shutter speed of 1/60 and higher will show the flickering of the light...

that's why i was asking you to redo the whole thing again and see any differences or not

I always thought that no filter gives the best IQ. Apparently not from Vincent's study. No filter second last in terms of IQ.

1) Hoya HD
2) B+w (alloy)
3) Hoya Pro1
4) No filter <---------- see ... Very yellow.
5) Hoya HMC

Hi Vincent Pang,

i just try to shoot a fluorescent light using lens with hoya hmc uv filter and without filter in burst mode. what i get is same. same as all your image result in one burst mode shoot.

im not a pro. maybe u can reshoot again with a Hoya HD and B+W(alloy) in burst mode. see how the result is?...

My opinion is ur filter quality comparison is not ideal if u using a fluorescent light as a object.

from the result ... best to get is Hoya HD

guys, morning!

is it cheap, B+W 010M MRC UV HAZE Filter 77mm at RM220 and B+W 010M MRC UV HAZE Filter 67mm at RM160?

are they good? any1 here using B+W 010M MRC UV HAZE Filter?

this might help u:
http://www.calvinstudio.net/?p=523

a good comparison indeep .. .. Thanks for sharing ..

77mm price i get is RM250 ... 67mm price i get is the same with yours ... are they Alloy ring? where you get them from?

You can't go wrong with B+W MRCs. For RM50 more you may opt for their XS-Pro which is the slim type.

where to get it from?

Some interesting charts

Plain Glass.


B+W 72mm 010M UV-Haze MRC Slim.


Hoya 72 mm HMC UV-0.



What info can you get from the charts?

20 Filter Comparison <-- More info here.

Hoya is the best

u sure hoya? I think, it is B+W 72mm 010M UV-Haze MRC in UV .. .. 0 for less than 320nm while small amount for hoya uv ..

I am getting b+w uv today .. ..

Kindly post the before and after 200 ringgit plus damage pics.

p/s- Err ... normal scenery pics please ... dun wan pic of fluorescent tube la

aiseh, tak ada Hoya HD ka... highest range of Hoya

u can see from the test that some filters like Tiffen and King can really introduce more flare

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Added on June 30, 2009, 10:39 amhahaha, it was at night, my only source of light for flare is fluorescent

i still don't get why one part of the tube was yellow and not both sides since the tube is round...

This post has been edited by Vincent Pang: Jun 30 2009, 10:39 AM

Maybe the shop in Poland dun have the HD. But what is interesting is that the Hoya HMC, the cheapest of the Hoya, is no different than the Digital Pro 1 with regard to IQ. What is also interesting is that the Hoya HMC is rated last in your fluorescent tube test.

Some knowledge of an SLR's focal-plane shutter would help explain that. chucky mentioned this earlier.

Normally, your first shutter opens, exposes the scene for N seconds, and the second shutter closes after it. Let's say it takes 1/100s for a shutter to open and close across the frame.

What happens if you take a 1s exposure? The first shutter opens, and one second after, the second shutter closes.

What happens if you take a 1/200s exposure? The first shutter opens, and 1/200s after, the second shutter closes.

What's the difference? In the 1/200s case, the first shutter is still opening halfway as the second shutter is closing. So at any one time, only a maximum of half the frame is exposed. In addition, one side of the frame is delayed from the other side.

Like this:


So when you took that photo, you managed to capture varying phases of the fluroscent light phosphors in a single frame. One side of the light is yellow and the other not as a consequence of 1) the shutter exposing your photo in a horizontal slit moving down/upwards, and 2) your diagonal orientation of the lights.

In short, there's a solid reason explaining why your photos turned out that way, and it doesn't have anything to do with the filters.

Here ya go - http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Focal_plane_shutter

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Added on June 30, 2009, 11:48 am1. Only matters if you're doing high speed shooting.

2. Electronic ballasts for fluorescent lights switch at about 20,000Hz. They're more energy efficient and have instant startup too

haha .. with your statement above, u made me think twice to get an expensive or cheap one .. haha .. .. since I own b+w CPL 67mm and dont use it more than 5 minutes since the day I got it a month, I will trade in it with 2 uvs filter with additional RM140, b+w 010m uv haze mrc, 1 is for 77mm and another for 67mm .. .. a good deal i think .. ..

Clubsnap here is the link. I got my B+W from him, plan to get a slim KSM CPL next month.

aiks ... so far away