Bro, no pics of the ghetto bay reservoir ar ?

i see nirox =_= i thought u were using D5
iwaki RD30 anyone? its rm 1000 with tax, local 3 year warranty from local iwaki distro

It's getting late and I still work tomorrow but here we go

The overall flow rate calculation is an average, not displaying effective flow rate at entry of waterblock and post block.. What I'd rather do is to use the use the chart to calculate what's the flow rate post block. That's how I worked out your flow rate. That's the figure post outlet of your fuzion and if that's good enough for your MCP60, then it should be fine. That's how I view the table's usefulness.

As for the nozzle kit, you have to ask yourself how much your willing to give up just for that extra squeeze. I'd say for such a short and very low pipe restriction due to minimal bend, you might be better off without the nozzle. At such length, it's likely you're still getting laminar flow so you're having jet effect at inlet. That nozzle might worsen things since at such length, it might be just causing back pressure, hence reducing effective flow and effective head pressure at inlet. that nozzle imho would suit best for normal nearly 1ft length arcing tubing in ATX casings since by about 8-9", the flow would be experiencing turbulent flow internally hence slow down of flow rate thanks to turbulence resistance and wall friction combined. That's where the nozzle's purpose kicks in as it accelerates the slowed down water flow. Because remember, the Fuzion still utilises a flow thru method where flow rate is more important then flow thru pressure. Flow thru pressure only applies for jetting based blocks

I agree with the MCW60's mounting method being a pain but it's not much different then mounting any normal waterblock if you asked me. In the end, you have to really ask yourself, at what cost are you going to pay to get the best? Would it be the cash spent experimenting the various blocks or the time and effort to tweak and tweak to get that edge?

Dual pump not necessary safer to be honest. You want safe? Go AC based instead, the ultimate in safety (Japan made Iwaki's anyone? LOL). At least you know the bugger works or not before you power up. And the DDC 3.2's problem you wanna know why? Very simple really. It's a finely engineered pump which utilises the 3 pin connection for mobo's. The problem with that is that these motors bloody hate variating voltage rates which mobo outputs are notorious for. Feed it with clean current at a fixed rate and it'll work for quite sometime.

IF you wanna really learn liechy, I'd suggest you'd take some time and get your hands dirty in experimenting various setups until you get your best setup. And you have to try every variable down to mounting technique and thermal paste application. Trust me, the biggest tweaks lie in the least likely places

jetting based?.. what does that mean?

jet impingement based waterrblock = storm type design...(go google around)
non- jet impingement type = apogee gt etc

fuzion with nozzle kit i dunno wat type oso... hehe

bryanyeo87, are u serious ? RM1k for iwaki ?? .... btw is this babe is on par with Ehiem...... i dun see many user around

i tot D tek fuzion is a jetting based block ? looking from the water inlet barb design

non-jet impigment IIRC

yakah, iwaki so terror........ must go and do some research....

Guys is there any water cooler below RM 200 that can achieved 20C@1.5V@Idle?

can.. tubing RM10, pump RM40, Custom res(pail for ice) RM3, Cheap water block RM100+ and ice RM1 for 1 bag.. expected to go below 10C..  add salt into water for lower temps... 

can.. tubing RM10, pump RM40, Custom res(pail for ice) RM3, Cheap water block RM100+ and ice RM1 for 1 bag.. expected to go below 10C..  add salt into water for lower temps... 

apa ice.
use la dry ice