Leopard Geckos
-rfadventures.
What are these beauties anyway?
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-Leopard geckos belong to the Eublepharide family. The geckos in this family have moveable eyelids but lack the toe pads. Another common
member of this family are the African fat-tailed geckos (Hemitheconyx caudicinctus).
-This gecko is naturally found throughout the northern parts of India, Pakistan as well as Afghanistan. Although some geckos may be wild-caught and imported from these areas, most of what is available in the pet trade are captive-bred specimens.
-They inhabit the rocky desert and savanna regions which generally tend to be arid in nature. The natural substrate is hardened clay with light sand coverings.
=-Leopard geckos are nocturnal by nature which means they are more active during the night time hours.
member of this family are the African fat-tailed geckos (Hemitheconyx caudicinctus).
-This gecko is naturally found throughout the northern parts of India, Pakistan as well as Afghanistan. Although some geckos may be wild-caught and imported from these areas, most of what is available in the pet trade are captive-bred specimens.
-They inhabit the rocky desert and savanna regions which generally tend to be arid in nature. The natural substrate is hardened clay with light sand coverings.
=-Leopard geckos are nocturnal by nature which means they are more active during the night time hours.
Size and Life expectancy
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-Unlike other gecko species, leopard geckos can actually live a long time. Under ideal captive conditions, leopard geckos can live up to and over 20 years, with males typically living longer than females.
-Hatchling leopard geckos are approximately 3-3.5 inches in length and typically weigh around 3grams.
-On average, adult leopard geckos are just over 8 inches in length and typically weigh around 45-60grams. Of course, there are always exceptions to these rules.
-Hatchling leopard geckos grow very quickly and can reach full adult size by 18 months of age!
-Hatchling leopard geckos are approximately 3-3.5 inches in length and typically weigh around 3grams.
-On average, adult leopard geckos are just over 8 inches in length and typically weigh around 45-60grams. Of course, there are always exceptions to these rules.
-Hatchling leopard geckos grow very quickly and can reach full adult size by 18 months of age!
How to sex a leopard gecko
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When looking at leopard gecko from above, both males and females tend to look pretty much the same. So how do you sex a leopard gecko then? It can take a trained eye to accurately sex a hatchling. It is much easier for most people to accurately sex a sexually mature adult (or with some training, even a juvenile).
Males
-repticzone.com
-Pre-anal pores that form a "V" directly above the vent between the rear legs.
-Readily visible pores may excrete a waxy substance from them.
-Pair of hemipenile bulges at the base of the tail on the underside of the gecko.
-Heads appear to be broader.
-Bodies tend to be bulkier.
Females
-repticzone.com
-Pre-anal pits directly above the vent between the rear legs.
-No secretions from the pits.
-Lack of hemipenile bulges at the base of the tail on the underside of the gecko.
-Head not as broad as males.
-Bodies tend not to be as bulky.
Males
-repticzone.com
-Pre-anal pores that form a "V" directly above the vent between the rear legs.
-Readily visible pores may excrete a waxy substance from them.
-Pair of hemipenile bulges at the base of the tail on the underside of the gecko.
-Heads appear to be broader.
-Bodies tend to be bulkier.
Females
-repticzone.com
-Pre-anal pits directly above the vent between the rear legs.
-No secretions from the pits.
-Lack of hemipenile bulges at the base of the tail on the underside of the gecko.
-Head not as broad as males.
-Bodies tend not to be as bulky.
Leopard Geckos as Pets
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Leopard geckos are quickly becoming one of the most popular reptiles kept as pets. They have many different qualities that appeal to pet keepers. These can include:
-Relatively easy to care when compared to some other larger reptiles such as iguanas and even other diurnal reptiles. Keep in mind that no reptile is truly easy to care for - in order to raise a healthy and happy pet, you have to be sure to do all the necessary care research in advance and have acquired the necessary knowledge, understanding and supplies.
-The large variety of different colours and patterns that are available.
-They are readily available in most places all year.
-Perfect size for periodic handling.
-Lower space requirements when compared to some other larger reptiles.
-Fairly docile and gentle overall temperment.
-Relatively easy to care when compared to some other larger reptiles such as iguanas and even other diurnal reptiles. Keep in mind that no reptile is truly easy to care for - in order to raise a healthy and happy pet, you have to be sure to do all the necessary care research in advance and have acquired the necessary knowledge, understanding and supplies.
-The large variety of different colours and patterns that are available.
-They are readily available in most places all year.
-Perfect size for periodic handling.
-Lower space requirements when compared to some other larger reptiles.
-Fairly docile and gentle overall temperment.
Now, so you're interested in a leopard gecko but where do I start?
Any one with common sense would of course tell you to do your research on these animals before you make them your pets.
Selecting a leopard gecko
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Taking the time to select the right gecko for you is a key factor in determining your success of keeping a leopard gecko as a pet if that is the route you have decided to go. There are so many different options available and things to take into consideration.
* How old of a gecko do you want? If this is your first reptile pet, you might want to consider purchasing an established juvenile, sub-adult or even an adult gecko. Sometimes hatchlings can be a bit more difficult to raise.
* Are you looking for a male or female leopard gecko? This may only be important to you if you are thinking about breeding leopard geckos down the road. Males can periodically be a bit more expensive to purchase and not as easy to find sometimes. The average life expectancy of male geckos tends to be a bit higher than that of female geckos.
* There is a large amount of different colours and patterns available in leopard geckos that you can choose from. Which one appeals most to you? Keep in mind that if you are purchasing a hatchling, it will change its colours/patterns substantially before becoming an adult.
* How much money are you willing to spend? The older the gecko, the more expensive it might be. There are some exceptions to this rule such as retired breeding geckos for example.
* Most of the leopard geckos in the pet trade are captive-bred species but sometimes you do come across wild-caught ones. Chances are the captive bred may be healthier and will adjust quicker to a new home / lifestyle.
* Do you want a gecko that is suffering from potential health problems? Are you prepared to take on the challenge and expense of rehabilitating a potentially sick reptile? Many people find this extremely rewarding while others may not want to go through something like that. Refer to the Checklist Of A Healthy Gecko for help!
* How old of a gecko do you want? If this is your first reptile pet, you might want to consider purchasing an established juvenile, sub-adult or even an adult gecko. Sometimes hatchlings can be a bit more difficult to raise.
* Are you looking for a male or female leopard gecko? This may only be important to you if you are thinking about breeding leopard geckos down the road. Males can periodically be a bit more expensive to purchase and not as easy to find sometimes. The average life expectancy of male geckos tends to be a bit higher than that of female geckos.
* There is a large amount of different colours and patterns available in leopard geckos that you can choose from. Which one appeals most to you? Keep in mind that if you are purchasing a hatchling, it will change its colours/patterns substantially before becoming an adult.
* How much money are you willing to spend? The older the gecko, the more expensive it might be. There are some exceptions to this rule such as retired breeding geckos for example.
* Most of the leopard geckos in the pet trade are captive-bred species but sometimes you do come across wild-caught ones. Chances are the captive bred may be healthier and will adjust quicker to a new home / lifestyle.
* Do you want a gecko that is suffering from potential health problems? Are you prepared to take on the challenge and expense of rehabilitating a potentially sick reptile? Many people find this extremely rewarding while others may not want to go through something like that. Refer to the Checklist Of A Healthy Gecko for help!
Checklist Of A Healthy Gecko
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This checklist includes those qualities that are to be found in a healthy leopard gecko. Use this checklist when you are looking to purchase a leopard gecko and be sure to refer to it during the quarantine period after you first acquire the gecko.
Eyes
_____ Bright and clear
_____ No drooping or swollen eyelids
_____ No discharge, tearing or crusting residue
Mouth & Jaw
_____ No cheesy or foaming mucus discharge
_____ Not hanging open
_____ Firm
Nose
_____ No mucus discharge
Vent
_____ No unusual swelling
_____ No dried, dark stains
Stools
_____ Feces should be brown to black
_____ Urates whitish and solid/pasty in consistency
_____ No loose or runny stools
_____ No discoloured stools
_____ No pungent/sour/strong odor to stools
Overall Body
_____ Rounded thighs and calves
_____ Skin should be tight with few skin folds
_____ No open sores or blisters
_____ No evidence of mites or ticks
_____Tail is complete; no missing digits
_____ No evidence of runny stools
_____ Stomach should be fat and full
Overall Appearance
_____ Gives impression of vigor
_____ Good muscle tone
_____ Good weight
_____ Frisky and alert
Eyes
_____ Bright and clear
_____ No drooping or swollen eyelids
_____ No discharge, tearing or crusting residue
Mouth & Jaw
_____ No cheesy or foaming mucus discharge
_____ Not hanging open
_____ Firm
Nose
_____ No mucus discharge
Vent
_____ No unusual swelling
_____ No dried, dark stains
Stools
_____ Feces should be brown to black
_____ Urates whitish and solid/pasty in consistency
_____ No loose or runny stools
_____ No discoloured stools
_____ No pungent/sour/strong odor to stools
Overall Body
_____ Rounded thighs and calves
_____ Skin should be tight with few skin folds
_____ No open sores or blisters
_____ No evidence of mites or ticks
_____Tail is complete; no missing digits
_____ No evidence of runny stools
_____ Stomach should be fat and full
Overall Appearance
_____ Gives impression of vigor
_____ Good muscle tone
_____ Good weight
_____ Frisky and alert
Common Medical Conditions and Health Problems
Since it's too much of a hassle to transport everything here. I'll just link it. :]
http://www.drgecko.com/problems.htm
Housing
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Leopard geckos are relatively easy pets to care for, providing you recognize that they have specific environmental needs. To raise a happy and healthy gecko, you must ensure the proper provision of all these essential environmental factors.
IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT you have the proper environment set up BEFORE you bring your new leopard gecko home. I mean you don't wanna bring your gecko home to nothing right? Always prepare before you purchase your gecko so that your gecko can come home to a nice safe environment for it to spend it's life in.
Cage Decoration And Furniture
Size Considerations
Substrate-VERY IMPORTANT
IT IS RECOMMENDED THAT you have the proper environment set up BEFORE you bring your new leopard gecko home. I mean you don't wanna bring your gecko home to nothing right? Always prepare before you purchase your gecko so that your gecko can come home to a nice safe environment for it to spend it's life in.
Cage Decoration And Furniture
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The overall health of your leopard gecko will be the result of how well you actually manage its captive environment, including the provision of the necessary cage decorations (i.e. habitat items).
* Geckos will fare fine in a basic enclosure with just substrate, hiding areas and a water dish. More elaborately decorated enclosures tend to allow the gecko to explore more of its natural behaviors.
The design of the interior of the enclosure should take into consideration the basic needs of the leopard gecko:
* Hiding areas
* Activity areas
Hiding areas:
* You should have at least two hides in the enclosure at varying distances from your heat source.
* Always have one humidified shelter in the enclosure which should ideally be at the warm end of the enclosure.
* Never put a hide directly beneath a heat source!
* There are a seemingly endless supply of types of hides that you can use that include: overlapping rocks, wood or cork bark sections, commercial shelters, inverted clay pots, curved roof tiles etc...
* If you have multiple geckos in a single enclosure, be sure to provide an ample amount of appropriate hides.
* Horizontal shelters can be placed right over the substrate.
Activity areas:
* There should always be some open space for your gecko to roam around in.
* Activity areas can also include some rocks or wood that the gecko can climb over and under to stratify its environment.
Types of Enclosures
All glass aquariums:
* The most common type of enclosure used with leopard geckos.
* Be sure to purchase a secure-fitting screen top.
* Sliding glass fronts can make your life much easier in terms of maintenance and access to the enclosure. They can also be less stressful on the gecko - hands coming down onto a gecko may be perceived as a predator.
* Ensure that the gecko cannot escape.
Plastic aquariums:
* These enclosures are not suitable for housing leopard geckos.
* They are typically too small and the plastic will melt when exposed to heat.
* Can be used for housing your feeder insects or transporting your gecko.
Plastic storage boxes:
* Breeders typically use shoe and/or sweater boxes to house their collections and hatchlings.
* Be sure to put the necessary ventilation holes in the sides and/or top. This can be done using a drill or a wood-burning tool.
* These enclosures are typically set on shelves that have recessed heat tape on them which runs the length of the shelf under the boxes. The heat tape should be controlled by some sort of a thermostat or rheostat.
Custom-built enclosures:
* Can be constructed out of a combination of glass, wood or even melamine.
* Some design/construction guidelines to keep in mind - health and safety concerns for leopard geckos.
* Geckos will fare fine in a basic enclosure with just substrate, hiding areas and a water dish. More elaborately decorated enclosures tend to allow the gecko to explore more of its natural behaviors.
The design of the interior of the enclosure should take into consideration the basic needs of the leopard gecko:
* Hiding areas
* Activity areas
Hiding areas:
* You should have at least two hides in the enclosure at varying distances from your heat source.
* Always have one humidified shelter in the enclosure which should ideally be at the warm end of the enclosure.
* Never put a hide directly beneath a heat source!
* There are a seemingly endless supply of types of hides that you can use that include: overlapping rocks, wood or cork bark sections, commercial shelters, inverted clay pots, curved roof tiles etc...
* If you have multiple geckos in a single enclosure, be sure to provide an ample amount of appropriate hides.
* Horizontal shelters can be placed right over the substrate.
Activity areas:
* There should always be some open space for your gecko to roam around in.
* Activity areas can also include some rocks or wood that the gecko can climb over and under to stratify its environment.
Types of Enclosures
All glass aquariums:
* The most common type of enclosure used with leopard geckos.
* Be sure to purchase a secure-fitting screen top.
* Sliding glass fronts can make your life much easier in terms of maintenance and access to the enclosure. They can also be less stressful on the gecko - hands coming down onto a gecko may be perceived as a predator.
* Ensure that the gecko cannot escape.
Plastic aquariums:
* These enclosures are not suitable for housing leopard geckos.
* They are typically too small and the plastic will melt when exposed to heat.
* Can be used for housing your feeder insects or transporting your gecko.
Plastic storage boxes:
* Breeders typically use shoe and/or sweater boxes to house their collections and hatchlings.
* Be sure to put the necessary ventilation holes in the sides and/or top. This can be done using a drill or a wood-burning tool.
* These enclosures are typically set on shelves that have recessed heat tape on them which runs the length of the shelf under the boxes. The heat tape should be controlled by some sort of a thermostat or rheostat.
Custom-built enclosures:
* Can be constructed out of a combination of glass, wood or even melamine.
* Some design/construction guidelines to keep in mind - health and safety concerns for leopard geckos.
Size Considerations
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When choosing the most appropriately sized enclosure for your leopard gecko, always keep its overall quality of life in mind. How would you like to be stuck in an overcrowded bathroom for the rest of your life?
* Floor space is more important that height because leopard geckos are primarily terrestrial by nature.
* Most individuals will keep a single gecko in a 20gal enclosure without any problems.
* Hatchlings can be raised in 10gal enclosures or even plastic shoe/sweater boxes.
Some standard size guidelines used in the reptile keeping community include:
* The length of the enclosure should be at least 4 times the total length of the gecko and at least 1.5 times the total length of the gecko for the width.
* Should you decide to house multiple geckos together you should add at least 1/3 - 1/2 this size per gecko.
* Floor space is more important that height because leopard geckos are primarily terrestrial by nature.
* Most individuals will keep a single gecko in a 20gal enclosure without any problems.
* Hatchlings can be raised in 10gal enclosures or even plastic shoe/sweater boxes.
Some standard size guidelines used in the reptile keeping community include:
* The length of the enclosure should be at least 4 times the total length of the gecko and at least 1.5 times the total length of the gecko for the width.
* Should you decide to house multiple geckos together you should add at least 1/3 - 1/2 this size per gecko.
Substrate-VERY IMPORTANT
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Substrates To Consider
Here are some of the more commonly used substrates:
* Newspaper
* Butcher paper.
* Paper towels.
* Indoor-outdoor carpeting.
* Inkless newspaper
* Slate rock.
* Tiles
Substrates To Avoid
* Cedar, pine or other wood shavings.
* Hardwood chips.
* Gravel
* Crushed corn cob.
* Crushed walnut shells.
* Kitty litter.
* Bark chips.
* Sawdust
* Potting soil with perlite (little white balls).
* SAND. Causes impaction.
Here are some of the more commonly used substrates:
* Newspaper
* Butcher paper.
* Paper towels.
* Indoor-outdoor carpeting.
* Inkless newspaper
* Slate rock.
* Tiles
Substrates To Avoid
* Cedar, pine or other wood shavings.
* Hardwood chips.
* Gravel
* Crushed corn cob.
* Crushed walnut shells.
* Kitty litter.
* Bark chips.
* Sawdust
* Potting soil with perlite (little white balls).
* SAND. Causes impaction.
Feeding your gecko
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Basic Guidelines
* Do not offer dead insects as food to your gecko (although you can safely use the commercially available prepared and pre-killed insects).
* Never feed insects that have been exposed to any sort of chemical such as insecticides, herbicides or pesticides (to name but a few).
* Do not feed insects to your gecko that have come from a colony that has been contaminated with mold. This can lead to serious health problems (such as bacterial infections) - even death.
Type Of Prey Items
# Commercial house crickets (Acheta domesticus)
# Black field crickets (Gryllus domesticus)
# Mealworms (Tenebrio molitor)
# Superworms (Zophobas mario)
# Silkworms (Bombyx mori)
# Locusts (Melanopus spp.)
# Cockroaches (Blaberus cranifer, etc...)
Size Of Prey Items
* Try and offer more smaller prey items, than fewer larger ones. The smaller ones tend to be more nutritious and easier to digest.
* Ideally the width of the insect should be no more than 1/2 the width of the gecko's head. The length of the insect should ideally be no longer than the length of the gecko's head.
Supplementation
Always supplement your feeders once or twice a week for adults and more often for hatchlings and juvies with calcium and vitamins.
Leopard geckos are prone to MBD.
There are many brands of calcium and vitamins for leopard geckos that you can find out there. These products are essential for your gecko's health!
Gutloading
You are what you eat. And that applies to all. Meaning? Simple, the feeders that you feed to your pets have to be kept healthy too. This means gutloading your feeders. What is gutloading? Gutloading is the simple act of feeding your feeders nutritious foods so that when they are fed to your pet, your pet gets the most nutrition out of it.
The concept is as simple as us humans eating healthy foods rather than junk foods.
You can gutload your feeders with a variety of foods.
Water
Always provide fresh water for your geckos. You never know when they need them. Leopard geckos come from dry regions and most of their moisture comes from the feeders they eat. But IT IS A NECESSITY to provide them with fresh water everyday to keep them from dehydrating when they need it and a lot of other reasons.
Provide your water in a suitable bowl or bottle cap so that your leopard gecko has easy access to it.
* Do not offer dead insects as food to your gecko (although you can safely use the commercially available prepared and pre-killed insects).
* Never feed insects that have been exposed to any sort of chemical such as insecticides, herbicides or pesticides (to name but a few).
* Do not feed insects to your gecko that have come from a colony that has been contaminated with mold. This can lead to serious health problems (such as bacterial infections) - even death.
Type Of Prey Items
# Commercial house crickets (Acheta domesticus)
# Black field crickets (Gryllus domesticus)
# Mealworms (Tenebrio molitor)
# Superworms (Zophobas mario)
# Silkworms (Bombyx mori)
# Locusts (Melanopus spp.)
# Cockroaches (Blaberus cranifer, etc...)
Size Of Prey Items
* Try and offer more smaller prey items, than fewer larger ones. The smaller ones tend to be more nutritious and easier to digest.
* Ideally the width of the insect should be no more than 1/2 the width of the gecko's head. The length of the insect should ideally be no longer than the length of the gecko's head.
Supplementation
Always supplement your feeders once or twice a week for adults and more often for hatchlings and juvies with calcium and vitamins.
Leopard geckos are prone to MBD.
There are many brands of calcium and vitamins for leopard geckos that you can find out there. These products are essential for your gecko's health!
Gutloading
You are what you eat. And that applies to all. Meaning? Simple, the feeders that you feed to your pets have to be kept healthy too. This means gutloading your feeders. What is gutloading? Gutloading is the simple act of feeding your feeders nutritious foods so that when they are fed to your pet, your pet gets the most nutrition out of it.
The concept is as simple as us humans eating healthy foods rather than junk foods.
You can gutload your feeders with a variety of foods.
Water
Always provide fresh water for your geckos. You never know when they need them. Leopard geckos come from dry regions and most of their moisture comes from the feeders they eat. But IT IS A NECESSITY to provide them with fresh water everyday to keep them from dehydrating when they need it and a lot of other reasons.
Provide your water in a suitable bowl or bottle cap so that your leopard gecko has easy access to it.
Humid hides
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Humid hides are pretty important in aiding a leopard gecko shed.
They need high levels of humidity to help them shed therefore the humid hide does really comes well in handy.
How to make a humid hide you ask?
Simple, just follow these steps.
1. Take a tupperware container, a good one that can last you some time and cut a hole at one of the sides.
2. Aline the insides of the container with damp paper towels.
3. Put back the lid and place it upside down in your enclosure. AND TADA YOU ARE DONE.
Be sure to mist the container every once in awhile to keep it moist.
I prefer to use paper towels as moss and other stuff are messy and your gecko may eat it and cause other unnecessary problems.
Why take the risk right?
Here's a link to making a humid hide
http://www.stoplightcityleopardgeckos.com/...gahumidhide.htm
They need high levels of humidity to help them shed therefore the humid hide does really comes well in handy.
How to make a humid hide you ask?
Simple, just follow these steps.
1. Take a tupperware container, a good one that can last you some time and cut a hole at one of the sides.
2. Aline the insides of the container with damp paper towels.
3. Put back the lid and place it upside down in your enclosure. AND TADA YOU ARE DONE.
Be sure to mist the container every once in awhile to keep it moist.
I prefer to use paper towels as moss and other stuff are messy and your gecko may eat it and cause other unnecessary problems.
Why take the risk right?
Here's a link to making a humid hide
http://www.stoplightcityleopardgeckos.com/...gahumidhide.htm
Shedding
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# Leopard geckos go through regular periods of shedding which is also known as ecydsis.
# These geckos will shed their entire body all at once and not in individual pieces.
# Geckos should have some type of a rough surface in their enclosure to assist with the shedding process (avoid porous rocks through such as lava).
# As the gecko goes through the shed cycle, the skin will become dull and take on a milky hue. The old skin will eventually start to peel off with a little bit of help from the gecko.
# Most geckos will then eat the shed skin (dermatophagy). During this period, they will most likely not take any food.
# Once the gecko has shed, its colours are vibrant and bright once again.
# The rate of shedding will depend on:
- Age of the gecko.
- Reproductive status.
- Rate of growth. - Parasites.
- Environmental factors. - Hormones.
- Nutritional factors. - Infection (bacterial, viral or fungal)
# These geckos will shed their entire body all at once and not in individual pieces.
# Geckos should have some type of a rough surface in their enclosure to assist with the shedding process (avoid porous rocks through such as lava).
# As the gecko goes through the shed cycle, the skin will become dull and take on a milky hue. The old skin will eventually start to peel off with a little bit of help from the gecko.
# Most geckos will then eat the shed skin (dermatophagy). During this period, they will most likely not take any food.
# Once the gecko has shed, its colours are vibrant and bright once again.
# The rate of shedding will depend on:
- Age of the gecko.
- Reproductive status.
- Rate of growth. - Parasites.
- Environmental factors. - Hormones.
- Nutritional factors. - Infection (bacterial, viral or fungal)
Handling
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* Although leopard geckos tend to be very trusting and many adults can be quite calm with gentle and regular handling, extensive handling is not recommended. Occasional handling is preferable for adults.
* Minimal handling of hatchlings and juvenile leopard geckos is recommended because they tend to be more delicate and nervous than adults. They tend to bolt suddenly and panic more than adults.
* Leopard geckos typically make very deliberate and slow movements - especially in adults.
* They tend to be quite calm as pets when they are handled for short periods of time regularly.
* Ensure proper personal hygiene before and after handling your gecko.
* Always supervise children closely when they are around or handling the gecko.
* Try to approach the gecko from the front and at the same level as opposed to coming at it from above which it may perceive as a predator.
* Place your hand in the enclosure and allow the gecko to walk onto it on its own. Some people lure the gecko over with talking softly to it, offering a treat or even some very gentle persuasion with their free hand.
* One can build up the trust level by periodically hand-feeding the gecko.
* Leopard geckos do not tolerate leashes! When put in a leash, most will flail, spin and will entangle themselves in it. A leash creates a stressful situation for a gecko!
* Minimal handling of hatchlings and juvenile leopard geckos is recommended because they tend to be more delicate and nervous than adults. They tend to bolt suddenly and panic more than adults.
* Leopard geckos typically make very deliberate and slow movements - especially in adults.
* They tend to be quite calm as pets when they are handled for short periods of time regularly.
* Ensure proper personal hygiene before and after handling your gecko.
* Always supervise children closely when they are around or handling the gecko.
* Try to approach the gecko from the front and at the same level as opposed to coming at it from above which it may perceive as a predator.
* Place your hand in the enclosure and allow the gecko to walk onto it on its own. Some people lure the gecko over with talking softly to it, offering a treat or even some very gentle persuasion with their free hand.
* One can build up the trust level by periodically hand-feeding the gecko.
* Leopard geckos do not tolerate leashes! When put in a leash, most will flail, spin and will entangle themselves in it. A leash creates a stressful situation for a gecko!
Leopard geckos are nocturnal, so you won't see your gecko during the day and mostly at night. They tend to sleep during the day and hide a lot.
Please don't stress your gecko out by removing the hides when they are sleeping. Only when necessary.
Important NOTES
1. DO NOT house 2 males in the same tank. Leopard geckos are territorial and will fight!
2. Housing 1 male with females is alright but they might fight and stress out over food and hiding places.
3. SAND is bad. It has been proven that is causes impaction. This is because when a gecko hunts, it will strike at its prey. This might cause some accidental swallowing of sand and it cannot be digested.
4. Leopard geckos ARE DA BOMB.
5. Supplements are never bad.
6. Gutload your feeders!
7. LOVE them with your heart.
Sources-
dr.gecko
reptilezone.
. Thanks~~
nug paiseh lar wanna sell tht to u ...coaz tht terrarium hav so many error ...
