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 Planted Aquarium V2, unveal the secret underwater world

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tenchi0205
post Sep 6 2009, 09:18 PM

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QUOTE(Human Nature @ Sep 6 2009, 08:21 PM)
Hi, i plan to start a nano planted aquarium. I am relying heavily on DIY due to budget constraint. First timer, doing some readings. Haven't buy/do anything concrete yet..just visualizing it in mind.

1. I plan to DIY my own driftwood using a rambutan tree branch. Already know the basic steps. My doubt is, how to make it submerge (non floating) inside the tank? Also, the color now is brownish, would it be a good idea to burn it slightly to gives it a blackish (charcoal-ish) feel?

2. I know a planted aquarium needs a good soil full of nutrients. Just wondering izit possible to use the soil for normal potted plants for this purpose? I plan to mix them with some sand from the seaside to add more texture.

3. Some aquariums have background, while some not. What's are your guys stand on this?

Hope to hear some input. Thanks
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for Q1:

QUOTE
DIY Driftwood

For those of us who are the DIY types and who do not want to spend money on over priced driftwood from the pet shop, here is a simple guide to making your own.

Selecting the wood.

Finding driftwood can be a fun experience for the whole family. If you are lucky enough to live in a country setting, most driftwood can be found near your back door - in a river, lake, stream, or forest. If you live in suburbia or the big city, you may have to travel out of town a bit to find something suitable. Driftwood does not have to be 'drifting' in a stream or lake. It can be from one of the many fallen dead tree in the woods. Make sure it is OK to remove wood from the area. Some lands are protected and it is against the law to remove fallen trees/wood without first obtaining a permit.

Avoid softwoods such as Pine, Willow, or other fast growing tree. Avoid trees with lots of sticky sap like Pine or Maple. Avoid Cedar as it contains oils that repel insects and could be harmful to your fish. Hardwood (the harder the better) is best. It will last longer and you will be much happier with it. Cherry, Apple, and Oak all work well. Hardwood weighs more than softwood because it is more dense, and will also not break down as fast in your aquarium. Where you live determines what is available.

Take a good saw or hatchet along with you. You may have to cut it from a larger piece. Try to pick a sun beaten, old, gnarled and very dead specimen. Unique shapes with knots will add character to your aquarium. Look for signs of rot or infestation, which may make it un-desirable. Avoid polluted areas so you don’t pick a specimen that is contaminated. The more pristine the area, the better.

Preparing the wood.

Once again, make sure there is no rot. Use a wire brush to remove any rot. Strip the wood of any bark. Prepare a large plastic container by cleaning it and filling it with clean water. Tupperware or Sterilite work well. Dump in a couple handfuls salt and mix it well. This salt-water solution will help draw out any impurities and dehydrate many organisms on or in the wood. Weight down the wood with rocks, submerging it completely and cover the container with a lid. The wood will most likely leach tannins, turning the water brownish looking. Soak it for a few days to a couple weeks, changing the water daily. Try to soak it until it sinks on it's own and stops leaching tannins into the water. The length of time you need to soak it is largely dependant on how sun bleached it is to begin with. When you feel it has soaked long enough, rinse it well.

Sterilizing the wood.

There are two ways to sterilize the driftwood – Boiling and Baking. Boiling or baking will kill anything the salt water did not and keep your fish safe. There are pros and cons to either method.

Many times, boiling the wood is impractical unless you have a very large pot the wood will fit in. Boiling tends to stink up the house a bit. But, with boiling, there is less risk of the wood catching fire. Boiling also helps to ensure the wood will sink when added to the aquarium. If you choose to use this method, boil it well for at least an hour at a full rolling boil. Make sure the water covers the wood at all times.

Another method is to bake the wood in an oven on low heat (200 degrees F) for several hours. I prefer my old outdoor gas grill. Usually the wood fits nicely inside and I can close the lid and simmer it on low heat for as long as I like. When baking the wood, keep a careful eye on it. The dry heat of baking can allow the wood to catch fire, so check on it frequently.

Adding the wood.

The natural realistic driftwood addition makes any tank look spectacular and many fish and live plants love it. At first, your new driftwood may float again and you may need to attach it to a piece of slate or stone to weigh it down. There are different methods of achieving this. Your new wood may also leach more tannins into the water column for a period of time. This should not last forever and adding carbon to your filter will help to remove them. If it does leach tannins, they will not harm your fish. Keep an eye on things for a while and soon your driftwood will become an established part of your aquarium. Watch for mold growth or other abnormalities and you should be fine. You and your fish may now enjoy your new DIY driftwood.


For Q2, already got people provide u link liao...remember the pH of the water will be affected by those potted plant soil...the same when u burn the rambutan branches...will produce ash...a source of consists of oxides and salts containing anions such as phosphates, chlorides, sulfates, and other halides and cations such as sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium, iron, and manganese...might effect shrimp...

For Q3: its depend on you urself...diff ppl diff tatse ma cool.gif

tenchi0205
post Sep 17 2009, 06:51 PM

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@yujin
that 中文水晶虾论坛cant login liao one?
why?
tenchi0205
post Oct 4 2009, 09:54 PM

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tongue.gif long time didnt post photo liao...

here is the latest of my zhapalang tank


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tenchi0205
post Oct 5 2009, 07:55 AM

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QUOTE(chuppy2 @ Oct 4 2009, 10:13 PM)
looking good..

But why tiger barbs? LOL

Drew
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laugh.gif those barbs is from fren one...he wanna quit hobby so tumpang at my place...till somebody mau adopt them... whistling.gif
tenchi0205
post Oct 13 2009, 08:39 PM

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QUOTE(pinchboyz @ Oct 13 2009, 05:13 PM)
haha, for my 3 ft last time....
daily dosage...
5 push brighty K
5~6 push step 2
i think what u need now is daily dosage....
and u can directly go to step 2....
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blush.gif still not yet sell out?
tenchi0205
post Oct 14 2009, 06:23 PM

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QUOTE(pinchboyz @ Oct 14 2009, 08:12 AM)
at the moment, nope...
u want buy??
come, come, i offer free delivery to ur place at sp...
rclxub.gif the co2 tank n regulator pun dun knw mau wait till bila can buy also dun knw...u ask me buy ur tank whole set??? doh.gif
tenchi0205
post Oct 30 2009, 08:32 AM

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QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Oct 30 2009, 02:23 AM)
user posted image

die liao... nabeh... the most red RCS in my tank... the only female (i think) in the RCS community... the only female carrying eggs... why is this happening to me??...  cry.gif  cry.gif  cry.gif
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sad.gif sorry to know that...

mayb too old liao...or mayb chase by whole colony of CRS in the tank tired her up...

mine not as red as ur...



This post has been edited by tenchi0205: Oct 30 2009, 08:34 AM


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tenchi0205
post Oct 30 2009, 11:31 AM

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QUOTE(pinchboyz @ Oct 30 2009, 11:20 AM)
very long time u din show us ur tank's pic, wanna die ar?
fast fast this weekend go back and capture...
*
here you are taiko...plz dun kill me icon_question.gif


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tenchi0205
post Nov 4 2009, 09:06 AM

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QUOTE(pinchboyz @ Nov 4 2009, 08:41 AM)
i think u better remove the stick next to it be4 the bba geting worst....
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tongue.gif at the beginning i though was some type of moss
tenchi0205
post Nov 5 2009, 08:54 AM

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QUOTE(fongzai92 @ Nov 4 2009, 03:23 PM)
i think the bacteria also lower down the ammonia.. and ammonia is one of the source of algae...

if im mistaken.. pls correct ya... tongue.gif
*
ammonia (NH3) that is produced by the bacterial mineralization of fish wastes, excess food, and the decomposition of animal and plant tissues.

Nitrite poisoning inhibits the uptake of oxygen by red blood cells. Known as brown blood disease, or methemoglobinemia, the hemoglobin in red blood cells is converted to methemoglobin. This problem is much more severe in fresh water fish than in marine organisms. The presence of chloride ions (CL-) appears to inhibit the accumulation of nitrite in the blood stream.

Nitrifying bacteria are classified as obligate chemolithotrophs. This simply means that they must use inorganic salts as an energy source and generally cannot utilize organic materials. They must oxidize ammonia and nitrites for their energy needs and fix inorganic carbon dioxide (CO2) to fulfill their carbon requirements. They are largely non-motile and must colonize a surface (gravel, sand, synthetic biomedia, etc.) for optimum growth. They secrete a sticky slime matrix which they use to attach themselves.

All species have limited tolerance ranges and are individually sensitive to pH, dissolved oxygen levels, salt, temperature, and inhibitory chemicals.

The optimum pH range for Nitrosomonas is between 7.8-8.0.

The optimum pH range for Nitrobacter is between 7.3-7.5

The temperature for optimum growth of nitrifying bacteria is between 77-86° F (25-30° C).

Excess organics and ammonia/ammonium levels will result an algae break-out.

Please do not reduce nutrients like NO3 and PO4 in planted tanks to fight algae! By reducing them you will only induce algae even more! NO3 and PO4 can cause algae issues ONLY if they are MISSING!
tenchi0205
post Nov 5 2009, 11:02 AM

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QUOTE(chuppy2 @ Nov 5 2009, 09:12 AM)
" Please do not reduce nutrients like NO3 and PO4 in planted tanks to fight algae! By reducing them you will only induce algae even more! NO3 and PO4 can cause algae issues ONLY if they are MISSING! "

Is too GENERAL IMHO. What if the tank is not as healthy? not much plants maybe? then how would this apply lol. If the plants aren't even having optimum conditions to begin with, let's say a tank with no c02, 29Celcius , and this guy still fertilize it, even with full fledge rotalas, they'd melt somehow due to no c02 injection. ( further contributing bad elemts to the water column)

IN a healthy tank on the other hand, we purposely dose phosphate , pottasium and nitrogen.. hence NPK. tongue.gif and nitrate would be kept minimum automatically due to the high plant mass...

Just sharing, feel free to correct me. biggrin.gif
Drew
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tongue.gif u more sifu ma...That info i copy from the net saja
tenchi0205
post Nov 6 2009, 09:00 AM

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QUOTE(Namgor2006 @ Nov 5 2009, 06:55 PM)
very nice tank u got there rclxms.gif


Added on November 5, 2009, 6:57 pmreally long time didn't online already
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blush.gif thanks...



tenchi0205
post Nov 8 2009, 04:41 PM

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rclxms.gif 3 mummies come out to sun bath...




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tenchi0205
post Nov 8 2009, 06:49 PM

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QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Nov 8 2009, 06:39 PM)
i want cry liao..  sad.gif
*
blush.gif dun give up bro...
tenchi0205
post Nov 8 2009, 07:22 PM

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QUOTE(chuppy2 @ Nov 8 2009, 07:10 PM)
Tenchi is very bad, make cata cry LOL

Drew
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blush.gif if cheery survive very well can I add some low grade Cristal Shrimps?
tenchi0205
post Nov 8 2009, 07:48 PM

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QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Nov 8 2009, 07:26 PM)
bought another 30pc RCS... if still cannot i give up breeding shrimp liao...  sad.gif
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blink.gif wow..."sai lang" liao...good luck
tenchi0205
post Nov 8 2009, 08:07 PM

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QUOTE(chuppy2 @ Nov 8 2009, 07:54 PM)
Cata, have you checked your water for copper? or dosed anything in particular to cause shrimp death?

Drew
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hmm.gif usually where does the copper come from?
tenchi0205
post Nov 10 2009, 09:29 AM

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QUOTE(pinchboyz @ Nov 9 2009, 04:57 PM)
red red not ngam???

diamond also got....
user posted image

user posted image
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blush.gif yujin san...the cheapest of CRS can get is how much from u?


Added on November 10, 2009, 9:32 am
QUOTE(the_catacombs @ Nov 10 2009, 01:04 AM)
i got moss in my shrimp tank... growing, but vr slowly...
*
nod.gif my moss is grow like crazy...same do the riccia...but now to the plant yujin give and some hair grass, they doing very bad...


Added on November 10, 2009, 9:58 am
QUOTE(fongzai92 @ Nov 9 2009, 08:13 PM)
have some one in here has tried plant moss wall before ? im thinking about it.. but dunno whether suitable for my HOB filter or not...,,
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brows.gif taiwan moss wall

user posted image

This post has been edited by tenchi0205: Nov 10 2009, 09:58 AM
tenchi0205
post Nov 10 2009, 01:26 PM

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QUOTE
1. Tank size should be at least 20 gallons. I did not have much luck breeding them in smaller tanks.
2. Temp should be between 22-24C. Many people will keep crystal reds with cherries at higher temps (26C+), which is fine…but crystal reds display the best colors at lower temps and they tend to breed more readily at lower temps. I found this out after experimenting and having a lot of females carry eggs at 78.5F but very few off spring.
3. Moderate water hardness seems to work the best for robust breeding and coloration.
4. I highly recommend the addition of live plants to maintain good water quality and a natural environment.
5. Sponge filters are the best since they do not pose a danger to baby shrimp.
6. PH of 7.4 has worked well for me even though I’ve heard of breeders having success in acidic environments as well. I’m fairly certain crystal reds do NOT do well in very alkaline conditions.
7. Keep up with water changes! Crystal Red shrimp are HIGHLY prone to nitrate poisoning and they need good water to maintain good health and molting. I do weekly 30% water changes. I use plain tap water (moderate hardness, PH 7.6) and I treat it with declorinator (Amquel+ and Novaqua).
8. I use a little DIY Co2 just to keep the plants healthy and it helps to lower the PH slightly. Co2 is not necessary for successful breeding and poses little threat to crystal reds when used in moderation.
9. I use full spectrum lighting...10 hours a day on a timer.
10. I DO NOT dose liquid iodine as the shrimp will get all they need from a proper diet.
11. I feed them HBH Vegetable Wafers and HBC Crab & Lobster Bites exclusively. Any invertebrate food will suffice as long as it does not contain any large amounts of copper (READ those labels!). I will occasionally drop in a piece of boiled vegetable (squash or spinach). I feed my shrimp once a day in very small amounts.

The bottom line is you can keep Crystal Red shrimp in similar conditions as other common freshwater dwarf shrimp. However, the keys to successful breeding will depend heavily upon temperature and water quality.


get this from plantedtank.net...hope catatomb can have a look
tenchi0205
post Nov 10 2009, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(Foxngn @ Nov 10 2009, 02:29 PM)
say guys.. is it possible to find any Vampire crabs - Geosesarma sp selling here?
*
user posted image
seem like Singaporean can get it...local i never see before

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