CTRL-ALT-DEL... stuck at DFI Dark logo... OMG

It seems like not me alone suffering this problem . Neway, I already permitted to do 1 on 1 HDD swap this Sat and I'll change the Seagate 500GB HDD, really suspecting it's faulty . Now I'm running on previous Samsung 120GB SATA HDD, managed to install Windows and running on SATA port 0. However, few hours later BSOD appear when I'm downloading a file from the Internet and then the CTRL-ALT-DEL and DFI Dark logo stuck symptom appear. Switched to SATA port 1 with different SATA cable and it works .

Did another reformat once again and it's all up till now on SATA port 1. Man... apa macam ni?



My budget only allow me up till DK version, and that also actually overbudget actually

Could it be the DRAM problem? I already loosen mine to 5-5-5-18 @1.8V



OS... lesser possibility I guess...

kekeke now smell sum1 gonna change to mars dy

MARS, The Next Frontier!

Planning to get a 120mm fan replacement for my Thermaltake's Tsunami front intake... any good recommendation which I can get at LowYat or buy it from bulk?

one of the best 120mm fan with fan controller is silverstone fm123..but for ur front intake..i guess normal 120mm fan will do oledi

@acecombat,

can show us how to mount true120 vertically?

i try once but just can't fit in........

@vearn27
bro,i using Asus SATA cable actually,if u using DFI SATA cable,got this kind of problme or not?
now i no have this kind of problme anymore,but i found out one thing very nice,if i purosely shut down my pc (unplug power chord) and i boot again,it will stuck at the logo screen and wont POST,even i restart also cannot POST,then if i change sata port,then will post,then i try again,if u no change sata port and reset bios,then ok liao.
i think there is something related to HDD or ICH9R controller.

@mfcm,remysix
2 good buddy told me to go to Mars kah?
anyway,no like Mars,i still prefer my Asus P5K-Premium,wait it RMA back then i will switch back to it and sell this DFI.

@Albert
will post later,wait for it,within today.

Premium version hence the price
no more budget maa...now i'm gonna have 3 P35 mobo...DQ6, DK and MARS (coming)...havent RMA the DQ6 yet...
later la join ASUS clan

@ace
im referin remysix..hehe
btw bro the tru120 u align totally ventrical?or abit senget/condong to avoid the nb hsf?

@vearn
delta oso gud..but abit noise..NMB Scynthe oso got include SS fan..huhu check my siggy if u looking for delta

i just get a 40mm as moderno recommend hehe
for my south bridge...
but the airflow damn slow la...
btw price oni rm10
but at jalan pasar with my black gold fish hehe ^^
now the north bridge any active cooler for that hottie?

---

Added on February 23, 2008, 10:50 pm

bro i selling mine ler...

NB try HR05 SLI/IFX loh boss

new beta bios is available, 13/2/08

http://us.dfi.com.tw/Support/Download/bios..._FLAG=B&SITE=US

Yeah, doesn't need any fancy or special over that front 120mm intake that no one will be able to see. Any good recommendation from you?

I went to LYP yesterday and saw that Evercool's Full Alu at RM35, then another one Vizo. Beside these two brands, I only meet "Aku Comel" .

Izzit good durability will be "dual-ball bearing"?



Yeah, I'm using the UV reactive SATA cables which came from the bundle of the LP DK. Hmm... I just got my 500GB HDD changed yesterday and will install it on Tuesday because these two days I'll be busy rushing my assignments . I twisted my SATA cables using pen like most ppl do, I do wonder if I had them too hard till I break the internal wires? Impossible, isn't?

BTW, now I'm running on AHCI mode with my Samsung 120GB and will do the same for my 500GB as well . Boleh hot-swap while the Windows is running .



Saya noob pasal casing punya kipas... CFM la... ball bearing la... magnetic ball bearing la... dual-ball bearing la... pa benda tu?

@tapirus

could you post a picture of your TRUE120 on this DK?

No wonder la Moderno didnt answer any of my calls, he's been busy overclocking his new baby......!!

any model beside that moderno?
since i use gemini2 maybe cannot fit in
so sad...
i dun want buy another cooler...
i got the gemini2 at rm100 oni
hehe

2008/02/13 :

Major Reasons of Change:
Added VTT Voltage control for Intel 45nm CPUs.

guess dont need that one yet as i'm still on E2140..ehehe..my underpants sweat during flashing to the 24/12/07 previously...ahaha



saturday gua cuti bang ...tepon tertinggal kat kedai ..got to spent some quality time a bit with my lady



i dunno if CM Blue Ice Pro is adequate in replacing the stocks NB heatsink...



or Zalman ZM-NBF47 (passive)

bro ace,

we want pictar for your dk+true...

pictar-pictar-pictar................

interesting bios update details.
adding vtt control over penryn..........i'll try that out soon with my e8400 and see

and albert, u still didnt answer my tiny question...where did u get ur e8400 from?

try oc my quad on stock HSF
plan to grab CM hyper212 today..

change i made :
- FSB
- 1:1
- 4-4-4-12
- 8x multiplier
- default VTT and VID(i still dunno wut the hell is this)
- other settings also default



which software read the right temp?

Use the latest version of "Core Temp".....

it's 0.96.1..not latest yet?

Hehe..... at work... slow internet.... didn't see your attachment....

Yeah, 0.96.1 is the latest...... Your temps are high la.....

yeah..i know..they are high...no cooler yet..haha

max budget RM200..CM hyper212 is my target coz read a review quite close to TRUE120..any other suggestion?

Save another RM50 can get the TRUE ma....

Dunno about the hyper212 but I would recommend the Xigmatek S1283 for a max budget of RM200....

Now I don't really think I applied my Tuniq TX-2 wrongly or having a bad casing air flow... I moved my rig to another place for some work... and this is my temperature under a normal air-con room



Ambient temperature really play a huge role

how's ur temp before dude?

For me, RM 200 i'll grab the Thermalright Ultima 90i, Fit it with an Evercool Aluminium 92mm fan, looks nice.

Currently my temps is similar to the TRUE120 on the Ultima 90i. But not sure if the Ultima 90i is good for Quaddies or not.

Usually at home... beside the living area... under a ceiling fan... the temperature will be:



Man... what a huge different it is... nearly 10⁰C!!!

Q6600 G0 2.4Ghz 1.2v idle vs 3.5Ghz 1.43v idle, temp difference only 4c in air-con room.



@vearn27
Try OC your proc.

Wa... you got some very good temperature reading compared to mine here which running at stock at the moment

funeral arrangements for ram predicted within the next few months..

@xenO, any active cooling for your crucial tracer?

the CPUTIN supposed to to be the cpu temp rite...mmm...how come ur cores temperature lower than ur cpu temp

why? i saw it has EPP..so, i cant use that one?



this one is not tracer version..and no active cooling..
like i said..just try to oc for a temporary
BTW, if i let it be..wut happen?

ermm..i got double posting when i wanna turn on my rig..normal? i'm using factory default bios..

Just don't know if you OC your proc, what temp you will be getting. Curious. What's your method for applying your HSF?


No idea if the reading is accurate or not. My casing is full with high CFM fans.

its the black pcb right..
thats a low latency pcb..

try not to go more than ure default voltage
if u want to run 2.2v.. use active cooling on it.

many ppl dont know that D9's are not suppose to be running more than 55-60C.

Here's mine. I don't have to set anything as it comes out with all the CPU/PWM/Chipset temp.....

All parameters at load, running 2x SMP clients....

hmm..thanks for the info...
but im not sure its black pcb..looks dark green to me...

---

Added on February 26, 2008, 10:23 am

ur HWMonitor are well labeled..mine HWMonitor shows TMPIN..dunno which one is PWM temp

yeah, same like mine...where to change? any .ini file or something?

Dunno leh.... mine don't have to change anything.... how come your DFI doesn't indicate the proper parameters? It's supposed to be better than my DFI blood iron ma....

guys give me ur opinion...

which 1 i should believe as my stock vcore..

core temp give = 1.35

IDLE :

everest = 1.34
cpu-z = 1.34
bios detect = 1.32
Smart Guardian = 1.34



when i orthos :-

everest detect = 1.31
cpu-z detect = 1.31
Smart Guardian = 1.31



i'm using new bios 13/2/08..

at bios when i set +50mv it detect the actual i set 1.32+50mv = 1.37

when orthos it detect 1.36-1.37...

@gsan
ur vcore not much vdrop..ur bios which version???

Your stock vcore should be 1.3500v as indicated by the VID in core temp.

The rest is due to vdrop and vdroop.....

yeah.. which version of bios u guys are using now?
i'm not yet flash my bios..
how u guys flash it?? floppy? lol..i dun hv floppy

use winflash loh bro...

someone(dont wanna tell who, he got an issue in this thread ) stated that flashing the bios in windows mode is not good..can clarify this?

, i knew him...

anyway... it's not like "you absolutely cannot" flash BIOS in Windows, it's just that not recommended ... me myself in fact, use WinFlash

just make sure... you got 10 minutes solid electricity (no black out - unless you're flashing under thunderstorm)
stock setting... meaning, not in overclocked state...

wei his stock is not 1.35 mr. kmarc

thats i ve been telling u vid on core temp is base on acpi table..
his vid is wrong..

true vid is when u put ure proc into the mobo and leave at everything auto. .
thats when u get ure true vid which u can see from ure bios reading.

Really? I always thought core temp VID was the stock vcore....

Anyway, the mobo needs to "read" the information from somewhere right? To set the correct stock vcore? I always thought they "read" the correct stock vcore from the CPU......

What I mean is that the info is carried in the CPU..... plug in a Q6600, the mobo will set a certain vcore..... plug in a penryn, it will set a different vcore....

Where does the info come from, BTW, for the mobo to set the correct vcore? Not the ACPI table?

Note : I don't know much about VID and ACPI table and what not....