Need after CNY only I can do. As now going to CNY, I work 7 days a week.

wah i want.... how much the price??...


not height adjustable ler... soft hard adjustable....


for carburetor cars, ficd works together with idle load compensator (ufo thing attached to the side of ur carburetor) to control ur aircond ON idle rpm... ficd is jz a valve which turns on and off with respect to ur aircond compressor.... there is a vacuum tube which is connected to the IDC... its the IDC where u tune ur idle rpm according to ur preference...

u cannot control how much air passing through the ficd... but u can control the height of the IDC actuator... vacuum suction from ficd activates the actuator in ur IDC....

means when the vacuum is not strong enough, it has insufficient strength to overcome ur carburetor flap return spring.... thats is where ur idling become unstable....

sure boss..

Ooo.. thx for explaining, sifoo since vacuum leaking, at the moment ac compressor kick in, the "leaking vacuum" is onli strong enough to suck the "idc actuator" to 1k rpm position instead of 1.5k rpm, then after driving the car, "leaking vacuum" is just barely able to hold up the 1.5k rpm position..

so my "idc actuator" was actually set to 1.5k rpm from the previous %@#%^ owner to cover up the insufficient vacuum strength when ON aircon during idling which could bring up violent shaking if 1k rpm drop to 500 rpm... i gonna try look for leaks..

Any pics to show bro?

This post has been edited by Zack Styler: Jan 6 2009, 09:50 PM

check around for leaks in ur vacuum tube... loose connection or so... or else, should be faulty ficd... might be leaking some air, means not fully closed...


dun have proper photo lah... but it looks something like this...



round ufo shape at the right side of ur carburetor... there is 2 of it.... 1 is idle load compensator... another one is exhaust gas recirculation valve....

okok, i will try.. sifoo cat... if FICD broken hw much to replace ar?...
haha, tat ufo thing damn hot 1... i touched it last time... coz relli funny got ufo under my hood..

Which one is the IDC actuator?

And my brake system got mood one, syok syok makan syok syok tak makan..

And my friend say the reason the car jerks while air con kicks in when the car is moving means time to service the compressor again, how much to do that? He said the compressor need to do some lubricating? Where to service? Air con service center or normal car workshop?

And one more thing, do you guys encounter the brake/accelerator pedal sink a bit everytime the air con compressor kicks in/off?

mayb u touch dat one is EGR.... exhaust gas recirculation allows some exhaust gas being circulated back into the intake to reduce combustion temperature and reduce CO emission....


locate the one with vacuum hose leading to ur ficd....

yes... sometimes could be compressor fault... if ur compressor not spinning smoothly, it will generate more load on ur engine... hence, more rpm drop and causes ur engine to jerk... another symptom is ur acceleration will be vr much affected due to the extra load caused by friction inside the aircond compressor...
yea, ur aircond compressor need regular service and topup lubricant/oil so it could spin smoothly without generating much load to ur engine...
jz go to any car aircond shop do...

brake pedal sink is due to drop of vacuum from ur engine when ur aircond loads the engine... FYI, brake servo needs engine vacuum to work... how i not sure, need to ask sifoo singchaii.... when there is a vacuum drop from ur engine to ur brake servo, ur brake pedal sinks a little...

vacuum drop is due to sudden drop of rpm when aircond compressor kicks in...

for the first gen saga supporters, heres an old top gear episode about the great old proton saga

http://videos.streetfire.net/video/Top-Gea...1991_209541.htm

i come once in a while to ask a question.

hehe. now for my question. can an old ugly saga like mine.

use the bosch platinum 4.? the one with the 4 heads.

piston nnt tak bocor ke due to to strong spark.?

and how much.? thank you in advance.

why not??...spark power is still the same... u didnt increase the spark power.... u jz use a better sparkplug which allow better combustion....

i just checked my vacuum tubes, 1 from back of engine to ficd, another from ficd to idc. doesnt feel any leaking suction when i run my finger all over them... headache... i did try pushing the idc screw(for adjusting idling) down, i push a bit hard(harder than tarik acceretor lines), and the idc actuator actually can go down lower.. revving my engine at exactly 1.5k rpm.. sure got leak lor.. ... headache.. sifoo cat, izzit normal if we cant push the idc actuator screw lower if everything was running fine?

What about changing the air con belt also? Can it be done by the air con guy also?

Hey guys! Im planning to change my iswara lowered Improve Propex to Hotbits Silver Series adjustable pretty soon.
Izit recommended for me to change to a harder spring rate at the front (Silver Series sport spring) than the one came with in the rear (Silver Series spring) ?
Can I mix the spring rate?
Iswara tends to oversteer (backends feels wobbly) at conering but will the harder spring at the front will help to minimize the oversteer?
Really a headache for me.
Thank u Thank u.

yeap... if everything working fine, ur IDC should push the actuator maximum... if there is free play some more means ur vacuum is weak.... means got leak lor, not full power mah.....


yeap...


the hotbits adjustable is soft/hard or high/low... if it is a high/low adjustable coilovers, it should come with the springs....
yes, spring rate can be custom made for ur reference... u'll need to go back to the factory to do this.... off the shelf items from workshop is usually meant for normal everyday use....

yes, harder front suspension minimize oversteer...

Well, the front is Hi/Low adjustable only and the rear is short stroke absorber only.
No more adjustment can be made at the back. Try to find other brands that follow the GAB adjustable method for Vios where the rear spring can be adjusted.
But cannot find any for Iswara.
There r no other brands to choose.

but according to this article Click

Increasing front absorber rebound damping (izit the same as changing the spring rate?) will help to decrease the oversteer?

yeap... i guess only TITAN custom make the seat height for saga iswara rear suspension... others all non height adjustable...

rebound damping is for absorbers while spring rate is for the spring stiffness.... the stiffer ur absorber, the higher the rebound damping... both absorber and spring must work together to achieve good handling n comfort (not bumpy)...

need to pair a good suspension quite hard. i still do research on it

Yes.. Brake servo need vacuum to work. You can easily try it out. Once the vacuum hose connected to the brake servo being remove, there totally no brake. What the vacuum work? The vacuum work to push the needle on the brake servo so the needle will touch the brake pump. Then only brake apply.. Put in mind, when there is no vacuum or not enough vacuum in the brake servo, then the brake servo will spoile very fast.

When the brake pedal sink, either the brake pad getting thin or you need to adjust the middle needle on the brake servo. Adjust it longer so you no need press the pedal so down only can apply brake. Adjust the middle neddle is so difficult. Do it at workshop and DON"T EVEN TRY TO ADJUST BY OWN unless you have the enough tool and also the skill..

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Added on January 8, 2009, 5:42 pm
For saga/iswara/lmss/lmst, the best suspension setup is using stock absorber and pair with 'lowered sport spring'. Cause the stock absorber is in not soft and not hard category. Fit our car weight perfectly. If you have more budget, go for custom make titan. But of course the price is much more expensive.

This post has been edited by singchaii: Jan 8 2009, 05:42 PM