My cinema, screening since 1996, recently updated.
Room size - 20.5' x 9.6' x 10.5' (LxWxH), 1D0W.
Screen size - 106"




This post has been edited by skeelee: Mar 2 2012, 10:52 PM

I would say 9'x15' is quite a decent room size. At least its dimension is closer to the Golden Ratio and therefore less problematic to work with. Don't restrict yourself to satelites if budget permits.

If you are serious and crazy enough, brick up the window, install aircon and exhaust fan and place your tv there. (That's what I did)
Another way is to install heavy drape that cut out all light from the window, place the tv against or near the window.

Bought two pairs of 8"x10" steel L-brackets yesterday from the neighbourhood hardware shop. Screw on two pieces of planks and I will have two wall mounts for my surround speakers. At only RM9 apiece.
They are made from 60mm flat strip of 4 or 5mm thick braced with steel rods and are very strong. Other sizes are also available.
(Ordered a pair of bookshelf speakers at KLIAVS to replace my too-small surround back speakers.)

Agreed. There is no such thing as THE BEST System, nor the best for a certain budget. And any system is better than no system at all, so don't wait, just take the plunge and enjoy.

As for upgrading, my problem is that I don't know how to dispose the old stuff. Closed-caption decoder for Laser Disc player, anyone?

Going through Philips' website about 3560K, there are Aux-in and Digital-Optical-in for audio, but there is no HDMI-in. Therefore, the best option open to you is to connect your PC to 3560K using the optical link.
You need to configure your PC to use the Optical audio instead of HDMI. The video will still be through HDMI from the PC directly to TV.
Since your PC has HDMI, I suppose it also comes with optical output.

In that case, why not connect headphone out on the laptop to Aux-in, using the right cable of course. You cannot get 5.1, but Dolby prologic should still work.

You can if there is an optical OUTPUT on your TV, and check the spec of your TV to find out what audio signals are supported. It could be PCM 2.0 only.

Haze is causing havoc. Even my windowless HT room is affected, pollutants brought in by the exhaust fan.

The light beam from my projector is now clearly visible through the air. Need to get an ionizer for the room now.

Just want to share the following facts with you guys:

1. Bought a NAD T748 AV receiver in October 2011, and set up for use in December 2011.

2. T748 stopped working in January 2013, sent back for repair. Learned that it is 2-years warranty in Singapore for NAD products but in Malaysia it's only 1-year.

3. As of today after more than 5 months, the technician still has no fxxxing idea as to the cost of parts and repair, when parts will be available, and when the repair can be done.

From A&L.
Just got back from KLIAVS. Their rooms are the only ones that I didn't step in.

Quite impressed with the demo, finally decided to get the Darbee Darblet VP-5000.

My 10m HDMI cable from AVR to projector is less than ideal, have to rely on an HDMI Extender for it to work as it is. After setting up the Darbee at the AVR end, I get the improved video, but it keeps dropping off.

After searching the web for solution, the output signal strength of the Darbee is apparently lower than that of the input signal, thus causing the drop off since my system is already a border line case. The solution is to set up the Darbee at the projector end, and now it works even without the HDMI extender. Fortunately, the IR remote still works although the Darbee is sitting on top of the projector without a direct line-of-sight.

Hopefully this info will help those who may face a similar situation.

I got the HDMI cable from another forummer, before I met htkaki. Now I know where to get my next HDMI cable.