semi d house still have a neighbor somewhere in front, back, left or right.
sell off more stuffs at a fat profit margin like you're doing and your dream will come real really fast. maybe can build a detached everything ala a bungalow if you can sell more of them triangles.

like anything is new in these parts of the forum.

sold off your audio technica? thinking of going back to headphones as i now spend most of my day in the back study room.

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Added on December 16, 2011, 8:47 pmdual wall construction is quite normal in european countries as it provides a good insulation between the outside and inside wall. lots of people are reporting good feedback from the use of such construction method to provide a sound barrier between walls.

it's quite unheard of in this country because people don't really need to have a good insulation to the outside. it's used quite extensively in the construction of modular building and industrialized building systems. the government are trying to push ibs for local adoption. and with ibs building material (composite wall sandwitched by concrete) dual wall would be a normal thing especially for multi storey building as a single ibs wall don't have enough load bearing capacity to support multiple storey on top of it.

but i guess a hifi salesman would know nuts about building construction.

This post has been edited by paskal: Dec 16 2011, 08:47 PM

sorry if anyone felt offended or worse, insulted by my posts.
it is not in my intention to offend or insult anyone. so in the spirit of good will, i would like publicly apologize if should anyone felt offended or insulted by my comments. i might have overreacted by the response that i got just from asking further when someone mentioned ‘double wall’. I would like to extend my apologies especially to htkaki for my reaction. Sorry if you felt insulted or offended.

In my defense, I did felt a bit of belittlement when my question about dual wall got dished out before there’s even any discussion about it. Tho I am fond of diy, you guys don’t have to call me names. Not like I can’t afford buying off the shelf equipment, but I prefer diy route where there’s more freedom of control.

I really hope this approach doesn’t continue anymore after this. Let this be a better place to share ideas tho how odd it might sound in the first place. Now let’s move on to the things that matter.

(snippet removed. too much background info)

The reason being for my question is that I consulted my wife about the viability of constructing a basement home theater room as jchong’s, but my wife did said that it’s not advisable especially in the proposed location as there’s a clear risk of water seepage. The fact that it’s so close to the sea waterline and the rise of waterline during high tide to about a feet above land level makes it even riskier. The location is also flanked by paddy fields and a river. Porous land, paddy fields, a river and less than 50 feet from the waterline. Bad idea.

Not that it can’t be done, but it will require lots of properly planned water insulation material. Even then there’s still no guarantee it will stop water from reaching the interior walls. The material will eventually fail in time, just like the problem with upstairs toilet. So the basement idea had to go.

I was thinking of dual wall construction as it may be better in stopping sound from penetrating to the adjacent room as the idea is to put the ht room next to the main bedroom. The ht room with be at a corner thus needing dual wall erected only at 2 wall facing the interior. If people would consider erecting a false wall using plywood inside their ht room, dual wall with brick would require even less space to build.

I know this is not a construction forum, but thinking that this had something to do with home theater I’m hoping it’s not out of place to be discussed. Any constructive criticism would be much appreciated. No pun intended.

This post has been edited by paskal: Dec 19 2011, 09:38 AM

yes sir we're cool with it. let's bury the hatchet.
to be frank i got tired of this whole misunderstanding between us. the whole idea of this public forum is to share ideas and knowledge, and even for people who don't chip in to at least read and know about it.

ibs is a great path if should it became mass adopted. my wife said they only need 2 weeks to build a single storey bungalow from start to finish.

if your friend do decide to sell it off, rest assured the room could be transported by trucks as the entire structure is quite movable. have a greater resilient to structural damage also since it's not rigid like bricks. wife is pushing to whole idea about using ibs for our construction as it's 10%-30% cheaper compared to bricks. still i really prefer to visit and have a see look first to inspect the construction outcome. don't want a wavy wall inside the house.

the implementation of rockwool or other non-solid compound as the center structure (sandwich material) do sound promising in stopping sound from passing through. again, no pun intended.

point taken.
humidity is a major concern especially near the sea. someone did mention before this that the speaker cone damage is accelerated in humid condition. i'm guessing it'll be a lot worse in a hot and humid weather.


thanks for not quoting the spoiler. snippet removed.

from the national land code, you're supposed to own everything under your land, and everything on top of it.
but that law is superseded by the local council act which dictates how deep can you build. which might be different according to each local council. best to check with your local council.

again, it's under the local council act. usually soil study isn't required by the local council for house basement construction. just need a structural plan by a structural engineer to be submitted to the local council together with the architectural plan. if soil study is needed, you need to contact a geologist/geology consultant.

my in-laws happen to be a certified land surveyor. in that sense i could *probably* help with things regarding land laws.

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Added on December 27, 2011, 12:05 amin this regard, soil test is required for basement construction to determine how much structural reinforcement required for the structural plan. the local council have their own structural engineer and architect which will recheck the plans submitted and reconfirm that the building have enough fortification.

This post has been edited by paskal: Dec 27 2011, 12:05 AM

out of all the tripath chips, the best sounding are said to be the TA2024 chip.
but they're really really low powered, capable of only 6W of power. tripath did produced a few model of them class t chips from a few watt to chips capable of driving a few hundred watt, that is before closing shop.

for a high sensitivity speaker like the triangles, 6W is enough to drive them to sane listening levels.

and while doing so, why not add an active crossover to the mix and separate the LF and HF altogether?
after toying with an active setup i can safely say that i will never go back to a passive system (ever) again.

but for movies/concerts/multichannel music, the center channel doesn't improve as much as the fronts after being actively driven. but there's a catch; if you run the fronts active you need to run the center active else there will be a huge/audible/significant phase distortion and the center channel will stand out like a sore thumb.

quite frankly it's cheaper to buy a good subwoofer and be done with it. true that DIY will help you save on the final build but going the path will cost more than splurging your cash on an off-the-shelf sub. take a look at a good 15"/18" driver that will hold ground with an SVS PB13 Ultra or Rythmik FV15HP. the driver itself will cost nearly RM3k each (TC Sounds). and you still have to buy all the tools, amps, build the enclosure, etc.

going through the DIY route isn't meant for people looking to spend less.
if you wanna spend less look at the used market.


you got that right. even following the xover frequency suggested by the original speaker design i got into some distortion. had to mess around with the xover frequency to get it to sound right. would be much easier if there's a datasheet on the driver used but since this is a commercial speaker there's none available. had to tune using the most unscientific method of all, using the ears.

still it's a good experimentation, that is if you have nothing better to do. rest assured that the final result will be verry rewarding.

i have to agree that it's better to start with a diy speaker where you have access to the driver specs but guess i have to start somewhere. at least now i can confirm i have a working electronics if should i ever decide to embark on an active loudspeaker project like the linkwitz orion.

i was expecting that too. since most of the sound is coming from the center channel, running the center active would hopefully bring even more improvement compared to the fronts. turn out it's not as expected. the improvement is very minimal compared to the efforts required. heck i'd say it's not even worth to try i have no idea why the center channel didn't benefit as much as the fronts.

lots of people are saying how much benefit to be had when running active and i do agree with them. tho not a lot are saying anything about running active past the front left and right.

and true to your assumption, running active alters the sound signature of the speaker altogether. tho this alteration is not necessarily in a bad way.

nah, that cow dato not into hifi. that cow is in apartment and condo.

mind exposing the model and make of the amp? and the speakers it will paired to?

better to go for an audition first before committing to anything. and if possible, avoid retail chain stores as they're usually not really knowledgeable (salesman concerned) like your specialty hifi stores.

it's real easy to make a good component sound really ridiculous by messing up the tuning when home theater are concerned.

a better valued proposition would have to be the SEOS project.
it's been put against JTR noesis and a number of other brands in at least one shootout.

is the sub custom made?

may i know what drivers that you used? is it locally sourced?

it will go through the same preamp stage as any other input. which could sometimes be detrimental to sound quality (if you're into that kind of thing).

for those that don't mind the signal going through multiple preamp stage, can connect the avr preout to the int amp input and remember the volume level at which the calibration is done. the target is to get the int amp preamp set at a gain of 1. amps with ht bypass will fix the volume gain at a constant level so that it doesn't change with the knob.

i believe only reserved at higher end of the chain. either use the method above or buy a separate stereo pre.

if you consider remembering a particular knob position as complicated, well..