For soundproofing, you need to have dry wall detach from your concrete wall as the air will act as a layer of insulation. Check out this website for more info.

http://www.truesoundcontrol.com/products/soundproofing.html

Change from YSP-4000 to Axiom M22 Onwall + VP100. Amp is using Marantz Slimline NR-1501. If you need high WAF, this is a good combo. Even my wife say the add-on column to mount the speaker fit to the deco nicely. I get better separation and details compare to YSP.

50" panasonic plasma tv.

I use logitech dinovo keyboard with built in trackpad.

Auralex also got pirate version. Anyway, can pm me the price and where to get? Might want to get some for additional sound treatment for my HT room.

The only recommendation I can give is Sharp XV-17000 Full HD DLP projector around USD 4k. If your primary objective is to get 3D, I don't think JVC RS40, RS50 and RS60 is a good choice due to low lumens unless you have high gain screen at less than 100" diagonal.

My latest update for Year 2011.

Add diffusor for back wall.
Add additional sound absorber at the middle of the back wall to treat first reflection for center speaker.
Upgrade receiver from Onkyo 805 to Denon 4311.
Add Acer H5360BD 720p 3D projector. Additional HDMI cable temp hanging from the projector to the floor. Need to climb into the ceiling to conceal the HDMI wire.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Aug 18 2011, 01:44 PM


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htkaki is right. I painted the diffusor with medium gray acrylic paint to cut down light reflection. Normally diffusor is install at ceiling and back wall to make your room sound bigger. I use 3M Velcro picture hanging strip to stick it to the wall and easy to remove.

http://www.command.com/wps/portal/3M/en_US...LbeF0GFSQ26BSgl

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Added on August 18, 2011, 5:55 pmFor living room, you can get painted canvas or photo canvas as cover for absorber to make it more wife friendly. Normally you put absorber at first reflection point. Use a mirror and ask someone to move it along the wall. If you can see your speaker in your favourite seating position, that would be your first reflection point. Diffusor normally you can put it at the side wall or back wall to increase the ambient sound effect. It diffuse the sound so it sound like a bigger hall than living room.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Aug 18 2011, 05:55 PM

The absorber is quite effective in cutting down the noise. Lot's of DIY info here. You can hold an absorber in front of any sound source and hear the difference.

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Added on August 19, 2011, 1:17 pmBased on your diagram, I would put absorber at the side wall between the speaker and your main seat. Best if you get your wife dressing mirror and push it along the side wall until you can see your speaker in the reflection on your main seat. That would be the place I put the absorber. As for difussor, I would put at the side wall and behind of the seat.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Aug 19 2011, 03:45 PM

I sit around 11' from a 114" 16:9 (8' wide) screen and it's fine for me. For fullHD projector, you can go up to 1.2x seating distance compare to screen width.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Aug 22 2011, 10:44 AM

Maybe still in big screen honeymoon. Once it is over, you will try to go bigger. It's a never ending cycle. Just like bass, once you get use to your current system, you wish for more bass. Now I'm considering to build a second unit of eD A7s-650

Previously I use Da-Lite HCCV pull down and it develop wrinkles after few months of usage. I believe to eliminate this issue, you need to get tension pull down screen.

Now I use fix screen for 3 years plus without a single wrinkle.

Check this out. You can ask Junwei to hang some absorber and diffusor to treat the slope ceilling. V-shape ceilling is difficult to treat as it create some sort of horn that foucs the sound down from the ceilling. You want to diffuse the sound, not pinpoint the sound to make your room sound bigger. Hanging absorber/diffusor at the peak of the ceilling help to reduce this narrow focus of sound.

Another method is absorber at the back of the diffusor with diffusor facing down the floor.

http://www.gearslutz.com/board/bass-traps-...-treatment.html

This post has been edited by pierreye: Aug 31 2011, 02:12 PM


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Most modern motherboard come with 8-10 SATA port. Or you can get a PCI-e SATA card to expansion your slot. You need a full tower casing to fit all 10 HDD inside. Still cheaper than a 10 HDD NAS.

Agree with Paskal that JMicron is not the best controller in the world. Most of us would try to avoid SSD with JMicron. The full tower suggestion is for those that build file server and put it in the store room with 24x7 access + other download service you want to run. I don't prefer 10 HDD in HTPC casing due to air flow issue plus if you run it in a TV cabinet which mostly are bad for air flow.

You can have your own private theater at around RM 2k+. Check out the below thread. I email Sony Malaysia but looks like they currently do not have plan to bring in. Must get one from the State when it is launch. So far the feedback from those that had try the demo seems positive.

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread....=1357798&page=4

You guys are in good hand. So, anyone from the East getting VideoEQ Pro or Lumagen?

This post has been edited by pierreye: Sep 24 2011, 09:44 AM

If you get this projector for 3D, don't buy grey screen. Most grey screen had negative gain (except Stewart). I would go for at least 1.3 gain screen.

Da-lite 2.4 HP screen is a good candidate for RS40 due to the brightness drop off issue. RS45 might be worth the wait as I heard the price is quite cheap and hopefully JVC solve the lamp issue. The viewing angle is a little bit narrow around 30 degree. Seldom hear hotspotting issue with Da-Lite 2.4 HP but projector need to mount near to middle of the screen to max the gain. Another benefit of high gain screen due to angular reflection is it reject ambient light.

As for 3D, ghosting still an issue with LCOS/LCD unit. RS40 need some warm up time around 30 mins to reduce the ghosting. So far, most agree DLP is the best for 3D with almost zero ghosting.

This post has been edited by pierreye: Oct 24 2011, 12:14 PM

Looks like Mit HC7800D could be the 3D projector to get before end of year 2011.

http://translate.google.com/translate?sl=d...iew.htm&act=url