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Ok , PCCrazy, thanks for informing the rest of the changes. Anyway guys based on the article at systemcooling.com, it seems for ordinary loops, a good HMAX & QMAX pump is the recommended must have component when pairing with the Storm G4. Wonder how it'll do with lower end pumps with very short loops in the first place. Would be interesting to know once mine arrives. But I have a feeling that the Cyber Aqua would be able to give the G the muscle that it needs in the 1st place

I would like to know what you water-cooling veterans think of me teaming up a Zalman Reserator with a Storm CPU block ? ( standard Reserator pump )

Performance wise ? I've been reading alot about the Storm needing a powerful pump. Do you guys think my standard Reserator pump would do the job ?

If you are planning to use a reserator.... do try to look for a waterblock that would perform with low flow and low head, as in low QMax and low HMax
The pump in the resorator IMO is weak and definitely would not work very well when coupled with the g4.
If your planning to get a reserator....use its own block or IMO again, the swiftech mcw6002 would be a good option.

have a look at Here.

home theater liquid cooling system by TT...

omg...is cool
5*120mm fan

If you still wanna use the Reserator, I'd suggest finding a way to lose the pump and use a better specced pump cos you'll seriously choke the poor block of sufficient water. A low flow based block like MCW6000 series would suit better if you plan to keep everything stock instead

I've got a Reserator and I've just purchased the Storm. What if the loop is very short ( Reserator -> CPU -> Reserator ) I'm all for the aesthetics of my workstation, that's why I went for the Reserator cause I do not like see tubes and pump all over the place. What pump would be suitable to be placed inside the Reserator ? I want a pump that's small enough to fit inside the Reserator like the original pump inside.

Have anyone of you tried the standard Reserator with a Storm ?

Anyway, thanks for all the input. Cheers

Man. That has got to b the biggest rad around. N it looks damn good too. Imagine that rad with a big pump n the Storm block.



I think the best small pump to fit ure reserator yet with adequate specs for the Storm wud b the MCP350 with 4m head n 350lph flow. This is the minimum that Swiftech specs for the Storm. This is the pump in my Corsair Cool kit too. It's very small n quiet. I can't even hear the pump. What r the specs of ure reserator pump though?

i think u'll benefit more from the architecture of the storm G4 block with a more powerful pump... for a reserator it's better if u have some of the previous swiftech non restrictive blocks.. the G4s uses jet impingement design and are unlike previous MCW waterblocks..

it will work.. but not at full potential.. and maybe getting a MCW6000 block will yield better results instead

The MCP350(tm) 12 VDC Pump is rated at 350L/h
Maximum Integrated Water Pump for Reserator : 5 W, Qmax 300L/h
Maximum Lift : 0.5m dammit

Mind borrowing me for a day to see if it fits my Reserator




I guess you didn't read about the aesthetics part I'm all for looks. Having some Rad and 5 fans coupled with some huge pump sitting on my table just isn't my style for the minimalis in me

OMG this design is so stupid, waste so much of the pressure on goin against the gravity.

But if the inflow to the rad is from the top, wouldn't that create high pressure outflow at the bottom ?

Some pumps are build to run dry, if you submerge the MCP350. Prepare to RMA it. I think the best is still to change the whole setup. That is your best choice with the Storm block from Swiftech.

Btw can anyone confirm what Ohm variable resistor should I use for my MCP650 from voltage 7-12v? So far I know that I have to use 6 Ohm.

lol...better then someone...then good enough

both of the inlet and outlet is from the bottom which means it'll still loose pressure to the gravity.

instead of goin vertical, why not go horizontal ?

i think thermaltake is try to sell overrated products again.

0.5m lift? Phuiyoh, that really sux man. We swap lah. I pinjam u the pump, u pinjam me ure 20" ACD.




The Reserator uses submerged pump kah? Didn't know that. Ooooooops.

If only I didn't love my ACD so much, I would be happy to
I guess I'll go get the Swiftech one and mount it on my butt so there'll be less clutter on the table

Yes, like those aquarium filter pumps. Got diving licience, open water 50 meters

hey alln...still not done wit ur wc kit ah??i have been waiting so long for it la..

You have to find out what's the current rating for the pump at the moment. Easiest is to use the general formula of V = I x R to determine what's the required resistance range that would be sufficient for such an application

Yeah, got my friend to help out confirming the ohm for the resistor. Just need more confirmation here... Kiasu wei... RM300+ pump here i'm puting on the line...

Can't be helped. If I had one and I fried it, seriously gonna have a very long down time unless I'm willing to use AC pumps instead.

copper blocks are completed already and the rads will be completed within this week....]
but i still get that tygon tubing......hmm.......

Ocforums rheostat guide

Prodigy:I suppose the link above applies to your case since both a fan and a D5 are on dc motors.

According to the calcuation there,
this is what I've found
variable resistor of at least 4.286 ohms is required as following the calculation over at the link provided from the site that a D5 consumes 2amps and 12 vdc.

applying the calculation to d5
by the Ohm's law
12v = Imax * R pump
12v/2.0 = Rpump
Rpump = 6 ohms.

if pump @ 7v , Imin=?
7v= Imin *Rpump
It is known that the pump have a resistance of 6 ohms....
so,
Imin=7v/6ohm=7/6amps

therefore lowering 12v to 7v the diff of potential is 5v
5v = Imin*Rrheostat
so,
Rrheostat = 5v/(7/6)=4.286 OHMs
a rheostat of 4.286 ohms and above would do the trick...
the rheostat must also have a rating of at least 5.000 watts.
Wrheostat = Imin * Rrheostat = 4.286*(7/6)

I think if the bigger the ohm rating of the rheostat the less sensitive the rheostat is towards lowering the voltage, vice versa. The last time I went jalan pasar I was only able to get variable resistor of only 500 ohms the smallest rating .... prb I don't know how to look for them.
It make sense to me, and I hope it helps you and pls other gurus like amok do help on this topic

Thanks a million bro. So my best bet is still around 4-6ohm resistor. Also found out some ways to make the MCP650 pump flow rate better. Looks like I have to wait for the Storm block to reach then able to perform the mod.

My MCP350 pump just died on me this morning. Turned on my PC n went to make a cup of coffee. About 5 minutes later I came back to the PC with my cup of coffee n the PC hanged. Cudn't move the cursor. Then I looked at my Guru Clock n the temp was 80C! Immediately did a hard shutdown by pulling the plug. Thank god I only left the PC for bout 5 minutes. There's more bad news. The temp on the CPU water block was so hot that the tube deformed just enuf to start a leaky drip. After I pulled the plug. I opened the side panel to see what happened. There was coolant on my AGP slot, GC, PCI slots n even the bottom of the case had a pool of water. $HITE! Bloody hell man. I bought a branded kit so that I dont hafta kena nightmare like that n it still happens n only after having the kit for 2 months. What can I do dudes? Can I ask Cudo to exchange a different model pump for the warranty claim ah? No more confidence in the bloody MCP350. Supposed to b an industrial grade pump with 50000hour lifespan sumore.

I just spent the whole day stripping down the PC. Then used the hairdryer to dry all the components thoroughly for a few hours. Then reinstalled everything back with my TT Silent Tower n the stock 6800GT cooler. Crossed my fingers, prayed, booted up n luckily everything works just fine. Thank god my whole PC miraculously survived this horrible event. If it had happened while I was sleeping then the whole PC wud have died man.

My condolenses for your dearly departed pump.

Think of the bright side lor...at least the GODS of Hardware are watching over you and the rig survived.

Ps: But boss...please lar get rid of that "SilentTower"..it's just obscene.

This is why I've always preferred AC based pumps cos at least you have to power it up 1st and know that it runs in the 1st place. And also the fact that crappy gremlins of the PSU won't really affect you

Condolenses to you ianho... maybe ur MCP350 are the unlucky ones... Look at the bright side, hey there's MCP655 waiting for u ler..

ianho....sure or not?
i use same brand wit u ler...
asikk...u running 24/7?
but my "air besar" is running 24/7 loh...no problem at all...
corsair cool jus for OC saje, not yet try 24/7 running...

Looks like u got one of the rotten apples... that 50000 hour lifespan is MeanTimeBeforeFailure or something... so maybe yours just happens to be on the wrong side of mean? Just go swap it for a new one! Mention a few times that it caused your comp to get all wet and caused you undue mental anguish... maybe they'll throw in some freebies hahaha

any1 got storm yet ??

Aiyaaaa. What's wrong with the Silent Tower? It's good man. Idle n load temps almost as good as my water cooling kit. Just that the sound from the UFO fan is a killer. Loud as hell. Anyway, using it now to satisfy my cravings for my daily dose of games. God knows how long the RMA gonna take. From what I hear Cudo has a really good reputation in terms of customer service so I hope they change it for a better model or sumthin. If they give me another MCP350, I'm gonna throw a big fit in the office man. If I really don't get a better pump from Cudo then I'll just keep the MCP350 as a spare.




Those aquarium pumps run on AC right? I remember having a really good Fluval brand aquarium canister filter n that ran 24/7 for years with all the fish crap n algae n everything. What wud b a good pump to buy. I'm willing to spend up 300 on it.





I was running it 24/7. That's y I'm so lucky that I switched it off for 2 days coz I wasn't at home. I dread to think what wud haf happened if it was leaking while I wasn't home. It could haf shorted out everything n started a fire or sumthin.





What apple? I think they sold me the rotten seed oni. Hahaha. Sux man.

ianho : that fluval pump are good ones.. if im not mistaken made in italy.. another one is HAGEN, also made in italy.. i only got the small pump so cant be use since the flowrate are just too low...

fulamak very dahsyat one waterblock for nvidia 6XXX cards..made of silver n only 3 of it..call it octopus..

saw this in other forum..



http://www.devilmaster.org/modules.php?nam...order=0&thold=0

Phuiyoooh. Very nice work of art. But it's a very scary thought with all those joints thereby increasing the chances of leakage. I'm sooooo paranoid of leaks now I'm even thinking of going back to air cooling for good.

I can imagine the massive restrictions interms of flow rates that block is gonna cause in any loop and plus the fact WC'ing the RAM's aren't worth it in the 1st place since DDR3's are relatively cool running

ddr3 runs cool??? i dun thknk soo lor!! i touch my gc am b4 and very hot !! can burn my fingers!!

that is nice design, especialy the part RAM.

for normal use i think the DDR3 no need or no required for cooling, but in OC it should need it, otherwise blow it first.

if you scared of leaks..

invest in a high end air cooled heatsink

it will priced as much as lower end water cooling set

Perhaps the moral of the lesson here is ....

Set a conservative shutdown temp.

Totally agree with what sniper said. One mistake doesn't make one give up. One learns. I can bet that many of us WC users have learnt many mistakes which can be costly but we're still at it

Haha.. my casing oso last time banjir due to the leaks caused by improper sealing of the pump (nirox p2800 maa...). But watercooling really is a good hobby actually since it makes our brain thinks on how to improve the temp.. For me la.. hahahahha

The lowest shutdown temp I can set on the AV8 is 75C. I did set it at 75C but dunno y when I noticed the thing hang it was oredi showing 80C.

thermaltake product always stay at the point......the price is match with the procuct same with the water cooling kit....but as what i heard is......the good stuff only the high price stuff....like the water cooling kit.....over RM700 just a good water cooling kit...

what water cooling kit r u using??

wuts the temp before u install for idle and full load??
wuts the temp after u install it for idle and full load?

me2




see my sig

how do u know theres not much difference since u dunno ur temp b4 installation??

u can try to change the fan, use shorter loop....

Lookie what I found here. Can you guess what's that installed?