not the setting problem, i test using same setting for front and real channel, and appropriate volume, even by using 3 modes separately, no different, the distortion just can't go lower, stay same...

This is front channel graph


Real ST4558


as you can see, the front left exhibit some spike compare to ST4558...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: May 28 2008, 12:17 AM

I see...well, I can't get the X-Fi to work with RMAA, how to set it to work

Actually no need using Audio Creation mode to test, using entertainment mode yield the same result...

If you are using Audio Creation mode, enable bit-matched and using the windows volume panel to tune the sound level and mute all others channel...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: May 28 2008, 12:23 AM

Here's my RMAA result, the frequency response is haywire, other looks great though

U using which mode? you must mute the line-in output before testing...

Audio Creation, if I mute them then how can I record it? Doesn't make any sense.....it won't register anything if I mute them

Are you sure? i means Line-in playback...

The slider in Creative console quite confusing, just using the windows volume panel...

I know, I done just that, now its getting weirder, I get the perfect graph

the reason is simple, because u select the 'What U hear/wave" in recording....

How can you choose Line-In when you mute it? Mine doesn't register anything to be recorded, the level is -70dB no matter how hight I put the volume graph is

I choose the Line-In in recording and mute the Line-In in Playback...you get it?

Yes of course, I done this million times before (I've played a lot of soundcard before), but still won't register much. Hmm, I'll look at it tomorrow, getting sleepy....

ya, i believe you know it, just scare you are blur now because sleepy + sick...

I done some modding, changed the DSP caps with 1000uF 16V Sanyo WG caps. Weirdly my soldering iron is not hot enough to melt the solder on negative point of the caps, resulting I put the caps on the back side of the card (I noticed this problem even on Live! cards)

It working great, I was worried that it might not work because firstly since I use a lot of heat to remove the bugger caps and secondly I use low ESR caps that it shuts down the regulator, but thankfully its not

Next might be to remove the stupid decoupling caps, but I afraid that the problem with negative point again. Maybe a wire behind the caps to short them works just as fine as removing them....?

EDIT: My mod is almost done, I removed the decoupling, short them, along with additional trodas mod on the card plus I don't use any opamp. It sounds great, but because there is construction work in front of my house, I can't really test the card fully

But I will against not using an opamp, when I change the volume it will pop and shut down my amplifier. So don't do it even though it sounds better. I plan to use LME49720 because I have no other choice

This post has been edited by Najmods: May 28 2008, 10:04 AM

So far you are the first to bypass the opamp in the world..

Hehe, you're right. I'm crazy enough to do so

Well, finally my mod is done! Complete with LME49720 and a little more capacitor changes. The improvement is It sounded great sparkly, full with detail, airy. It sounded a lot better than my previous fully modded HD2 too Its a bliss, although I still have few more mods in mind, well I think its enough. My hand is shaken when I done this mod, I'm not fully recovered from fever yet

EDIT: Some picture for poisoning




This post has been edited by Najmods: May 28 2008, 01:21 PM

bypass opamp cool!!

@Najmods

Bro, how much of the solid cap? Can you test the opamp output to see how much the DC voltage offset since you bypass the decoupling cap? If can post your RMAA test as well...

This post has been edited by coolkwc: May 28 2008, 05:59 PM

How much of what? The capacitance value or the price? RMAA is impossible, since I removed some of the caps on the line-in that is why I can't test the card for RMAA anymore Oh, I no longer bypassing the opamp, I use LME49720 now

If you really want it, I can resolder back the capacitor

This post has been edited by Najmods: May 28 2008, 06:15 PM

I ask for price...and how much for LME49720? Can you test the opamp output DC offset using digital multimeter? because i read from head-fi who shorted the decoupling cap detected some DC offset from opamp output terminal....

why you removed it? you are not to use line-In anymore?

EDIT: i search in Farnell and only got LME49721MA, i compare the data sheet for 49720 to 49721 first..

This post has been edited by coolkwc: May 28 2008, 06:53 PM