fancy type), adding a bird into the sky, teeth whitening, etc etc

ususally the question of PP borderline is when u need to submit your work for commercial or contest uses. other then that, honestly, most people wont be bother with ur unlimited imagination of PP. but there is some are sensitive.

ur shot, ur work, ur say. dont mind others too much ^^; imagination is ur limit.



ermm i think u get it wrong (or me, correct me if i am wrong)

CPL play with saturation... i dont think colored photo will be any more dramatic then....>>>>>>>> (below)

BW shot!... ND help increase contrast in BW shot making it wayy more dramatic! (it does help increase contrast in colored photo too)

A330 = A300 mark II.... LOL

not too fast, i need someone to correct if i am wrong about the ND or CPL uses also, coz i talk from my experince and i am very bad in expressing myself, that why usually i get shoot back... lol...

A200 grip design is a litttle more nicer then A300/350... more Curveeeee... like sexy body ehem camera,...

A230330380, triangle?!!?! the grip really a shock... lol

101% agree... if u have budget of 4k, get A200+cobra+50F1.4 enough to cover almost everything. or top up 500myr for A300